Couple questions if I may

[Knarley]

I am in the market for a new rifle, I'm kinda dipping my toe in the water so to speak, but I am gonna jump in sooner or later.

I have some questions, seeing as how I have never ordered a "Customized" gun before. I'm looking at either a Shiloh or a C. Sharps.

If a person "up grades the wood, I notice with the "C" it lists butt stock, and further down butt stock & fore arm. Why would one just up grade 1/2 the wood? Same with Shiloh?
With Shiloh, if you order their gun you can get different finishes, or none. Do they actually send a gun out with an unfinished stock?
When talking tang sights, if you don't buy a tang sight set up from them, are the holes there for when you do?
An accent line on the barrel is extra, fine, what is it?
Just what is a "standard" octagon barrel? I would guess that a 14# barrel weighs 14#?
Maybe I'm just real "slow", like a steel butt plate is extra, the question is why would one put a rubber butt stock on a Sharps to begin with?

If some one here would be kind enough to help me out here, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Knarley

[Gunlaker]

The finish options on a Shiloh are upgrades. I've one with standard finish ( what you get if you don't specify anything ) and a couple of AA finish. The standard is nice, the AA is basically a bit shinier as it has more coats of oil.

Both manufacturers are drilled and tapped for tang sights even if you don't order them.

The wood grades on a Shiloh are generally nicer than at C. Sharps for a comparable grades. My C. Sharps rifles are all extra fancy, except the first two I ordered that are plain. C. Sharps extra fancy is good value for the dollar, and is a little bit nicer than what Shiloh calls semi-fancy. The Shiloh extra fancy grade is very nice, but maybe a bit too nice for a target rifle that can be out in the weather. My .40-65 Shiloh has extra fancy.

A standard octagon barrel is pretty light. Probably perfect for a hunting rifle, but for target rifles I like a heavy barrel. I have one standard weight 34" on a Shiloh in .45-70. It shoots very well despite the light barrel.

I'm not 100% certain that a 14# barreled rifle weighs 14#. I have a 30" 16# Shiloh, and my scale told me its around 15#. I've been told my others that theirs are heavier and that my scale is probably off. I've also seen the opposite said on the Shiloh forum. Regardless, it's heavier than legal weight for all but Tollofson class rules.

The original Sharps rifles could be ordered with a hard rubber buttplate. I have a Shiloh that I bought used ( the one with the std weight 34" barrel ) and it has a hard rubber buttplate. I would personally never order one that way, but it would help keep the weight down if you wanted that.

Chris.

[Knarley]

So do they just up grade the butt, or front as well?
I'm looking at getting a 38-55, so a lighter barrel might be the way to go.
And I really like that Shiloh makes their own barrels. I did some snooping around and kind of wonder about those "other" barrels.
Lots to think about,
Thanks for chiming in..........

Knarley

[country gent]

CAll them and talk to them ask your questions and let the people doing the rifle answer your questions. My last 2 rifles I only specified tapered octagon and finished weight range I wanted. Tapered octagon contour 30" length and 9 1/2-10 1/2 lbs on the last one. I opted for the extra fancy walnut option also. There are many options and upgrades available. Sights are another big option. Drilled and tapped for scope? which scope then? block spacing? I believe the tangs are drilled and tapped for the base you can order just the base also with no staff. ( Idid this on my last C Sharps as I have a long range soule rear here). You may end up doing some "adjusting" to get the staff angle right to see thru it. I have a thin face and cheeks so my head position ussually requires this. As to stock and forearm they have blanks for both and not alwways cut to make a "matching set" from the same tree area. They normally pick a set that do look good together. Wood finish can be what you want or unfinished lets you do the finish work your self rubbing as many coats of oil in as you want and they type you want. I believe most are using a form of tru oil now and its a nice easy to work with finish. Checkering can be a big expense or option and can add some time to the delivery. As can engraving. An accent line is where transitions are from round to octagon I believe. There ia a small round ring where the barrel buts to the reciever then the Tulip between it and the octagon section, if half round then a accent line or wedding band can be had at this transition also. There are many options just on the forend Brass, blued steel or no extrussions around screw head, schnable plain or peweter for end tips bedded un bedded. These are all choices or options. These are all diffrent with the diffrent builders so talking to them is important. Send an e-mail and ask. they may send e-mails to show the diffrences.

[Gunlaker]

So do they just up grade the butt, or front as well?
I'm looking at getting a 38-55, so a lighter barrel might be the way to go.
And I really like that Shiloh makes their own barrels. I did some snooping around and kind of wonder about those "other" barrels.
Lots to think about,
Thanks for chiming in..........

Knarley

I've never ordered with a different grade of wood on the buttsock vs. forearm. With Shiloh you just specify the grade you want and it covers both. I think it's the same for C. Sharps but it's been a while since I ordered from them, as CountryGent said, it's best to just call. They will also do other stuff like custom length of pull BTW. My last C. Sharps has 1/2" shorter length of pull. Shiloh can do the same. I think for a small fee they will also let you select the blank that the stock will be cut from.

Chris.

[Naphtali]

I own four Shiloh 1863s, mostly because C. Sharps does not offer a cap lock. I have a friend who owns several of C. Sharps and Shiloh 1874s, plus C. Sharps a High Wall and one of the first 20 C. Sharps Hepburns. Some have standard wood (always black walnut), some with higher grades of wood and wood finish (still always black walnut).

In all honesty, there isn't any noticeable difference in quality of metal or wood, nor in wood finishes between the two shops. What differences there are - and these mean absolutely zip for the shooter - is their respective methods of creating finished actions. Both use AISI 8620 for stressed action parts and most nominally stressed parts. Both use variations of color case hardening that is not - repeat NOT - a chemical case found on many Italian black powder long arms. C. Sharps machines parts from bar stock. Shiloh Sharps machines investment castings from their on-site foundry. This difference make no difference in quality or in meaningful strength of part. It is merely the preference of each shop and their machinery to achieve the result they both achieve.

Hope this helps.

[smoked turkey]

knarley you are taking the smart approach to ordering your very own custom rifle. I think you are very wise to ask those questions before you place your order. I also highly recommend you give a call to both C. Sharps and Shiloh and ask them your questions. I think from your own conversations with the folks at each place that you will come away with your own "gut feel" for where you want to spend your money for the rifle that best meets your expectations. My wife sometimes tell me..don't settle for what you don't really want. This is the time you are in the drivers seat. You may have to make some compromises along the way but you will do so with the knowledge that you made the right decision for you. You are the only one who can answer the question about upgraded wood for example. If it is important to you to have a nicely figured piece of wood on the forearm, by all means tell them that is a must for you and I'll wager they will be accommodating to you. If you don't ask you probably will not get exactly what you want. I received my rifle not so long back and wish I would have asked a few more questions. You are certainly on the right track to be a satisfied customer with whoever you do business with.