Help with Lyman Mould Master XX

[ticket machine]

Got a Lyman Mould Master XX included in a larger deal. Decided to try it but ran into a snag. The handle is on the left side. I'm right handed and every other pot I have seen, inlcluding Lymans were on the right side. Can't figure out how to change it, if possible. Second issue is the handle will easily drop down opening up the flow whether I want to or not. It seems like the weight of the handle just pulls it open. Third issue is the electrical connections. There is an insulating plate where the plug goes that looks like it is made out of Mica, about 3" long, 1"wide and about .10" thick. Electrical connectors are fastened to this and one end is broken off. Would be nice to find a manual that may answer some issues I have but can't find one.

[jsizemore]

The handle lever should slip through the lead stop pin from right to left. The hole at the end of the lever should be positioned in the pivot, on the left, so the screw will fit through it. The pour lever handle should now be on the right. If you still have the leaf spring, it fits between the bottom of the lever and the slot in the lead stop pin. Mica sheet is available online.

[georgerkahn]

Agree 100% with Poster #2! Added notes -- I have/use two Mould Masters -- which, on BOTH -- the mica was broken and I simply salvaged wires from an old G.E. coffeemaker to add on to wires before I put on my own plug. I had broken thermostat on one, so my hook-up was ahead of thermostat, and I had put a 12-gauge small extension cord from my PID to be able to plug either of the two Lyman pots into it. Good luck!
2nd added note is I do my smelting in a propane-fired cut Freon tank (from DavyCrockett on this site), and use lots and lots of pine sawdust plus Gouda-cheese coating wax to flux. However, it seems my Lymans are prone to -- so it seems -- build up crud on their walls. Hence, I ground/filed a serving spoon to match the contour (inner diameter of pot) and it is incredible (to me) how much crud appears! So -- to me -- regular scraping and lots of further fluxing in the pot (I use same as outdoors, with a bit of Marvelux added if necessary) -- really is needed to produce great boolits, and keep the pot from leaking.
Lastly, one of mine has the Lyman mould-holder attachment to rest/slide mould on, which works OK. From a friend made on this site (Thanks, Dave!) I learned he has a small stack of scrap wood pieces in different thicknesses which fit under pot, and he simply puts wood pieces down to hold and enable sliding in/out at perfect, repeatable height! What a muscle-saver -- 'specially with the 4-cavity brass moulds which do seem to get a tad heavier after each cast...
BEST!
geo

[ticket machine]

Well shucks, that was easy. I was over-thinking it and never thought that just the handle could be switched. I don't know why someone put it on the left side, the weight of the handle and knob kept pulling it open. Works correctly now. Thanks for the info. Now, I just need to replace my mica sheet.

[wv109323]

The mica sheet, thermostat, and wire terminals were a constant maintenance problem on my Lyman XX. When the thermostat needed to be replaced, I went with a PID controller. The PID along with a hot plate to preheat my molds made a huge improvement in the quality of my cast boolits.
I came directly off the heating element with wire terminals to a male plug. I also used a frame ground. The PID has a female plug so I can disconnect the two and use the control for something else if I desire to. The PID makes a huge improvement in temp. Control over the factory bi-metal thermostat.