cast for .357 SIG

[Boolseye]

I'm coming up empty in my searches for this topic. Perhaps that should tell me something–but I have the gun, and the dies, ergo I need a boolit. I have the Lee 120 TC standard lube–best bet? I also have the NOE 358-135. Anyone who casts for this round, please weigh in.
-BE

[runfiverun]

put a couple in some empty cases and see how they feed from the magazine.
maybe start the oal a bit long and shorten it a tick and see what feeds and ejects the easiest.
then just start low and work up till you get 100% function of the gun.

there is your baseline load to build from.

[drw]

Saeco 377 is what I have used for years. I have tried others but the Saeco bullet has the extra long body for the short neck 357 Sig cartridge.

[Boolseye]

Thanks guys. That Saeco looks close enough to my Lee that I imagine it'll work.

I can only envision hot loads with this gun. I think I would prefer something in the 130-150 gr. range, capable of 1200 fps with accuracy. Otherwise, why bother? the luger covers everything else.

[Elkins45]

The main factor in choosing a 357 Sig bullet is to get one with a decent amount of straight sided bearing surface so it gives you decent neck tension. Because of the bottle neck I find that almost any nose shape feeds OK. Your biggest worry is getting enough tension that you don't have setback when it chambers. That's a reason to aim for 100% load density too, because the powder doesn't give the bullet anywhere to go. AA#9 is a popular choice for that reason.

[Boolseye]

I see. Thanks for the explanation.

[Andy]

I am not an experienced reloader/caster but the only cartridge I own but don't reload for is the .357 sig out of about 10 cartridges. The two reasons for this are the neck tension thing and my perceived risk of the .40S&W case bulge issue going on with the .357 sig cartridge. A visual inspection of my factory glock .357sig barrel shows it is definitely not supporting the case in the same way the .40S&W guys worry about for that cartridge. You may want to read up on this if you haven't already. I am sure there is a safe way to do it, but I know it is a much more risky round to reload than average due to these two factors.

I figure I'll reload it someday, but only after i learn the ropes on the more forgiving cartridges.

[Boolseye]

Thanks Andy. I was looking at the accurate molds, the 35-147S or maybe the 35-125S.

[james nicholson]

I have cast and loaded for 357 Sig for some time now, Elkins 45 said it all. Straight surface, long enough for a good grip and 100 % load density. I use the 120 grain Lee truncated cone mold and 13 gr of AA-#9. Sized at .358 and lubed with Lars' BAC lube. This works fine in my Sig 250 and my Glock Gen 4 32.

[Chris24]

I have been loading 357 Sig for years, and haven't had any major problems. I found that using a .40S&W carbide sizing die before the 357 sizing die keeps me from having to lube cases. Usually I use 124 grain plated TC bullets.

I just started casting for it, and use the Lee 120-TC also. They drop at about 125 with my WW alloy. The bearing surface is a bit short on it, so i use an OAL of 1.16" to make sure the neck is good. My Glock mags have no trouble with that length. I like to use AA9, Power Pistol and Blue Dot for my plinking loads. Longshot is good for the really hot loads, up around 1500 FPS.

[Boolseye]

Good info. Thanks folks, keep 'em coming! I'm also interested in hearing how people feel about the round in general, what they like about it, accuracy, etc. Also what you don't like about it, if that's the case. I haven't shot it yet, so I have no opinion. It kind of intrigues me and I have the barrel now for my m&p .40. I'm leaning toward a heavy, 147-150, that'll also work in the 9.

[Beef15]

I have cast for my M&P 357. I want to say the barrel slugged .357, I sized to .358. Using wheel weight alloy and the Lee 120TC with AA9 or Power Pistol it leaded horribly. Toyed with PC @ .356 for a hundred rounds, no leading, recoil seemed harsh, need to experiment more.

Was looking at that NOE 135 today, looks like it's made for the Sig... I got the 155TC for my 9mm, but will probably add it soon.

If you don't have dies make sure you get a set with an expander, you have to have one for lead. RCBS dies don't come with one. Also crimp seperate, the only time I buckled shoulders was trying to crimp and seat in one die. No set-back or tension issues.

One thing about the M&P, everyone talks about 357S OAL length needing to be short to fit mags, that does not appear the case in this gun, the throat is my only real limit so far.

[goste]

I'm also getting to have some interest in the .357Sig. since this is a bottleneck round, does it use a taper crimp, or roll crimp? I hear talk of bullet setback, hence the advice to use AA9, for case fill., but I was wondering if one could use a tumble lube boolit, and roll crimp in one if the micro bands.

I have yet to find a platform in .357 sig, that I want to purchase. I have a lot of brands in 9mm, and.45, but would like something diff., for .357 Sig, just don't know what it would be yet

[osteodoc08]

Initially I was told to steer clear of cast boolits for my 357 Sig. I dont shoot it as much as I once did. I ended up loading 124gr XTP and the 124 TC double plated boolits.

It is common practice by many to size the body of the case with a 40/10mm sizing die.

Be sure to not set back the shoulder too much or you will have FTF since the case headspaces on the shoulder (making a long reach for the FP to primer)......ask me how I know.

You boolit choice must have a long body as mentioned due to the bottle neck design. Another reason I have steered clear of cast boolits, but I'm sure there are plenty of options now days.

I've always used AA#9 for my 357 Sig loadings. My XTP's literally rest on the powder column and cant set back.

I initially didnt even want to mess with the 357 Sig but my lovely wife (SWMBO) bought me a Glock in 357 Sig as a gift. I have learned to love it and admire the cartridge for what it was designed to do........Mimic the velocity of the 357 Mag with a 125gr bullet. That it does. It is far outpaced with heavier loadings, but does favorably with the 125gr class bullet.

[bstone5]

Load the 357 SIG a lot. For a SIG that can use the 40 S&W barrel or the 357 SIG barrel.
Bullet is the Accurate 35-120G.
I designed the bullet using SolidWorks.
Accurate made a two cavity mold out of steel to fit my Master Caster.
The bullets are powder coated to as not to require lube.
AA #9 powder is used to help remove set back.
A Lee crimp die is also used to apply a crimp at the end of the case.
Shoots very well, have shot several thousand without problems.

[chucky64]

Here are the two bullets that I use to reload the 357 sig cartridge. The saeco 377 and the Lee Bullet Mold 358-125-RF. Now day's I mostly use the Lee mold, being a 6 cav a lot of bullets can be cast in a shorter
amount of time. It took a long time to get the dies set up perfectly so they load, function and grip the
bullet to my satisfaction. My personal favorite powder is Acc # 7, When the crimp die is finally set up
correctly I dont feel the need to fill the case with the slower powders like Acc#9 to prevent setback.
167104

[Boolseye]

Looks good. Thanks for taking the time to post the pics. I'll have a good knowledge base when I get up and running.

[runfiverun]

if you want to slow things down and not make 1killion mph loads for it.
you could step the powder back in speed and get on the too slow side of things.
in my 25-20 I went to AA-2230 powder and just kept on adding more until I was happy with it.
I used AA's 1680 data to work from.

[Boolseye]

step the powder back in speed Runfive, do you mean lower the charge or use more of a slower powder?

[warboar_21]

I haven't bought a mold yet for my Sig. So far i've been using Hunter's Supply 125gr bullet. I've used both AA#7 and #9. My 229 shoots this bullet with no leading and accuracy is very good. I have been thinking about picking up a mold to feed it though.

[osteodoc08]

do you mean slower burning powders such as 2400, 4227 and the like? So the case remains pretty full?

AA #9 would be a good example

[Boolseye]

Thanks Osteo–I was referring to Runfive's suggestion to "step the powder back in speed (for slower loads)" I just wasn't sure whether he meant reduce the charges or use slower powders while keeping the weights high and the case full. I do understand the general concept here (slow powders, full cases).

I do like the idea of 1 killion mph loads :Fire:

[fredj338]

The Lee will work. I load the Saeco in my 357sig, works fine to about 1250fps. I want to give some PC a try, see if I can get a cleans, accurate shooter @ 1350fps.

[Boolseye]

Cool, I'll cast up some of those 120 TCs to start.

[runfiverun]

more of a slower powder.
I'm not super familiar with the round but going past #9 to something like 4100 would give you the fill and a good burn but without all the velocity.
950 fps or so is good enough to make a hole in paper at 50 yds stabilize the boolit and ease up on the recoil.
your just looking for a good fit maybe fiddle with the primers some to help.

most guy's look for 90-100% case fill to get the most gas volume and velocity from a round going to a slower powder starts to reduce the velocity and pressure at the same time you just need to find one slow enough to still burn clean and make the gun run effectively.

something like starting with 800-x in the 45 acp then stepping back to steel, that bumps the velocity back down 50 fps but makes 100% case fill for sure.
it hurts nothing but gets the boolit down the barrel smoothly and reduces the chances of boolit set-back to nothing.
it's also a ton easier on the gun.

[Boolseye]

Good stuff Runfive. Thanks for the explanation.

I cast up some Lee 120s pretty hard, PB gas checks. I plan to push them.
Also some Lee 158 RF for plinkers. I have a little Blue Dot, some 296, some Unique. I'll report back. Gun is M&P full-size, 4.25 barrel (the barrels are currently available at Midway and Brownells). I'm actually pretty psyched.


Loaded a few today. The 120s I shot over 9.5 grains of blue dot, they were screaming. No leading.

[Boolseye]

Anyone shooting the NOE TLC357-135RF in 357 SIG? Accuracy/feeding OK?
I like the GC for hot loads with softer alloy.

[almostgone]

I've had good luck with the Lyman 356402 and Cramer 9-124 with Blue Dot. Very accurate

[6bg6ga]

I fail to see the logic here. The 357 Sig was meant to be a hot rod load and yet now that you have it you want to dial it down and shoot lead. This makes no sense to me but then again I don't own a 357 Sig. The 357 Sig was meant ot be a very fast good hitting round. If you want to shoot lead why not invest in a different caliber?

[dondiego]

You can shoot lead at the max velocity for this caliber. You don't have to all of the time though.

[Piedmont]

I fail to see the logic here. The 357 Sig was meant to be a hot rod load and yet now that you have it you want to dial it down and shoot lead. This makes no sense to me but then again I don't own a 357 Sig. The 357 Sig was meant ot be a very fast good hitting round. If you want to shoot lead why not invest in a different caliber?
For the same reason most of us don't run our .357s revolvers full blast all the time. He wants to practice with his gun. Buying another gun is expensive. If I had a .357 Sig I would load it down for practice and keep factory loads in it for self defense. Makes perfect sense to me.

[Boolseye]

I fail to see the logic here. The 357 Sig was meant to be a hot rod load and yet now that you have it you want to dial it down and shoot lead. This makes no sense to me but then again I don't own a 357 Sig. The 357 Sig was meant ot be a very fast good hitting round. If you want to shoot lead why not invest in a different caliber?
read the thread again. I never said anything about loading down. I do listen to others suggestions, though, that's how I learn.

[6bg6ga]

Well, you certainly aren't going to get the same speed out of cast as you will jacketed therefore you will have to slow things down. With respect to cast for practice and man stoppers to carry. You need to be proficient with anything you load into your gun. The idea of only practicing with cast and not practicing with what your carrying doesn't make sense period.

[6bg6ga]

The 357 Sig is capable of speeds of 1300-1600fps depending on bullet weight. Trying to run lead well it better be very hard and probably should be kept under 1200fps. Attention should be paid to the pressure as this cartridge generally runs 38,000 on up. Page 348 Lymans number 49 reloading manual states Quote " The short neck of the 357 Sig proved unsuitable for use with any of Lymans cast bullets" The SAAMI Maximum Average (MAP) is 40,000 PSI

[6bg6ga]

Also pay attention to the fact that only .355 diameter bullets can be loaded despite the 357 designation. You cannot use .357 diameter bullets intended for use in the 38/357. This is also noted on page 348 of Lyman's 49th Reloading Handbook.

[Boolseye]

I appreciate your contributions to the thread. I agree, jacketed is the simplest way to reach those velocities with accuracy in this round. I have had success with cast thus far, though the law of diminishing returns can set in and your points are well taken. Thanks.

[Boolseye]

I have been casting them hard for this round, and I have a gas check design on it's way from NOE. Haven't had any leading problems yet, still experimenting. Accuracy is OK. Another nice thing about this round is the ability to shoot up to 160 grains.

[dondiego]

Well, you certainly aren't going to get the same speed out of cast as you will jacketed therefore you will have to slow things down. With respect to cast for practice and man stoppers to carry. You need to be proficient with anything you load into your gun. The idea of only practicing with cast and not practicing with what your carrying doesn't make sense period.

You don't own a .357 SIG and yet you profess to be an expert on it's capabilities? I shoot cast boolits at 0.357 diameter at 1300 FPS in mine. Probably could go faster too.

[6bg6ga]

Please do read posts #34 AND 35 AGAIN. Info is straight out of reloading manuals with respect to speed and pressures. Page #348 in Lyman's 49th edition states what I have mentioned. It specifically mentions not to use 38/357 bullets with .357 diameter. It also states not to use any of Lymans cast bullets. Have someone read it too you. Please include info on those 1300 fps loads and chrono readings to back it up.

[rodsvet]

I don't want to get into a pissing match on what to do with cast or jacketed in the Sig. I run Saeco 924 SW GC with AA#9 easily at 1400 FPS. Your experience may be different. It is not what I carry, only Federal factory for carry for me. On the range for practice the Saeco hits at the same point of aim with similar speed and doesn't lead the barrel (well maybe a little). I run srtaight lino and copper checks. The Saeco runs well in my 357mag and 9MM. Enjoy what you load and shoot! Rod

[dkf]

Also pay attention to the fact that only .355 diameter bullets can be loaded despite the 357 designation. You cannot use .357 diameter bullets intended for use in the 38/357. This is also noted on page 348 of Lyman's 49th Reloading Handbook.

All false. You obviously don't know anything about the round and don't seem to care to learn anything about it. Just move on you are not helping anything.

I run 150gr PB cast over 1200fps in .357sig. And yes .355", .356" and .357" jacketed bullets can be used in the .357sig. You can run lighter bullets even faster which I have done. I usually size all my .357sig cast bullets to .358".


I have been casting them hard for this round, and I have a gas check design on it's way from NOE. Haven't had any leading problems yet, still experimenting. Accuracy is OK. Another nice thing about this round is the ability to shoot up to 160 grains.

You can shoot up to 180gr bullets really. Matter of fact there is factory 180gr cast ammo available from double tap. A member here shoots .357" 180gr XTPs in his .357sig and is able to drive them fast enough to get reliable expansion.

[Boolseye]

Cool, I appreciate all the good info here. Thanks again guys.

[dondiego]

Please do read posts #34 AND 35 AGAIN. Info is straight out of reloading manuals with respect to speed and pressures. Page #348 in Lyman's 49th edition states what I have mentioned. It specifically mentions not to use 38/357 bullets with .357 diameter. It also states not to use any of Lymans cast bullets. Have someone read it too you. Please include info on those 1300 fps loads and chrono readings to back it up.

Really? Are you available today?

[6bg6ga]

Have someone open up a copy of Lymans 49th edition and read page 348. What I have posted is in the book. Still waiting for a picture of the chrono read out.

[rodsvet]

Joe is correct on the Lyman manual. And we may get better results experimenting but being safe is always a good place to start. I've known Joe (6bg6ga) and he is an expert in many areas and I think he is trying to help guys new to this caliber from not starting out with over max loads. Rod

[Boolseye]

Alright, no disrespect intended. Sorry Joe, I was just a little irritated seeing things get heated. I probably just made it worse. Thanks again for trying to help, I have lots to learn. And thanks rodsvet for bringing a note of equanimity back to the thread.

[6bg6ga]

Gentlemen, it is not my intention to start a peeing match. I would however like to keep as many of you in one piece as I can. As you certainly know manuals are always a good place to start and caution must always be exercised in developing any load. I have personally seen both the 357 SIG and the 40 Cal improperly loaded and as a result a few guns have been lost. Luckily no one has been hurt that I personally know. I always pay attention to what manuals stress as there must be a reason for the mention in the manual. Pressure is a nasty animal and these two calibers seem to stick out for several reasons. As some of you know any shift of the bullet in the case which results in increased pressure can and most times does end up with drastic results. My only thought in my posts was to make some here aware of the pressures involved in loading can and will go up when several factors are now followed. It was not my thoughts but those of the people that put together Lymans fine manuals. Some reading this may be aware of some of the older manuals out there and some of the problems associated with a lot of the loads that were published. Good luck with your loading and please do keep accurate records keep in mind the signs of pressure and if at all possible buy or borrow a chrono to record speed. All these things I mentioned will go a long way to both keep you safe and safe guard your fine shooting instruments.

[Boolseye]

Definitely appreciate where you're coming from 6bg6ga. Safety is number one, as you rightly remind us. That said, I don't think loading cast boolits in this round is irresponsible or pointless. 1300 fps sounds pretty easily done to me–pretty confident I've already done the same, chrono or no. I will send pics once I get in the field with my chrono on this one, which I will eventually do.

[Moonie]

I firmly believe the biggest issue with this cartridge, and the 400 Cor-Bon is bullet setback. Please, if you are loading this round or any bottle neck pistol cartridge, ensure your loads will not suffer boolit setback, that will cause pressures to skyrocket.

[6bg6ga]

Now the point is starting to get across. Bullet depth rams up pressure and so does diameter. This is one that runs very high pressure and that is why extreme caution should be used. If you don't trust me I suggest that you pick up a copy of Lymans 49th manual.

[dkf]

I firmly believe the biggest issue with this cartridge, and the 400 Cor-Bon is bullet setback. Please, if you are loading this round or any bottle neck pistol cartridge, ensure your loads will not suffer boolit setback, that will cause pressures to skyrocket.

Setback can actually be more dangerous on straight walled pistol cartridges. Look at the link below of testing done by ATK. Once the bullet slips and starts getting to the ogive the pressure drops some instead of increasing. It is still well under proof pressures .357sig.

http://www.le.vistaoutdoor.com/downloads/technical_bulletins/357_SIG_Setback_Length-vs-Pressure.pdf

I always test sample rounds by pushing the bullet nose against the load bench to make sure neck tension is adequate before loading quantity. Sometimes I'll make a couple dummy rounds and cycle them through the gun to see how much the bullet slips after X amount of chamberings.

[xringshutr]

Uuuuuuuh.........how bout we slug and measure and go from there. Mine runs .3565 and I run .358 with ZERO issues. Lee 358-125. I've pushed them hard with WQWW with no leading whatsoever. Seems this conversation hasn't talked about the basics of shooting cast in a high pressure (for a pistol) cartridge. It's still about fit to the bore. BTW, how is this different than a rifle cartridge with cast other than the shooting platform????? 300 BLK comes to mind.....pressure is higher than 357 SIG, but still easily do-able, safely.

[dkf]

Uuuuuuuh.........how bout we slug and measure and go from there. Mine runs .3565 and I run .358 with ZERO issues. Lee 358-125. I've pushed them hard with WQWW with no leading whatsoever. Seems this conversation hasn't talked about the basics of shooting cast in a high pressure (for a pistol) cartridge. It's still about fit to the bore. BTW, how is this different than a rifle cartridge with cast other than the shooting platform????? 300 BLK comes to mind.....pressure is higher than 357 SIG, but still easily do-able, safely.

Buuut a book says....:kidding:

I agree with you. Nothing new under the sun here that we and many others have not been doing for years already.

[6bg6ga]

I guess I have tried to make some of you see the light only to be bashing my head against the wall. So be it. If you believe you know more thn experts that put these reloading books together than so be it. I have only offered a source a trusted source that tells you not to do this or that and you scoff at it. As to set back.....any high pressure cartridge can be dangerous with bullet set back. I have seen examples of both a 357 Sig and a 40 cal that were victims of stupidity. As to the I don't own a 357 Sig..... have a barrel on order for my Glock 23 and will soon add it to the list of other calibers I load. As to any comments I have made..... I know absolutely nothing about reloading as I have done it in excess of 40+ years.

[lightload]

Would not using a cannelure tool to form a cannelure on the 357 Sig's case neck be a good way to deal with bullet set back? That and a Lee collet crimp die should work well together.

I need to clarify the suggestion of putting a cannelure on the 357 Sig case. I was thinking about using it for high performance ammo. I assume that a heavy cannelure around the case neck would bite into the boolit and help prevent set back. Or, it might be used with a lightweight(thus shorter)boolit and be place at the very rear of the neck.

[Boolseye]

with all due respect to other opinions, I don't think anyone on this thread is advocating unsafe loading practices with this or any other round. We're just tossing around experience and questions about loading for this round, using cast bullets. This is not groundbreaking or innovative, as many hard-hitting, high pressure rounds use cast successfully. That's why we're here. I can't speak for Lyman 9mm molds, but several Lee, NOE and Accurate designs work just fine in this round. As for sizing, I always like to have my CBs .001" or .002" bigger than the bore. Sometimes .003" bigger. Standard practice. With my powder charges generally under suggested starting loads for jacketed, there is no way that little diameter increase will cause a problem. I size all my 9mm bullets to .358". As to the point–there really doesn't have to be one, other than wanting to shoot the round. To argue a point, however–it's a simple matter to eclipse the 9mm and still stay way inside of the pressure max. Just my .02 at this moment. And so far, so good with accuracy, gun function, pressure signs etc. etc. As always, with any round, start low and work up, keeping an eye out for problems. I loaded 9.5 grains of Blue Dot under the Lee 120 TC–I suspect velocity was in the 1400 fps range, and that load is over 2 grains under max for that weight bullet. Still, felt too hot to me and the gun wasn't ejecting the rounds (a new M&P). this is a known issue with this round and this gun, so I dropped the load to 9 grains. Problem solved. I suspect the pressures were locking the case in the chamber for a nanosecond, and the extractor was bypassing the case. If I were beholden to factory ammo I might just have to live with such failures. Also picked up the Apex M&P extractor, but it looks like I may not need it. That was the only problem I've had. I've shot the Accurate 35-147S, the Lee 358-158 RF and the NOE 357-135 RF, all with good accuracy and no leading. An extremely gracious fellow member supplied me with samples of the NOE and Accurate bullets, and I then purchased one of the NOE molds in standard lube groove configuration. This is a gas check bullet, which will allow for softer alloys while maintaing velocity. I do not feel as though I'm flirting with disaster here, just enjoying a new gun and a new round. God bless Castboolits! I also take the cautionary tales seriously, 'cause I like my fingers, toes and eyes. Wait, did I say toes?

[xringshutr]

We're definitely not saying that someone doesn't know anything about reloading. This forum is for sharing experience with what we all like to work and shoot with......cast boolits. I'm just sharing MY experience with the 357 SIG. I have two, and one is a Glock with a factory barrel. No issues with either gun shooting cast. Just cuz someone says in a book it can't be done........doesn't mean it can't be done. If that were the case and everyone adhered to that, MANY developments in our world just wouldn't have happened. Sorry to get all philosophical. I just don't see an issue with this if you do it safely and pay attention to the nuances of this cartridge. I also think that a good number of the posters on this forum could write their own book on the subject and not be "outclassed" by an employee/expert from one of the big mold makers that publish a manual. Heck, Lee copies and publishes all of their data anyway.

Again, slug barrel......size to .001-.002 over......set your seater and crimper with great attention to detail.......test loads........shoot what works.

[dondiego]

Yea, but you know you can't shoot lead in a Glock right? I read it on the internet.

[xringshutr]

Might have been why I emphasized it.......there are a few profound points in my message. :drinks:

[dkf]

My .357sig pistols are Glocks with the factory barrel. I plan to pick up a KKM .357sig barrel in G24 length soon as Glock doesn't make one.

[Boolseye]

Here is a post on some range time with a chrono and the .357 SIG yesterday. .357 mag velocities are easily achieved with cast bullets, along with good accuracy. My powder charges were under starting weight for jacketed, and my OAL was the same or longer. This round is just inherently hot, and as such should be treated with respect and care. Here are a couple chrono shots, along with the target and the barrel after about 25 rounds. the groups were by no means amazing but were serviceable. I was surprised at how fast the pills were moving. Barrel was basically clean after, a couple passes with a bronze brush and done.

Bullets are NOE 357-135 RF (gas check)and Lee 356-120 TC (plain base). Loads were 7.7 grains 800x (NOE) and 9.0 grains Blue Dot (Lee). For reference, I also shot and chronoed one round of factory SIG Sauer 125 gr. FMJ, which also clocked in at over 1400 fps, though box rated at 1355. As far as I know my Chrony is dead on. NOE bullets were bhn 8-9, and would no doubt pass an expansion test.

[JeffG]

Resurrecting the thread. Just found a M&P 357c recently, picked up some Starline brass and have run some Lee 356-120-TC through it sized .357 with #2 lube. At present using a load of 7.2 grains Power Pistol which is doing about 1060fps over the chrony and has been dead on shooting at steel at 25 yards. The bullets are 50/50 pb/coww with a little tin. Leaving a little antimony wash that brushes out with a couple passes of a bronze brush after 50 rounds.

Decided to order some of Smokes Traffic Purple PC and coated some of the bullets and pushed them through a Lee .358 sizer. I haven’t loaded them up yet but will them will start bumping up the charge. Upgraded to an Apex competition trigger kit and tried that out todsy, very nice.

Will post more as it develops.

[44Blam]

I've been loading .357 sig with the Accurate 35-125YG. Gas checked and under a solid AA #7 load. They're going around 1400 fps and are super accurate - even to 100 yards from a Glock 35 with a 357 sig drop in KKM barrel.

I love this load, but 357 sig is kind of a pain to load for so I tend to just load 40 S&W... But it is a pleasure to shoot - I shoot it mainly at the indoor steel matches so I can get my brass back.

[cwlongshot]

Haha. Yea loosin brass is the only reason I dont choose the lil sig round!!

Its more accurate in my findings. I have a couple KKM Barrels for this round. I bought a G24 and installed a KKM barrel before I ever even shot it in 40! MAN WHAT A SHOOTER!! I have out shot guys tuning up there deer guns in the fall!!

My first was a no name barrel I picked up on the bargain shelf up at Kittery trading post in Maine on VK some years back. It was for a G27 and I had brought a G27 with me. The rest is history!

I use the LEE 125RF too. Works perfect for me sized 356. Power Pistol and #7 are the powders I use mostly. I dont push it real hard w cast but some serious number have been hit from that G24! I wont even post them.

Glock buldge is a seriously OVER-REPORTED issue. I have shot some very very heavy loads and never seen one in any factory or aft mkt bbl.

It was a issue on first gen Glocks in 40 and FIXED! Let it die...

CW

[dansedgli]

I shoot 171 grain projectiles in mine.

Very accurate out of a 2011 handgun.

I just use 40 cal brass necked down.

[Elkins45]

Resurrecting the thread. Just found a M&P 357c recently, picked up some Starline brass and have run some Lee 356-120-TC through it sized .357 with #2 lube. At present using a load of 7.2 grains Power Pistol which is doing about 1060fps over the chrony and has been dead on shooting at steel at 25 yards. The bullets are 50/50 pb/coww with a little tin. Leaving a little antimony wash that brushes out with a couple passes of a bronze brush after 50 rounds.

Decided to order some of Smokes Traffic Purple PC and coated some of the bullets and pushed them through a Lee .358 sizer. I haven’t loaded them up yet but will them will start bumping up the charge. Upgraded to an Apex competition trigger kit and tried that out todsy, very nice.

Will post more as it develops.

I bought a used M&P 357 that was probably a police trade-in. I like it so much I hesitate to shoot it a lot for fear it will break, although I suppose if I wear out the frame I can just buy a 40 and move the barrel over. I’ve been shooting a NOE 130 grain SWC in 357 Sig recently and it’s about my favorite cast bullet in that caliber because it has long parallel sides that give good neck tension.


I shoot 171 grain projectiles in mine.

Very accurate out of a 2011 handgun.

I just use 40 cal brass necked down.



When I tried that I ended up with really short necks and had problems with neck tension, although with really heavy bullets they are probably already sitting on the powder charge.

[cwlongshot]

244515244516244517I have a 130 Lyman TC & a 147 TC BB bullet that might work well too! I just remembered it.

Here is the LEE358-125RC. My Lyman 130 TC and the 147 Lyman TC BB

[JeffG]

I ordered an NOE 358-124-TC recently, already have it heat cycled and ready to cast with. It holds more lube than the Lee 356-120-TC, and will be slightly bigger so it should do better in the 9mm and 357 Sig. The the only issue i see with the Lee bullet at present is not quite enough lube. Will run some tests with that new bullet, both PC’d and lubed in the standard manner without PC and report back. Plan to push it harder. Blessings

[44Blam]

244515244516244517I have a 130 Lyman TC & a 147 TC BB bullet that might work well too! I just remembered it.

Here is the LEE358-125RC. My Lyman 130 TC and the 147 Lyman TC BB

You got the golden boolit!!!

[fredj338]

I fail to see the logic here. The 357 Sig was meant to be a hot rod load and yet now that you have it you want to dial it down and shoot lead. This makes no sense to me but then again I don't own a 357 Sig. The 357 Sig was meant ot be a very fast good hitting round. If you want to shoot lead why not invest in a different caliber?
I am in the same boat, same with 10mm shooters. If you want to shoot low end 9mm vel, shoot a 9mm. It will be more efficient & easier to load for. When I take the 357sig out to practice I want full power or near that in my loads. I am sure it is possible with PC coated lead.

[fredj338]

Haha. Yea loosin brass is the only reason I dont choose the lil sig round!!
CW

Once fired 357sig brass is available @ a reasonable cost, so don't let that stop you shooting it.

[cwlongshot]

Our steel matches are 300 round plus. Anything that huts the ground belocgs to the range.

Do that 3-4 times a month and it makes a large dent in anyones brass supply.

Shooting 40 (or 9) one will never ever run out. I have 4-5 five gallon pails full
Of mixed 9/40 and at least as many sorted and cleaned. In that I MIGHT find a box of sigs per bucket...

CW

[hatt]

Our steel matches are 300 round plus. Anything that huts the ground belocgs to the range.

Do that 3-4 times a month and it makes a large dent in anyones brass supply.

Shooting 40 (or 9) one will never ever run out. I have 4-5 five gallon pails full
Of mixed 9/40 and at least as many sorted and cleaned. In that I MIGHT find a box of sigs per bucket...

CW

I'd pass on shooting 357 sig there too. I hate leaving any less common brass on the ground. My Glock launches 357 cases into low Earth orbit so it's challenging to collect all of them on a good day.

[barnabus]

I fail to see the logic here. The 357 Sig was meant to be a hot rod load and yet now that you have it you want to dial it down and shoot lead. This makes no sense to me but then again I don't own a 357 Sig. The 357 Sig was meant ot be a very fast good hitting round. If you want to shoot lead why not invest in a different caliber?

because some people like different calibers

[robbyPGP2014]

First, Second what Beef 15 said about the expander &seperate crimping die.the powders in the above posts are dead on in my experience. Good advice, and as for for pure speed you might try the Lee 105grain swc .358 mold with #aa9 or longshot powders, I am sure there are others but these are the only ones I have tried. The 357 sig is one if not my favorite round, I am considering finding someone cut me a357 cylinder for my 357 blackhawk. anyone have a suggestion on who would do this?

[6bg6ga]

because some people like different calibers

Your comment makes no sense. The 357 Sig a necked down high speed round has a purpose and that was supposed to be an accurate fast round that hits with authority. In order to shoot cast your going to slow it down to about 1000fps or possibly depending on the allow and hardness and use of a gas check possibly as high has 1300+. Shooting plated bullets still would restrict the velocity of the round due to restrictions on speed of the plated bullet over a jacketed round. Yes, you could shoot the 357 round with cast but why bother when you could simply pick up a 9mm and do the same with less hassle and better accuracy.

[dondiego]

Your comment makes no sense. The 357 Sig a necked down high speed round has a purpose and that was supposed to be an accurate fast round that hits with authority. In order to shoot cast your going to slow it down to about 1000fps or possibly depending on the allow and hardness and use of a gas check possibly as high has 1300+. Shooting plated bullets still would restrict the velocity of the round due to restrictions on speed of the plated bullet over a jacketed round. Yes, you could shoot the 357 round with cast but why bother when you could simply pick up a 9mm and do the same with less hassle and better accuracy.

It makes sense that he shoots what caliber he wants with the ammo that he wants! You shouldn't even be commenting about this cartridge since you don't own one but you still give your advice. Have you ever shot a cast bullet out of a rifle cartridge? Not if you live by the comment that you espouse above.

[dkf]

Four years later and still steps in to take a dump on this thread.

[McFred]

The 357 Sig was meant ot be a very fast good hitting round. If you want to shoot lead why not invest in a different caliber?

If you want to shoot low end 9mm vel, shoot a 9mm.

If I want to load 900fps cast 357SIG, I don't see anything stopping me. You think I'm ever going to get 1400fps out of a 9mm pistol safely? Some of you curmudgeons should go crawl back to whatever rock you came out from under.

[megasupermagnum]

Maybe I missed it, but what is stopping you from shooting a cast bullet a 1300+ fps from a 357 SIG?

[dkf]

Maybe I missed it, but what is stopping you from shooting a cast bullet a 1300+ fps from a 357 SIG?

Nothing, if you know what you are doing.

[exile]

I did not read the whole thread, but has anyone ever tried a 158 grain round nose flat point boolit in .357 Sig? I would powder-coat these, size them to .356 and shoot them between 900-1000 fps., sort of a semi-auto .38 Special if you will. That way I could enjoy shooting this caliber without chasing my brass into the next county.

Any thoughts on the matter?

exile

[fcvan]

I had collected so much 357 Sig brass that I felt obligated to buy a Lone Wolf drop in for my G22. A buddy carried a Sig Saur 357 Sig for a few years and gave me all of his brass, and 600+ rounds of factory 125 gr FMJ. Cool. The factory FMJ shot 1350 fps and was neat.

The profile of the factory round was exactly the same as the Lee 358-125 RF, so I worked up loads using that projectile. First rounds were lubed lead with no leading issues. Since then I began ASBBPC for everything handgun. I could go further with the load but stopped at 1325 fps, powder was/is Unique. I know that other powders could change results/increase velocity.

I buy Unique in 8 lb jugs and love the stuff. I don't need many types of powder for what I load. I figure if I can consistently hit tin cans at 100 yards using Iron Sights, I have found my mark. Recoil pulse is similar to my 40 S&W loads, but more of a push back and less muzzle rise. I don't shoot the 357 Sig round nearly enough preferring to shoot the 40 S&W I carry.

Although I would not feel poorly armed with the Sig round, I just stick to what my duty caliber was before retirement. If I want to shoot 357, I dust off my S&W M13, similar to the M10 that was my duty weapon for the first 25 or so years. There is something about the simplicity of a wheel gun, at the range where I just dump the empties in a coffee can without having to pick them up. :)

[44Blam]

I did not read the whole thread, but has anyone ever tried a 158 grain round nose flat point boolit in .357 Sig? I would powder-coat these, size them to .356 and shoot them between 900-1000 fps., sort of a semi-auto .38 Special if you will. That way I could enjoy shooting this caliber without chasing my brass into the next county.

Any thoughts on the matter?

exile

RNFP might work, but that is a pretty big boolit for 357 sig. I found that a 125 grain round nose boolit shoots nicely. They are gas checked and I have them moving in the 1300 or so fps.

[megasupermagnum]

RNFP might work, but that is a pretty big boolit for 357 sig. I found that a 125 grain round nose boolit shoots nicely. They are gas checked and I have them moving in the 1300 or so fps.

It brings you full circle, why you didn't just stay with 40 S&W to begin with. But being different is good. 147 gr is good in 9mm Luger, so why not 158 gr in 357 sig?

[dansedgli]

I use 160 grain round nose bullets in sig and have used 185's. as long as you can fit them in the mag and find a good powder they are fine.

I shoot them in a 2011.

[44Blam]

It brings you full circle, why you didn't just stay with 40 S&W to begin with. But being different is good. 147 gr is good in 9mm Luger, so why not 158 gr in 357 sig?

I shoot a lot of 40 S&W. My boolit with 40 is a 180 or so grain NOE HP. Great boolit. But it is going in the 8-900 fps range. I shoot those little 9mm boolits as 357 sig because there's nothing like the crack of a boolit exceeding the sound barrier. But the base of the boolit is just past the neck of the case at 125 grain... Bigger would put the base fully in the cartridge...

[exile]

I shoot a lot of 40 S&W. My boolit with 40 is a 180 or so grain NOE HP. Great boolit. But it is going in the 8-900 fps range. I shoot those little 9mm boolits as 357 sig because there's nothing like the crack of a boolit exceeding the sound barrier. But the base of the boolit is just past the neck of the case at 125 grain... Bigger would put the base fully in the cartridge...

Thanks, all of you for your insight. I have loaded several hundred rounds of jacketed bullets in this round, but never cast, so my experience is extremely limited.

exile

[megasupermagnum]

With how short the neck on a 357 sig is, any heavy bullet is going to be past it. I wouldn't worry about it.

[44Blam]

Funny enough - I loaded some of my "go-to" 357 sig boolits in 350 legend and was able to send a 125 grain PC/GC pill with 1-2 MOA accuacy at 2650 fps...

[44Blam]

265063

These are fun!

[Boolseye]

The Lee 358-158 RF and NOE Elko 358-155 both work fine in the 357 SIG, right up to full house loads. I have loaded both myself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[exile]

The Lee 358-158 RF and NOE Elko 358-155 both work fine in the 357 SIG, right up to full house loads. I have loaded both myself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Regarding both the boolits you mentioned, my thought was to start at ________ of Unique and go up 1/10th of a grain at a time until I achieved reliable function and velocity somewhere between 900-1,000 fps.

Regarding other powders, I have AA # 9, but don't want full house loads.

Not looking for load data, but just a place to start. Would you (or anyone else) care to comment on the wisdom of such a plan?

Obviously, due to the current situation, other powders may be difficult to obtain.

Thank you for your previous response and any further thoughts you may wish to share.

If you are not comfortable commenting on the use of Unique with these boolits I certainly understand your reticence.

exile

[Boolseye]

I think I will refrain from advocating or discouraging a particular load that I have not tested or seen, what I will say is that a safe amount of Unique under either of these slugs, in this caliber, will have a good burn rate for their intended purpose. Keep in mind the propensity for bullet set-back in this cartridge-I solve this with a heavy taper crimp from the Lee fcd.

[fredj338]

Regarding both the boolits you mentioned, my thought was to start at 4 grains of Unique and go up 1/10th of a grain at a time until I achieved reliable function and velocity somewhere between 900-1,000 fps.

Regarding other powders, I have AA # 9, but don't want full house loads.

Not looking for load data, but just a place to start. Would you (or anyone else) care to comment on the wisdom of such a plan?

Obviously, due to the current situation, other powders may be difficult to obtain.

Thank you for your previous response and any further thoughts you may wish to share.

If you are not comfortable commenting on the use of Unique with these boolits I certainly understand your reticence.

exile
If you can get the 158grRN to seat properly & not be too long, it will take up a lot of powder space. I don't see why it wouldn't work, 147gr run fine, & Unique is fine with those bullets running 1000fps. Alliant says 6.6gr is max under a 147gr GDHP. Their wisdom is reduce 10% & work up, that is 6gr. So at 4gr, I bet you don't get good cycling, but certainly a place to start & then work it up 2/10gr at a time. A chrono will be helpful to see where you are going.

[exile]

Thanks again for the responses. I will proceed with caution.

exile

[gwpercle]

Give the NOE mould 358 - 124 - TC - Gas Check a try .
Can be sized .357 or .358 and the gas check allows magnum velocities .
I load this one with great results in 9mm Luger , 38 Super , 357 Magnum and 357 Herrett.

Boolits are cast 50-50 COWW - soft scrap lead , air cooled , sized and lubed .357 or .358 as required . The gas check and Lithi-Bee lube keep the leading away and allow 2100 fps in the Herrett . The softish boolit mushrooms like a J-word.

It should work like a charm in 357 SIG!
Gary

[McFred]

has anyone ever tried a 158 grain round nose flat point boolit in .357 Sig?

I have used 158gr RNFPBBs. Never hotrodded them though; just plinkers and they work fine. I used some surplus ball powder that's pretty close to AA#7. Never tried Unique with them.

https://i.postimg.cc/x8shsB8D/162rnfpbb.jpg

[exile]

Plinkers, my thoughts exactly! Thank you,

exile

[LRRifleman]

Greetings! I love an ongoing conversation!

I am looking to develop a cast load for the 357 Sig in a P229. Based on what I've recently read, the Lee 358-125RF sounds like a usable bullet, which will be powder coated. I have seen loads referencing the use of AA9, AA7. and Unique. I understand not posting charges, but I have a minor problem. I haven't been able to find any sources for data using cast bullets. Can someone that is loading cast bullets in the 357 Sig point me towards a reliable source of data, or share a safe starting load for the above powders?

As always, thanks in advance for your help!

[jessdigs]

I am not an experienced reloader/caster but the only cartridge I own but don't reload for is the .357 sig out of about 10 cartridges. The two reasons for this are the neck tension thing and my perceived risk of the .40S&W case bulge issue going on with the .357 sig cartridge. A visual inspection of my factory glock .357sig barrel shows it is definitely not supporting the case in the same way the .40S&W guys worry about for that cartridge. You may want to read up on this if you haven't already. I am sure there is a safe way to do it, but I know it is a much more risky round to reload than average due to these two factors.

I figure I'll reload it someday, but only after i learn the ropes on the more forgiving cartridges.What gen is your Glock?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[justindad]

Greetings! I love an ongoing conversation!

I am looking to develop a cast load for the 357 Sig in a P229. Based on what I've recently read, the Lee 358-125RF sounds like a usable bullet, which will be powder coated. I have seen loads referencing the use of AA9, AA7. and Unique. I understand not posting charges, but I have a minor problem. I haven't been able to find any sources for data using cast bullets. Can someone that is loading cast bullets in the 357 Sig point me towards a reliable source of data, or share a safe starting load for the above powders?

As always, thanks in advance for your help!

Ramshot has some load data for lead in a .357 SIG.

https://www.ramshot.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/WesternPowdersHandloadingGuide8.0_WEB.pdf

[44Blam]

I shoot the Accurate 35-125YG in my glock (with KKM barrel) and with a full case of AA#9, I'm sending those pills in the 1400 fps range.
I also use this same boolit in my 350 legend and am sending it in the 2500 fps range under a solid charge of W296...

[justindad]

The .357 SIG seems like it should use PC boolits instead of lubed. The lube groove can take up a lot of the neck length, if you happen to be able to keep the lube groove out of the powder (is that critical though?). I’m tinkering with lubed boolits, and I’ve used the 125 grain bullet from Hunter’s Supply with good results... but I still suspect that PC will ultimately be my choice here.

[Glwenzl]

300034

Thanks to the contributors of this (older) thread, I’m just now going down this road.

300035

[worker]

@dansedgli (sorry, I know this is an older post) -- but what mold are you sing for these 171s?
Also what powder charge, and is it powder coated, gas checked or plain?

I am interested in heavier weight setups for this, that's why asking
(I am using starline brass)

I shoot 171 grain projectiles in mine.

Very accurate out of a 2011 handgun.

I just use 40 cal brass necked down.

[Krh1326]

Did you guys see the other post, that LEE dropped a new 356-147-TC mold?