PDA

View Full Version : Yellowstone trip



pmer
06-09-2016, 07:40 PM
Well last year we took the family to the Black Hills this year were heading to Yellowstone. Is any one going or been there recently? We're staying just west of the park in Montana. Never been out there before, any tips or ideas we should know about or great places to try and get to?

Too bad Yellowstone has been in the news lately though with that bison calf in that park goers vehicle and now just lately a young man left the trail or dock and went walking in bad area and fell into a hot acidic pool. They had a good ruff location but stopped looking for him because it was too risky to get out there. Is the place really teaming with bears on every trail and bison itching themselves on cars? LOL

Should be a good time though, looking forward to the trip.

onceabull
06-09-2016, 08:12 PM
I expect a complete count would have me inside the park for 12 hours or more at least 15-20 times, going back a LONG time.. under current conditions ,I've only missed two years in the past twenty where I didn't spent at least a half day inside..Sounds like you will be staying in W.Yellowstone, which is as good as any single location,and better than some...Coming from the east side you have some alternative approachs,so probably would do well to consider one entrance coming and an alternate going...My personal choice given that would be going west through Cody,Wy.and the East entrance to the park proper, then going home through cooke City, and down the Beartooth H'wy
to Red Lodge, Mt.. Plan a LONG daytrip loop from
Madison Junction No.to Mammoth, then south to Canyon ,then follow the Yellowstone R. So.to the lake,then back west by Old Faithful,the Firehole River,and home to W.Yellowstone... If Guided fishing is within the budget, Blue Ribbon Outfitters in West Y.is favored by my "white shoe"friends,but a lot of their trips are not within the Park.and you should try for reserv.if you are serious about going.. (There are a # of other prominent fly shops with vocal fans,so above is just "mpo". if you need more info.just use PM...Onceabull

Wayne Smith
06-09-2016, 08:58 PM
Be prepared to do a lot of driving. Years ago we went, flew into an airport east of the park, rented a van, didn't leave the park except to go down Jackson Hole, drove back to the airport, and put over 1,000 miles on the van. The park is bigger than Rhode Island, yes, bigger than a state. LOML is a geologist, she bought a book on the geology of the Yellowstone, all the teenagers of three families wanted to be in our van because she was reading the book out loud. Driving around the basin you are driving in the caldera of a super volcano that is questionably overdue to explode.

pmer
06-09-2016, 09:17 PM
I'm going to have to check that route when I get home tonight it sounds like nice drive. The super volcano thought is interesting for sure. Thanks you guys. I'm not sure about fishing but hate to rule out too.

runfiverun
06-09-2016, 09:39 PM
west yellowstone is just barely inside Montana.
your on the side to see plenty of Buffalo but not too many bears usually.

the last time we went we went in through Jackson hole [short 1.5 hr trip] and up and out to Cody.
and then went to the museum in the afternoon after shooting into the park early in the morning.

we went from there up to Baker [Lamar valley] and done the same early morning thing and bailed after lunch in the park.
about 10.am or so the tourist busses start rolling in and you can't drive anywhere or get near any attractions.
it's best to be on your way out shortly afterwards.

anyway there is a 3-D movie theater there in W-Ystone the kids will love.
and Bear world usually has something going on.
it's a little bit of a drive west over into Idaho to Henry's lake and a left turn.
the drive looks just like the park so nobody will notice the difference until you drop out of the Mtn's and onto the flats near St. Anthony.
once you get there you'll get to see the bears, wolves, and elk you didn't see in the park.

trebor44
06-10-2016, 06:51 AM
west yellowstone is just barely inside Montana.
your on the side to see plenty of Buffalo but not too many bears usually.

the last time we went we went in through Jackson hole [short 1.5 hr trip] and up and out to Cody.
and then went to the museum in the afternoon after shooting into the park early in the morning.

we went from there up to Baker [Lamar valley] and done the same early morning thing and bailed after lunch in the park.
about 10.am or so the tourist busses start rolling in and you can't drive anywhere or get near any attractions.
it's best to be on your way out shortly afterwards.

anyway there is a 3-D movie theater there in W-Ystone the kids will love.
and Bear world usually has something going on.
it's a little bit of a drive west over into Idaho to Henry's lake and a left turn.
the drive looks just like the park so nobody will notice the difference until you drop out of the Mtn's and onto the flats near St. Anthony.
once you get there you'll get to see the bears, wolves, and elk you didn't see in the park.

As a former worker bee in the park and long time resident of the Greater Yellowstone Area I find the current experience of Yellowstone very disappointing. Thanks to the wolves and G. Bears most of the elk are gone, you might see a moose in the Lamar Valley up by Soda Butte Creek, but what you will see is loooong lines of vehicles and tourists at all of the attractions. It is definitely not a wilderness experience more like Disney World. With luck you might get to see a bear jam on the Mamouth side of Dunraven. The fires of the late 80's did help to 'open' up the views a bit. The areas around Jellystone are far more interesting than the park. Also take some of the side trips in the park; Blacktail Plateau, old stagecoach road from Mamouth to Gardiner. In the West Yellowstone area, visit Quake Lake, Henry's Lake, Mesa Falls. The Buffalo Bill Museum in Cody is well worth the visit and of course the tour of the Beartooth Highway is worthwhile. And yeah, driving is the name of the game!

square butte
06-10-2016, 07:26 AM
Not to far inside the Gardner entrance is a place you can walk down to about a mile or so to the Fire Hole River and get in to soak in the hot springs that come into the side of the river. Folks have made pools there by stacking rocks to contain the hot water. One of our favorite places in the park

pmer
06-10-2016, 08:16 AM
Henry's lake Idaho and the Fox Hole River and Old Stage Coach rd. in the park. Yes we'll be in West Yellowstone for the stay.

Piedmont
06-10-2016, 09:36 AM
I was up in that neck of the woods perhaps eight years ago and was much more impressed with Glacier National Park in northwest Montana than with Yellowstone.

pergoman
06-10-2016, 09:53 AM
Plan to spend a whole day at the Buffalo Bill Museum in Cody.

.455 Webley
06-10-2016, 10:39 AM
The ticket for the museums in Cody is good for 2 days and when i go back i plan to spend two full days at the 5 museums that they have. East of Cody you will run into the Heart Mt. Relocation Camp it was mostly empty when i visited and well worth taking a look at. I had arguments with a lot of the exhibits but still think its a worthwhile stop. If your staying in West Yellowstone stop by the Taco Bus great food OK prices and a lot of fun. They make a spicy carrot side dish that is more memorable than Old Faithful. Enjoy!

jmorris
06-10-2016, 10:52 AM
We went to Jackson hole a few years ago and drove into Yellowstone for a few days. Yes, bison caused a "traffic jam" waiting for them to cross the road and bears are not spooked either by the sight of humans/cars.

Don't be an idiot and you'll be fine. Do what the signs tell you to, remember the animals are still "wild" and hot things can kill you.

white eagle
06-10-2016, 10:57 AM
Quake Lake blast from the past
hunted in Montana near there a few occasions
great area

waksupi
06-10-2016, 11:42 AM
I would suggest a side trip to Virginia City and Nevada City in Montana. Maybe add in the Big Hole Battlefield.

OS OK
06-10-2016, 12:03 PM
A question for all you locals up around Yellowstone…"Is there anything to all the You Tube warnings of impending disaster there? Each time I go there searching anything Yellowstone, I'm overpowered with all these warnings!"

For instance…not just this link, but 100's of others with same...

ALARM: YELLOWSTONE "TRUTH" ERUPTION 2016. NEW VID of "TRUE CONDITION" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uz-a44RhNx0)

leadman
06-10-2016, 12:59 PM
I watched a documentary on Yellowstone concerning the volcano several years ago. The thought seemed to be if it blew that where we live in Phoenix Az might be far enough away to survive it.
Did visit it about 12 years ago and it is worthwhile to do so. We also went to the Firearms museum in Cody but only spent one day. Would like to go back again.
Did see a lady taking a buffalo's picture by some restrooms and got way too close and it chased it part way around the john. She was lucky and was not injured. Just not too smart.

OS OK
06-10-2016, 01:09 PM
I watched a documentary on Yellowstone concerning the volcano several years ago. The thought seemed to be if it blew that where we live in Phoenix Az might be far enough away to survive it.
Did visit it about 12 years ago and it is worthwhile to do so. We also went to the Firearms museum in Cody but only spent one day. Would like to go back again.
Did see a lady taking a buffalo's picture by some restrooms and got way too close and it chased it part way around the john. She was lucky and was not injured. Just not too smart.

This is all recent within the past year…propaganda…disinformation.?.I don't know what to make of it…the locals are the ones to answer this…I think?

JonB_in_Glencoe
06-10-2016, 02:12 PM
In 1991, I was on a bike trip with a few friends (Minnesota to Spokane and then back), we drove into Yellowstone to see ole' faithful, and I couldn't get out of there quick enough...what a crowd. We boondocked a few nights in the Big Horns, near Black MT lookout just up from Dayton....no one around for miles, Loved it. We spent one night in Glacier at a campground...also loved it.

I guess it's all what you are looking for or what you prefer? I'll never go back to that over crowded mess again...same with Mt Rushmore.

Beerd
06-10-2016, 07:16 PM
pmer,
what are you driving? the beartooth highway can be a white knuckler for a flatlander with a big motorhome.
you might think about stopping at the Little Bighorn Battlefield coming or going.
..


I didn't get the memo about the upcoming big eruption. must be my tin foil hat is doing its job.
..

pmer
06-10-2016, 07:30 PM
We went to Jackson hole a few years ago and drove into Yellowstone for a few days. Yes, bison caused a "traffic jam" waiting for them to cross the road and bears are not spooked either by the sight of humans/cars.

Don't be an idiot and you'll be fine. Do what the signs tell you to, remember the animals are still "wild" and hot things can kill you.

That's easier said than done LOL. Last summer I was that guy walking around with ear plugs out prairie dogging and didn't hear the rattling till I was way too close!
We have five days out there to see the sites and we're using a mini van.

Beerd
06-10-2016, 08:17 PM
plan to spend a long day at the Buffalo Bill Museum. Head north out of Cody about 40 miles and turn left on the Chief Joseph Highway. Enter the Park via Cooke City.
..

onceabull
06-10-2016, 08:55 PM
Those wanting to escape the crowd in Y'Stone could consider taking the road west from Flagg Ranch,Wy.toward Idaho,then accessing the park on the Bechler River..Follow the River upstream as long as your nerve holds out--(assuming you are unarmed,as "required"...) Onceabull

alamogunr
06-10-2016, 09:16 PM
Been there, done that, glad I did. Won't be going back. Would like to go to Glacier though.

pmer
06-10-2016, 10:04 PM
Mrs. pmer caught wind of the impending volcanic activity and said "we should settle our affairs" :-)

This video isn't too bad, it covers some history about other volcanos and goes into some prehistoric information about the Yellowstone caldera. There are old calderas going west and south from there going back 16 million years. It's the most studied volcanic area in the world.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsbQ4dJ9R9s

OS OK
06-10-2016, 10:41 PM
There are other sites claiming that the ground is physically rising and measurably so, asphalt roads getting mushy, that herds are moving out of the area and so on...thats why I thought that the locals would have a better idea...so far they seem disinterested. Some cornball started in about a tin-foil hat...just can't get a serious answer.

waksupi
06-10-2016, 11:47 PM
There are other sites claiming that the ground is physically rising and measurably so, asphalt roads getting mushy, that herds are moving out of the area and so on...thats why I thought that the locals would have a better idea...so far they seem disinterested. Some cornball started in about a tin-foil hat...just can't get a serious answer.

It is definitely past time for it to blow, but it could be another couple hundred years, or it could be tomorrow. The bottom of Yellowstone Lake has raised up, and I think it has affected some of the fish. Other areas, the ground temperature is raising, and has changed the patterns of some animals.
Considering the projected blast area and ash fall out, it doesn't matter where you are. I figure I would have to get at least as far north as Edmonton, Alberta to be completely out of the projected blast. I can't work up a real good worry about it.

OS OK
06-10-2016, 11:52 PM
That's the reply I was looking for...what's going on from ground zero so to speak and your resolve regarding that information.
Sorta like the wife and I feel about nuclear war...if it happens we hope the first missile hits us square on the head...life afterwards, ain't life anymore.

TXGunNut
06-11-2016, 12:22 AM
I'll be spending a few days in Cody next month, at least one day in the museum. If you only plan one day you'll be planning a return trip before you get home. I was there last fall, first trip about eight years ago. Little Big Horn Battlefield is just across the Bighorn Basin but I can't recommend climbing out of that basin with an RV. View is awesome from a car. Read up about the battle before you go. Don't be surprised if you feel the presence of long-dead warriors. The Crows in the area are tolerant but not very friendly.
I went to Yellowstone as a kid, can't recall leaving anything there. The geysers are indeed awesome but I don't need to go back.

deep creek
06-11-2016, 12:37 AM
just go ,have fun don't pet the animals.expect looonng lines and stupid people.had a japanese family try to pet a bull elk in rut with cows and two lesser bulls trying to breed the cows it was tense! have fun have common sense and don't worry about anything blowing up.you gotta see the museum in cody!!!!

Hickory
06-11-2016, 05:50 AM
Everyone should visit Yellowstone while its still in Wyoming, from all accounts it's setting on a monster volcano, and if the fear mongers are correct, most of Yellowstone may end up in Kansas if it blows.

winelover
06-11-2016, 07:00 AM
Want to beat the crowds? Plan your arrival the day after Labor Day. You'll have the park, pretty much to yourself. Beautiful scenery and weather, too. Done it twice, with wifey. Plan on doing a lot of driving.......the "Loop" inside the park is a 280 mile, figure eight, to cover all the attractions in four distinct areas. Enjoy, it's an adult Disneyland. First time we went, we spent a full week, there.

Winelover

Hawks Feather
06-11-2016, 08:30 AM
I have visited Yellowstone multiple times and enjoy it. Good advice has been given: don’t get too close to the animals and they will leave you alone, there are many miles of roads but you can get caught behind some people who want to drive 5 miles per hour in open stretches, if possible take along picnic or sack lunches since food prices inside the park are not inexpensive, expect to see way more people than you would like, and stick to the paths. The buffalo do roam and you will see them most of the summer while the elk will come down (in higher numbers) later in the fall. Here is a link to some images that I took at Yellowstone in September 2014 http://www.jerrylatta.biz/Yellowstone-Park-September-201/Yellowstone-National-Park/ telephoto lens will be your friend there and keep you a safe distance from the wildlife.

Jerry

pmer
06-11-2016, 08:45 AM
Thank you for the link to those wonderful pictures! About half way through there is a little building. Is that a shed or a frontier home?

Wayne Smith
06-11-2016, 11:38 AM
As to the risk - there is a real difference between geologic time and human time! Eruptions and earthquakes and such function on geologic time - which is measured in tens of thousands and millions of years. My favorite bumper sticker when we were in Southern California 30+ years ago "Remember, the Palmdale Budge is not all San Anderea's Fault". The great earthquake hasn't happened yet.

Enjoy your week or two in the park and don't worry about the eruption - there will be plenty of warning for you to get well away - it won't happen overnight. Yes, it will likely erupt within the next million years - your one or two weeks are not a large percentage of that.

Plate plinker
06-11-2016, 04:14 PM
Everyone should visit Yellowstone while its still in Wyoming, from all accounts it's setting on a monster volcano, and if the fear mongers are correct, most of Yellowstone may end up in Kansas if it blows.

Kansas is too flat the way it is. This might improve the scenery.

Hickory
06-11-2016, 05:22 PM
Hawks Feather is a professional photographer and I have seen some of his work.
Those are good pictures Jerry.

higgins
06-11-2016, 07:38 PM
I'm a lot closer to the New Madrid fault than to the Yellowstone caldera, but I'm a lot more concerned about the idiot drivers on the road in front of my house than either of them.

MtGun44
06-11-2016, 08:37 PM
Been there nearly every year for the last 35 or so. It is an amazing and wonderful place,
for certain.

If you don't already have reservations for camping, good luck if you plan on going before
Labor Day. Slim chance to stay in the park and it is HUGE, takes hours to drive across IF
THERE ARE NO ANIMAL DELAYS, so staying outside is pretty impractical.

Either plan to go next year and make reservations for camping (forget any chance of a cabin at this
late date) or cabin in Jan or Feb, or even this year (not sure if they still take them more than a year
in advance) or see if you can luck into something in some of the campgrounds. Been there, done that,
and sometimes we won (got a campsite) other times, driving for 2.5 hours to get outside of the park
to find an expensive motel, IF you luck out there, too. Or go after Labor Day.

Been getting worse and worse every year for the last 10-15. Old Faithful Inn is nearly impossible to
get into now, used to be you could get a reservation in the newer part, not so "cool" as the old
part, a month in advance. Not likely now unless you go 6-8 months or more in advance.

Good luck, it is a wonderful place, but finding a place to stay is a trial.

If you go after Labor Day, which most folks can't swing because of kids in school, things drop
off a LOT. But in about 3 more weeks they close the park, so it is a narrow window, and you
may get snowed on. Also, they are closing down campgrounds, so less people, good chance
at finding a camping spot without reservation, but then they start closing and fewer are
available....

Takes minimum 3 days to have a chance to get to all the "good stuff", partly due to huge size
and slow driving. You WILL go NUTS with the fools stopping IN THE ROAD and holding up
traffic to watch a buffalo, or deer. Rangers try to get people to pull over, but some are just
pure out stupid and care not one whit that they are blocking 60 cars who may need to get
somewhere, like a campground before dark.

If you want to go in July or Aug, good luck, I wouldn't even consider trying that period without
reservations. Go online and see, MIGHT find one night in one campground and the next at another
campground (PITA to move each night! and sometimes an hour and a half away) still, but
going to be difficult. IME, no chance at cabins at all this late, for July-Aug.

PM me if you want more details.

Bill

MT Gianni
06-11-2016, 10:29 PM
My son works in West and we are 2 hours north. I like to visit in mid May and September, even them it can get crowded. I would spend a day on a loop from West to Old Faithful. If you have time fish the Firehole river. Next loop is over to Canyon, both falls and up the Lamar valley. N of Mammoth is a hot spring in the river that can get crowded but is relaxing. Plan to leave and enter the park at first light and return after dark if you want to see wildlife. Most of it is gone by 8:00 AM and only going out of cover after 1 hour before sunset. Pack or buy lunches to go with the exception of Old Faithful Lodge which is a nice break. Drive the Yellowstone around Hayden Valley just before dark. Stop another night and look or listen for Elk going from Mammoth to Norris before you crest the mountain. Get quiet with the engine off, no radios, good binos and no lights. Stay from 1 hour before sunset to near dusk. The Park service map will show a bunch of smaller drives. Take most of them as they are less crowded and scenic. Best places for town elk and Bison are the Town of Mammoth and the Madison river between West and Madison junction.
Last Oct we saw Elk, Mule Deer, Bighorn Sheep, Bison, Grizzly and Black Bears, Fox, Coyotes and heard wolves but did not see them. Bee content to see small wildlife and birds by the score. Research Water Ouzels and look for them. Funnest bird out there.
July and August are a different story. I believe you could sell a book solely on the pictures of footwear seen in the park. Look at what the Oriental tourists wear and the Californians. This is on most peoples bucket list so fools abound. The easiest way to miss them is avoid mid-day sites whenever possible.

onceabull
06-12-2016, 01:17 PM
Despite the negatives,there is still a lot to recommend about spending a week or more in/around Y'Stone...about the most memorable event in my case in the turista sections of the park itself was watching a griz.stalk and kill a newbie Elk calf early one June..Beaucoup car jam watching this,of course,as it was not far above Gibbon Falls on the Way to Norris..6+park ranger types on hand,as expected, given that sans them some handwringer would have done their dumbo best to foil the Griz.efforts.. Pnceabull

waksupi
06-12-2016, 03:25 PM
Research Water Ouzels and look for them. Funnest bird out there.

The Blackfoot name for them is Bobbinasswalksupthecreek/

pmer
06-30-2016, 09:43 AM
We're having a great time out hear. We got to see a black bear and her cub yesterday and the views in the park are spectacular. The view of the caldera above Canyon Village really helps to show how big it is. Today were heading towards Jackson via Henry Lake and then north into the Tetons.

Alstep
06-30-2016, 10:25 AM
I made the mistake of driving through Yellowstone on my way across the country when I got discharged from the service 48 years ago in August. Even back then it was like rush hour traffic after work, stop & go crawling. People actually hand feeding the bears. It was like all the city people converging in one spot. Couldn't get out of there fast enough.

runfiverun
06-30-2016, 04:02 PM
wish I would have caught your post earlier, I would have met you for Pizza in J-Hole.

pmer
06-30-2016, 09:56 PM
wish I would have caught your post earlier, I would have met you for Pizza in J-Hole.

Thanks for the offer but no worries. We had a whirlwind last day push in the park area. It was a great drive through Idaho and going east up the Teton pass. We didn't stop in Jackson anyways, just kept going to Jenny Lake and ended up in Cody for a late supper. Talk about some long 10 percent grades! The east entrance for Cody was quite sight to see as well.

Saw lots of people and the critter jams were plentiful too. The kids loved it and we took lots of pictures. There was one lady in Hayden valley that was pretty close to some bison that were sparring and you could tell a bear was near a road because cars would stop any old way on the road and folks would be running around with cameras or binoculars.

tygar
07-01-2016, 11:01 PM
Don't know what you want to do, but float fishing the Yellowstone, the Madison & the Big Horn (not in the park) are real good times. Also horse riding up to high mountain lakes for fishing & just plain for fun is a good time. Lot of great outdoorsy stuff to do out there or just sight see.

Beerd
07-05-2016, 07:38 PM
.............you could tell a bear was near a road because cars would stop any old way on the road and folks would be running around with cameras or binoculars.

great sport, that.
pull off to the side of the road and hang out your window looking at nothing in particular with your binoculars. maybe point and wave for effect.
guaranteed to attract a crowd.
..