1858 Cylinder loading stand?

[hunter64]

Finally had some time to go out to the range yesterday, nice and warm, no wind and no one else there. I shot the 1858 Remington for a couple of hours and had a great time. By the end the palm of my hand was red from loading the cylinder with the loading lever. I think I will buy one of those cylinder loading stands and save my hand. I have looked on a few websites and they range from 20 to 50 dollars. Is there a brand/style that I should avoid and where did you buy yours at?

[Maven]

hunter64, Two questions for you: (1) Are you using the correct ball diameter? Mine requires .451" and loads with moderate pressure, but not enough to redden my hand. (2) Is it possible that the cylinder's chambers are undersized? (Have you measured them?) The reason I ask is that my NM Army was as difficult to load as yours was until I measured the cylinder and found that it was grossly undersized. I don't remember who made my revolver, but I called Euroarms (?) in Winchester, VA to order a replacement*, which I did, and which works perfectly.


*The manufacturer's symbol is on the bottom flat of the bbl., visible after you remove the reloading lever. The parts provider will be able to tell you who actually produced it once they know the symbol so you can order the correct replacement cylinder if that becomes necessary.

[hunter64]

I just read the post a couple above about slugging the barrel and comparring it to the cylinders. I have done that on all my revolvers and never even dawned on me to try it with BP revolver. I probably have a couple of cylinders that are smaller, I will check it out later today.

[hunter64]

I measured the barrel and it looks like .448 and my cylinders are all .448, they must have had a good day at the Italian factory when mine was done. I measured my Lee .451 lead balls that I cast a month ago and the 10 that I randomly sampled were all either .453 or .454. So I wonder if they just labeled the mold wrong because it clearly says .451 on the side. I am using straight stick on wheel weights that I have tested with my hardness tester and it comes out at 5.5-6.0 bhn. After I pour I just let air cool. So no wonder I am having problems with the handle trying to put in a .454 ball into a .448 chamber. I think I will still get a loading block just for the ease of loading.

[boommer]

loading block is the only way to fly! they are slick and alot faster to load with if you look around you can find them 20-25.00 bucks. I cast the lee mould 450 dia, 200 gr conical bullet it is beveled base and loads up nice.I have a 58 steel frame and 200 gr bullet and 30grs 3ff she snorts when you drop the hammer!But for the conicals you will need a loading block because they are to long for the loading gate I have found for my 58. The other thing is too is with .453-454 is going to be tough even with the block

[hunter64]

Boommer: I have always wondered about those conicals from lee, how do they shoot as far as accuracy goes? I definitely need to buy a smaller mold and a .451 should do it nicely.

[boommer]

hunter 64 for me in my 58 I cant see any difference in accuracy. I like them because you can size them and lube the conicals so load alot easier. My mold throws them at front band .451 and base .445 I run them through the sizer just to lube them and goo them up so you dont need to use a wad or grease the tops.

[hunter64]

Do you size them to .451 and what do you use for lube? Probably some beeswax/Crisco with mixture leaning more to the beeswax side a bit to hold in the lube grooves I would suspect. I am having a heck of a time trying to find a loading stand, they are all sold out at this time of the year. I live in Canada and a lot of companies will not ship up here so it is a real headache to get one right now.

[Kraschenbirn]

Ever thought about making one? Years ago, when I was involved with CW reenactments, I built several of these and they're fairly simple: just a 6"x12" base plate, a 12" vertical column (I used 1 1/4" closet rod), and a strap to hold the gun in place while you're loading. Can't post a picture 'cause I gave mine away when I dropped out of CW reenactment but if you're interested, e-mail me and I'll run up a sketch, scan it, and send it back as an attachment.

Bill

[hunter64]

Kraschenbirn: Your thinking of a vertical loading stand, I am talking about a cylinder loading stand that you take your cylinder out of the 1858 and you load it seperatly and then put it back in the revolver.

[shotguneddy]

I've recently finished a prototype loading block. When it hit's the market, I think you'll be pleased. I've spent a good part of the weekend writing up the patent.

[shotguneddy]

Maybe there isn't as much call for a loading block as I thought. I've contacted some folks who agreed to do a product review for me. I'd hate to put out a bunch of money and not see a return for my efforts. So far it's only cost me the fee for the provisional patent plus the cost of producing a prototype, which I'll use forevermore!

[AzShooter]

If you are looking for the cylinder loader you can't beat the price at Midwest Shooter's Supply. Only $11 or $12. I have to order one myself but no hurry because I don't shoot my 1858 that much.

[shotguneddy]

I went to the midwestern website and couldn't find the item you were referring to.

[shotguneddy]

Here's a video of my loading tool on Youtube. The current version is for the Ruger Old Army, revisions for other makes are coming soon!

http://youtube.com/watch?v=iem7LaCAhUs