gun oil and jammed rem 582 trigger

[chevyiron420]

What kind of gun oil won't dry out and get gummy? I have a Remington 582 that has it's trigger jammed up every time I go to use it, and have had some hand guns that were goo'ed up as well. The hand guns were like that when I bought them, but the 582 may be my fault. I inherited it from my brother and I dont know if it's something he used on it, or me. If there are oils out there that are bad about this I want to make sure I get rid of them!
Phil

[ryan28]

Only product I have ever used that gummed up a trigger was WD-40. Good for lots of things, but not triggers.

[PaulG67]

I have use Hoppes gun oil for many years and like it, never a problem on my guns. I have recently tried using Tetra Gun Lubricant but don't really like it because it must be shaken well as it has ingredients that separate when left sitting.WD-40 as we all know is not a lubricant but a water displacement agent. I use it quite a lot in the shop on my machines to prevent condensation, it works well for that.

[big bore 99]

I'd say Hoppes #9 too. It's been in use for many generations now.

[country gent]

Get some powder blaste in the spray can remove barreled action from stock and really blast out the trigger mechanisim canned air or and air compressor to dry repeat this a couple times. 22s are notorious for unburnt powder getting in the actions and triggers. Flush it good as above then sparing ly use a good oil CLP, Tetra, FP-10, Hoppes oil marvels all will work here. Put a few drops in 1 on each side of trigger one thru opening front and back one down sear let sit for 10 mins rolling 180* and let set gain. With low pressure on blow gun or canned air blow out the excess oil and wipe exterior clean and dry. This leaves just a thin even coat on the parts. reassemble. Excess oil can hold dust powder fouling unburnt powder and other crud making a paste that gets thicker and thicker till it starts binding.

[Mk42gunner]

Breakfree CLP will turn to varnish, at least the stuff we got in gallon jugs in the eighties would. I have been using Ed's Red and the ATF/Kerosene mix for gun oil the past several years.

Robert

[waksupi]

Ed's Red will do the job.

One of the worst is Remoil for gumming things up. WD 40 doesn't even need to be mentioned, as it is unintended, and unfit for the purpose.

[Vann]

I like Hoppes and Ballistol.

[chevyiron420]

I have had remoil. That may have done it. I have soaked the trigger and freed it up several times. It looks clean but after sitting for several months it does it again. Its like there is some varnish that I just cant soak and flush out. My son uses kroil a lot, do you think it would work ok?

[dubber123]

If it has a varnish buildup, it may require actual scraping to remove. I fixed a Model 70 that I was told needed a new trigger. They are about the simplest of triggers so I doubted it did. When I took it apart, it had a layer of yellow/brown varnish built up. Nothing I soaked it in would touch it. I ended up using a razor blade to scrape it off. I asked the owner what he used for oil. WD-40.

For what it is worth, I really like 0-W20 synthetic motor oil. It's as light as gun oil, never seems to dry out, and lubricates very well. Much cheaper than most gun oils too.

[w5pv]

I like Kanno Micro Lube,it will not gum up,It will get into places other oil will not.

[country gent]

At work and home for heavy hard oil bild ps and baked on oil and grease we would use easy off oven cleaner. spray it on and let work if possible a 100 wat light bulb on it close to warm it some. keep wet and flush out good with water then clean solvent and oil. If your solvent isnt clean you may be putting as much back in as your taking out. 2 solvent tanks helps alot one pre rough clean one finish clean. set a tank up with the pick up 6-8" from the bottom of the tank add 4-5" ofwater to fill most of that space. solvent foats on water most of the crud drops thru into the water layer, but disolved oils and greases may not.

[Lance Boyle]

Lots of oils will varnish up. Most dinosaur oils and WD40 will do so kind of quick. Synthetic oils in my experience do a lot better. Transmission fluid also seems to go a lot longer [the red stuff in Ed's red].

G96 synthetic gun oil was the first one recommended to my by my gunsmith when I complained about varnishing. He uses it in his work shop and I bought some. I also now use 0 weight synthetic motor oil. It's cheaper by far and is way beyond what a gun oil needs to do.

As far as cleaning varnish, a tooth brush and some non chlorinated brake cleaner [same as gun scrubber and much cheaper]. Even that may not get all the stuff in crevices if it's been there awhile. I had one M700 varmint rifle I hadn't touched in over a decade that was badly varnished up. I took the trigger off and sprayed the snot out of it and it cleaned up. A similar rifle, a Rem 40x .22 I got from CMP was in worse shape and probably was stored much longer with out trigger maintenance. I was picking crystalized and gellied oil out with a toothpick. Finally I just took the plunge and took the trigger pack apart, which is totally out on a limb for most. That was the only way I was going to get some of the crystalized stuff out of unreachable areas. I got it clean and all back together and works perfectly.

FWIW I am thinking a lot of those Remington accidental discharges could be related to that style trigger pack gumming up. The lighter you set it the less force you have making it work right. I remember when I took my 700V out of storage, it would fire but I didn't realize how slow it was. The 40x I could pull the trigger and the rimfire striker would drop 2 minutes later. That was gumming in the bolt too of course.

[w5pv]

Krano Microlube is advertised as creeping into spaces as small as one millionth of an inch and no buildup.I love it for my weapons.I first used it on a gritty trigger on a 1911 and it smoothed it out and I have been using it since.

[Mk42gunner]

An ultrasonic cleaner may be the easy way to clean out oil that has turned to varnish.

Maybe someone that has one could try it and report the results?

Robert

[fast ronnie]

I use Ed's red. It is a slightly modified version of Thatcher's lube. Whale oil was originally used but is somewhat difficult to obtain now for some obscure reason. (being silly)
The ingredients are:
1 part kerosine
1 part actetone
1 part mineral spirits
1 part Dexron 2 trans oil (last batch I made was Dexron 3)

Works well for cleaning inside and outside of firearms metal (don't use on wood)
If you leave out the acetone, it doesn't clean as well, but works well as a lube.
I always put the acetone in so that it cleans the old junk out as well as lubing things up and preventing rust.

[Blackwater]

I'm with those on the gumming up and "oil" choices, and the effects. When I was working part time with a local 'smith, I cleaned up 3 Win. M-12's that went through Hurricane Katrina and were partially under water for nearly 2 wks. before being retrieved. I was kind'a astounded that they hadn't rusted nearly as bad as I'd have suspected they would. Setting about to recondition and restore them as much as possible, I disassembled them completely, and boiled them in good, clean water to remove any and all salt possible left from the salty/brackish water that they'd suffered under. Then I set out to clean them from the inside out. I found I had to make custom sized flat steel scrapers to get out all the crud inside the inner raceways to get out all the VERY hard crud that had built up in them from being sprayed down with WD-40 and left to sit in the safe until next time. It literally took the steel scrapers to knock that hardened and very sticky stuff loose! Even the boiling in clear water hadn't touched them! So this caking up of any wax, dust, fouling and whatever else goes into making that stuff really CAN be problematic. The parts, worn from wear from many, many years' use, fit back in SO much better, and the looseness and easy operation after restoring them was unbelievable! The judge who owned them was astounded, and liked them better AFTER we'd done our work, than he had before, and they were in closer to original finishes. You gotta' love it when a judge leaves with a big ol' grin on his face!

Two of the best things you can do when dealing with this, ordinarily, is to spray the trigger down with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Just use them outside because the fumes aren't good for the human organism. And I mean spray them down to the point they're dripping liberally, too. Brake cleaner is the better of the two but costs more, and I'll use the cheaper carb cleaner if it appears all that's needed to get the job done. If it's as you describe, I'd use the brake cleaner, though, and I'd do this probably 3 or 4 times in succession, letting each one dry before doing it again. If this doesn't work, a scraper, as previously described, will be needed, and a complete disassembly of the trigger mechanism. Soaking overnight in a really, really good solvent also helps, too. Then reoil with a good, light synthetic oil/preservative, and be very sparing with what you spray on it thereafter.

We "moderns" like spray cans, because they're quick and easy, but they're not always good for guns. This is one place where a little understanding of all the different types and arrays of oils and solvents is understood, can go an awfully long way toward getting happiness instead of problems from our guns.

[Geezer in NH]

I wipe all the extra oil off no matter what kind it is. I have found spray bomb oils will get gooky as they get applied and left. Old trick by gunsmiths, to much is not better.

[egg250]

There is no oil that will absolutely not oxidize or gum up. Some (WD40) are more prone to gumming than others. I use Ed's Red in my shop although any available gun oil will be much better than WD40. I'm not knocking WD40 as it is an excellent light oil but it is just not suitable for use on most firearms.

[gnostic]

What kind of gun oil won't dry out and get gummy? I have a Remington 582 that has it's trigger jammed up every time I go to use it, and have had some hand guns that were goo'ed up as well. The hand guns were like that when I bought them, but the 582 may be my fault. I inherited it from my brother and I dont know if it's something he used on it, or me. If there are oils out there that are bad about this I want to make sure I get rid of them!
Phil

It was news for me too, but they say on AR's, not to put lube on the trigger or sear. Maybe that applies to all firearms as well. I think that bit of information came in the instructions for the JP trigger and speed hammer.

[EDG]

Brightbore solvent will leave your trigger looking like it had bee's wax packed into it.
One of my brothers got a Bright bore cleaning kit with that solvent and the trigger of every bolt gun wound up like that.
It just runs down the bore and down the bolt and collects in the trigger mechanisms of 700s and 788s. It would probably do the same on a 582.
I have never had that happen on any of my rifles and I have a 581 with the same trigger. But I use Hoppe's #9 for a bore solvent.


>>>>FWIW I am thinking a lot of those Remington accidental discharges could be related to that style trigger pack gumming up.<<<
I agree with this. I have had to degunk several triggers of used Remingtons where the cocking piece was following the bolt closed. They all had old varnish and wax in the mechanism. All worked fine after cleaning up.

[dakota]

Rem Oil

[chboats]

The best product I have found is Slip-2000. It is synthetic. I oiled a sewing machine and left is set for three years without it being used. No gumming. I bought Slip-2000 from Midway.

Carl

[victorfox]

i clean my guns with kerosene or mineral spirits then oil with synthtiv motor oil leftover from oil changes (fill the engine there's always 1/2 pint left). Also use silicone oil on some parts (pistol or pump slides), never had a jam.My judge was made in 2011 and I got it in december/15 NIB. First range session guess what cylinder spinned free. Washed with kerosene and oiled, after that cylinder locks nice for every shot. Seems the grease or whatever they put inside turned into a purplish gum and caused the malfunctions.

[leadman]

I have an old Rem 581 left hand 22 lr. Had the trigger gum up probably 15 years ago. I blasted it with carb cleaner and sprinkled moly in it. Haven't had an issue since and I shoot this gun alot.

[Citra47]

I have much better luck using synthetic "gun lubricants" - especially Eez-ox, to prevent gumming and protect metal. Depending on what part of the country you live in be careful when using synthetic motor lubes as they do nothing to prevent rust. I live in Florida and found that out the hard way.

[BK7saum]

If it has a varnish buildup, it may require actual scraping to remove. I fixed a Model 70 that I was told needed a new trigger. They are about the simplest of triggers so I doubted it did. When I took it apart, it had a layer of yellow/brown varnish built up. Nothing I soaked it in would touch it. I ended up using a razor blade to scrape it off. I asked the owner what he used for oil. WD-40.

For what it is worth, I really like 0-W20 synthetic motor oil. It's as light as gun oil, never seems to dry out, and lubricates very well. Much cheaper than most gun oils too.

About the best thing for removing WD-40 varnish is WD-40.

[izzyjoe]

I used marvel mistery oil years ago, and never had a problem with it gumming up! Now I use Moble 1 0w20 synthetic. A little oil goes a long way!

[victorfox]

I'm currently using 10w40 which my car requires but sometimes use regular motor oil (mineral), no problems till now.

[gwpercle]

Rem Oil is not too bad , it has a light oil base with micro Teflon particles, the light oil will dissipate leaving the Teflon. Supposed to not get gummy , if used sparingly.

Better for the internal lockworks is Liquid Wrench Dry lube. It is micro-Teflon particles suspended in an evaporative solution ( might be alcohol based ) , the Teflon particles leave a dry film that doesn't gum. Good to lube door locks with too !

I've had Break Free CLP, WD40 and Shooters Choice Gun Lube all go gummy on me. I like the Dry lube best .

The oil in both Rem-Oil and Marvel Mystery oil is mineral oil, it doesn't seem to get gummy and will dissipate over time.
A decent general purpose oil is ATF and Kerosene 50/50....but it does have a smell to it....haven't experienced any gumming with it though.

Gary

[SODAPOPMG]

the real reason that this happens is that the gun is a safe queen and just keeps getting oiled every so often
if it was taken out and shot regularly and gotten dirty enough to need cleaning on a regular basis this will not happen