New to casting.....purchase molds and?

[Jim-Bibs]

What are some brands of molds I should purchase for calibers 38 special-158 grain, 44 mag/special 240 grain and 45 colt (not sure what grain, but will take suggestions for target shooting)? As well as what type of melter I should get.

[DerekP Houston]

oh man that is a big can of worms. More importantly what is your budget and what caliber are you casting for? I'd recommend the RCBS pro-melt, but the lee 4-20 is the standard cheap starting pot.

[dverna]

Ignore cost. You will regret it. Just buy good stuff.

For molds Mihec, NOE, and Accurate are top names for new. For used, Hensley & Gibbs and the older Saeco's.

For pistol, a minimum of 4 cavities if you shoot a lot.

Melters, go with 20 lb pots. You cannot go wrong with the RCBS ProMelt

[Czech_too]

+1 "oh man that is a big can of worms. More importantly what is your budget and what caliber are you casting for?"

I totally agree with the above. I would suggest starting out small, as in the Lee 4# pot and ladle cast as a starting point. See if this is really an aspect of the sport that you want to get into, and continue with, before dropping a good chunk of change into it. If you decide to stay with it, the 4# can always be used for melting pewter cups and such or trying a different alloy.

[country gent]

Again what calibers are you loading for? This can be a big factor in what makers moulds to buy. Also are you casting for rifle, pistol, BPCR, specialty pistols, or military rifles. For production moulds Lee, Lyman, RCBS, or some others. Good moulds ussually in stock and availanle for delivery. Semi custom Accurate, and Noe are good moulds with a nice selection of styles. May be a wait time on delivery of a short time. Brooks, Old West, and the true one off custom makers. Plan on 4-6 week wait for delivery higher costs, nut you can get exactly what you want in the alloy you want. As to melting alot depends on if you want to ladle pour or bottom pour, Lees pots are decent Lyman and RCBS are very good. Magma has a very nice bottom pour also. What capacity do you want for the melter. Theres alot of 55 grn 22s in a 10 lb pot not alot of 550 grn 45s. A simple set up is a pot on a camp stove or propane burner with a ladle to pour. This is a simple set up can be used almost any where. The electric pots are not quite as versatile. A simple roller cabnient with the burner and pot can be wheeled out onto drive way to cast and stored away easily when done and cooled down. More information would really help here. Also what space do you have to use this in?

[big bore 99]

For years now, I've been using the Lee bottom pour and many Lee molds. I have and use the Lee 45 cal. 255 gr good results in my Winchester levergun.

[Petrol & Powder]

These threads quickly devolve into, "I use blah, blah, blah....."

But you can use some info to make an informed decision.

Aluminum molds are lighter, heat up quicker, don't rust and are often less expensive. They can be very good molds. There are some very good high end aluminum molds and some very serviceable inexpensive aluminum molds.

Iron molds are very durable, hold heat well and are reasonably priced. You do have to guard against rust but that's a price I'm willing to pay.


Brass molds do not rust, are a bit heavy and are generally costly but may be the middle ground between iron and aluminum.

As for brands, you're going to get a lot of advice. Good Luck with that!


A pot for casting is going to be about the same as molds- there are differences in cost and quality but in the end you have to decide where to compromise. If you're using a ladle, you can go pretty cheap and still have something useful.
A bottom pour pot is nice and the classic Lee 4-20 (AKA "Drip-O-Matic) will certainly work. A RCBS Pro Melt is on my list of wants but my Lee is still working just fine. To put that in perspective I started melting lead over a campfire and moved to a camp stove; so the electric Lee pot is a real step up for me.


There's a lot of experience on this forum, take advantage of it.

Good Luck

[Jim-Bibs]

I will be casting .44 special/mag, 45 colt and 38 special. All for revolver target shooting.

[catskinner]

I started cheap with a Lee mold and a Lyman pot and dipper on a Coleman camp stove. Still use that equipment at times. Since then have upgraded to a bottom pour pot. I agree that a 20 lb. pot is the way to go if you get a bottom pour. I just got a Lyman digital and like it. Molds- I have all the major brands and they all will work. I actually prefer an iron mold but have several Old West brass molds which I like. Custom molds I really love my Brooks.

[Petrol & Powder]

I will be casting .44 special/mag, 45 colt and 38 special. All for revolver target shooting.

OK - There's some info to work with !!

I followed the advice of other members of this forum and for the 44 Special/44 mag I went with the RCBS .44-250-K mold (the current RCBS 250 grain "Keith" SWC design). That has proven to be an outstanding bullet for that caliber. It is an excellent "do it all" bullet.

Back when I was shooting the 45 Colt I was not casting but I did buy a lot of commercially cast bullets. I don't recall any bad performers but I will say most of them were around the 255-260 grain weight.

I've shot more 38 Special than just about any cartridge and the hands down winner for that cartridge is the RCBS 38-150-SWC (also pretty close to the Keith design). I've handloaded more 155-160 grain 38 Special bullets than I can remember and most of them do exactly what you expect them to do. If you want 1 mold for 38 Special, I don't think you could go wrong with the RCBS SWC or the Lyman 358477 which is a near clone as far as I can tell.

There are a lot of options out there but for a revolver I would stay with a SWC, around the standard weight for caliber and avoid gas checks.

GOOD LUCK !!

[runfiverun]

for them the choice to me is simple.
round nose flat point boolits.
158/240/255grs
one single lube groove, a crimp groove and a flat point.
they'll cover anything that needs done.
lee makes a good example of them [have to double check the 44]

they also make a useable casting pot.
shoot for a 1% tin 3% antimony alloy, clean it up and make some boolits.

[Petrol & Powder]

for them the choice to me is simple.
round nose flat point boolits.
158/240/255grs
one single lube groove, a crimp groove and a flat point.
they'll cover anything that needs done.
lee makes a good example of them [have to double check the 44]

they also make a useable casting pot.
shoot for a 1% tin 3% antimony alloy, clean it up and make some boolits.

/\ What he said /\ :bigsmyl2:

(which was a lot more concise than what I said)

[runfiverun]

don't get me wrong I have the swc and wad cutter styles too.
but if I have to buy a first mold for something and stick with it it's for sure the rnfp style.
the calibers listed lend themselves to lever guns and just about anybody casting boolits and owns a revolver is gonna get a lever gun at some point.
they plain out work from target speeds to daaaang in velocity and are like pushing the easy button on the reloading bench..

[John Boy]

What are some brands of molds I should purchase for calibers 38 special-158 grain, 44 mag/special 240 grain and 45 colt (not sure what grain, but will take suggestions for target shooting)?
Jim, your best reference is to identify the bullet with the description of it's use. So, start reading...
http://www.castpics.net/subsite/HistMolds/1929_Ideal_Catalog.pdf
Then match the bullet to a current mold vendor's catalog or buy the Ideal mold off eBay

[MT Chambers]

I'd suggest the KEITH molds from Lyman or RCBS for all 3 cals.....a good melter like the RCBS, a lubesizer like the RCBS or STAR if you can swing it....an inexpensive hotplate is important to warm your molds, there are many small things you will need as well such as ladle, flux, good gloves, etc.

[Echo]

Most of my molds came through eBay, but I also have some MP, Accurate, and NOE molds, and they are great. I second the notion of buying RCBS molds - my experience with them has been totally positive. But I have had good luck with Lee molds, especially their 6-bangers. And If I see an Ideal mold on eBay I think I might want, I'll bid on it.
Re a melter/furnace/whatever - I mainly use a SAECO 10-pounder, and keep my production up by placing an ingot on the rim to warm, dumping it in the pot when necessary, replacing with another ingot - and repeat. I have used a Lee 10-lber, and had no issues. Lyman also makes a 10-lber. And I have a little Potter 3/lber that I call my Cute Little Thang for short runs. I run it through a light-dimmer, as it has no control of it's own, and works like a champ! If I want to cast 40-50 boolits of a certain alloy to see if they work, I'll use the CLT. If you find one, grab it!
Re sizing/loobing - I use a STAR for my pistol boolits, a Lachmiller (predecessor of the LAM) for rifle & GC boolits, and tumble-loobing for other pistol boolits.

This has been more of a How I Do It than a set of recommendations. There are MANY permutations & combinations to that answer. But my general recommendation is to start slow, buy Lee molds and 10-lber, use whatever size/loob method you wish, and press on. that way, if you find you really don't care for casting, you aren't out much, and can recover some of you expense by selling on eBay or here on the forum. If casting agrees with you, then you can graduate up to more expensive equipment.

[popper]

I like the TC or RNFP as you typically don't need a special seater die nose punch. I do remember trying to get straight loaded boolits in 9mm with the RCBS seater.

[bilco]

If you try it and end up liking it you can't beat MiHec or NOE. Both wonderful mould companies that throw great bullets. I got tired of having to troubleshoot the Lee aluminum molds.

[gwpercle]

When I started reloading for 9 mm , I started with a 2 cavity Lee 358-105- SWC ( because I had one for 38 special) , it was ok but not perfect , next Lee 2 cavity 356-125-2R (shooting buddy paid for this one) He likes RN's...I don't. Next was a 2 cavity Lee 356-120-TC , BINGO...we found a winner , feeds reliably and cuts clean target holes.
Found I needed more production...liked the TC and 120 grain weight , so I then ordered a 4 cavity alumn. NOE 358-124 TC GC , a truncated cone with a gas check ! Lee's mould doesn't have a gas check.
Now the Lee's were only $20.00 , but they saved me from ordering a $100.00 mould and then finding out I don't like the boolit. And I still have the Lee moulds to use or lend to someone just starting out.
Experiment with Lee moulds , find out what you like then buy the high end mould.
The NOE's are very nice and I've already bought another....and wish I had a few more. Very addictive and habit forming !
Gary

[Wayne Smith]

Jim, mold design and mold choice is probably as personal as the choice of reloading equipment used. It is also an individual education to pursue as you make these choices. Read what the experienced guys here say but educate yourself and make your own choices for your own reasons.

[farmersamm]

If you want to throw little bits of metal downrange, start cheap (and I'd wager you'll probably stay cheap)

For about $200 (What does a box of 44 ammo cost??) you can do a complete setup.

Lee 4-20...about $80 (Ladle pouring will quickly drive you nuts)
3 Lee molds...about $75 (don't need a sizer because the bullets will drop to correct size out of these molds)
Lube cutter...about $40 for all calibers you listed (Yeah, pan lubing)(very nice ones available on Ebay)
Lube.......This can vary, depends on where you get your lube. Aftermarket, or name brand. Aftermarket is cheap, but not to my liking...but others swear by it. Aftermarket bulk 50/50 can be as little as about $12/lb

44 Mag........214gr SWC ($.03), H-110 ($.10), Large mag primer ($.03-.04) = about $.17/round

Brass is high for the 44, but depends on how many times you reload it. You can push it till the neck splits. Stay away from Winchester brass.

38spl brass can almost last a lifetime if you buy 500ish, or more, once fired cases. Cuts the load cycles, will last forever. Same with 9mm. Load 'em till they split.

Lemme put it this way. I can weld up some steel with a Lincoln Crackerbox, or a Lincoln Vantage. Both welds are serviceable, and as good as my skill level will permit. The machine makes no difference, but the price tag does;) (To be real, and I like real.......the little welder has limits, it's good for up to 1/8 rod. But 1/8 will do most fabrication I encounter. For bigger rods/thicker steel I use the Ranger 250 GXT). What I'm saying is..you don't need the most expensive stuff out there to accomplish the relatively simple task of casting bullets, it's not rocket science.

Only accessory I'd add to the pile would be the Lee Hardness Tester. (about $50). It's a good thing to have when buying lead of unknown hardness. Despite all the experts out there, you'll probably find that 12ish BHN is good for all handgun ammo.

Because you'll shoot more when the ammo is more affordable, you'll be buying more lead. Lead can add up when shooting the 44. At about 25-30 rounds/lb , the lead starts flying out the door fast. Save your money for lead.

IMHO