Redfield receiver sight mounting

[AbitNutz]

I came across a nice, Redfield BR-80 sight that will fit a Remington 760 I have. The 760 is drilled and tapped for a scope but not for a receiver sight. I don't see how this can possibly go on without drilling and tapping two holes. This sight has no directions. I'm wondering if there was a template or something like that for positioning the sight correctly...

This rifle is nothing special. It is chambered in, of all things, 35 Remington so it's definitely short range and I have no intention of adding scope.

Anyone done this before? Any info you can give me? I have a drill press and decent tap set in the appropriate size/pitch but have never done this before.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Well, the counsel of perfection is one of these. But the only time I ever got an infraction on this site was for posting an eBay URL. You can find them easily enough by searching for V-drill guide, and looking at "seller's other items". I think you would get by with a drill guide alone, and using it as a guide to keep the tap vertical.

165341

But it is an expensive item if you will use it only once. I would get some K&S brass tubing which closely fits the holes in the sight, to allow for a hole as close as possible to tapping diameter for the drill, although you might have to enlarge it with a slightly larger drill. I would temporarily epoxy the sight with inserted bits of tubing, to use it as its own template. It will come off without harming the action with a little heat, and a sharp-edged piece of brass or aluminium will scrape away any remaining epoxy while it is soft.

[pietro]

I came across a nice, Redfield BR-80 sight that will fit a Remington 760 I have. The 760 is drilled and tapped for a scope but not for a receiver sight.
I don't see how this can possibly go on without drilling and tapping two holes.
This sight has no directions.

I'm wondering if there was a template or something like that for positioning the sight correctly...

Anyone done this before? Any info you can give me?




No template is required, as the sight base can be used as a drill guide.

1) w/o the 6-48 (thread) sight base screws, move the elevation position of the receiver sight to it's midway position (all the way up/down), to allow for the leeway needed to zero the rifle.


2) position the receiver sight manually on the receiver, with the sighting aperture aligned with the barrel sights, in a position that will easily accommodate your personal ergonomics (long/short neck, thick/thin cheek, etc, etc) - temporarily mark the receiver (masking tape) around the outside front/rear/lower edge of the receiver sight's base.


3) remove the sighting bar from the sight base & clamp the base in the position you/ve marked out.


4) ensuing that the top edge of the sight base is level/parallel to the bore, using the sight base as a guide, drill the receiver (#31 drill bit) for only ONE of the two sight base screws (which one doesn't matter), remove the base & tap the single hole 6-48.

5) re-install the sight base on the receiver, securing it with the single screw you're already D/T'd for.

6) re-check that the top of the base is level, and D/T the second hole the same way the first hole was D/T'd.

7) Clean up the masking tape, de-grease both receiver & base screw threads, and install the sight base - using a thread locker (blue Loc-Tite) on the two screw threads.

Done.


.

[gnoahhh]

Bingo. That's exactly how I do it.

[AbitNutz]

Oh my God! Thank you Pietro! I needed that step by step so badly.



No template is required, as the sight base can be used as a drill guide.

1) w/o the 6-48 (thread) sight base screws, move the elevation position of the receiver sight to it's midway position (all the way up/down), to allow for the leeway needed to zero the rifle.


2) position the receiver sight manually on the receiver, with the sighting aperture aligned with the barrel sights, in a position that will easily accommodate your personal ergonomics (long/short neck, thick/thin cheek, etc, etc) - temporarily mark the receiver (masking tape) around the outside front/rear/lower edge of the receiver sight's base.


3) remove the sighting bar from the sight base & clamp the base in the position you/ve marked out.


4) ensuing that the top edge of the sight base is level/parallel to the bore, using the sight base as a guide, drill the receiver (#31 drill bit) for only ONE of the two sight base screws (which one doesn't matter), remove the base & tap the single hole 6-48.

5) re-install the sight base on the receiver, securing it with the single screw you're already D/T'd for.

6) re-check that the top of the base is level, and D/T the second hole the same way the first hole was D/T'd.

7) Clean up the masking tape, de-grease both receiver & base screw threads, and install the sight base - using a thread locker (blue Loc-Tite) on the two screw threads.

Done.


.

[castalott]

That's how I do it too except: I do it all in a drill press. It takes one diameter drill bit to properly fit the sight holes to just make a mark on the receiver. Remove sight without moving receiver. Change to proper drill size to tap. Drill tap hole with drill press. Unplug power to drill press and change to the proper tap. Turning the pulley by hand, lower the tap to the hole you just drilled ( remember your tapping fluid) and tap the hole. After a few threads, you don't need to apply pressure on the handle. The press will keep the tap straight. When finished, mount sight to gun and do the second hole.

This is really easy if you think about it...

[AbitNutz]

I think I'll try that too. I never thought of putting the tap in the drill press and turning it by hand.


That's how I do it too except: I do it all in a drill press. It takes one diameter drill bit to properly fit the sight holes to just make a mark on the receiver. Remove sight without moving receiver. Change to proper drill size to tap. Drill tap hole with drill press. Unplug power to drill press and change to the proper tap. Turning the pulley by hand, lower the tap to the hole you just drilled ( remember your tapping fluid) and tap the hole. After a few threads, you don't need to apply pressure on the handle. The press will keep the tap straight. When finished, mount sight to gun and do the second hole.

This is really easy if you think about it...

[EDG]

It is easier to put a drill a 60 degree center in your tap handle and a small center in the drill chuck. Then hold a little down pressure on the drill press handle and turn the tap handle with the other hand. It gives you much better feel and it is easier to back up the tap to clear the chips.

You might look at the Williams Guide sight. It mounts on the top of the reciever using the two rear most scope mounting holes.

[AbitNutz]

I did look at the Williams sight. I didn't like how far forward it mounted.

[country gent]

I dont believe I would set it half way when setting up to install it as this may use up alot of elevation on the sight before its even zeroed. Another way of doing this is alighn the barrel sights on a target with the rifle mounted in a solid rest or sand bags. Place a piece of double faced carpet tape on the reciever where its going to be and set the rear sight 1 1 1/2 mins from bottom. alighn on the tape so its zero is close to the existing sights and press into tape. trim tape to edges of sight and mark 2 edges of sights alighnment. you can then transfer punch thru the holes, or glue sight in position and drill thru. Giving up half the elevation as stated above would be an issue for me as I like my sights lower and as much elevation as possible, especially with the high trajectory rounds. If nothing else keeping the sight down provides a better cheek weld when shooting. You paid for that elevation any below the zero you never get to use.

[AbitNutz]

I just thought of something...why can't I use my Wheeler laser bore sighter like do with my rifle scopes? It sticks on the muzzle with a magnet and then you just sight the scope in. The laser is BRIGHT green so it's a piece of cake to see it.

Put it in my gun vise, stick the laser on the end and then tape the receiver sight on and see where it needs to be...

whadya think?

[country gent]

Okay now your throwing more equipment into the mix on us. LOL Yes that will work well set the laser, make sure it corresponds to the iron sights then alighn the redifield to the dot. Should work great.

[AbitNutz]

Well, it turned out to be no big deal. I was concerned that the receiver of the Remington 760 might be too hard for the #31 drill I had. No worries there. It was kind of disconcerting how easily the drill went through...like butter. I then used a 6-48 tap locked in the drill press jaws. That technique worked flawlessly, nice clean threads. The screws holding the sight tightened nicely.

The use of the drill press to tap the holes is really the way to go if you have a choice.

[country gent]

Using the drill press helps in sevreral ways when tapping with small taps. If done with the part clamped after drilling alighnment is much better. Squareness of the tap to the hole is much better. And it dosnt allow the tap to be bent ( big reason for small tap breakage) or wiggled when turnning. The drill press or end mill is a ready made tap jig just waiting to be utilized. Our end mills and drill presses all had a piece of round stock 4-6" lomg on them that fit snugly into the key holes in their chucks to use turn the chuck when tapping. Was quick simple and easy.