Split .44 Magnum Case Removal Henry Big Boy

[DoctorBill]

I have a Henry .44 Remington Magnum Big Boy lever gun.

http://s19.postimg.org/4ukqhl5cz/Henry_Big_Boy_Rifle_44_Mag.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

I have had two cases split on me and leave the front half of the case
stuck (hard) in the rifle's chamber. Shooting with THAT rifle came to
a grinding halt !

A couple years ago (and a lot of life rolling over me), the first case split.
But - I do not remember how I removed it.....I'm 73 now - so give me a break !

Last week it happened again ! Been asking my gun shooting friends how to
remove it (to no avail) and had some internet sites given to me on how some
folk remove the split cases. Apparently, this is a common problem....

Notice how small the ejection port is ! Kinda hard to get any tool into THAT !
To remove the BOLT, you have to completely disassemble the Henry !
So getting at the split case from the rear would be major major.
Not like taking the cylinder out of Dirty Harry's revolver, either.

Here is an idea that Gary, a machinist friend of mine found:
http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2014/02/broken-shell-removal.html

The photo of the "7/16" x 20 NF tap" idea seemed genius.
EXCEPT the author of the link had to disassemble his rifle to do it ! Yuko.

So I pondered for a while and came up with an idea - a variation on that theme.

Why not make this:
http://s19.postimg.org/mzt3hwfhf/Making_Case_Puller_A.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

So I did make it with my handy, dandy ENCO 9x20 Lathe !
I made it out of a piece of scrap mild Iron Rod.

I used my Harbor Freight Mini-Milling Machine to drill the
60° apart holes and mill the flat areas.

http://s32.postimg.org/srmf37w0l/Ready_to_part_off_2.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

Please excuse the poor machining - I am a very amateur "machinist"....

Here is a series of pictures showing how it worked.

http://s19.postimg.org/l9a2gexyb/My_Broken_Case_Remover_3.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

This device is very small and fits into the Lever Rifle's Chamber
without scratching the receiver.
You push it toward the front of the rifle while turning it with a
rod made to enter the small holes every 60° - thus screwing the
threads into the broken case (but not harming the chamber).

The taper on the front end allows the device to enter the split case
and slightly thread itself into the Brass Split Case (but the threads
are too narrow to engage with the chamber's metal)

http://s19.postimg.org/srxt2seoz/Extracting_the_Broken_Case.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

Then push a 3/8ths diameter Dowel down the barrel and tap the
device with the captured split case back into the receiver - out comes
the broken case !

http://s19.postimg.org/htmjklq3n/Broken_Case_Out_on_Device.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

The case had to be removed from the device with gas pliers...!

Here is the split case removed from my device.

http://s19.postimg.org/fqc4cxqar/Broken_Case_Removed.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

The rod was made from a 10 penny nail.

This thing fits into your pocket and along with a wood dowel,
allows you to remove the split case "in the field" instead of
stopping activity and taking the weapon home to dissemble !

A 3/8ths inch steel rod about a foot long dropped down the barrel
would dislodge the device as did the wood dowel allowing everything
to be put into your backpack or shooting case if you were 'at the range".

How's them apples !?

Now if LEE or Henry or somebody would just manufacture this device,
they could sell it for $10 and we could all stop cussing and spitting
when a .44 Magnum case splits.....

DoctorBill

http://s19.postimg.org/ywpbg46sj/My_Broken_Case_Remover_1.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

http://s19.postimg.org/43s0bt2zn/My_Broken_Case_Remover_2.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

[tja6435]

That is genius, perhaps patentable. Very nice problem solving.

[pietro]

.

Interesting - but I just remove the bolt & reach into the separated case with a spring hook (tool - google), catch the hook onto the case mouth & pull it out rearward.


.

[DoctorBill]

OK pietro....where do you obtain this "spring hook (tool - google)"
Tell us all where to get one ! I've been looking.

BTW - "Just remove the bolt" - lots of laughs ! In the field ?
On a Henry Big Boy !? Give me a break !

http://s19.postimg.org/4ukqhl5cz/Henry_Big_Boy_Rifle_44_Mag.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

I understand that one gun supplier (Midsouth ?) had one for sale
for .44 Magnum years ago, but discontinued them.

Too Bad - So Sad. Left me in the lurch.

I had to come up with a solution.
Edison's quote - "Necessity is the mother of invention." (?)

Patentable ?
I worked in an Industry where we tried to patent something.
Hideous legal rubbish and costs. Endless arguing with moronic
patent clerks who just wanted us to go away.....

I doubt that the profit from the annual sales on an Item like this would
even pay for the first hour of a patent attorney's Fee.....

Just a thought - I wonder what any local machine shop would
charge me to make 100 of these on a CnC Machine ?

DoctorBill

[winelover]

On occasion....I've had that happen with my 1894 Marlin 44 Mag carbine. My solution was to apply Kroil to the chamber area and let it penetrate, followed by a brass jag and a tight fitting patch. BTW, I was in the field, just returned to my camp and got out the cleaning kit.

Winelover

[DoctorBill]

Yes, winelover.

I tried that on my last split case and it didn't work.

Probably because at the range, my son levered the Henry and when the
bullet wouldn't chamber, tried to force it - which pushed the split case in
even harder. ....or maybe it was me who did that - hard to remember.

In any case (no pun intended), it didn't work.

So that is why I made the goodie (I need to give it a name!).

When discussing this with my machinist friend, Gary, he told me
that one of our friends who does a lot of Cowboy Shooting told
him (convoluted story, no?) that he should never use Nickel Plated
Brass cased bullets - they are known for splitting !

I reloaded some Nickel Plated cases about 2 years ago and the
split case was a Nickel Plated Brass case.....lesson learned !

http://s19.postimg.org/3zpgnfzoj/Reloads_2.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

DoctorBill

[gnostic]

It's my understanding that broken cases are easily removed with penetrating oil and an oversized bore brush.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

+1 on the oversize bore brush, penetrating oil, wet patch in chamber, let the oil sit for a day, safe and usually works

[pietro]

OK pietro....where do you obtain this "spring hook (tool - google)" Tell us all where to get one ! I've been looking.

BTW - "Just remove the bolt" - lots of laughs ! In the field ? On a Henry Big Boy !? Give me a break !





Here's a spring hook tool, as googled: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/DURATOOL-TL15788-/22-21360

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/content/productimages/s2/22-21360.jpg



Removing the bolt, anywhere is a piece of cake (It's done just like a Marlin 336) - simply open the bolt a half-inch or so, remove the lever pivot screw to remove the lever, then withdraw the bolt to the rear. (re-assemble in reverse order ;) )

FWIW, I've used a cartridge rim to remove the lever pivot screw, but it's also easy enough to tote a short common screwdriver with a wide-enough blade fit the screw slot, in your kit.

Usually, case portions left in the chamber will only need a slight tug, and they will fall out easily - no fuss/no muss/E-Z-Peazy.


And, speaking of BTW


http://s19.postimg.org/3zpgnfzoj/Reloads_2.jpg



IIRC, Henry CF lever action rifles have been issued a factory warning about shooting the aluminum case ammo (CCI Blazer), due to ejection problems.



.

[DougGuy]

So.. What causes this case failure in the BB anyway? Chamber very generous on dimensions?

[DoctorBill]

pietro - OK about the bolt. Different strokes for different folks.
I am supposing you won't want a free sample of my device, then.
I personally wouldn't want to do that bolt thing in the field.
I lose small screws like that on my workroom floor, let alone on
a gravel or grassy field. Best take a strong magnet along....

As to the Aluminum CCI ammo - the guy who sold me the Henry included
about 20 of them. Have not had any grief from the several I shot at the range.
Once gone, I intend to shoot only my reloads - Starline and Magtech Brass
and the brass laying around at the pistol range.

DougGuy - I don't know about just Henry BB's making cases split !
My 'Cowboy Shooter" friend wouldn't have warned us about Nickel Plated
cases if it were just a Henry Rifle thing.

I have always heard one shouldn't reload Nickel Plated Brass cases, but
I did it anyway- (doh!)....some people have to learn the hard way - lol.

I have about 15 left - I'll pull them apart (Inertial Puller) to salvage the slugs,
although WW cast LEE Mold slugs aren't really worth it (I'm cheap).
Wish I had a .44 Magnum pistol (a wrist breaker) to shoot them up in.

DoctorBill

PS - WHY would Nickel Plated Brass be so easily broken ? Does the
plating process introduce flaws (exposed to ammonia?) ? They look
nice....maybe that is enough to justify them. They don't corrode in
leather bullet belts, either. To each his own.

I will stop gathering any Nickel Plated cases up at the range.

[John in WYO]

.50 cal brush on an angled (bent) pistol Rod, insert it from the chamber side and pull it right back out.
.45 cal brush on a separated .243 case worked for me when I had that problem.

[DoctorBill]

By the Way --- Does anyone know WHY there is no response on the
Henry Rifle Forum to inquiries about registering to join it ?!

http://www.henryfirearms.org/henrybb/viewforum.php?f=11

I have clicked on the Board Administrator's link:
info@henryfirearms.org

UPDATE - 5-10-16 7:30 PM PST - WHY - Because the site is defunct (dead).
Owner of site gone ? unknown.....
http://www.henryfirearms.org/henrybb/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=14089

Someone has started up a new Henry Rifle Web Site:
http://www.henryrifleforums.com/

DoctorBill

[superc]

This was a common problem on the early 45-70 Trapdoor rifles. So common Army ordnance used to issue a hand held tool with the rifle to deal with it while fighting hostile forces. It was called a split case extractor. I haven't seen one in decades, but then I never owned a Trapdoor, so I haven't been looking for them. Numrich and Sarco used to carry them.

That said, an aquaintance gave me a few hundred well used 44 magnum cases (reloaded and fired so often most of the writing on their case heads had been blurred away) for a project I have ongoing. Sadly I have had about 20 of them split in a crimping die when I crimp heeled bullets in them. Sure the first few times I simply disassembled the die then pushed the split piece out from the top. Suffice to say I got tired of doing that. My solution was to dig out an old steel dental pick, heat it to bend an L in the middle, and just use that to fish the split end out. It has worked just fine the last 5 or 6 times a case sticks in the crimper and splits. Much faster than die disassembly.

[winelover]

So.. What causes this case failure in the BB anyway? Chamber very generous on dimensions?

In my case it was from using brass that was reloaded numerous times (more than twenty) and I ignored the obvious ring/step that formed at the base. Lesson learned.

Winelover

[ironhead7544]

You can remove the split case by running a soft lead bullet down the bore. Use a steel rod.

There are also commercial 44 Magnum split case removers. Goes in like a cartridge and easily removes the piece. Had that problem with one on my microgroove 1894 carbines.

[Smoke4320]

I vote for "Doctor Bill split case remover"
Simple, effective, and kind of catchy

[Blackwater]

The first thing I'd want to know was WHY the cases split in the first place. You did a great job of dealing with it yourself, but something is out of kilter somewhere, I'd think. It's possible that it might have been a brass problem, but usually, when the whole case head breaks off, it's excessive headspace, at least from what I've seen. What happens is that when the ctg. is fired, the sides of the case expand out and grip the inner surface of the chamber, whle the pressure pushes the case head back, thus stretching and thinning the case walls. After a few firings, the case simply splits the head off, leaving the front portion in the chamber. I'd have headspace checked, pronto, because headspace never closes up. Might possibly open a few thousandths, but it'll never do anything but get worse. If your loads were max to near max, this is where I'd start my investigation, anyway. Hope you get it worked out so it quits that. Nasty habit for a gun to have.

[Duckiller]

Spring hooks are available at gun shows. Try the vendors who sell all sorts of cheap tools. While not of the highest quality their tools do work for small jobs .

[runfiverun]

I'm with blackwater.
something is wrong.
I have never even thought about a tool of this type [sept maybe for a 303 Brit]
I have split a nickel case or two longitudinally but ain't ever had a separation like that in any of my lever guns.

[country gent]

I have used the case removers for 308 in the M1A ( when a case head comes off and the action tried to slam the next round in they are tight. Its a case length tool with a tapered end and a collet that slides thru thr case neck closly. The base slides under the extractor and into the neck when the handle is pulled the collet opens catching the case mouth and pulls it out. I have also used a over sized cleaning brush to pull them. A 45 cal rilfe brush from the muzzle should grab the case and push it out. I have had better results with the over sized brush than a tight patch jag combo. A little twist when the brush enter the case helps to free it also.

[freedom475]

Just drive a pure lead .440 Round ball down the barrel and you are done!. I keep .457 RB's everywhere that I might have my 45-70 or 45-90..:Fire: