Little help sighting in a rifle with iron sights

[KnotRight]

I took my 1885 (45-70) to the range today to see how some new reloads would shoot. The attached picture was shot at 65 to 70 yards.


The 7 shots in the lower right side was aimed at the center red square. The ones above the center red square was aimed at the top left hand red square.


This is the 2nd time shooting the rifle. The front sight is hooded and I think it is dove tailed. The whole sight is mounted on some kind of ramp.


How would you drift the front sight? I am assuming it needs to go right a little. How much is a little? The gun also seem to be shooting low but is that normal for a 65 yard shot? I know it depends what distance it is sighted in. I am not sure what distance that caliber should be sighted in at.


http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/RunninLate/20160423_145040.jpg

[country gent]

Do you mean 1885? Look for set screws or headed screws on the front sight. If its on a dovetail look for a set screw thru the globe where the insert goes. this set screw helps lock the sight in place otherwise a piece of wood dowel 1/4 - 5/16 dia about 3 " long and a small hammer will tap it over. If its screwed to the barrel you will have to drift the rear sight over in its dovetail. Same way as above. If a tang sight then it may have windage in it ( Soule type or eyepiece block). My 45-70 is zeroed at 100 yds with known vernieer settings for 200, 300, 400, and 500 yds. There are many styles of sights out there and all may adjust a little diffrently. WOrst case is look in owners manual or call manufacturer to find out for sure.

[KnotRight]

Country Gent you were correct, 1895.

[W.R.Buchanan]

If this is a Marlin 1895 .45-70 then an appropriate distance to sight it in at would be 150 yards.

You would have to drift the rear sight to the left to get the bullets to go to the left. Unfortunately it would be a trial and error method of tweaking it as you have no way to precisely push the rear sight.

The elevation would be done with the steps on the rear sight elevator. Typically they relate to 50 yard increments.

If this is not an 1895 Marlin then I have no idea what to tell you since I don't know what gun you have.

Randy

[runfiverun]

you still move the rear sight the direction you want the boolit hole to go.
left for left and up for up.
the front sight is the opposite direction.
so if you want the front sight to help then move it to the right [as faced from where you shoot] that will move the holes to the left.

some times I move both sights so I can keep them better centered on the rifle.

[pietro]

.

K.I.S.S. . :bigsmyl2:



Adjusting a rifle's front sight, to zero the rifle, is a court of last resort - used only if the zeroing cannot be accomplished by adjusting the rear sight (be it open/iron, receiver or tang peep).

The simplest way I've found to keep track, when adjusting front or rear barrel sights to achieve zero, is to place a small strip of yellow masking tape across the barrel either in front or behind the sigh.

I make a pencil mark on the tape at some point that's near a sharp sight base edge (whatever).

I then adjust for the windage zero via moving the sight (R/L, via drifting) only about 1/16" at a time in the indicated R/L direction (baby steps), shoot for effect, and repeat the 1/16" movement as req'd, until the windage zero is achieved.

The distance that the sight has been moved is easily seen by eyeballing the new distance from that 1st pencil mark on the masking tape.

After the windage zero is accomplished, it's time to work on the elevation - depending upon whatever distance the rifle is to be zeroed for.

(Of course, the zeroing process works equally well if the elevation is zeroed first, then the windage.)



.

[country gent]

If possible I adjust front and rear in like amounts for several reasons. One it keeps dovetail engagement more even and stronger. Two the sights appear centered closer than moving one the full amount. On some rifles (Match riifles service or appeture sights) I used the front sight to zerop wind so the rear has zero wind on it, this way when I have to chase wind durring a stage I know where Im at. Its easier than starting out 4-6 mins left or right and trying to come back to it. Setting the front sight for wind can be a big plus at times

[w5pv]

When moving a front sight I take a colored marks alot and mark along the edge opposite from the travel I want to go and then move it in very small increments.This gives you a reference point of how much you move or a place to return if needed.

[44man]

Here ya go!
T= distance in inches to target (50 yards is 1800")
R= distance from rear sight to front sight, in inches.
I= distance to move POI, in inches.
S= distance to move either sight.
S=R/T X I.
To move POI at 50, 2" if R is 16", divide 16" by 1800"= .0088888.
Multiply .0088888 by 2"= .01777 so you would drift the sight .018"
Hope that helps.

[KnotRight]

Than 44man.

I called Marlin yesterday and my rifle rear sight is dove tailed. When looking at it, it was next to impossible to see. Now do I want to try to move it with a nylon hammer and a sight drift pin or buy a tool? The question that I have about using a tool is can you use the same one for a rifle that you use for a pistol? If so, do you have to remove the stock?

Thanks,

[pietro]

Now do I want to try to move it with a nylon hammer and a sight drift pin or buy a tool? - No, there's no "tool" available to move a sight dovetailed into a round bbl; and a nylon hammer is too light to be very effective.

The question that I have about using a tool is can you use the same one for a rifle that you use for a pistol? - Nope.

If so, do you have to remove the stock? - Nope





The Best Practice for moving the rear sight in the dovetail (after marking the starting position on the masking tape, I suggested above) is:

1) Secure the receiver horizontally in a solidly-mounted bench vise (clamp the receiver in padded jaws), OR have a strong assistant hold the rifle on a solid surface while the sight is moved.

2) If the sight being moved is a longleaf type, place a small strip of thin paper under the rearmost end of the longleaf, between the sight & the barrel, to avoid scratching the barrel finish when the sight is moved.

3) Using a non-marring drift (a short/4" long brass rod works best) & a heavy (12-16oz) hammer, place the drift on the appropriate side of the sight's male dovetail

4) Drive the sight with the hammer-powered drift pin - but be aware that hitting it with love taps can damage the sight w/o moving it. (hit it like owes you money)


5) Keep referencing the index mark on the masking tape, to determine how far the sight has been moved.

6) Repeat the drifting/referencing, as req'd.


.

[44man]

Pietro has it. I use a copper punch, it will bite and not slip like nylon.
The sight should move pretty easy, no need for a special tool. Tape helps to mark and a sharp pencil to make a starting line.
The amount to move is very little, the example I gave was for 16" sight distance so the shorter the barrel the less you move it. Longer barrels need moved more.
The same formula works for elevation changes.

[KnotRight]

Thanks 44Man.

I have a nylon punch that I got with a set of Dawson Precision sights and was going to try to use it. Not sure where to find a copper punch. I do have a set of brass punches.

[Geezer in NH]

Brass will be better than nylon and as good as copper.

Been smithing for many years ,retired in fact, and never had a copper drift.

[KnotRight]

Geezer, where can you buy a copper drift punch? I have a brass punch set.

[44man]

I have always been a scrounge so when something might have a use I keep it. I don't know where the hunk of copper rod cane from, might have been a hunk of original ground rod.
I once found a pure copper bracket, big and thick for some electrical purpose. I have made many new contacts for starter motors from it. Pain when the car clicks so I would take the solenoid apart and make new contacts. Get another 20 years from it.
Brass works too. If you get a smear of brass, Hoppe's and oooo steel wool will remove it.

[Geezer in NH]

Geezer, where can you buy a copper drift punch? I have a brass punch set.
Beats me your brass set is fine to use.

[country gent]

I have a few various sized copper, brass, aluminum, steel and nylon tipped punches. When we got a new apprentice in the shop it was fair game. We normally started him out on various machines with small tool projects to teach the basics of the machines operation, Saftey, and basic accuracy. Then we moved him to other tools for his box. Punches brass and copper hammers were made in batches. I had a brass or copper ball peen head drawn up that was 10 ozs. We had a polyuretane mold that made dead blow bumpers and a small short handled 8 0z dead blow hammer. Alot of the specialty tools are made in house or homemade. I have a simple mould made up to cast jaws for my barrel vise from lead. In a bind a piece of hobby store brass rod or copper rod can be cut 3-4" long the ends dressed with a file and used as a punch. A copper screw 1/4" dia 3" long from an electrical supply works even.