Chose For Elk

[leadman]

I was lucky enough to get a cow elk tag this year and was thinking about using a 30 caliber cast boolit. I have a Contender carbine in 30-30 that would be real easy to carry in the junipers and a left hand Savage 110CL 30-06 for sitting at water holes.
I have the following bullet molds in 30 cal. to choose from and am interested if anyone has hunting experience with these.
RCBS 30-150-SP (150gr)
Lyman 314299 (200gr)
Lyman 311291(175gr)

[krag35]

I happen to know for a fact that the 314299 out of a Nagant rifle will kill Elk. Would not be my first choice but it will do the job.

[Glen]

The 311291 is a very accurate bullet, and I'm told it has killed a bunch of game, but my first choice for elk would be the RCBS 30-180-GC FP bullet. It's got a better meplat for killing and it's got more bullet weight to dig deeper. I really like that bullet!

[Larry Gibson]

I would invest in a new mould with a large meplat for use on elk. The mentioned RCBS is a good one as is the Lyman 311041.

Larry Gibson

[jhalcott]

I have to agree with larry. Though I tend to go with heavy for caliber myself. Which of the molds that you have is the MOST accurate in YOUR guns is the first concern. The 311291 mold drops a 169 bullet from my alloy and is my second choice for deer. Its round nose doesn't impart enough shock to make it a 1st choice. IF you flat point it (or even hollow point it) It should be a better killer.

[454PB]

It's hard to type this as I slip my arms into my flame suit........

If I were in your shoes, I'd buy another, bigger barrel for hunting Elk. They are just too hard to find (and move once they are down) to use a marginal caliber. A 45/70 or thereabouts would be a much better choice. Yes, sometimes they only weigh 250 to 300 pounds, but I've shot several that weighed 500 to 600 pounds, and they are a tough animal. They always head into the worst terrain and thickest brush if not dropped on the spot.

[Ivantherussian03]

Check your hunting regs. In some states 30-30 is not legal for elk.

[JCherry]

Leadman,

What unit did you get? I got a cow elk permit for Unit 3A & 3C east 102408 - 103008.

Just how do you sneak up on elk in the junipers?

I figure the 30-30, while generally considered to be a bit light for elk, should do the trick in the junipers as it will be a very close, very fast shot with no chance of any second shot. Concerning types of rifles to hunt elk with, the Arizona Game Regs simply state "centerfire rifles" so legal wise a 30-30 is no problem.

One thing you must keep in mind in Arizona is that the elk are also on the distribution list for the Game Regs and therefore know where they should be so as not to get shot. For instance if it's bull season the only thing you'll see is cows of course during cow season we will only see bulls.

Have Fun,

JCherry

[leadman]

I was drawn for 5b North, will hunt north of Long Lake.
Getting close is not a problem in this area. I once walked up to less than 10 yards to a sleeping 5x6 bull, but I had a cow tag in my pocket. I consistently can get to within 40 yards of elk, sometimes closer.
I'm looking to put a little more challenge in the hunt and will only take shots at close range at a stationary animal. Can't use archery equipment anymore.
I also was thinking about using cast bullets with a pure lead nose. I cast a couple bullets of pure lead then cut the nose section off and put it back in the mold, then put the mold in the hot lead with the sprue plate open. When the pure lead nose melted I closed the sprue plate and filled the mold with WW. Seemed to work o.k. I need to do some more casting then testing before trying these.
If this doesn't work I have a Pedersoli Rem. Rolling block in 40-65 I can use.Sure is heavy though. Arthritis does not like that!

[leadman]

JCherry, forgot to answer your question on sneaking up on elk in the junipers.

I could not do this when I was young and frisky. Now that I can't walk as fast or as far this has become possible. You have to watch the wind(which always changes), the sun, and what is under your feet. I walk slowly with lots of stops. I also try not to walk in the open, I head for the next juniper in front of me then when I reach it I stop and look to the sides. Quite often I see elk doing this. If not then I walk to one side so I can see around the juniper and just stand there for a minute before I head to the next juniper.
It also is a big plus if you know where the elk are coming and going to water. The early afternoon is a good time to do this as lots of time the elk will start moving by 2 p.m.

Good luck on your hunt.

[jhalcott]

Lead man, those "softpoint" bullets work better than most guys think! BUT with only a 170 grain to start with and a 25 grain nose, you're left with a 140 grain "PARTITION" type bullet. At the 50 yard ranges you are trying for, it could work well! I've tried them in the 35 whelen with good results on DEER that weighed under 200 pounds. I'd use some wet and dry news paper to test penetration/expansion. Maybe one of those "Bullet Test Tubes" might tell a better story.http://www.cabelas.com/vprod-1/0054355.shtml

[leadman]

jhalcott, I am hoping I can get the 200gr. boolit up to around 2,000fps in the 30-06 for hunting. I know it does well in several of my rifles at about 1,600fps. I did flat point some today for future testing.
I have an unintentional habit of shooting the big joint in the shoulder and pushing it thru the animal. It is actually a very deadly shot but is hard on the stuff you want to eat.
After I get the speed and accuracy I am going to do some testing with newspaper.
I did try using cast .224 boolits to make softpopints with today by placing them in the mould and putting the mould in the pot. Took alot of time to melt the pure lead and even longer holding the mould in front of a fan to col it down. Might make a little dipper out of a pistol case for the pure lead.

[jhalcott]

I did it with the little dipper AND with the "melt a point method" and at 50 yards there wasn't enough difference in performance to warrant the extra time/effort melting the nose. I uded a 358315 mold and a cut off 9mm mini ladle. in the 35 rem and 358JDJ contenders results were the same with either method out to 100 yards. In the 35 whelen, I used a 358318 mold. There WAS some difference with this bullet/gun, but not enough to matter. In both cases the noses were about 8 BHN and the bases were 18 BHN. A control group of WW (13 BHN) were tried at 25 yards for penetration, accuracy tests were done at 50 and 100 yards.