Does my Remington RB need a new hammer?

[rickw55]

I have a Remington rolling block that has been converted into a 20 gauge shotgun. I'd like to re-barrel it and make a .45-70 rifle out of it.
One problem is the hammer. The nose of the hammer has been reduced in order to clear the 20 gauge shell when loading. This has caused the nose of the hammer to no longer fit in the recess in the breech block. Here are some pictures of what I'm talking about:168729168730
Is this going to be a problem with the .45-70 cartridge? I've read that some of the strength of the rolling block action depends on the fit of the hammer in to the breech block.Since this hammer has been ground down, is it safe to use as-is for a conversion to .45-70?
If i do need a new hammer, should I look for an original, or get a new replacement from The Rifle Shoppe?
Also, I can wiggle the breech block slightly when the hammer is down. Is this OK? I was assured that it was when I bought it, but I'd like to make sure.
Here are a couple of more pictures of the action, to give you a better idea of what the gun is like:168731168732
Thanks,
Rick W

[John Taylor]

If the nose of the hammer is hitting the firing pin enough to fire then the gun is safe to shoot. It is the lower part of the hammer that is under the breach that holds it closed. The "bobbed" hammer is quit common on large cases. The hammers from the rifle shop are castings as far as I know. This would require fitting and hardening. Someone good at welding small parts could build up the old hammer nose if needed. When fitting a new barrel there should be very little to no movement of the breach block. I have seen the angle off a bit on some breach blocks, usually loose at the top. If the back of the barrel is square and the breach block does not fit close from top to bottom then it will need to be trued up by machining the face.

[rickw55]

John,
Thanks for the info. That's what I needed to know!
RickW

[marlinman93]

As John mentioned; be sure that whoever rebarrels it checks the breech block to ensure it's square to the barrel/receiver! A quick check with a flashlight on the back side will reveal if the gap is even, or wider at the top. If it's wider at the top it needs to be either squared up by milling, or built up with Tig, and then squared. If it is rebarreled and not fixed, the brass will flex and shape to the angled block, and after one firing it will only fit back into the chamber in one direction.
John Taylor is the guy I would use to rebarrel it, and ensure the block is true. I'd have him build the hammer up also. It probably works fine, but good time to repair it.

[rickw55]

Thanks for the info, marlinman.
I will probably be the one who re-barrels it, and I will make sure to see that the breech block ends up square to the barrel. I also intend to face the front of the receiver square with the axis of the barrel.
I know a VERY good welder, and will probably have him build up the hammer. It may work fine as-is, but the shape just looks off to me.
Rick W

[John Taylor]

Thanks for the info, marlinman.
I will probably be the one who re-barrels it, and I will make sure to see that the breech block ends up square to the barrel. I also intend to face the front of the receiver square with the axis of the barrel.
I know a VERY good welder, and will probably have him build up the hammer. It may work fine as-is, but the shape just looks off to me.
Rick W

When facing off the front of the action it works best to thread a shaft and turn it down so it will go threw the action far enough to use a center that clears the tang. Must be long enough so you have room to wrk between the chuck and face of the action. This insures that the face is true to the threads

[marlinman93]

Another way is to hard face the block with a tig welder, prior to facing it off. Material can be added on the wider gap towards the top, rather than take more off the closer lower portion. Make certain to check your two pins for block and hammer before truing, and correct any excess slop there first! I've seen pretty loose clearances on these 140 year old guns in the pins and hammer/block!

[rickw55]

Thank you both for your input. I appreciate it!
Which should I do first: work on the action and take the loosness out of it, or fit the barrel and then do the action?

Rick W

[marlinman93]

Need the action in top shape before fitting the barrel.