PDA

View Full Version : Clover Lapping Compound



RedHawk357Mag
04-04-2016, 05:51 PM
Awhile back I got this idea to lap out some constrictions in a couple of my Redhawks. Finding Lapping Compound was a bugger. I didn't want to use a similar product, I wanted to use the exact stuff that was used by the folks I got the directions from. Worked like a charm. Thing is I bought 16 ounces of it. It takes roughly a teaspoon to embed enough grit to do a Ruger. Most other guns SHOULD take even less to remove constrictions. Anyways I will send you enough to knock out your firelapping. Don't know how often folks do this as for me I took it to be voodoo and I was certainly nervous doing mine but I took it slow, cleaned religiously, measured often and cautiously. Absolutely positive results. Anyways it's silicone carbide in grease. Made by Clover/Loctite. You will probably need both grits. I have 280 and 320. I will send you a dollop of each. Saves you the cost and shipping and your heirs won't be left with cans of stuff they have no idea about. 165372165373

Outpost75
04-04-2016, 05:54 PM
That is the right stuff, I have used it for years for hand lapping.

I prefer hand lapping to fire lapping, but I was taught how to do so by the late Homer L. Culver.

But to remove thread choke in a revolver only, it will do a good job.

RedHawk357Mag
04-06-2016, 11:02 AM
http://www.gunblast.com/FerminGarza-Firelapping.htm

This and the Marshell Stanton book is where I got the info.

smokeywolf
04-06-2016, 11:10 AM
Clover is good stuff and found widely in machine shops. I prefer "Timesaver" myself. Don't know about Clover, but Timesaver also has lapping compound for soft metals like brass and aluminum.

w5pv
04-07-2016, 10:58 AM
Clover has anything from E grit to finest lab grade compounds.I have used their product for many years with good results.

Char-Gar
04-07-2016, 12:46 PM
I bought my first Clover abrasive paste, back in 1969. I keep it in 220, 320 and 600 grit around the shop. It is very useful stuff.

Mytmousemalibu
04-07-2016, 02:49 PM
Hey, if you get stripped screws or stuff that feels dangerously tight, put a little on the tip of your screwdriver/bit. Works like a peach on phillips, allen, torx, etc. Lapping compound is a lifesaver in aviation for all the screws we have that try to cam-out on us. Good stuff!

Smoke4320
04-07-2016, 03:15 PM
Hey, if you get stripped screws or stuff that feels dangerously tight, put a little on the tip of your screwdriver/bit. Works like a peach on phillips, allen, torx, etc. Lapping compound is a lifesaver in aviation for all the screws we have that try to cam-out on us. Good stuff!

OK This one is new to me .. Are you saying to add/dip the tip of the screwdriver in lapping compound and it will help the tip not slip in the buggered screw slot ?

farmerjim
04-07-2016, 03:56 PM
What Smoke 4320 asked. Inquiring minds want to know.

Mytmousemalibu
04-07-2016, 07:53 PM
YES! You can put a dab on the tip of the bit, what ever kind it may be, or smear a little in the screw head. That grit adds a lot of bite and can help you back tight fasteners out without stripping the head out. Sometimes this can save you with an already buggered up screw and save you from drilling it out! It won't save everything but it works very well most of the time! On the jets I work on, there's a lot of phillips head screws, coated/plated ones, corrosion resistant, titanium, monel, etc. There's a lot of times these screws get galled in or the nut plates get boogered up. Often they suck to drill out or change the nut plates. We have to go to the extreme of using true tungsten carbide twist drills on the exotic metals to drill them, they will roast anything less. Those carbide drills are on the order of $30 per drill bit! So we take great steps to avoid that mess and lapping compound is a savior!

imashooter2
04-07-2016, 09:30 PM
Well I'm convinced. I'd love to have some.

RedHawk357Mag
04-08-2016, 08:57 AM
Got a couple packages out for delivery now. I am testing my packaging skills against the post office. Got a couple more requests going out once I determine packaging holds up.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

toallmy
04-08-2016, 04:27 PM
One is coming for me , and i am going to try my hand at fire lapping a revolver .

toallmy
04-09-2016, 05:53 PM
I received the package , it was in perfect condition inside and out .

RedHawk357Mag
04-09-2016, 11:33 PM
Cool thanks for putting that up.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

dsh1106
04-13-2016, 08:01 PM
RH357M

Will this work on my dippin a$$ lee lead pot ???

If so I'd love to give it a try.

I'll PM you.

Ole Joe Clarke
04-13-2016, 09:57 PM
What grit should I use to lap an UNDERSIZE LEE 6 cavity boolit aluminum mold?

Have a blessed day,

Leon

RedHawk357Mag
04-14-2016, 07:27 PM
For a steel mold the 320 would work. Guessing on a Lee aluminum probably 600 would be your huckleberry. I don't have personal experience on that though.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

RedHawk357Mag
04-14-2016, 07:42 PM
For a lee pot I think a medium fine compound would be fine. I added big honking washers to the wooden actuator knob on my pot. That helped a bunch. I get an occasional drip but nothing that elects more than "hmmm... There's a drip" I keep a cold ingot handy, 2 lber, to freeze the pot should it run away from me. I also have my pot sitting in an old oven pan in case it let's go when I am doing something else momentarily. I render my lead in separate pots as well so I don't get much debris caught in the valve.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

toallmy
04-14-2016, 08:10 PM
Ole Joe Clarke it won't take much to open up a aluminum mold 1-2 thousandth . Probably can do that with Ajax or comet by hand . Trick will be getting all 6 the same .

Ole Joe Clarke
04-17-2016, 09:16 PM
Thanks for the input folks.

Have a blessed rest of the day,

Leon