Repairing a stock on a 8 gauge shotgun

[KA0811]

Hey guys, not sure if this is where to post this but would like a bit of advice. I have an C.S. Shattuck "American" 8ga shotgun/punt gun. Mfg 1887. It's in fair condition. Damascus bbl. But has steel or iron breach section. It had the stock wrapped at wrist and after tearing it down I found that the wrist/ take area has some cracks( I figured as much). Most likely due to poor fit/inletting around tang. Anyways I would like to fix the stock. I have experience with gun and stock work. However I wanted to keep it looking original patina etc. And I thinking refinishing stock would kill that look. But if I just put pins and acra glas/epoxy it without finishing it. Then the cracks will be obvious and ruin the look. ( I think). Anyways looking for some tips or ideas/ suggestions. I know there's plenty of experienced people on this forum.

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[Texas by God]

What a cool shotgun! I would Dremel out little brace/lock recesses INSIDE the cleaned cracked areas then Jb weld/ clamp them together seperatley. Wipe off excess then steel wool outside wood to an old satin look. Then hang it up with some decoys and have a toast to Americana!!

[Mk42gunner]

Here is what I would do: Carefully degrease the cracked ares by repeated applications of solvent, (acetone, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, etc.), followed by letting it dry thoroughly. You do not want any more pieces separating if you can help it.

See if you can open the splits slightly, if so that will help. If not, it isn't the end of the world.

Get some surgical tubing or a strip of innertube to use as a clamp, then use a slow setting epoxy that has been colored slightly lighter than the wood.

Use an air compressor and blow gun to work the epoxy as deep into the cracks as possible before clamping.

Tape around the cracks to help with cleanup after the excess epoxy oozes out when clamped.

Once the glue has cured, trim the excess then put a light coat of boiled linseed oil on the stock and you are done.

If you plan to fire that antique, I would make sure to bed the stock to the receiver. Personally, I think I would use it as a wall hanger.

Robert

[Mytmousemalibu]

I can't say with much experience on the subject matter but I repaired a split wrist much like this one, on a little Stevens .410 for a friend with Acraglas only and it turned out pretty good. The coloring die is quite strong! It just took the tiniest dot of it to color match. You can still see the crack but it's faint. I did refinish the stock though too.

Cool old gun though, those old damascus barrels sure are pretty! Is this actually a "punt" gun or is it really a kiln gun?

[KA0811]

I guess it was consider a punt gun from some stuff I looked up... Not much info on these... Only made bout 900.when I got the gun the guy gave me about 13 brass shells for it. They are back at my fathers in NY hopefully they are still there... Always wanted to make a display. They are Huge. All brass and well over 3 inche.

Mk42..what you outlined was pretty close to my thinking. Aside from using pins. On the left side I prob could get by without but on the right I think it'll need it. Then I can leave 1/8" or so of the brass pin sticking out to help glue the chip back in.I have some surgical tubing... Any suggestions on how I could get the cracks lined up flush. I tried using a block where the tang would go but the taper was messing it up. And the actual tang fits like ****... Though about needing it. On the inside already so will be unseen

[KA0811]

Mk42.. What do you use to color your epoxy?

[Mk42gunner]

Years ago I bought a little jar of brown accraglas dye from Brownell's. I don't remember how much is supposed to be in it, but the jar is about the size of a small coffee measure, so about two tablespoons? Anyway it is a lifetime supply for me and probably the next two generation of my family, it does not take very much to color accraglas gel, for clear epoxy it takes even less.

When I said not very much, I meant dip a toothpick in about 1/8" for more than enough color to do your repair.

I don't really think that is a punt gun; it looks like it was meant to be shoulder fired, not mounted to a gunwale.

As far as aligning up the loose pieces; how about making a dummy receiver tang out of wood, then taping it and coating it with a release agent such as wax?

Robert

[Mytmousemalibu]

I don't really think that is a punt gun; it looks like it was meant to be shoulder fired, not mounted to a gunwale.

As far as aligning up the loose pieces; how about making a dummy receiver tang out of wood, then taping it and coating it with a release agent such as wax?

Robert

Thats what I was thinking about it being a punt gun too, again I am no expert in that field but from observation alone, its a pretty short for gauge, very rugged, industrial looking break action, single shot. Like Mk42 noted, looks like it was meant to be shouldered and all the pictures of punt guns I have seen, the barrels are very long and have a stock for a gunwale fixture. It would be a neat thing to fire if the barrel integrity it all there but I would probably flinch! A guy could probably simulate this with a 12ga or 10ga double with the hottest/biggest loads around and fire both barrels! I have heard those kiln guns are no joke to fire, feared by the guys that had to use them! I may be wrong but I think Ithaca had some old doubles that looked like damascus barrels but they actually were not and can handle mild smokeless loads, might be worth investigating if it is true damascus.

[Geezer in NH]

An 8 gauge is not called a punt gun. It may have been used in a punt to kill the cripples that a Punt gun made but it is not a punt gun.

Epoxy and pins or make a new butt stock.