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View Full Version : Question rather than tip or trick . . . TIG weld



TCLouis
05-10-2016, 11:20 PM
How deep is the penetration on a TIG weld?

I am thinking reshaped bolt knob addition to build up base of old bolt knob, then I come back to file into a final shape.

Yeah sure anyone can just cut off the original handle and weld on a new bolt handle.

No, not really worth paying someone either! Just gonna be a lead slinging CF "Plinker"

I am fixing some Bubbas idea of kewl!

I am thinking they were going for the butter knife handle shape and stopped.

bstone5
05-10-2016, 11:31 PM
The normal rule for TIG is to apply 1 amp per .001 of material thickness.

If the area is beveled than a lot less current is required.

I weld bolt handles at 80 amps most of the time.

Keep the weld area small and use a very wet rag in the area where the weld is not being done.

Have TIG welded a lot of Remington bolt handles that were originally installed with brazing.

Have also done few 788 bolt handles.

country gent
05-10-2016, 11:40 PM
TIG does a good job and can be very accuratly applied by a skilled welder. The correct filler material for whats being welded is important. a heat sink type set up to keep bolt body and handle cool is important slos. A tray the bolt set in with water covering the bolt and handle with just the knob and room to work on it. There are clays and putties for this also. Have a good idea of the shape you want when starting makes it easier to "see" the shape you want when building it up. Ive also sen the knobs cut down for a 5/16 24 thread and a new knob threaded on. On NRA match rifles it used to be "fashionable" to stretch or extend the handle and add a bigger knob for better leverage and surer control. A good welder can lay what you want down with very little to clean up.

Frank46
05-11-2016, 12:01 AM
Think Brownells sells what they call a "heat stop" paste and comes in tubes like toothpaste. Very effective for localizing the heat affected zone. Frank

pietro
05-11-2016, 02:30 PM
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FWIW, if no heat sink (heat stop, etc) is used, it's a very strong possibility that the hardening on the firing pin / striker cam (located under the root of the bolt handle), machined into the rear edge of the bolt body, could be destroyed - eventually resulting in very difficult raising of the bolt handle (which performs cocking & primary extraction).


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