springfield 84c light firing pin hits

[whomeno]

ok, looking for a little advice. I have pulled firing pin and it measures 2" as it should. so I don't think it is the firing pin.
took bolt apart cleaned and polished in side of bolt. still some misfires. so I am thinking it has to be the main spring.
has anyone ran across a main spring that was bad? this rifle was built between 1936 and 1941. any and all advice is welcome.
Thanks

[Mk42gunner]

I can see a spring getting a bit weak after seventy five or eighty years. gpc has the mainspring for under $7.00, so since you already know how to take the bolt apart that sounds like the next step to me.

Robert

[243winxb]

Head space ,if not the spring. If the bolt handle is the locking lug, like on a Mossberg, wear can increase head space . The firing pin stop will keep the pin from fully reaching the cartridge. Close the bolt. Then push it forward. How much does it move forward?

[whomeno]

243winxb..... Closed the bolt,and trying pushing it forward. it dose not move it is locked tight

Mk42gunner.. I got a main spring on it's way, hope this is the problem

[pietro]

Mk42gunner.. I got a main spring on it's way, hope this is the problem





I hope it's the solution........ :bigsmyl2:


.

[whomeno]

ok Guys,
I got the main spring installed, the new one was 1 coil longer. took it out and tried it. same thing, so I guess I will order a new firing pin. but what gets me is the caseings have a good dent to them now, so is there something else I'm missing

[country gent]

Look at the chamber where the firing pin hits. SOmetimes from dry firng or just use a small "dent wears in there and acts as a cushin to the blow. Look at rims and see if a distortion shows on the front of the rim under the fir pin strike. Yes old springs can get weak. Or springs that have been left under compression for long periods. Another thing is to look at thefiring pin where the spring bears for wear. Check the tip for chips and thin edge also. Look at indentation for solid even hit

[MtGun44]

Most .22s have some sort of a firing pin stop, often a cross pin in a hole
in the firing pin, to stop the firing pin short of hitting the edge of the chamber
and damaging it.

First thing to look for on a light strike .22 is a firing pin beaten short by just a hair
over the years. Find the firing pin stop and SLIGHTLY let the firing pin move
farther before being stopped. Sometimes two or three gentle file strokes is all
it takes on the stop or inside the hole in the firing pin (often flat) to let it go
a few thousands farther forward.

Bill

[John 242]

Lots of good advice so far. Along with the ideas mentioned above, sometimes modifying the tip of the firing pin will help with light strikes.


166947

166948

Here's another good one-
166949

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Most .22s have some sort of a firing pin stop, often a cross pin in a hole
in the firing pin, to stop the firing pin short of hitting the edge of the chamber
and damaging it.

First thing to look for on a light strike .22 is a firing pin beaten short by just a hair
over the years. Find the firing pin stop and SLIGHTLY let the firing pin move
farther before being stopped. Sometimes two or three gentle file strokes is all
it takes on the stop or inside the hole in the firing pin (often flat) to let it go
a few thousands farther forward.

Bill

Just about any good .22 has some sort of firing-pin stop, but it can get indented over the decades, particularly if the rifle has been dry-fired, and particularly if the stop is only a pin which a file will cut. If the chamber edge is indented, filing the stop to let the firing-pin drive the rim into that dent may work, but is far from an ideal solution, as that deformation does a bit of cushioning of the impact.

Brownells used to sell a tool for ironing out such a dent, and most likely still do. It is just a hardened steel pin the size of the chamber, with a flat on one side. You simply slip it into the chamber and turn it. It is probably expensive for one-time use, so I would try the butt of a No. 1 drill or a piece of 7/32 steel rod, padded as required with pieces of the adhesive copper strip I use to stop slugs climbing into my strawberry pots.

If that didn't work, and the rifle was valuable enough to justify a bit of trouble, I would remove the barrel, cut a new "rim" recess about a sixteenth of an inch deeper than the original one, and silver solder a steel ring in place. the inside must be flush with the chamber wall or a tiny bit wider, though.

[44man]

One thing all of you forget. .22 ammo today can suck. friends come to shoot and every .22 will have failures. 10-22's and even mark II's. I find many unfired cases on the ground when they leave. Good dents but no primer compound where the pin hit. Bulk ammo will sound different from shot to shot and many will not go off at all. Is it the gun? Turn the round and try again, if it goes off, it is the ammo.