Help in removing powder-lead form cylinder.

[Life Member]

I got a GREAT tip for removing lead from a barrel here. The old chore boy trick, it's great. Any one have a tip to remove the build up on the front edge of the cylinder and in the flute? I've been scrubbing it with a copper brush, man that's hard on the blueing and not good on SS.
Bryon

[Blackwater]

I've found those "Miracle Cloths" to be good for this. They also do great for cleaning a leaded bore, too. I think Lyman sells them for that purpose? They'll all do good on whatever kind of cleaning you need. Best thing for bores is a Lewis Lead Remover, and I think Lyman carries them now. Great stuff. I used to shoot some of the grungiest ammo you can imagine, but we got 1,000 rds. free every 6 mo., and what's a gun guy gonna' do but shoot free ammo? Had it not been for the Lewis Lead Remover, though, I might well have given the stuff away, it was THAT bad! And those Miracle Cloths have no abrasive in them, too, so you can keep your gun's finish very well and original.

[C. Latch]

peracetic acid.

A lifetime supply will cost $5, including the gas you'll use to get to wal-mart and back. Just be careful with it, as once you've used it, what's left is contaminated with a very soluble and ingestable form of lead. IOW, you need to wear rubber gloves while using it, and wash your hands when done. But it is very, very efficient at cleaning the front of a revolver cylinder. Five minutes' soak, a quick brushing, then you're done.

Half vinegar, half hydrogen peroxide. Learned that from the members here.

[44man]

I use M-Pro 7 and a suede brush. 7 was made to clean military cannons, is water based and really eats carbon off. With a little work even the rings come off the cylinder fronts.
On my SA's I just rinse clean with hot water.
After any other cleaner, Hoppe's, etc, patches come out black.

[Wild Bill 7]

I used Remington bore cleaner first with a nylon brush. Then fire clean and most of the time all you have to do from then is use a few drops of fire clean, brush with the nylon brush and done. It's really sweet to just wipe the gun off and run a dry patch through the barrel and done. Then a couple of drops of fire clean on a patch, run it through the barrel, wipe the face of the cylinder and the rest of the gun.

[Life Member]

A lot of really good advice here. A BIG thanks!
Bryon

[DerekP Houston]

I use M-Pro 7 and a suede brush. 7 was made to clean military cannons, is water based and really eats carbon off. With a little work even the rings come off the cylinder fronts.
On my SA's I just rinse clean with hot water.
After any other cleaner, Hoppe's, etc, patches come out black.

That is good to know, thanks! I've been getting some buildup on the rings of my 38's that won't scrub off.

[Nueces]

I have found that a short soak with Ed's Red (sans acetone), followed by brushing, gets under lead in the bore as well as that around the forcing cone and cylinder face.

[fecmech]

I believe that is a lead coating in the front of the flute. On my .38 cal revolvers I simply flare a .357 case mouth more than normal and use it as a scraper in the flute. I've found if you match the case size to the flute it works pretty good.

[Life Member]

To report back, being old school and cheap, I tried the vinegar and hydrogen peroxide solution and it works great. Soft cloth and very little rubbing and it was gone. Thanks to all for your help. Happy reloading and shooting. With the warmer whether I'll be going to the rifle range starting next week.
Bryon

[gnostic]

I think some of the 'Miracle Cloths' will remove bluing. I've used them on stainless handguns without problems...