Best All Around Chainsaw Size

[jonp]

I've always thought that a 50-55cc saw was the best for the majority of users. Small enough to handle but big enough to cut most of what the non-professional would take on. Something like a Jonsered 2253 or Husky 346xp/55. I keep a smaller 41cc on hand for limbing and stuff but when I moved south I figured I would not be cutting much wood anymore so gave my Jonsered 2253 to a friend to use. He took that to mean "give" and sold it to someone else. I've been looking at several used saws and on a whim just bought a Chinese 50CC brand new for $89. Yeah, I expect to get an $89 saw but its just an experiment.

Anyways, I'm looking at ebay and see a bunch of saws. What size does eveyone think would be about right for the average person? I have experience cutting pulp and firewood so I'm looking at a professional model that runs a little faster. 50cc class? 60cc? Just wondering on size not specific brand but everyone can chime in with their favorite saw if they want. I know I don't need or want a saw on the order of a Stihl MS 880 although I might use it for a portable sawmill at some point on occasion.

[kenyerian]

The Stihl Farm Boss has suited me fine so I would say you are correct in the 50cc class being a good average saw.

[OS OK]

"Good enough for my Great,Great,Great Grumpa…Good enough for me! Stihl runs on Whale Oil…"

167759

[Vann]

I have 2 Stihl 029 Farmboss saws that I use around the house for everyday use. When my father in law was living, I helped out with logging sometimes. The smallest saw we used was a 036 the biggest was a 088. He considered the 036 to be the smallest saw usable for heavy cutting, I was cutting pulp wood with my old Husky 55 and he was impressed with it. I know a lot of pulpwood cutters that wouldn't use anything but a Husky 55, I think it was mainly due to how cheap they where and their power to weight ratio.

[NY_Treeguy]

50-55cc is just right for an "in between" saw.

Stihl 261 or 291. 261 is much better built and a true pro saw. Husky 545 or 550XP. If you are looking for pro-owned, the Husky 353 is a great value. Sadly, no longer made. I have had one for 10+ years and it still runs great. Plenty of power and light. Gets things done that don't require a "big" saw.

We run 4 basic saw sizes. Climbing saws (toppers) in the 35-40cc range, small ground saw/big climbing saw in the 50-55cc range, ground saws in the 75-80cc range, and BIG saws 90cc+.

[garym1a2]

I always wanted the pro saw ms260. I have farm bosses in ms310 and ms390 and they are good saws though the 390 is on the heavy side and hard to start.

[w5pv]

I have an Echo with a 20" bar but still would rather have a Farm Boss 029 for my use.

[crowbuster]

Good advice here jonp, I have several stihls, love em all. And what left over whale oil I have I just burn in my lamps.

[prestonj12]

20 inch Echo has been the perfect all purpose saw for me.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Blackwater]

I have a small 16" blade Stihl that's been very good to me. Here in the south, we have some really big trees that occasionally need to be cut. Having too small a saw makes that a lot more difficult, and even more dangerous. I helped a farmer friend cut a huge cherry tree once that was nearly 4' dia. at chest height. THAT was a ticklish job! Luckily, he had a bow chain saw, and knew his way around a saw and a tree. I got the stump, thinking to make some great stocks out of it, but the pressure was too great and it checked so bad it nearly turned to dust! I've long rued not knowing better how to have handled that great piece of wood.

Many people get seriously hurt and maimed each year by chain saws, and I've been around enough loggers that I've learned a great respect for chain saws. Every logger you ever talk to will have multiple stories where ONLY their knowledge and foresight kept them from being seriously injured or killed by them, so I give them a lot of respect, and use mine gingerly or not at all. You really have to know when to cut from the top down or the bottom upwards, for one thing. How you stand when using it can make or break your "luck," also. Skill with a chain saw is mostly gotten through experience, but even then, it takes a powerful lot of good advice, and the memory to apply it, to stay safe when using one, so whatever you get, learn to use it BEFORE you crank it up the first time, and if you know any loggers, or can find one willing to instruct you and teach you safety with it, you'll be VERY wise to heed what they tell you.

Other than that, from what I've seen as a non-professional user, it's longevity of use that makeus the biggest difference. My Stihl is over 30 years old and still going strong, though it now needs some parts replaced.

As the chief said on Hill St. Blues, "Be careful out there" whatever you choose. In my neck of the woods, McCulloughs have been very popular, and I paid a little more for my Stihl, but it's sure been a good one with regard to longevity. The pros tend to like Husquavarnas, primarily, but some have other preferences. Eventually, it gets to be a Ford/Chevy type thing, but Stihl, 30 years ago, had the best reputation for longevity, and I've cut some pretty big trees with mine. None as big as that old cherry cited above, but not too far from it, eihter. Just be VERY careful with it and LEARN how to use it safely. That blade cuts whatever it touches instantly. AND keep the teeth sharp.

[quilbilly]

I have a 2 year old Stihl Farm Boss and it just made short work (cutting anyway) of a 30" downed Douglas fir but I had one of the small Stihl's (the $179 model) for years and it was excellent as well on trees up to 20". I had heard those small Stihl's were only designed to last 50 hours but I got a lot more than that. The little one with that short bar actually cut up the big red cedar (36") that I had custom milled into full dimension lumber to build the decks around the house.

[quietmike]

You couldn't buy my Stihl 361 from me at double the price I paid for it.
Well over ten years of use and not a single problem.

Very stout saw with enough weight that it doesn't shake you to death.

Best saw I've ever handled by a long shot.

[snowwolfe]

When I was looking last year asked the same question as I needed a bigger saw. Ended up buying a Stihl 441 C M with a 25 inch bar. Little more money than I wanted to spend but we have a pretty big dealer in town with some people dedicated to servicing what they sell. The saw has electronic ignition and no choke. Blown away by how easy it is to start. One short pull with my weak arm and it fires right up and idles smoothly. Even after it sits for a month or two it always starts by the 2nd pull. This thing will rip through a 18-20 inch log so fast it will make your head spin. Well worth what it cost.

[Mk42gunner]

"Good enough for my Great,Great,Great Grumpa…Good enough for me! Stihl runs on Whale Oil…"

167759

That looks very similar to the gear reduction David Bradley that I first used when we started burning wood in the mid seventies. After one winter of using the old behemoth, Dad went to Sears and bought a 14" rebadged Echo. Good little saw.

When Dad started logging he used a Husqvarna 61, which I still have; but it is a little bit large for cutting up windblown limbs, plus the oil pump quit working. I have a new Husky 345 40cc that does most of my required work along with a 455 Rancher that I bought (cheaply) at an auction.

Robert

[osteodoc08]

You'll get as much opinion on here about saw brands as Ford v. Chevy.

I agree the 50cc saws are a good all around saw. It just depends on how much you want to spend. The homeowner vs pro grade saws are very different.

If you're looking to spend under $100, well, I really can't suggest anything. Chainsaws are one of those things that you get what you pay for.

if looking for a homeowner grade saw, I'd recommend Stihl, Husky, Echo in no particular order. Pro saws are Stihl or Husky.

[winchester85]

i used to make my living with a saw. i have run husky and stihl, but hands down i prefer the stihl.
but, the farm boss 029, is not a good saw from my experience. i never owned one, but people i knew did and i used them on occassion.
the 036, or 361 is the smallest saw i use, i had an 026 but i gave it to a buddy. my 036 is power ported and will run with much larger unmodified saws, but is still light enough to carry and cut all day.

all of my saws are older versions that i can tune the carbs, even when its a newer saw, i change the carb out to an older fully adjustable model. makes a huge difference being able to tune it.

[Greg S]

The 026 is a nice limbing saw. If you can find a pro grab it. I think a 36 would be perfect for me now. The 44 can handle alot and ain't to bad for limbing and has plenty of power. My 66 needs to go after leaving Oregon. Too much saw.

[Lloyd Smale]

I'm with blackwater. I have a couple big stihls and also have a small one with a 16 inch bar. It is usually the one I grap. Its with me in the jeep when I need to cut a tree across the road. Its with me at camp when I find some downed trees to make firewood for camp with. Would I want it to go out and cut for a living again? NOPE but it works great for 75 percent of what I want a saw for and in a pinch would work for a 100 percent of it
I have a small 16" blade Stihl that's been very good to me. Here in the south, we have some really big trees that occasionally need to be cut. Having too small a saw makes that a lot more difficult, and even more dangerous. I helped a farmer friend cut a huge cherry tree once that was nearly 4' dia. at chest height. THAT was a ticklish job! Luckily, he had a bow chain saw, and knew his way around a saw and a tree. I got the stump, thinking to make some great stocks out of it, but the pressure was too great and it checked so bad it nearly turned to dust! I've long rued not knowing better how to have handled that great piece of wood.

Many people get seriously hurt and maimed each year by chain saws, and I've been around enough loggers that I've learned a great respect for chain saws. Every logger you ever talk to will have multiple stories where ONLY their knowledge and foresight kept them from being seriously injured or killed by them, so I give them a lot of respect, and use mine gingerly or not at all. You really have to know when to cut from the top down or the bottom upwards, for one thing. How you stand when using it can make or break your "luck," also. Skill with a chain saw is mostly gotten through experience, but even then, it takes a powerful lot of good advice, and the memory to apply it, to stay safe when using one, so whatever you get, learn to use it BEFORE you crank it up the first time, and if you know any loggers, or can find one willing to instruct you and teach you safety with it, you'll be VERY wise to heed what they tell you.

Other than that, from what I've seen as a non-professional user, it's longevity of use that makeus the biggest difference. My Stihl is over 30 years old and still going strong, though it now needs some parts replaced.

As the chief said on Hill St. Blues, "Be careful out there" whatever you choose. In my neck of the woods, McCulloughs have been very popular, and I paid a little more for my Stihl, but it's sure been a good one with regard to longevity. The pros tend to like Husquavarnas, primarily, but some have other preferences. Eventually, it gets to be a Ford/Chevy type thing, but Stihl, 30 years ago, had the best reputation for longevity, and I've cut some pretty big trees with mine. None as big as that old cherry cited above, but not too far from it, eihter. Just be VERY careful with it and LEARN how to use it safely. That blade cuts whatever it touches instantly. AND keep the teeth sharp.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I suppose 50cc would be OK.

I cut firewood mostly just for myself, and I wouldn't be without my Stihl MS360 Pro (61.5cc).
here is a photo of what was left from a large (standing dead) white Oak...cutting old dried out Oak can be tough, but that Stihl with 20" bar got it done.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/bigstumpwithStihlcloseupreduced400x300.jpg

[Hogtamer]

I've found the perfect saw is whichever my son feels like using! But yeah, can't beat a Stihl.

[quilbilly]

I saw an ad on TV a couple days ago for $20 off that little cheap Stihl which would put it at about $160. I am thinking that, while the bigger saw with more horsepower is great for the big projects, that little saw (same as I used to have) came in mighty handy at times after storms and didn't take up much space in the truck. Nothing wrong with having the right tool for the job. Can't have just one gun either.

[longranger]

32 years in the Fire Service and Sthil's are the rule pretty much across the country with the 036 being the most popular.Put a bullet chain on one and cut through any type of roofing material,metal doors. 90% of the time fire up with a single pull on a well maintained saw.I use a Stihl 032 at home and have very nice 50cc 20" Solo that is the finest chainsaw I have ever used.

[Petrol & Powder]

Another Stihl fan here.
I don't cut as much as I did in the past but I've been impressed with the Stihl models. The Stihl MS290 has been discontinued but it's a great saw. 18" bar and a sharp semi-chisel chain will get the job done. The 290 has a 56 cc engine and the 291 is close (55 ? )
I ran a 026 for many years and even with the slightly smaller engine it performed well. Ethanol gasoline killed it before it was worn out, otherwise I'd still have it.

I agree, 50-55 cc and a 18 bar will do a lot. They are sort of the 4" S&W model 65's of chain saws.

[slam45]

i spent over 20 years cutting logs here in Oregon with stihl and husky power saws... they were all over 100cc and we would get them ported & polished and run them on airplane gas... fun times never to come again......inexpensive small motors from Echo are worth a look for a wood saw...

[Geezer in NH]

My 25+ year old Stihl 036 with an 18 inch bar still working great! At 64 years old and severe arthritis I hate the thing but the 28 year old son has no problem with it.

We do not burn wood for heat but sell wood from the stand and make a lot from it. We sell for the weekenders and romantics at about $6.99 per 3/4 square foot. [note: that's $800 plus per cord] Cheaper than the supermarket and convenience stores in the state.

[labradigger1]

Husky 365 and 372xp are my favorites of all my saws. Plenty of power with any bar length and not terrible on fuel

[trails4u]

Hard to argue with labradigger...I do love the 372xp (at work). However...for a home saw, I think something in the 60cc range is perfect, for me. I bought a Husky 359 (no longer made) several years ago, as I was a few bills short of affording the 372 at the time. Put an aftermarket carb on in, opened up the muffler a bit, and it has served me well. Light enough to limb with and saw small stuff all day, but also enough hp to fell bigger wood. We heat with wood...so it gets a workout, year-round. I've been impressed.....particularly for a landowner grade saw in the $5bill range.

[FergusonTO35]

Thought I would revisit this thread as I am about to add a saw to my fleet. We moved to a new place where the trees are bigger and more numerous. My Echo CS-400 will handle anything I throw at it but it really gets overmatched by logs above 12", especially the really hard stuff like Hedgeapple. I'm a cheapskate and have been keeping an eye on pawn shops and Fleabay for awhile. I'm an Echo guy but their bigger late model saws just don't come around very often and I'm really not in the mood to fool with one 30+ years old. Same for the good old American saws like the Homelite Super XL and Mac 10-10, I have too many project machines already and want something newer with a minimum of fuss.

Larger Stihl and Husky saws usually go for more than I want to spend and too often they are tired ex-tree service machines. Hey, I'm a cheapskate and proud of it, it's the biggest reason I reload and cast! Found a German made Dolmar 5105 made in 2011 in nice shape on Fleabay for $230.00 buy it now. Made a deal for $190.00+shipping and it's due to be delivered today. I'm pretty stoked about it. The 5105 is a true pro line saw, competitive with the Stihl 260/261 and Husky 346/550. It has 50cc and rated at 3.9 HP, many people report that it is actually stronger in stock form than it's competitors. The saw has a 20" bar and fairly new looking chain. I hope it's set up for 3/8 pitch but if not then no big deal.

From what I have read, Dolmar invented the gas powered chainsaw back in 1927 whereas Stihl invented the electric chainsaw the year before. There are a few nice Dolmar 50cc saws on Fleabay right now priced around $250.00. Dolmar doesn't have nearly the name recognition as Stihl and Husky so there isn't much competition among buyers. I'm glad, because an equivalent saw from one of those marques in good condition would be over $400.00 easily. Will report on how it does, there is a fallen limb next to my driveway waiting for it!

[jonp]

I almost pulled the trigger on a sachs dolmar i saw on ebay a few months ago. Id looked at them a number of years ago at a dealer up north and was impressed but you dont see many around.
I ended up with the chinese saw for kicks and so far it runs fine. Im thinking of taking it to my hunting camp and leaving it in the shed. If its stolen im out $90.
Ill probably end up with another jonsered but a husky or stihl would be fine. Pro models bought in a saw shop or online not the box store variety

[MT Gianni]

Location determines bar length and bar length determines saw size. In MT even on the dry side a 28" bar is minimal for a cutting saw, 16" for a trimmer.

[starnbar]

I used my dads stihl until it was wore out got a husky about 20 years ago still using it don't cut a lot of firewood just cleaning out around the boat house and keeping the cabbage palms out of the boat slip edges.

[sawinredneck]

I've got a Dolmar 5100s, old version of the 5105. They are a lot stronger than most competing saws, then with a little port work they really scream! I've got a 16" and 20" bar in 3/8" pitch on mine, cuts Oak and Hedge just find!
If you are looking for a steal of a deal get in good with the Home Depot rental guys and find out when they'll be selling their used rental saws. Yes, they will be used and abused, but they can be bought cheap then for around $100 you can buy an after market big bore cylinder and piston kit. Not hard to do, I promise, and you can do a little port work and open up the muffler to get even more out of it!

[FergusonTO35]

I don't doubt it at all. The only supertune I'm planning for it is to eventually put the non-catalyst 5100 muffler on it. Not so much for extra performance as longevity, the cat creates alot of extra heat right next to the cylinder. I'm also going to remove the carb adjustment limiters so it can be tuned properly.

Obligatory Fleabay pic:

198079

[funnyjim014]

+1 on the farmboss. Great all around saw for the money. Next step up was a big step into a professional line unit

[DanWalker]

I spend the extra money for the premixed ethanol free fuel. Makes my little saw act like it is a much bigger saw than it is, and turns my 64cc husky into a beast.

[labradigger1]

I have an old pioneer p41,
Still 014
Husky 51
Husky 365
Husky 365sp
Husky 372xp
9 out of 10 times I grab the 365's. Good power to weight ratio and not as hard on fuel as the 372.
62-66 cc's seem to be my all around sweet spot.

[Bzcraig]

My Stihl 026 with 20" bar has never failed and still going strong after 27 years.

[FergusonTO35]

The Little Brown Santa Claus dropped off the 5105 today and I unpacked it and checked all the essentials. It has a Dolmar bar and a fairly aggressive 3/8" pitch Carlton chain with a lot of life left, unfortunately dull as dull can be so I will have to sharpen it before I can test drive for real. Unfortunately, the carb adjustment screws are glued in place pretty firmly, I'll have to get creative about fixing that. Pulled the plug and it looks like it has been running a little rich if anything so mebbe I don't need to worry about that right now. The air filter has a bit of dust on it, nothing major. Not a lot of dust in all the books and crannies either. Overall I don't think the saw has been used a whole lot.

Filled up the gas and oil and she fired up no problem. This saw sounds and feels like my Echo CS-400 after spending some time at the gym, a good thing I think. It wants to rev to the moon when you squeeze the trigger, which I have read is the norm for Dolmars. Hopefully I can get it sharpened and put it in some wood soon. Here it is on my Ford Ranger after getting unpacked:

198089

[Lloyd Smale]

I'm a stihl fan through and through but we have a sachs dolamar at camp. I got it free at work when we switched over to all stihl saws. It was carried in a meter truck for storm work and was about like new. 20 years later that saw still is running great. Everyone at camp uses it and some barely know how to start a saw. Its done most of the firewood cutting for camp for that 20 years. That thing is a real powerhouse compared to the newer saws ive used. A bit heavy but it sure has a REAL motor.

[CIC]

I have a husquvarna 450 and that has been great saw. Plenty of power for any task I have thron at it. It really but it to work the last two years. I be 5 dump truck loads of wood delivered from a tree trimming outfit. This was all the big butt logs that no one else wanted because they were too big. I had to make 2-3 cuts to get through most of it. Year before that I cut up a huge ash and hickory. Those two trees provided an entire years worth of fire wood. I like my saw.

[Rick Hodges]

I have two Husky's...the old 16" 136 is the one that gets used 99% of the time. It is light and handy. The bigger say when needed but....for most use I like the little saw.

[FergusonTO35]

Actually, the saw I have put the most hours on is my little Walmart Poulan 2150. A better chain and a carb adjustment made it a surprisingly capable saw for what little I paid for it. It is actually the only saw I have ever purchased new.

[FergusonTO35]

Ordered some extra fuel and air filters and a non-catalyst muffler for the Dolmar today. I won't install the muffler until I get an adjustable carb though, don't want to risk over-scavenging the cylinder. The few Dolmar dealers we have around here close around the time I leave work, so I ordered them from Jack's Small Engines of Maryland. They have the best selection of Dolmar parts I have seen as well as everything small engine you could ever need. Their prices and shipping are very reasonable too: www.jackssmallengines.com.

[Blanket]

I think to many folks make to much out of what is the best saw. Been cutting wood to heat with for 40 years. Have had several brands. Currently have 1 Stihl , 2 Huskys and a Poulan. .

[FergusonTO35]

I think to many folks make to much out of what is the best saw. Been cutting wood to heat with for 40 years. Have had several brands. Currently have 1 Stihl , 2 Huskys and a Poulan. .

Like Ford vs. Chevy and Yankees vs. Red Sox it will never end because people enjoy it too much. I have a Dolmar, two Echoes, a Poulan, and a Mac and like them all for different purposes. Of course, they all have good chains and carbs tuned properly which can make or break a saw.

I've figgered out that the correct carb for the 5105 is the Zama C1Q-DM13B. Dolmar wants $106.00 for it, you can buy it as just a plain Zama carb for half that so I'll order one when I get around to it. I gave the chain a good sharpening and filed the rakers to .025 as per the manual. Gave the saw a test drive on some 12" logs this morning just to see how it does. In short, this saw rocks! It makes a pile of nice curly shavings in a hurry with a very smooth kerf. I also noticed that it has a bit of four cycle sound in the cut so maybe the original carb is actually set right. The spark did have a nice coffee brown color when I looked at it. Hopefully I can give it some more exercise soon.

[jonp]

Stihl's use Zama Carbs. I delivered weekly to a warehouse in VA Beach that had pallets of them.

[jonp]

I think to many folks make to much out of what is the best saw. Been cutting wood to heat with for 40 years. Have had several brands. Currently have 1 Stihl , 2 Huskys and a Poulan. .

True although some are better than others. Would I try to earn a living with my Chinese $90 Chainsaw or a Husky 372XP? I like Jonsereds but i get a kick out of people that say "I'd never buy one of those, I'm a Husky Man"! Umm..same saw, guys. In fact you can swap parts and cases.

If we get down to it Stihl, Jonsered, Husqvarna, Echo, Dolmar all make good saws. Tanaka, Makita, Hitachi, Poulan etc make saws good enough for the majority of homeowners to cut the occasional tree branch.

[sawinredneck]

Makita owns Dolmar, Dolmar makes Makita saws, that's why I suggested watching the HD rental sales. They used to be Dolmar 6400's, not sure what they are now.
Tanaka is owned by Redmax now.
Shindiawa is owned by Echo now.
It's hard to keep up anymore!

[Blanket]

True although some are better than others. Would I try to earn a living with my Chinese $90 Chainsaw or a Husky 372XP? I like Jonsereds but i get a kick out of people that say "I'd never buy one of those, I'm a Husky Man"! Umm..same saw, guys. In fact you can swap parts and cases.

If we get down to it Stihl, Jonsered, Husqvarna, Echo, Dolmar all make good saws. Tanaka, Makita, Hitachi, Poulan etc make saws good enough for the majority of homeowners to cut the occasional tree branch.True but if your making your living with a saw doubt you would ask for advice on what to buy

[Blanket]

Elaborate a little more. If you are cutting a lot get a saw with .375 raker or skip tooth chain, depending on hard or soft wood and enough hp to pull it with your bar length. Husky or Stihl. If you are trimming and homeowner use get a .325 chain 14-16 inch saw, low kick back chain saw

[sawinredneck]

Elaborate a little more. If you are cutting a lot get a saw with .375 raker or skip tooth chain, depending on hard or soft wood and enough hp to pull it with your bar length. Husky or Stihl. If you are trimming and homeowner use get a .325 chain 14-16 inch saw, low kick back chain saw
With that size saw and HP, I wouldn't even consider .325 chain, I'd look at 1/4 or "Pico" chain. I know Stihl makes it for their smaller saws and it makes up for the lower hp.

[DerekP Houston]

my lil 16" poulan is still chugging along like a champ. No idea how long my grandpa had it before he gave it to me, I've been through 3 new chains on it so far. I ain't the best at maintenance but I keep the oil full and clean it off when done. It was slow going, but I've cut up to 12" live oak limbs off with it and that's as large as I'll attempt.

[FergusonTO35]

Even among "low kickback" chains not all are created equal. Some of the better ones actually cut faster and smoother than chisel chains on a small cc saw. I remember my Poulan came with an absolutely horrid chain. It was a skip tooth chain with seriously like 3 rakers for each cutter! Honestly I think that thing would be more dangerous than a pro chain because you had to push it into the cut to get it to bite, when it got dull it would catch the wood and jerk the saw backwards or forwards.

I run the better Oregon low kickback chain on my Poulan, mini Mac, and top handle Echo and they cut just fine. My Echo CS-400 runs Oregon Long Top chisel chain. It cuts about as fast as quality low kickback chain but makes bigger chips, which keeps the clutch cover and airfilter keep from clogging up so fast.

[ascast]

I've found the perfect saw is whichever my son feels like using! But yeah, can't beat a Stihl.

ha ha like best tractor red or green -- which one can you get running today? LOL

About 1980 I bought an 041 Farmboss new to upgrade from the old Mac 30. A few years ago I had an oiler issue which I got fixed. Otherwise it has never given me any trouble. I have never looked back; and have since picked a few more old 041's. I use a 20" bar and cut 15-30 face per year. And a lot of big trees. That size is good for general work. It will handle a 4' bar if you need to on occasion, but slow. It is a bit much for limbing, will use a lot of gas. Will also work for rough lumber. I got one of those bolt on guide that fit on a 2x6. We got some good timbers, ruined one chain- don't over tighten the mounting bolts. It's slow going but will work OK. We made 4"x8"x 16 ft for hay wagon mains. 041 is in the 50 cc range but can go p to 65cc or so. be careful

[jonp]

" I got one of those bolt on guide that fit on a 2x6. We got some good timbers, ruined one chain- don't over tighten the mounting bolts. It's slow going but will work OK. We made 4"x8"x 16 ft for hay wagon mains. 041 is in the 50 cc range but can go p to 65cc or so. be careful"

I have one of those and they work good but the key is a narrow kerf chain.

[blackthorn]

I have a book called "Chainsaw Lumber Making" by Will Malloff. It contains pretty much all you need to know about making lumber out of raw logs. It has plans for building your own "Mill". We (my boys and I) made two units out of salvaged material from the local junkyard. They work really well.

[FergusonTO35]

The tachometer attachment for my multimeter bit the dust a long time ago and since then I have tuned two strokes by ear. Decided to finally move in to the twenty first century and ordered me an actual stand alone tachometer, an Electronic Specialties EZ Tach 328. Gonna use it to get all my oil burners set up right. At WOT, about 250-500 rpm under the published spec should work well.

[54bore]

100+ CC or go home! Nah, the average home owner don't need anything over 50cc, falling timber for a living I run a Stihl 660, its good in anything. I grind my chains Square (Chisel) on a Silvey Pro Sharp, i can get through a 2 foot bull pine in 30 seconds or so

Back in my dad's Day when you NEEDED 100+CC Saws, this was a Husqvarna 2100
198541

[sawinredneck]

100+ CC or go home! Nah, the average home owner don't need anything over 50cc, falling timber for a living I run a Stihl 660, its good in anything. I grind my chains Square (Chisel) on a Silvey Pro Sharp, i can get through a 2 foot bull pine in 30 seconds or so

Back in my dad's Day when you NEEDED 100+CC Saws, this was a Husqvarna 2100
198541

Been a while and I don't frequent the place anymore, but I remember you from AS. "Oldsaw" is running around here as "cheapshot".

[osteodoc08]

AS is definitely the place to go for saw stuff. Love that site

Best size for homeowner? 50cc class.

[FergusonTO35]

A well made 50cc with a 20" bar is just right for my "big" saw. It'll handle anything on my property no problem, of course some trees will be slower than others. Yes, I could get all my cutting needs done with only my Echo CS-400 but what fun is that? Like trying to do all your hunting with just one gun!

[Smoke4320]

A strong motor and a 20" bar will do 80% of what I need
Prefer Stihl myself

[Sur-shot]

Some time ago I decided to stop buying box store equipment and went to stuff that lasts and stuff you do not throw away, you get it fixed. I also get tired of the "it is almost as good as." I own a tree farm and have hardwoods and pines that are of some size. I got rid of the other saws and bought a Farm Boss, it can be a bit heavy, but you do not need to hold it too long either. With a FEL on my tractor with a root rake attached, I can pick up about 4,000 lbs with it and move it to the burn pile, where I make short work of the horizontal long trunks and large limbs. I also have a Sthil trim saw on a power head with an extension tube (pole saw), very handy for cutting overhanging or broken limbs. That Sthil power head with multiple attachments makes a PU truck load of equipment. Orange tractors, orange saws and orange gas power tools work good for me.
Ed

[FergusonTO35]

Hmm, you like 'em orange. So, are you a Kubota or Allis-Chalmers guy?

[jonp]

He has the Chinese "Kabata". It's just as good as a Kubota

[FergusonTO35]

He has the Chinese "Kabata". It's just as good as a Kubota

Them's fightin' words to my ears!!

[Geezer in NH]

Don't let the old Stihl ads all those selling service the saws. They are selling them in big hardware stores who do not service them. They sold out to sell at any reason or cost only profits count.

[FergusonTO35]

As far as I can tell, all the Stihl dealers here also offer service, however some put more effort into it than others. In any event I doubt I will be buying one soon as I am really happy with the Dolmar 5105 so far.

While looking for carburetor info I stumbled onto the correct Zama adjustable carburetor for only $38.00 brand new with free shipping from a place called Mitty Supply in Georgia. Went ahead and ordered it, and the carb showed up two days later. Examining it, I see something interesting. The carb has limiter caps on the hi and low adjustment screws as expected, however they don't do anything. You can adjust 'em lean or rich to your heart's content as it should be. Way to go Zama! Soon as my tach shows up I'll give it a try.

Another thing: you can easily find OEM Dolmar repair manuals online. I found one for the 5105 and printed it.

[jonp]

I still have not had a saw that out cut my Jonsered 2253. Great weight for cutting and limbing.

[kfd518]

Stihl 026 ms 261 for general small stuff both wear 16's ms361 and 362 mtronic with 18's one 25 " in the cutting bag. 048 with 25" and 075 with 42" for milling. Mostly live oak and mesquite. Of these the 026 and 361 see the most use. For most folks 50 cc class is plenty and will more than do the work. Fresh fuel mix is the key preferably without ethanol if you can get it where you are.

[FergusonTO35]

I've been using E10 with fuel stabilizer in all my yard and farm machines for years now with great results. I use stabilizer year round and do not run it dry at the end of the year. The only time I have to do anything for the fuel system is change the filter every so often and replace carb parts that are just worn out. Alcohol is a good motor fuel but needs stabilizer for sure. Honestly, I would rather have E10 with stabilizer than straight dino gas without.

[Blanket]

I've been using E10 with fuel stabilizer in all my yard and farm machines for years now with great results. I use stabilizer year round and do not run it dry at the end of the year. The only time I have to do anything for the fuel system is change the filter every so often and replace carb parts that are just worn out. Alcohol is a good motor fuel but needs stabilizer for sure. Honestly, I would rather have E10 with stabilizer than straight dino gas without. Tell us how it works out when you burn a hole in the top of a piston when the E10 goes to E30 because of the tank or separation , fuel hoses and gaskets dissolving , and with 2 strokes oil not mixing right

[jonp]

Tell us how it works out when you burn a hole in the top of a piston when the E10 goes to E30 because of the tank or separation , fuel hoses and gaskets dissolving , and with 2 strokes oil not mixing right

I've not heard that E10 will seperate and become a higher concetrate. Where did you hear/read/see this information?
I use Lucas Fuel Stabilizer/Ethonol Buster in my gas.

[FergusonTO35]

Tell us how it works out when you burn a hole in the top of a piston when the E10 goes to E30 because of the tank or separation , fuel hoses and gaskets dissolving , and with 2 strokes oil not mixing right

I will, however you may be waiting a long time. On the other hand, I remember many people back in the days of "pure" gas who were buying new mowers and weedeaters every other year or so due to gummed up fuel systems and they figured the machine was just worn out so they bought a new one. Got a lot of nice machines with low miles for pocket change or free that way. I gave the princely sum of $8.00 for a barely used early 2000's Echo GT-200R weedeater from a co-worker. It hadn't been used in ten years and the fuel lines had crumbled to dust. New lines and filter, clean out solidified fuel/oil from the carb and she runs better than new.

Burning a piston is 99.99% of the time caused by running too lean. I tune all my carbs to be a bit rich at WOT. In my 2 strokes I run synthetic oil mixed 36:1 with a healthy dose of stabilizer. I believe the extra oil provides more of a cushion for the moving parts and cools down the combustion temperature a bit. I have been doing this protocol for well over a decade in a huge variety of machines with much better results than straight dino gas.

[kfd518]

Well ethanol separation is a two fold thing. The E concentrate doesn't rise but when it falls out of suspension as the fuel can heats and cools, it is hygroscopic absorbing water in the air around it. If using ethanol and. Or draining it's actually best to leave the tank as full as possible. This water in turn will over Tim corrode the inside of a carb. The ethanol in itself attacks rubber lines and diaphragms. I'm not saying ethanol is the devil or that good stabilizers won't help prolong the life of the fuel mix. But E free is best if it can be gotten. This separation reduces the octane rating of the fuel. The other issue is the 50:1 mix most companies recommend these days should truly be increased by the user to 40:1 and the carb re-tuned accordingly.

If thank is not a problem I would like someone to tell me why it is that many fire departments are turning to ethanol free fuel in their front line small engine equipment ( chainsaws, K saws, hydraulic power unit for jaws of life, ventilation fans). After doing trials in house and noting a reduced maintenance cost and down time with ethanol free fuel.

A paper outlining the phase separation process investigated by a petroleum product company.

http://nationalpetroleum.net/Ethanol-Water-Phase-Separation-facts.pdf

[FergusonTO35]

If thank is not a problem I would like someone to tell me why it is that many fire departments are turning to ethanol free fuel in their front line small engine equipment ( chainsaws, K saws, hydraulic power unit for jaws of life, ventilation fans). After doing trials in house and noting a reduced maintenance cost and down time with ethanol free fuel.


Same reason most PD's use Glock. Most firefighters are not mechanics nor do they necessarily tinker with small engines for a hobby. They also don't personally own those pieces of equipment, so as long as it works they don't think about it. So, it makes sense to use straight dino gas in order to remove one more potential problem from the equation. Eons ago, gas powered fire trucks had redundant ignition systems for the same reason.

Don't get me wrong, if I had the choice of E10 or dino gas for nearly the same price I would go with dino. I would still use stabilizer and add extra oil for 2 strokes. That said, my fuel stabilizer regimen has served me well for years and I've never had a problem I could attribute to ethanol. Also, ethanol has always been in at least some of our gas for decades. Even in the days of $1.00 a gallon when I was a kid many places still had signs at the pump advising that the gas contained ethanol. I think Ashland (Speedway, Super America) has put ethanol in all their gas since the 70's and they are the largest gas retailer here in Kentucky.

[FergusonTO35]

Fuel stabilizers work based on my experience as well. I prefer straight petroleum gasoline, but as much for other reasons as a phase separation concern. I have used E10 with 2 stroke oil containing stabilizers many times. I have yet to have engine or fuel system damage attributable to E10 in a number of 2 and 4 stroke small engines. My preference is use Stabil's marine fuel treatment but there are likely others as good or possibly even better.

Star Tron is really good, been using that one mostly for a few years now. Only requires a third of an ounce per gallon, I use half an ounce for four strokes and a full ounce for oil burners.

[FergusonTO35]

Well fudge, looks like my Dolmar is on the endangered species list. According to their website, Makita is merging Dolmar into their own brand. I so don't get it. I know Makita is a respected maker of power tools but they ain't fooling anybody, they are not a chainsaw maker and never will be. Just as Dolmar is not a cordless drill maker and never will be. Yes, I know they are still Dolmar saws with a different name but this is just bogus 100%. I mean, Husky has the decency to put the Jonsered name and colors on some of their saws and even give them their own website. Would it really hurt Makita to do the same, even though it's the other way around?

I'll just keep enjoying my 5105 until it bites the dust and I can't rebuild it anymore. Then, I 'spose I'll unhappily buy a Husky or Stihl since they will probably be the only saw makers left by that point.

[Bazoo]

I have a Husvarna 371 XP. Its the largest of their medium saws. Its heavy for limbing, but strong for cutting. Got a 24" bar on mine, at current. I'd like to also have a smaller saw.

[kfd518]

As far as fire men not thinking about the equipment I can say in my department we do think about it it's a life line for us.... if we don't have confidence in that tool starting when we Need it to we won't keep it on the truck. I am also willing to bet you're not representative of 95% of small engine owners out there as far as lack of maintenance and actually caring about your investments. Star tron is a great stabilizer and I use it myself. Doesnt mean I keep my fuel on hand for extended periods of time either I keep about 1qt fuel in my generator and run it out monthly the fuel in my 5 gallon cans gets dumped in the truck monthly and refilled. Yes I can tell the difference in the way it runs on old fuel. Yes most of my fuel is E10 but when I can get it I buy e free and put stabilizer in it as soon as I pump it. I have seen the evidence of E fuels separating and I've also seen the damage water in the bottom of a fuel tank gets sucked up before fuel.... old dumped new put in fresh fuel burns and steams the water.... that does amazing things in internal combustion motors.... by the way the EPA has proven phase separation ( they do state it is likely stale by that time anyways) as well as BP warning of it....

[GaryN]

I bought a 041 Super Stihl in about 1983. It still cuts my firewood every year. I don't use my furnace. I don't use gasoline that contains ethanol in my small motors. It costs a little more per gallon but runs good.

[FergusonTO35]

KFD- I apologize for the poor choice of words. I didn't mean that firefighters literally don't care about whether their equipment works or not. I simply meant that they, like nearly everyone else, aren't small engine nuts like me and so it makes sense to remove one more potential problem they might face.

Yes, I am a weirdo about small engines and proud of it. I'm not a brand snob either, although I am sore about Makita's treatment of Dolmar. The majority of my machines began life in big retailers sold to the consumer market.

[kfd518]

Would have to say the majority of my machines were "burned up" on the shop floor at my local stihl dealer most from lack of maintenance or more likely candidate no oil in the "mix" buy em cheap and put them back together.
GaryN I'm working on one of those right now

[jonp]

Well fudge, looks like my Dolmar is on the endangered species list. According to their website, Makita is merging Dolmar into their own brand. I so don't get it. I know Makita is a respected maker of power tools but they ain't fooling anybody, they are not a chainsaw maker and never will be. Just as Dolmar is not a cordless drill maker and never will be. Yes, I know they are still Dolmar saws with a different name but this is just bogus 100%. I mean, Husky has the decency to put the Jonsered name and colors on some of their saws and even give them their own website. Would it really hurt Makita to do the same, even though it's the other way around?

I'll just keep enjoying my 5105 until it bites the dust and I can't rebuild it anymore. Then, I 'spose I'll unhappily buy a Husky or Stihl since they will probably be the only saw makers left by that point.

The chainsaw industry is consolidating like many others as a way to survive. I doubt Dolmar will stop making saws or Makita will do anything to ruin it. More likely they will keep the same factories, workers and tech and either produce the same saw in both colors for people that just won't buy anything but a Dolmar. Top end saws will be Dolmar and occasional use/homeowner will be Makita. Much like Hitachi and Tanaka. Hitachi wanted to get into gasoline powered small equipment and bought Tanaka because that was cheaper than trying to develop a saw on their own. I almost bought a Hitachi saw as I've had great luck with other Hitachi products but ended up spending much less on a Chinese no name for the occassional use I'd put it through and it works fine for that.

If I was serious about cutting firewood or pulp and needed a saw to depend on it would not be the Chinese one, Hitachi, Tanaka or a box store Husky. It would be the professional line from a saw shop from Echo, Stihl, Husky, Johnsered, Dolmar etc. Take your pick but keep in mind that the saws you buy in Tractor Supply, Menards, Lowes etc are not the top of the line saws from that company. They are homeowner saws which does not make them bad as they are designed for homeowners but are not the top. The Jonsered website is very good at showing the difference. Take a look and compare the homeowner from the full time logging saws. Different specs. Only you can decide if you need to pay the extra price for those features. To cut a few tree limbs and putter around I bought the cheap one, when I was cutting 10 cords of firewood a year and occasional cutting pulp for extra cash I went to a saw shop and got a professional grade Johnsered and paid for it.

[Blanket]

I will, however you may be waiting a long time. On the other hand, I remember many people back in the days of "pure" gas who were buying new mowers and weedeaters every other year or so due to gummed up fuel systems and they figured the machine was just worn out so they bought a new one. Got a lot of nice machines with low miles for pocket change or free that way. I gave the princely sum of $8.00 for a barely used early 2000's Echo GT-200R weedeater from a co-worker. It hadn't been used in ten years and the fuel lines had crumbled to dust. New lines and filter, clean out solidified fuel/oil from the carb and she runs better than new.

Burning a piston is 99.99% of the time caused by running too lean. I tune all my carbs to be a bit rich at WOT. In my 2 strokes I run synthetic oil mixed 36:1 with a healthy dose of stabilizer. I believe the extra oil provides more of a cushion for the moving parts and cools down the combustion temperature a bit. I have been doing this protocol for well over a decade in a huge variety of machines with much better results than straight dino gas. Waited to respond. Get a test kit and check out your E10. Here in Iowa it can run a whole lot higher and have the same affect as a lean carb.

[FergusonTO35]

Good idea, will do. I have an article somewhere written by two guys who ran law mower engines on dino gas, E10,E85, and pure ethanol and measured things such as combustion temperature. They found that, as the E content gets higher the more rich your carb needs to be. They also found that E also produces more power and seemed to have no harmful effects on the engine as long as the fuel-air mixture was sufficiently rich, which of course isn't always feasible.

Got some saw action in this weekend cutting up a dead fir tree. Not a real big one, about 25 feet tall and maybe 10-12" at the base. The Poulan 2150 handled getting it on the ground and cutting up the trunk, my little Echo CS-3000 took care of the branches. These saws haven't been used in a few months but both fired right up and got down to business. The 2150 is very underrated. It is supposed to be 2.1 CID or 36cc but honestly cuts more like a quality 40-45cc saw.

[FergusonTO35]

I don't think Dolmar/Makita/Dolkita/Makmar whatever is going to save much money by doing away with the Dolmar name. Where exactly is the cost savings? There can't be that much in just decals and advertising signage. They consolidated Dolmar and Makita parts inventory, distribution, and tech support a long time ago. Dolmar the company is still in existence in Hamburg and it looks like Makita is going to keep using the Dolmar name in Germany and some other places.

The new USA market Dolkita saws are still Dolmar reddish orange in color. Other than somewhat updated contours the only difference is the Makita name and part numbers. For example, the new Dolkita version of the 5105 is the EA-5000. I can see that they would likely pick up more retail sales as the Makita name is way more recognizable here than Dolmar. Still, I think it is a mistake to make the historic and respected Dolmar name disappear completely. I have read on forums that Dolmar dealers are already getting calls from people needing their Makita power tools repaired.

I'll use a Dolkita saw when they place one in my COLD DEAD HANDS!!:not listening:



...



Or, when I run across a smokin' deal on one. Might go full old-school defiant and have some custom Sachs-Dolmar decals made for it.:mrgreen: