Other than Lee casting equipment....

[Jim-Bibs]

I am new to casting and want to purchase the proper equipment once. I have heard good things about Lee and bad things too so for my dollars I will just pass on Lee. I'm searching for moulds of quality for a 6 cavity. What are some molds to buy (brand names please) as well as ones to stay away from.

I will be using revolvers only to start for casting. 38, 44 and 45 colt(please suggest a bullet size and shape). All target practice NO HUNTING! NO GAS CHECKS!

I have heard of moulds that you can add a device to make a mould into a hollow point, if someone can share that info that would be great too.

[Boolit_Head]

Lee molds are probably the best bang for the buck but I've gotten bad ones. There are definitely better quality molds out there. Look in the group buy sections there a lots of quality molds there you can get in on. Several molds have pins that create hollow points or hollow bases.

[DerekP Houston]

If you stick to the 6-cavity versions, I had nothing but success with them. That being said I do favor NOE, Mihec/MP, or Accurate molds these days. Due to the amount of material they use vs the lees, a 4 cavity is about as heavy as I go.

For starting out with a 38, can't go wrong with a nice 148gr wadcutter or a 158 semi-wadcutter. 44 was a bit more difficult, I bought a mold that was slightly too large and is useless to me. I would slug the barrel on your 44 before ordering a mold. Don't have a 45 colt so I can't speak to that.

[OS OK]

Derek...Can't you use the Lee push through sizer with some Hornady 'one shot' to size the oversize down?
How much oversize?

[DerekP Houston]

Derek...Can't you use the Lee push through sizer with some Hornady 'one shot' to size the oversize down?
How much oversize?

When I tried, it leaves a ring of lead from the sizing on the base. I'll figure out a way to use the mold, or just buy a 44 mag lever gun with a more generous throat :D. As cast it comes out .434.

[Walter Laich]

I've had great luck with Lee 6-gang molds. They seem to have gotten better than a few years ago. they are light, don't rust and are cheaper than most others.

Brass molds are heavy and they wear me out quicker--I'm old.

Iron (steel or whatever they make them out of) are not as heavy but you do have to remember they will rust, given the opportunity.

I cast for .32, .38/.357, .40, .44 Sp/Mag, .45 ACP and .45 Colt, all with Lee molds. You can turn out an amazing amount of bullets in a short time.

I powder coat (PC) mine so no lube is needed and size with both a push through Lee sizer and Lyman 450.

With any mold there is a learning curve. Finding out what temp it likes, how long to preheat and it stays hot long after you think it's safe to pick it up with your bare hands :razz:

and remember the bullets don't have to be perfect to shoot. Most folks can't see wrinkles at 600 fps.

[country gent]

Lee equipment is economical but may require some fine tuning to get exactly what you want. I have used very few aluminum moulds. Lyman, RCBS, Nei, Hoch are dood and mostly steel or cast iron moulds. Heavier but also more durable over time. I also think the steel moulds are a little more forgiving as to technique and cadence. Noe, Accurate and the semi custom makers offer both aluminum and brass moulds. The aluminum these makers offer is a tougher grade than lees. Brass moulds are really thebest of both no rust issues and very good heat retention making them a little more forgiving as to technique and cadence also. Brooks, Kal, Old West offer steel or brass blocks and are true custom makers. The mould is made to your specs and cut to your order. Pouring bullets for 38-45 pistols (125 grn-300grn) with a multi cavity set of nlocks or 2 sets a good 20-25lb pot would be a big plus. CAsting with a 4 cavity 240 grn mould will empty a 10lb pot right quick. An ingot mould is handy for emptying the pot to change over to another alloy quickly. I used a plastic tipped cap hammer to open sprue plates and tap hinge pin with, but a old length of hammer handle dowel or wood works well. Stirrers, spoons and such can be purchased in the dollar store or grocery store. another nice touch is a medium to large brownie pan to set pot and hot tools in on to save protect bench top. A few dedicated towels to drop bullets on. A lead thermometer so you can know what temp and repeat it is handy also. All thats left now is the personal protective gear, heavy boots shoes to protect feet, long denium pants a long sleeved cotton or flannel shirt, saftey glasses and a billed hat. Also Heavy leather gloves.

[Jim-Bibs]

DerekP Houston what do you mean by "slug the barrel"? What is it and how is it done?

[runfiverun]

you take a slug of lead slightly over what you'd expect the barrel diameter to be and oil it and the barrel and push it down the barrel.
this gives you a measurement to work with.

if you working with revolvers this number and the cylinder throats gives you a working number for your diameter.
say a 45 colt has a 452 barrel and 452 throats then a 451 cast boolit will not work.
if you have a 452 barrel and a 450 tight spot under the frame almost nothing but jacketed will work
until you remove that constriction.
if your throats are 453 [like many of the large frame vaquero's] with a 452 barrel then a 453 diameter boolit is the best choice [454 will work but not quite as well]

now where do you get these slugs of lead?
one place is fishing sinkers the oval shaped ones with a hole in the middle work pretty well and respond to being gently squeezed in a vice to gain a little more diameter.
another way is to take a fired case from the gun and make a slug in it.

[VHoward]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuNoo4m6jso
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPHypjU5alQ
These 2 videos show preety much what slugging a barrel is. very easy to do. As for molds, you can't go wrong with NOE molds. I believe the most cavities you can get from him is 5 cavities, but that is enough. His molds are heavier and way better quality and he stands behind his product.

[Traffer]

I would suggest that if you have not used molding equipment before, that you do buy a lee mold or two to start out with. They are delicate and if you learn to work with them you won't have any trouble with other brands. Again I wouldn't call them poor quality by any means but aluminum is quite delicate and requires respectful attention. And if you ruin one it is not so costly. You can get a typical Lee two cavity mold for $25 to $30 on eBay. That is practically a disposable price.

[Don Fischer]

I am new to casting and want to purchase the proper equipment once. I have heard good things about Lee and bad things too so for my dollars I will just pass on Lee. I'm searching for moulds of quality for a 6 cavity. What are some molds to buy (brand names please) as well as ones to stay away from.

I will be using revolvers only to start for casting. 38, 44 and 45 colt(please suggest a bullet size and shape). All target practice NO HUNTING! NO GAS CHECKS!

I have heard of moulds that you can add a device to make a mould into a hollow point, if someone can share that info that would be great too.

So if you get a couple bad words about other dies you just gonna hang it up? I have Lee, RCBS, Lyman and a couple older ones that I don't know what they are. For the difference in cost between Lee and the rest, you can afford to try them yourself. Lee are all I would buy any more if for no other reason than I can afford them. Oh yea, Lee come's with mold handle's, those can get pretty expensive all by themselves. You've heard from a number of people on here that use Lee and like them.

[bangerjim]

DO NOT pass on Lee molds! I have every 2 and 6 banger they make. I also have many brass and ferrous molds from other makers. For getting started you cannot beat Lee for allowing you to own a lot and make several different weights and designs for your cals!!!!!!

Once you find a weight and design you reeeeeeeeeeeely like, get in brass and sell the Lee Al mold on here.

If you want HP, buy an HP mold. MIHec makes some of the best in brass. But why do you want HP? You really do NOT need HP's for just target practice. One of the best designs for target is a full wad cutter. Not HP. Everybody, for reasons that totally escape me, thinks HP's are 'COOOOL". No so much really for TP. The molds are rather expensive. I have several and get all kinds of OHHHS and AHHHS from "ill-informed" casual shooters at the ranges!

But..............SLUG B4 YOU BUY...........any molds at all!!

[Boyscout]

Buy some Lee's to get started. I own some RCBS and Lyman's too but the Lee's offer some really nice ones in .357, .429, and .452. I like the push through dies too even though I have an RCBS Lubri-sizer and an old Lyman 45. I did spend the big bucks on some RCBS molds but that is because Lee didn't make a good bullet for my 35 Remington.

[PS Paul]

Some good advice above....... I own about 45 molds. Iron, aluminum and a few brass for 45-70. I own a few 8-gang H&G (REALLY heavy!!) and several 4-cav Lyman molds, which I like a lot. There also are some custom iron molds for rifle and an Accurate aluminum in 452 which casts like a dream!
with all these outstanding molds in my arsenal, BY FAR my favorite and most-used are numbers of Lee 6-cavity molds in 45, 358, 32 revolver and 9mm. The most accurate boolit in my Blackhawk 45 Colt is a Ranch Dog 290 grain PB (he removed the gas check feature) that I bought from a member here.

Start with a 6-cav Lee, learn the craft, SHOOT 'EM and see how well they work. Try a Lyman or RCBS (I have many Lyman's and 4 or 5 RCBS) and I use them all, but the ones I still cast with most often are made by Lee.

hope this helps?

[C. Latch]

I own a number of fairly expensive semi-custom molds and think Lee is the best thing since sliced bread.

Don't skip over them. The six-cavity molds are great buys.

[tward]

Jim-Bibs, I have a number of molds from various makers, MiHec molds are works of art and cast extremely well, he uses the Cramer H-P system which is great to use. The 4 cavity brass molds are very heavy. Old Lyman's or Ideals are very easy to use. That being said the majority of the Boolits that I cast and shoot are Lees, they are lightweight, durable if not abused and drop darn nice Boolits. I recently bought my first Lee 6 cavity the 105 gr SWC and was amazed at how it rains Boolits, had about 500 keepers in 3 hours. I'm also addicted to the Round nose flat point Lee designs in .358125, 429200, 452200 and 452255. I would suggest buying from Titan Reloading, they are sponsors here and have great prices and service. Good luck and happy casting. Tim

[dot6]

I've bought five or six of the Lee six-pack moulds (most of which were from group buys), and, so far at least, all have been very good with only one that needed an alignment pin staked in a bit more securely, which was an easy fix. I also have four NOE gang moulds (with a fifth on the way), and an old Ideal four cavity, all of which work flawlessly. The Lee moulds really are a good buy for the money, though, as others have said.

[JSnover]

Don't get too hung up on your starter kit, you'll end up with a LOT more stuff in a pretty short time. I started with Lee, added Hornady, RCBS, Redding, Lyman...

[dragon813gt]

I started w/ Lee molds. But I got tired of their lack of quality control and having to modify them. I doubt I would be casting if I didn't start w/ them. They are a low cost investment to get started. If you decide to stick w/ if you can decide if you want to buy custom molds. I was happy when I sold off the last of my Lee molds.

[HangFireW8]

Jim-Bibs,

Thank you for defining your needs clearly. You've chosen some excellent, cast-friendly cartridges to start with.

It's OK with me if you don't choose Lee, as there are many other fine brands to choose from. I have had mixed luck with Lee, and don't blame anyone who decides to opt-out, as almost everything they make has alternatives. This thread should focus on your needs, not brand bashing/defense.

I would suggest you loosen up a little on another requirement. A good 4 cavity mold will rain bullets, and is less tiring than a 6-cavity. For the same reason, avoid hollow base and hollow point molds for now, as they are much more finicky and tend to limit production.

For target practice, I would suggest Wadcutter and Semi-Wadcutter nose profiles. Since you're looking at high production molds, I take it you will be shooting a lot, so I suggest starting with lighter bullets, both for economy, longer casting sessions (don't have to wait for the pot to re-heat as often), and higher production.

[Echo]

When I tried, it leaves a ring of lead from the sizing on the base. I'll figure out a way to use the mold, or just buy a 44 mag lever gun with a more generous throat :D. As cast it comes out .434.
Derek, have you tried pushing them through the sizer base-first? I do it that way on my Star, when sizing leaves 'tails' on my boolits.
Milby '53

[Smk SHoe]

I've used a lot of lee molds over the years. Gotten rid of most of the two holer's and upgraded to the 6 holer's. Lots of good quality bullets with Lee. But I do have a few 2 hole RCBS and just received my first 5 holes from NOE. Outstanding Mold. Beautifully made. Easily a better mold than lee, but the lee 9mm, 358, 40, and 45 6 gang molds do cast good bullets. Get what you can afford to start and see where your skills take you.