32 remington, case fireforming, can I do this?

[gunhawk]

I am trying to arrive at 32 Remington cases from 30-30 Winchester brass.
I have once fired, resized 30-30 brass and had the rim turned off by a machinist, and extractor groove cut, then run this case through 32 remington full length resizer die.
I chambered and extracted this case thru a Remington Model 8 autoloader, caliber 32 Remington, and that worked OK.
Question is: Can I "fireform this case into a 32 remington case?
If that is Ok (safe and will work) to do, how would be recommended way to do that? (best way to "fireform it?)
Again, want to get reloadable 32 remington case from this.
Thanks for any info.

[skeettx]

Gunhawk
Welcome on your first posting.

To answer your question, start with a low end load in the reloading manual and they should fire form just fine.
Page 293 of Lyman #45 Reloading manual

Please report back on your efforts :)

Mike

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-LYMAN-RELOADING-HANDBOOK-45th-EDITION-SPIRAL-BOUND-/191887257197?hash=item2cad5f2e6d:g:OlAAAOSwbYZXUFl V

http://www.gunbroker.com/item/561738819

http://www.gunbroker.com/item/562351984

[ascast]

gunhawk, I use about 8-10grains of Unique, fill the case with cream of wheat or dry rice. A twist of tissue paper holds it all in.
Point straight up and shoot. This may require a second run with culled bullet if your brass is old or work hardened. Use old suspect primers, they will be fine.

[leadman]

I also recommend Cream of Wheat cereal. After the powder, which you may have to adjust to get a fully formed case, put the cow in and light tap the case on the bench to settle it. I use a wax plug in the mouth of the neck to keep the contents in the case. I do alot of this and this method works well. I to use primers obtained from various sources.

[243winxb]

http://www.huntingtons.com/dies_caseform.html Notes:
Case forming dies are for the reloader interested in forming cases from one caliber to another. This is done either because the case needed is prohibitively expensive or it is otherwise unavailable.

The specific steps necessary to form cases will vary greatly depending on what changes must be made to the parent case and may include initial forming, separate base forming, annealing the brass, making the neck larger or smaller, cutting the cartridge rim and fireforming the case in the firearm's chamber to obtain the finished caliber.

Case forming dies are designed to reduce the case by steps to eliminate case stress or collapse and to prolong case life. There will be one or more form dies for each caliber. After forming and trimming, cases must then be full length sized, using the full length sizer in the reloading die set for the finished caliber. RCBS does not recommend using full length sizer dies for the actual case forming process.

Case forming dies (threaded standard 7/8 x 14 unless otherwise noted) will withstand the normal case forming pressures encountered but are not intended to swage the base of the case. When that is required, a special Base Form die is needed. Base Form dies are unthreaded and require the use of a 3-ton arbor press.

Some cases will need to be shortened after initial forming. A Trim Die is designed so that a mill type file can be used to trim the case to the correct overall length without damaging the surface of the die.

Frequently, changes to a case will result in brass that is too thick at the case's neck. A Neck Reamer, if needed, may be chucked in a tap wrench or in a hand drill. A drill press is not recommended.

Suggestions:

A search of MidwayUSA's product offering using "RCBS" followed by the name of the specific finished caliber needed will give a listing of all the RCBS dies available and may help to show what will be needed in that specific case- forming process.

Caliber-specific information and general instructions on case forming can be found in "The Handloader's Manual of Cartridge Conversions" by John J. Donnelly, product number 815626, and in "Designing and Forming Custom Cartridges" by Ken Howell, product number 942114.

RCBS is also available at 800-533-5000 between 6:30 AM and 3:00 PM Pacific time Monday through Friday for questions about what will be needed to form cases.

[EDG]

If you are a stickler for case formed correctly the first time without fire forming you could buy .38-55 Win brass and form it so that your shoulder is in the correct location.

[gunhawk]

Update: First time doing this. With some boolits on hand, (170gr) loaded with minimum load of IMR 3031, and fired for case forming. Action functioned fine with good case ejection. Fired case length still well within specs. Primer and case looked good. Would say a successful fireforming.

[skeettx]

Good report, please keep us informed
Thanks
Mike

[gunhawk]

After taking the summer mostly off from fooling around with this gun, as fall arrived I have been reloading and shooting some of these reformed and fireformed cases I mentioned that were made from 30-30 brass by a machinist. They have been working quite well; have always functioned properly in the gun, ie load and eject, and no signs of any problems. Should mention I have been using minimum and slightly above that loads using IMR 3031 and now IMR 4320. Have some H4895 but lack any loading data for that powder.
By the way, looking for any experiences on powders you use in the model 8 rifles, in 32 Rem. and also 35 Rem. calibers. Looking to keep no higher than mid-range loads in my gun.(32 Rem) Thanks for any input / advice.

[380AUTO]

My Remington model 81 chambered for 300 Sav really shines with 38 grains of IMR3031 With a hornady 150 grain SP. I can consistently shoot clover leafs with this combination at 100 yards

[georgerkahn]

My Remington Model 8 is chambered for the 32 Remington. A great source of cases were those formed by GRUMPA on this site. (They are very comparably and even lower priced than "original" 32 Rem, and seem to last forever -- truly the Energizer Bunny of cases, reload after reload). My load is allllmost the same as 380AUTO's, 'cept I use an even-Steven 35.0 grains of IMR3031. It functions the Model 8 superbly, and -- I'm too lousy a shot for "cloverleafs" -- generally gives ~3 to 4 inch groups at 75 yards. (My Model 8 doesn't have the bestest barrel -- it was made, after all, in 1914!) I have, too, a Model 14 chambered in 32Rem, and this loading works equally well in this 1913 vintage firearm.
geo

[Harter66]

I have a Model 14 Rem in 32 also .

For my rifle I found that the 30-30 and 32 WS was too long . Also that the shoulders were short so the new over size neck up/false shoulder routine was in order .

Bertram brass stocks 30 Rem brass . In the course of a search for 257 Robert I found a fellow willing to part with a small quantity or factory ammo . At that moment 32 Rem was easier to come by and cheaper than 257 or 7x57.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I lubricate cases for fireforming (case sizing lube). Cases can fill chamber more smoothly without stretching.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

If you are a stickler for case formed correctly the first time without fire forming you could buy .38-55 Win brass and form it so that your shoulder is in the correct location.

So you can, but this reminds me of something that came up a while back, in a post about forming .255 Winchester. In the database of my Load From a Disk program the thickness of brass near the head is given as .029in., .30-30 as .024in. and .38-55 as .019in.I don't know the source of that information, and it doesn't necessarily cover all brands and all times, of course. But I would feel happier about doing what you suggest with .375 Winchester, at .228in., which is virtually a modernised version of the .38-55.

A lot has been said about dangers in fireforming with cream of wheat - and called alarmist by some. In moderate pressures with bulleted loads, I think it is part-way alarmist. But in pure case processing with no bullet, I think it is harmless. After all you want is to get brass-expanding pressure with the minimum of powder that will achieve it, and there is a big gap between forming brass and deforming steel.

I wouldn't, however, use anything hard and granular, and rice is the classic example. One of my favourite books on shotgun and smoothbore slug technology is General Journée's "Tir des fusils de chasse", which is surprisingly relevant today, for a man who commanded a division in 1914. It has never been translated or properly reprinted, but describes testing with unusual wadding materials. Rice (and to know why anybody ever thought of that would be a fine thing) produced strangely high pressures, even without a bottlenecked case.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

I lubricate cases for fireforming (case sizing lube). Cases can fill chamber more smoothly without stretching.

That is a good idea as long as the pressure is moderate. I wouldn't do it for fireforming while actually shooting bullets. With a rimmed case a few turns of thread around the case ahead of the rim can make sure the head is hard up against the bolt face, and the stretching is taking place where it ought to.

[Harter66]

30 Rem at $11/20
http://www.custombrassandbullets.com/30remington.html
32 Rem at $34/20
http://www.custombrassandbullets.com/qc108.html

They also list 30-30 basic .

[EDG]

These posts are about getting brass to get an otherwise unshootable gun to shoot. Sometimes we are using a less than ideal expedient case.
Suggesting .375 brass is nearly a worthless idea since they go for about $3.00 apiece now - which means supply is so poor that they are not worth looking for.
Some shooters have taken to using both .38-55 and .30-30 brass in .375 Win rifles. Considering that most of us shoot low pressure lead bullet loads each person can monitor any brass he has made for failure or excess expansion.


So you can, but this reminds me of something that came up a while back, in a post about forming .255 Winchester. In the database of my Load From a Disk program the thickness of brass near the head is given as .029in., .30-30 as .024in. and .38-55 as .019in.I don't know the source of that information, and it doesn't necessarily cover all brands and all times, of course. But I would feel happier about doing what you suggest with .375 Winchester, at .228in., which is virtually a modernised version of the .38-55.

A lot has been said about dangers in fireforming with cream of wheat - and called alarmist by some. In moderate pressures with bulleted loads, I think it is part-way alarmist. But in pure case processing with no bullet, I think it is harmless. After all you want is to get brass-expanding pressure with the minimum of powder that will achieve it, and there is a big gap between forming brass and deforming steel.

I wouldn't, however, use anything hard and granular, and rice is the classic example. One of my favourite books on shotgun and smoothbore slug technology is General Journée's "Tir des fusils de chasse", which is surprisingly relevant today, for a man who commanded a division in 1914. It has never been translated or properly reprinted, but describes testing with unusual wadding materials. Rice (and to know why anybody ever thought of that would be a fine thing) produced strangely high pressures, even without a bottlenecked case.

[EDG]

You might not do it but I do it with almost all cases I form - while shooting bullets. I don't use thread ahead of the rim either.
I form the cases to be a good fit in the chamber and I shoot them with a very thin oil film.



That is a good idea as long as the pressure is moderate. I wouldn't do it for fireforming while actually shooting bullets. With a rimmed case a few turns of thread around the case ahead of the rim can make sure the head is hard up against the bolt face, and the stretching is taking place where it ought to.

[Harter66]

38-55 2.125" Starline
http://www.custombrassandbullets.com/slb146.html
$12/20

They don't list 375 Win but $0.67 ea is a long way from $3 .

[EDG]

That is correct. .375 Win cases are almost impossible to buy at any price.
For the high pressure .375 loads some people insist on real .375 cases.


38-55 2.125" Starline
http://www.custombrassandbullets.com/slb146.html
$12/20

They don't list 375 Win but $0.67 ea is a long way from $3 .

[nagantguy]

If you are a stickler for case formed correctly the first time without fire forming you could buy .38-55 Win brass and form it so that your shoulder is in the correct location.+ one on this a much easier route to go!

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Suggesting .375 brass is nearly a worthless idea since they go for about $3.00 apiece now - which means supply is so poor that they are not worth looking for.


That is indeed the problem if you have to pay that much or can't find any. Midway say it is unavailable and in limited production, which may mean an occasional run. Neither of us know whether the firms which do claim availability actually have it. Also plenty of people have some, or know someone who has. It was worth mentioning.

http://www.eabco.net/375-Winchester-Brass-for-Reloading-50_p_13543.html

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/166597/winchester-reloading-brass-375-winchester-bag-of-50

https://www.westernmetal.ca/shooting/375-winchester-super-fired-brass-bags-20-western-munitions-br-375ws-20

Buffalo Arms describe their .38-55 as being of modern metallurgy but greater capacity than .375 Winchester, and advise keeping pressure down to 38,000 CUP. That would give very useful performance in the .35 Remington, though perhaps not all some people would like to do with it.

When I don't say someone's information is nearly worthless, it may well mean total endorsement of their opinion. Some of the time.

[Harter66]

Here's a question to ask .
From custom brass real 30 Rem is $55 /100 and $16 shipping so $71/100 . Quick trip through the annealing process and a trip through the sizer and it's 32 Rem or for $187/100 ready to load you can have correct headstamp too .
Or buy 30-30 @ $60/100 and spend hours making it rimless , or making it out of range brass from 14 lots spread over the last 50-60 years .
Maybe if I had the lathe and a 1step tool it would be worth $27 to convert new brass , it certainly would be if I knew that the range brass was all recent 1x . But to pay someone to make the cuts $27 and an hr at the press is cheap . I flinch at $117 difference for the correct HS but Ms shot a pig last spring with with a box of 30 WCF 1961 150 gr Silver tip Winchesters in their om box so what do I know

[EDG]

Why don't you read all the information at each of those links?

1. Eabco >>>Our 375 Win brass is made from brand new, unfired 30-30 brass. The headstamp reads "30-30 Win"*. As you probably know, original 375 Winchester headstamped brass is awfully hard to come by. We have developed a proprietary brass forming process to make straight walled 375 Winchester compatible brass from original bottleneck 30-30 brass with NO FIREFORMING. Depending on availability, we have used brand new unfired 30-30 brass from several manufacturers including Remington, Winchester, PPU, and Hornady.

2. Midway - Not available as you say

3. Westernmetal - They are once fired at $1.00 each and they are not available. Westernmetal is a Canuck site and I cannot purchase from them.

Check gunbroker and you will find a bag of 50 cases that is still being bid on and they are up to $125.
So far as I know NO company has advertised it in 4 or 5 years. The only bulk buy of it that I was ever able to find was about 20 years ago and it was relatively expensive then.
I have 2 rifles and a Contender barrel for this caliber. Little did I know that my pack ratted pile of brass would become more valuable than any of my rifles.
I am not sure why you mention .35 Rem but I have plenty of brass for it too. These rounds are all used because they work well with mild cast bullet loads.
The .375 Win is not really needed loaded to its maximum. It is a good round for cast bullets. If you want to run it at maximum pressure get a more powerful cartridge.


I have looked for bargains for about 20 years and have monitored auctions on gunbroker for several years. I can say that searching for a retail source of this brass is a waste of time if you value your time and you are unwilling to pay $3 a case.


That is indeed the problem if you have to pay that much or can't find any. Midway say it is unavailable and in limited production, which may mean an occasional run. Neither of us know whether the firms which do claim availability actually have it. Also plenty of people have some, or know someone who has. It was worth mentioning.

http://www.eabco.net/375-Winchester-Brass-for-Reloading-50_p_13543.html

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/166597/winchester-reloading-brass-375-winchester-bag-of-50

https://www.westernmetal.ca/shooting/375-winchester-super-fired-brass-bags-20-western-munitions-br-375ws-20

Buffalo Arms describe their .38-55 as being of modern metallurgy but greater capacity than .375 Winchester, and advise keeping pressure down to 38,000 CUP. That would give very useful performance in the .35 Remington, though perhaps not all some people would like to do with it.

When I don't say someone's information is nearly worthless, it may well mean total endorsement of their opinion. Some of the time.

[EDG]

Don't let your imagination run away with things.
Lots of 30-30 brass can be found at indoor ranges. This brass has never been on the ground and you can often pick it out by head stamp.
I guess it pays to be an older hand loader because all of my 30-30 brass was swapped for other range brass or it was bought from indoor ranges when it was $.05 each.
Using my $5 /hundred brass it is very inexpensive to turn it into what ever I want. I have the advantage of about 10,000 hrs running lathes.


Here's a question to ask .
From custom brass real 30 Rem is $55 /100 and $16 shipping so $71/100 . Quick trip through the annealing process and a trip through the sizer and it's 32 Rem or for $187/100 ready to load you can have correct headstamp too .
Or buy 30-30 @ $60/100 and spend hours making it rimless , or making it out of range brass from 14 lots spread over the last 50-60 years .
Maybe if I had the lathe and a 1step tool it would be worth $27 to convert new brass , it certainly would be if I knew that the range brass was all recent 1x . But to pay someone to make the cuts $27 and an hr at the press is cheap . I flinch at $117 difference for the correct HS but Ms shot a pig last spring with with a box of 30 WCF 1961 150 gr Silver tip Winchesters in their om box so what do I know

[Harter66]

I didn't fall off the turnip truck and into the loading room yesterday .

I have turned 30-30 and 32 Win Special for 32 Rem which is represented as being "a twin rimless" of the others . It is not it is more like a Weatherby shouldered AI . Having a 32 Rem I have been through the mill to make brass for it . I found pulled factory brass to be too long in my chamber . I also found that I had to use the false shoulder method to get correct shoulder length.
I found after many searches that the last factory regular production run of 32 REMINGTON was in 1964 by Winchester/Olin . 12 yr ago at $38 per box of 20 available from Old West Scrounger . There were a couple of reformed brass sources and small lots to be had here and there .
Right now at 55 cents per case plus shipping for neck up sister brass is ......um ........cost effective many times over for cutting it out of 30-30 . 375 vs 38-55 was never a question perhaps if it were needed to make brass for a 7x6.8 wildcat or 6.8 Rem SPC it might be considered , if there were zero 35 Remington brass available with a Lee bulge buster for 40 S&W or 10 mm .

Fortune has smiled on me having secured 200+ NOS 32 REMINGTON brass and factory loaded ammo and plenty of FC 6.8 and RP and S&B for the 7x6.8 .

Carcano brass could also be run through a bulge buster and resized and trimmed for the REMINGTON cartridges .

[EDG]

You apparently have never ran a lathe much or you would not think it is so difficult to make cases.
I do not consider $.55 cents a case very cost effective when my time is free (because I enjoy the work). Holding the cases is easy using a Wilson trimmer case holder and a 1" 5C collet.
All you have to do is turn off the rim on all the cases and cut an extractor groove. The rest of the case forming is routine work. So what if you lose one. There are millions more .30-30 cases out there. If you would get past the focus on small quantities you could buy 500 once fired 30-30 cases and modify all of them and never have to mess with making 32 Rem cases again.

You might want to try the Lee bulge buster idea before you bank on it. I have formed 7.62 Nato brass to 6.5 Jap which is also about .445 on the head.
However Jap chambers are about .450. I split several dies in the process. So here is a quote that covers the topic - In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice they are not.
I think you learned that with your Carcano adventure.

I have no idea what you are talking about with the 6.8 SPC. For the most part it is worthless since at 1.667" long it is too short for any of these cases.
The Carcano is too large in the head and is too expensive to be forming to something else when you can use .30-30 cases. I would much rather turn rims than swage case heads.


I didn't fall off the turnip truck and into the loading room yesterday .



I have turned 30-30 and 32 Win Special for 32 Rem which is represented as being "a twin rimless" of the others . It is not it is more like a Weatherby shouldered AI . Having a 32 Rem I have been through the mill to make brass for it . I found pulled factory brass to be too long in my chamber . I also found that I had to use the false shoulder method to get correct shoulder length.
I found after many searches that the last factory regular production run of 32 REMINGTON was in 1964 by Winchester/Olin . 12 yr ago at $38 per box of 20 available from Old West Scrounger . There were a couple of reformed brass sources and small lots to be had here and there .
Right now at 55 cents per case plus shipping for neck up sister brass is ......um ........cost effective many times over for cutting it out of 30-30 . 375 vs 38-55 was never a question perhaps if it were needed to make brass for a 7x6.8 wildcat or 6.8 Rem SPC it might be considered , if there were zero 35 Remington brass available with a Lee bulge buster for 40 S&W or 10 mm .

Fortune has smiled on me having secured 200+ NOS 32 REMINGTON brass and factory loaded ammo and plenty of FC 6.8 and RP and S&B for the 7x6.8 .

Carcano brass could also be run through a bulge buster and resized and trimmed for the REMINGTON cartridges .

[Harter66]

I have turned rims .
It was not a terrible experience.
30-30 is not a common at our ranges here .
I don't have a lathe .
If I pay 30-50 cents for a 1x , and 50-1.00 for new brass in common cartridges , it makes little sense to spend the additional time beyond the simple joy/satisfaction of making something out of something else .

I enjoyed the adventure of making a few 7 and 8x57 , 257 Roberts , 358 Win , 45 Raptor from 270 because I had lots of it . I even made a few shouldered cases out of 308 for 45 Colts shotshells . Of course all of this is just gently jamming a case in a sizing die or 2 maybe 3 and cutting to length . I even choked a few cracked neck Mausers down to 243 and 22-250 just to prove I could . I loathe making 222 so when it was available I bought some , enough to hold me 15-20 yr I'd guess .

[KenT7021]

Graf & Sons has .25,.30,and .32 Remington brass available.$42.99 for 50 cases dealer price.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Graf & Sons has .25,.30,and .32 Remington brass available.$42.99 for 50 cases dealer price.

Problem solved (again). Not to mention someone on the following thread buying .375 Winchester from them for the same price a week ago, as well as other possible sources. You aren't wasting time, even your own, by considering procedures and sources which might become necessary in the future.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?321815-375-Winchester&p=3871006#post3871006

[gunhawk]

This new availability of 32 Rem brass ( and also 25 and 30 Rem) is a real godsend. I had been looking everywhere since April when I got the gun, and could find absolutely nothing until now. Some places said they had it, but "out of stock."
Happy to say have just obtained some new 32 brass, and reloading and shooting it now. Will see how many reloads I can get out of a case, using starting loads, and won't go over a mid-range load.
Availability of this brass probably good "while supply lasts!"

[jonp]

If you are a stickler for case formed correctly the first time without fire forming you could buy .38-55 Win brass and form it so that your shoulder is in the correct location.

Old thread but I've seen an old Rem Slide for a song as I doubt most have no idea what it is. Picked my interest and although Graf's has it I'm interested in this as I've only seen brass that needs the rim turned down with a lathe. Can you expand upon this?

[toot]

when i fire form brass i put 6-10 grs. of UNIQUE with COW- PABLUM-or FARINA, on top of the powder. then push the case mouth into a hard bar of soap- IRISH SPRING- or IVORY, or canning wax to seal it, then fire straight up into the air- this increases the pressure, as opposed as to straight line firing.

[EDG]

Remington Slide? a slide what?
The 3 rem cases are .25 Rem., .30 Rem., and 32 Rem that all use the same head diameter.

The .38-55 case can be formed like a basic case to each of the 3 Rem cases above.
I would not buy the .38-55 brass when the Grafs brass is available.
If you have the knowledge and patience you can make all 3 cases from once fired 30-30 cases which are a much cheaper starting place.

I have no idea what you mean by "as I've only seen brass that needs the rim turned down with a lathe."
The 38-55 brass also has a rim that has to be turned off.

It seems that some people come to this forum and they want brass they can buy cheap and brass that they do not have to do much if any work to to use.
It does not work that way. Sometimes you spend a lot of time and money and effort just to get a mediocre case that will go bang.



Old thread but I've seen an old Rem Slide for a song as I doubt most have no idea what it is. Picked my interest and although Graf's has it I'm interested in this Can you expand upon this?

[EDG]

I don't know how you can say that. From my observations 30-30 is by far the most common hunting rifle brass discarded everywhere I have ever shot.



I have turned rims .
It was not a terrible experience.
30-30 is not a common at our ranges here .
I don't have a lathe .
If I pay 30-50 cents for a 1x , and 50-1.00 for new brass in common cartridges , it makes little sense to spend the additional time beyond the simple joy/satisfaction of making something out of something else .

I enjoyed the adventure of making a few 7 and 8x57 , 257 Roberts , 358 Win , 45 Raptor from 270 because I had lots of it . I even made a few shouldered cases out of 308 for 45 Colts shotshells . Of course all of this is just gently jamming a case in a sizing die or 2 maybe 3 and cutting to length . I even choked a few cracked neck Mausers down to 243 and 22-250 just to prove I could . I loathe making 222 so when it was available I bought some , enough to hold me 15-20 yr I'd guess .

[jonp]

Remington Slide? a slide what?
The 3 rem cases are .25 Rem., .30 Rem., and 32 Rem that all use the same head diameter.

The .38-55 case can be formed like a basic case to each of the 3 Rem cases above.
I would not buy the .38-55 brass when the Grafs brass is available.
If you have the knowledge and patience you can make all 3 cases from once fired 30-30 cases which are a much cheaper starting place.

I have no idea what you mean by "as I've only seen brass that needs the rim turned down with a lathe."
The 38-55 brass also has a rim that has to be turned off.

It seems that some people come to this forum and they want brass they can buy cheap and brass that they do not have to do much if any work to to use.
It does not work that way. Sometimes you spend a lot of time and money and effort just to get a mediocre case that will go bang.

I should have been more specific. The thread is about a 32 Rem and that's what I was asking about. The comment I referred to by you seemed to suggest being able to form brass without a lathe which interested me as I don't have one. All of the research I've done indicated a lathe. As for forming it, I don't mind several steps as I do this already for others.
No need to be snarky about it.

[EDG]

You might want to tell us how you might remove a rim witout a lathe.
There is an expected minimum level of knowledge for people venturing into case forming. You seem to be the only person here that either does not know what a .38-55 case looks like. There is no magic to removing rims. If you don't have a lathe you are going to be handicapped.


I should have been more specific. The thread is about a 32 Rem and that's what I was asking about. The comment I referred to by you seemed to suggest being able to form brass without a lathe which interested me as I don't have one. All of the research I've done indicated a lathe. As for forming it, I don't mind several steps as I do this already for others.
No need to be snarky about it.

[jonp]

You might want to tell us how you might remove a rim witout a lathe.
There is an expected minimum level of knowledge for people venturing into case forming. You seem to be the only person here that either does not know what a .38-55 case looks like. There is no magic to removing rims. If you don't have a lathe you are going to be handicapped.

Pretty sure I know what a 38-55 case looks like as I shot my first whitetail with one.

I dont know what a 32 Rem looks like and read my post again. All I read said lathe was needed but the post sounded to me like one could be made without one so I asked.

I don't know why your so hostile. Just want to show everyone how smart you are? Grip yourself, this forum is for answering questions not insulting other members