Help Me Pick My First Mold

[matchlite]

Howdy gang ! I'm just starting to work on melting down the WWs I've collected over the last 10 years or so, making up ingots. I've got my ingot setup complete and running. Now it's time to get the casting equipment. Initially, I want to cast 45ACP bullets for my new Springfield MC Operator, then later on start casting for my 40S&W guns and my 10mm guns. Yesterday I purchased an RCBS Pro-Melt at the nearest reloading supply store, so next I need to purchase a mold. I'm not set on any one bullet design, but I think I'd like to try a 200gr SWC design for my first bullets. The shooting I'll be doing most is punching holes in paper and ringing some steel. I'm looking for recommendations as to a good beginner mold, something that can be a little forgiving for my first pour. Not sure if I should be looking at steel, aluminum, or brass molds. I don't mind spending a little money for my equipment, as I'd rather "buy once, cry once". That being said, a high end mold is not out of the question (Accurate, MP, NOE, etc.) I'm also looking for recommendations as to a decent luber / sizer that will give me years of service. I like the Star setup, but not sure it's necessary for a beginner caster. I'm sure I'd be just as happy with a Lyman or RCBS setup. Basically, if you were starting over with no equipment, what would your wish list look like ? Thanks for any input !

[dondiego]

If you have never cast before, start with a cheaper LEE 2 cavity mold and go from there. If you make a mistake, you won't cry too long. Once you get more experience you will want to try different molds made from different materials.

[marlin39a]

I would say to go with a Lyman or RCBS mold to start. A double cavity will serve you well. Those Lee molds can be hit or miss on quality, and usually miss.

[murf205]

Lee 452-228-1R is approximately a 230 gr round nose that simulates the old hardball profile and it is one of the most forgiving molds you can start with, as in not many super sharp edges. Just strive to keep the base of the boolit well defined and you can hardly go wrong. This can be done by giving the sprue a big puddle on top when pouring. In my 45's they shoot as well or better than anything I have tried. It sounds like you have some good equipment so get to casting. The more you pour, the more you learn, plus, the members on this site are as knowledgeable as eager to help as you will find. Good luck and keep us posted.

[DerekP Houston]

I'd start with a rcbs 2 cavity again. My original molds took quite a beating before I figured out the tips and tricks listed here. I can cast twice as fast with the 2 cavity vs the 6 and generally get more keepers anyways. I would not use a lee 2 cavity again.

[Silverboolit]

You could look at a 4 cavity mold with 2 of the cavaties bored for a round nose and the other 2 for a SWC. I forget which maker can do this, either NOE or Accurate. I would not start with a SWC at first as there is a learning curve for the design. The round nose is more forgiving with loading as you don't know how your pistol will feed with the SWC. Don't want to tell you what to do, but casting a bunch and having difficulties loading is a real turn-off to casting.

[Silverboolit]

As far as lubing, look into the coatings topic here. I have gone to PC'ing all of my handgun ammo and could not be happier. I do have a RCBS luber and it works very well.

[runfiverun]

the rcbs 200 gr swc would be a fine mold to work with.
one single lube groove has worked for me since forever.

as far as the lubesizer the star would be pretty hard to beat.
it's easier to operate as a single unit and when you get going it offers the upgrades to speed things along.
with the rcbs or lyman your stuck at one speed.
which is fine if you only need 100 boolits, but if you want to lubesize and load and shoot 500 in one day you need the star.

[mdi]

For new reloaders and new casters I recommend starting with a tried and true bullet and load. So for a 45 ACP it would be a 230 gr. LRN. This bullet is relatively easy to cast, feeds easily and has been reloaded 13.75 bizillion times. Any problems have been worked out and info readily available for solutions. Load data is available everywhere. Lee molds are inexpensive and most users have few if any problems (I have 12 Lee molds w/no "bad" ones). Get the casting/lubing/loading down with a "classic" then branch out to a H&G 68 clone...

[Mk42gunner]

There are two "classic" 200 grain SWC's for the .45; one is the Hensley & Gibbs 68, the other is the Lyman 452460.

The H&G 68's claim is that it feeds like ball ammo in a 1911, and just about everybody makes a more or less clone, even Lee.

The 452460 has a very stubby nose, thus requiring a very short oal, but it feeds well in my Kimber 1911. I have never had a boolit profile induced jam with it. It was the first .45 mold I found, it works, I haven't looked for another SWC.

I do have one of the Lyman RN molds, but honestly, I have never heated it up.

RCBS makes quality molds, too.

Lubrisizer?

If I had it to do over again, I would get a Star for the handguns rounds and one RCBS Lubamatic for rifles. As runfiverun stated, the Lyman/RCBS type are slow when you are wanting to do several hundred at once.

For the .45 I might even go with a Lee sizer and tumble lube with BLL.

Aluminum molds are lighter and do not rust, sprue plates made of steel do though. Brass molds are heavy, but cast nice. Iron molds, take care of them and they will last a long time.

Robert

[matchlite]

Great info guys, keep it coming! I'm like a sponge when it comes to knowledge / information, so this is all very much appreciated !

[DerekP Houston]

Fyi MiHec is doing a rerun of the h&g 68 clone would certainly be a good choice to start.

[Shiloh]

LEE H&G #68 clone. 200 gr. SWC. I hab the BB machined (Fly Cut) off.
My first LEE mold was a six banger. Lyman 311299 was my first mold IIRC.

SHiloh

[Yodogsandman]

I like the Lyman 4 cavity 452460 and the 6 cavity Lee 453-230 TC for accuracy in my RIA 1911, 45ACP. I think the Lyman, steel mold would be best to start with. Very easy to get going. I'd suggest preheating any mold on a hot plate (375*-400*F) prior to start casting. At the right temperature, you can start dropping perfect boolits with the first cast.

I found that I needed to size faster and in bigger quantities than the RCBS lubrisizer could do, so got a Lee .452" size and lube kit. It screws right into your press and is capable of sizing about 500 boolits per hour. I then tumble lube with Ben's Liquid Lube (BLL) to lube them up. BLL is made from 60% Lee Liquid Alox and 40% Johnsons One Step Liquid Floor Wax. Place about 50 boolits in a plastic ice cream bucket with about 10 drops BLL and swirl them around till coated. Dump them out on a nonstick surface and separate a little to dry for about 2 hours. I use a 2"x4" frame with 1/4" wire mesh on the bottom for this for drying about 500 at a time. One coat is enough for most pistol boolits. Much faster and easier than powder coating or any other lube method.

[matchlite]

Is there anything wrong with tumble lubing a non-tl bullet design? I.E., one that has a single grease groove.

[matchlite]

LEE H&G #68 clone. 200 gr. SWC. I hab the BB machined (Fly Cut) off.
My first LEE mold was a six banger. Lyman 311299 was my first mold IIRC.

SHiloh

What was the reasoning for cutting the bullet base section off of the mold ?
FYI, I do have a lathe and a big knee mill in my home shop, so I am capable of making a few adjustments if needed.....

[Yodogsandman]

If there is, I haven't found it. The micro grooves on some boolit designs were made to hold more liquid lube for tumble lubing. Tumble lubing traditional designs works just fine.

I also tumble lube traditional groove rifle boolits with 3 coats of BLL with no leading and great results.

[DerekP Houston]

Ive tumble lubed both TL and non-TL boolits just fine as well. Both powder coat and hitek the same.

[Echo]

Is there anything wrong with tumble lubing a non-tl bullet design? I.E., one that has a single grease groove.
Not a thing. I do it as a matter of course - pistol boolits get TL'd w/Recluse(45/45/10) loob.
And some folks (me included) don't trust the BB - the base is the rudder of the boolit, and it's my belief that a nice square base is better than a beveled one. Not supported by experimentation, but there we are...
And the H&G 68 is the Gold Standard, but I like my 452460 4-banger. Over 3.6 grs BE, it functioned my wad gun and shot better than I could. The suggestions re RN boolits are valid, too. Check on eBay for molds - sometime one can find good buys there. If it doesn't work out, re-sell it and press on...

[bangerjim]

I have a ton of LEE molds 2 and 6 banger. Do not be afraid of the quality. I have always dropped perfect boolits from all my Lee's. Once you get going, you can alway elect to spend 4-6X the money on a "name dropper" mold's. And sell the Lee's on here.

Most that bemoan Lee 2 bangers are talking about the old ones with the horrible index rods/pins. The new designs are far better. But a new Lee one no some used older one. They are very inexpensive and include the handles.

Now that I own almost every mold Lee makes, I buy only brass custom molds. I like 4,5,6 cavity molds!

Grease lube or powder coat......which ever you choose to do. I dropped all grease 3+ years ago and now PC everything for every cal I cast & shoot. Want to know more??????? Read the stickies on alternate coatings on here.

Have fun and enjoy your new hobby.

bangerjim

[almostgone]

The 452460 is a great mold to start out with. It was easy for a novice (me) to get good boolits and they were very accurate. Good positive reinforcement. The molds are plentiful and relatively inexpensive. There is nothing wrong with Lees but I found casting with an Iron mold more forgiving when youre still in the dark and the light hasnt quite come on yet. (and the first two Lee molds I got were the old ones and utter cr*p and I didnt know any better) Good luck ask questions its very enjoyable hobby

[matchlite]

Fyi MiHec is doing a rerun of the h&g 68 clone would certainly be a good choice to start.

Those MP molds look like works of art ! I definitely would like one of those at some point. Is there going to be a group buy on the H&G68 clone, or do you buy direct from their website ?

[OS OK]

Buy some SWC's before buying the mold…see if your 1911 will digest them…not all 1911's are created equal. You might have to settle with a cone shape, they will cut pretty well on paper, at least they wont mangle the target holes like the RN variety…well unless you go with a RNF.

[matchlite]

Went ahead and got in on the MP group buy for the FB H&G68 clone. I'm going to order a couple of the Lee 2 hole molds to start with though. One of the 200SWC and one of the 230RN.

[DerekP Houston]

Those MP molds look like works of art ! I definitely would like one of those at some point. Is there going to be a group buy on the H&G68 clone, or do you buy direct from their website ?

Just add your name to the list, he has done this mold before so he already has the equipment ready. from what I read it should be a 'quick' run in the next month or 2. Once they are finished he mails you a paypal invoice and then the mold is shipped to your door. This is my 3rd or 4th mihec, I've collected some of the others as well, equally high quality. My lee 6 cavity did great and I still use them often. They simply don't offer HP versions and I've gotten addicted to fancy boolits.

edit: apparently you already got on the list :D. I don't have a *need* for multiple molds, but it is a fun hobby!

[matchlite]

So today, ordered the Lee 452-228-1R 2 bullet mold, the Lee 452-200swc 2 bullet mold, a Lee .452 sizer and TL kit, Hornady 45acp die set, 45acp taper crimp die, the ptx expander and the ptx adjustment linkage. I have a NIB lock n load AP that I've had for about 10 years. I think I'll really like the Lee sizer and tumble lube setup for now. Based on comments above, looks to be faster than the Lyman or RCBS setup for sizing..... I'll probably order a Star sizer / luber, once I feel it's something that could benefit me. Thanks again for everyone's help!

[Leadmelter]

RCBS 201K, it is only a 2 cavity but it makes a whole bunch of boolits with little work.
Leadmelter
MI