Help me!!!

[snipin101]

I received a pedersoli sharps for my birthday. I was trying to slug the the bore like I have done on many of my rifles and then I all went bad. I was running the ball down the bore and my dow rods got crossed up and jammed in the bore and broke. I tried to tap them back from the chamber side and the ball got stuck on the end of a cleaning rod and pulled that through. The dow rods however would not budge. So I turned the rifle over and tried to push them the rest of the way and now my cleaning rod is stuck from the muzzle end and I can not get it to come out. I put the cleaning rod in the vise and tried pulling on the gun and still it will not budge an inch. Is there anything I can do? I truly hope I have not messed up the bore. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Can you get a long piece of wooden dowel just a bit smaller in diameter than the bore at a local hardware store or lumber yard? Try running that into the breech end and tapping on it.

[snipin101]

I thought about that and I will try it tomorrow. I will spray lube down the muzzle and try tapping it out and hope and pray it come out. If that does not work any other ideas out there?

[country gent]

How much room is around the cleaning rod and bore? Im assuming it was a small rod 22 cal. If so find a piece of brass tubing and cut a slit down its length to sit around rod a small caliber pistolcase with matching slit soldered on this as to go to center of case. Use this around rod to try and tap dowels out. You need to slide the dowels off the rod pushing from chamber end on the dowels will drive them up the rod making it tighter. You may end up sacrificing the rod by cutting the handle off to get around it. If you can tell where the 3 come together and are bound up mild heat from a heat gun 400*-600* may dry wood and shrink it making it easier to remove. Oil water of solvents may swell wood making it tighter still. The tube with slot may do the trick as it may be able to push on one dowel only and push it thru. I really would recomend tryin to drill it out yet. Thats alot tougher to accomplish and requires some special tools and drill sharpening. If you have someone to help you support the rifle try putting the cleaning rod in the vise your helper supports the rifle and pulls firmly on it while you use a 8" long soft block of wood and 2-3lb hammer to tap firmly against the muzzle. This may pull the cleaning rod as the force of helper pulling and your jarring may move it out.

[Frank46]

Go to a local welding shop and see if you can get a 3' piece of either 1/4" or 5/16" brass rod and use this to get your stuck dowels and cleaning rod out. If a 45 caliber then get a 3/8" piece. No more dowels as you have found out why they are no good for slugging. And that was not meant as a dig. Once you get the cleaning rod out, then use the brass rod. Lowes and home depot sell brass rod but only in the smaller sizes. A welding shop supply house would be a good bet for the 3/8" size if all other suggestions fail. Frank

[Bad Ass Wallace]

You have a lead projectile stuck. Without harming the barrel temper or blueing you can use an LPG flame to melt the lead enough that it will release its hold in the barrel.

[Jeff Michel]

A solid brass rod close to the bore diameter. If it's .45, a 7/16 is perfect, 3/8 will work also. If you can't find it locally, McMaster-Carr or Enco carries brass rod. Place in padded vice, insert rod into barrel, whack end of rod with a hammer, 2 pound drill or crosspein works nice. Once you get it moving it's all down hill. This operation will take a bit of force, don't be afraid to hit it. The brass rod will not hurt the barrel. Don't panic, your certainly not the first.
Good luck

[Ragnarok]

Hmmm....I'm not sure how much stuff is stuck in the bore!

I can tell you about getting a big hunk of wood dowel out of a US M1903 rifle(Rock Island). I bought the M1903 off my gunsmith's rack with the dowel-rod stuck in the bore and pounded flat at the muzzle....appear a previous owner had fired a reload with no powder in it and lodged a 150gr spritzer just in the bore ahead of the chamber. Then they tried driving the bullet out with dowel-rod and failed...took it to the gunsmith who recommended a re-barrel and they just left the rifle there. Didn't want to pay for a barrel I guess.

Anyhow..I brought the 1903 home and pondered it...showing it to my son who pondered it. Went out to my man-cave one afternoon and my son had got the wooden dowel out of the bore!!....His solution was to carefully drill a small hole in the dowel from the muzzle...then screw a brass wood screw into the rod...clamp the screw-head in the vise and yank the rifle barreled action off the wood dowel...apparently came right out.

The rifle still had the bullet stuck just ahead of the chamber...I took the steel cleaning rod from my trapdoor rifle and just dropped the small end down the bore and it knocked the spritzer bullet out the first try!

It's not like I recommend packing a rifle bore with wood dowel and drilling on it from the muzzle!!...However my kid didn't get into the bore with the drill bit...and the screw trick worked well...pulled the dowel right out(says the son). Got a good M1903 rifle for basically salvage price.

[John Taylor]

7/16 brass rod, this is where I get mine http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=505-3717&PMPXNO=945338

You can heat the barrel up and the wood will shrink and may come out easy. The barrel can be heated to 700 degrees without hurting it, lead melt at a lower temp.

[dubber123]

They sell slide hammers that have a Vise Grip attachment, that will remove the cleaning rod. There are plenty of suggestions for the dowel. I did the dowel thing. Once. Same result as you. I used a steel rod wrapped in tape to protect the bore, and a big hammer to drive it out. Good luck.

[country gent]

The big issue now is tht cleaning rod and the dowels driving the dowels towards the muzzle will slide them up the cleaning rod making it tighter Driving from the muzzle the cleaning rod is in the way for a rod to get where it needs to be. Clamping rod in a vise and having someone pull while he taps solidly with a wood block on the muzzle should pull it out then a rod to push the dowels out the back. The cleaning rod is probably scrap already having bent or sprung. Hope fully there is a brass jag on the end to offer some protection. The slide hammer vise grip attachment is a good idea also.

[Geezer in NH]

I suggest a GUNSMITH

[Bad Ass Wallace]

Not wanting to get off topic but I encounter this a lot, "folks slugging the bore of a Pedersoli."

There are numerous vids on youtube and even the Ped site regarding making barrels and how they are all tapered, so you have shallow rifling at the throat and deeper rifling at the muzzle. The single most important area is the throat and how your boolit sits in relation to the lands, the bore is not constant but the land or groove diameter is!

My 50/70 has a 2 thou taper from chamber to muzzle and determined by cerrosafe casting of the barrel at the muzzle and another of the chamber and throat.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v152/BAWallace/bore_groove_zpsfslexacp.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/BAWallace/media/bore_groove_zpsfslexacp.jpg.html)

[oldred]

I would like to add a comment about heating if you decide to go that route, and it very well may be the best route to go, proceed with caution and be extremely careful to heat evenly all the way around and then DO NOT cool in water, let it air cool so that it cools evenly also. It is very very easy to warp a long thin tube such as a barrel and in fact it will doubtless happen during the process unless the whole barrel is heated evenly in an oven, this shouldn't hurt a thing and it should return to the original shape if done properly. Heating unevenly could distort the barrel to the point that it would be unable to return to it's original *straightness* and dunking it in water while still hot would very likely result in at least some permanent warpage.

As a long time weldor and metal worker I have used heat on many occasions to align shafts and tubing, it's really surprising just how much a long heavy tube like a rifle barrel can be moved and how little heat it takes to do so, quick cooling with water will wreak havoc with straightness!

[brasshog]

I had this exact same thing happen to me when I slugged my highwall's bore. First bit of advice is to see a gunsmith. Disclaimer: DO NOT USE a cleaning rod for this or a very small rod in general as it can flex in the barrel or puncture the slug and jam it further by trying to increase it's diameter. Now, what I did (I do not recommend this) is I took a steel rod that was slightly smaller than bore diameter and wrapped it with two length wise wraps for protecting the barrel. I inserted the rod to gauge the depth. I marked my depth on the rod with a sharpie. At the "slug" end and the muzzle end I wrapped enough duct tape on it to make it a snug fit to the bore so that there was no way that it wasn't centered. I tried tapping with a variety of hammers up to four pounds with no luck. Finally, I had had enough and turned the rifle muzzle down and rammed it home on a 2x4 sitting on my concrete floor. That budged it and I was able to use a one pound dead blow to get her out. I inspected the tape on the rod for damage and found none. Good luck.

Plan B: Last Resort-get a long hollow tube (tape as above) that fits inside the barrel. Taping it ensures that the slug gets a good blast. Spray CO2 (canned wart remover works) down the tube to freeze the lead and cause it to shrink. Tap her out. It may be easier than heating the barrel. You may also try setting the rifle in the sun for an hour or so and do this.