NEW (OLD STOCK) T/C .50 Cal MAXI-BALL MOLD

[rhouser]

I just got this in from ebay. I cleaned it with electrical contact cleaner and started casting bullets. I am having trouble figuring out the sprue plate on this one. The bullets drop out easy, but, the sprue needs to be poked out almost every time. I also can't get the sprue plate screw to stay in one position. I lubed the plate with some bull plate lube and tightened the screw and tried to lock it with the allen set. The screw still moves with the plate. Do I need to relieve the screw hole?

Maxi's are dropping at 354.7 to 355.6 grains.

Took 20 of the new Maxi's to the range with my TC Firestorm. I am a little worried about how loose they seem to be in the bore. I lube one with t/c bore butter and drop it into the muzzle. The maxi drops and sits at the start of the rifling in the "easy load" section of the barrel. It only takes a VERY little bit of pressure from my short starter to engage and drop the ball to the end of the short stroke. When I put the range rod onto the ball, there is no resistance to running the maxi down to the powder. It won't actually fall down the barrel, but, there is really not much resistance to moving the full stroke to the powder.

I will say that these seem accurate with my first attempts to shoot them.

I shot a 2.5" triangle shaped group at 25 yards with 60 gr of 2f and my 4f pan prime.

I upped the charge to 80 gr of 2f and got a three shot ragged hole about 1.5" at 50 yards off my rest with a rear bag. I have my 50 yard load for sure.

At 100 yards with 80 gr they opened way up (9"). I upped the charge to 90 gr but still shot high and low. I will have to work on a hundred yard load.

Any load experience would be appreciated.

[pietro]

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YMMV, but I've found my best accuracy using the K.I.S.S. principle, with FFFg (not FFg/2f) for both prime & main charges, making sure that the priming charge's top level is a touch below the vent hole (IOE, don't cover the vent with powder).

IME, most times accuracy can be much improved with faster/better ignition of the priming, as the shooter won't have as much chance for slight movement after pulling the trigger as with slower ignition.

I've found that optimum ignition is a result of using a good/fast lock that also sparks well (frizzen & flint type issues), not covering the vent with the prime, and following through after touching off the charge.

My flinter's ignition is as fast (if not faster) than a caplock/percussion - pulling the trigger & discharge occurs virtually instantaneously - and very close to the ignition time of a metallic cartridge. (I was actually shocked, the 1st time I shot a good flinter)


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[Fishman]

You could try a piece of soft lead shot in the set screw hole. That will increase the area of contact and should help function whIle preventing damage.

Others have suggested a wad under the maxi for accuracy and that is on my list to try.

[rhouser]

Pietro: like you I have used the 3f powder for priming. I sometimes wonder if it isn't faster than my 4f. It is much less violent (my observation). The 4f throws a real heat flash compared to the 3f. I don't have any flash to bang delays with my gun.

Fishman, great idea on the lead shot. I happen to have an open bag right here. I am getting one hole 3 shot groups with 80 grains at 50 yards with the true glow sights. My spread is at 100 yards with 80 gr plus it was about 8 inches low. 90 gr seemed to raise the poi, but, still is not grouping (only fired 3 shots). I may have had a bad cast on one or it may be that the 90 gr 2f is not enough powder. I will have to go back and do some more shooting.

Gun is a TC firestorm with 1:48 twist and 26" barrel. Anybody find a need to go higher than 90 gr of Goex to make the Maxi group at 100?

thanks in advance rch

[Drm50]

I have two T/C Hawkin rifles, a 45 & 50. The 50 was bought when they 1st came out in late 60s.
In those days everyone shot balls. My gun was extremely hard to load, had to use a thinner patch. I still broke several ram rods. My dad made me a brass ram rod, it helped but was still
hard loading. We debreeched it and slugged barrel, sent slug to t/c and they said it was under
spec and would send me a new barrel. Gun shot so well, I declined, and bought the 45. It loads
normally. Then T/C changed the twist to shot Maxi balls. My rifles are both early guns. The 45
wont shoot maxi worth a hoot. The 50 has more resistance to ramming the bullet than the newer
models, but shoots a maxi into 31/2" at 100yds. I don't hunt with maxi any way, all my ML
kills have been with ball. The only mods I have made were junking T/C sights and replacing
with Marbels front and back. I don't know if still available but they made a nice replacement
back sight that mounted in existing holes, front would take any standard rifle sight.

[bubba.50]

on the sprue stickin', is there any burrs on/in/around the sprue hole? if any doubt take a small piece of emery paper to the cone of the hole to remove any burrs. for the underside remove the plate & rub it back & forth on a good true whetrock or some such 'til good & smooth.

for the screw backin' out, I think you say it has the set screw on the side of the block where the screw goes? does it have the wavy washer that allows it to move freely while keepin' enough tension to keep the plate tight to the mould without the screw backin' out?

[rhouser]

Bubba.50, There is a screw, then a lock washer, then the sprue plate, then the mold block. The washer should control the sprue plate tension. I am going to drop a piece of lead shot between the set screw and the sprue mounting screw (fishman's suggestion) to improve the lock up.

I will go after the sprue hole and see if I can clean it up with some steel wool and or emory cloth. The mold is aluminum but the sprue plate is steel.

Thanks for the suggestion. rch