Temp Chart

[Chris C]

I'm a new caster. Can't find the answer to this question through searches, so thought I'd openly display my lack of knowledge. :oops:

Is there a chart that gives approximate casting temperatures for different weight bullets? I will be casting anywhere from 170 gr to 540 gr bullets for my various pistols and rifles.

[Goose18557]

The makeup of your alloy has more to do with temps than the size of your bullets

[Chris C]

I'm using a Lyman #2 lead.

[Dusty Bannister]

Not sure how you worded your search but here is the Search Results for "what is the casting temperature for Lyman #2"

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/google.php?cx=partner-pub-6216953551359885%3A1942134700&cof=FORID%3A9&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=What+is+the+casting+temperature+for+Lyman+%232&sa.x=8&sa.y=8&siteurl=castboolits.gunloads.com%2Fshowthread.php% 3F302622-Temp-Chart&ref=castboolits.gunloads.com%2Fforumdisplay.php%3F 8-Cast-Boolits&ss=10966j6956876j47

This will give you threads that include the size of the bullets and probably a lot of other information that will clear up your confusion. Good luck.

[Chris C]

Thanks, Dusty. I never seem to ask a search engine the right questions. I'll check out the link.

[Toymaker]

Chris, first make sure you have an accurate means of measuring your temperature. When I finally changed from a thermometer to a PID I discovered I'd been casting at 50° F higher than I thought. Curious I double checked with the thermocouple on my multimeter. Yep, 50° F too high.
Generally, start at 750°F. I've found that's a good place for all the roundball and bullets I cast that are in your weight range. As mentioned above your alloy is an important factor also. I have one muzzle loader that only likes pure lead bullets that weigh 500 grains. I have to boost my temperature up to about 800°F to get good fill out.
So play with it a bit - the goal is to get good fill out. All part of the learning curve and its a good bunch here for answering questions.

[Yodogsandman]

A good "rule of thumb" is to cast at about 100*F-150*F above the temperature where the alloy is fully melted in your pot. So, if your alloy was melted at 600*F, heat the alloy to between 700*F and 750*F to cast with. This just get's you close, you still have to fine tune for your situation. Like ambient air temp, big or small mold or maybe casting cadence.

[Chris C]

Thanks, guys. My PID gives me pretty tight tolerances. I just wanted some idea as to whether or not different temps were needed for different weight bullets.

[Randy C]

Like others have said alloy and bullet weight along with what your mould is made of and how many cavity's you are pouring make a difference, It takes trial and error for me to get them wright, Keep notes for when you hit a sweet spot, for your next casting session.

[44man]

I just set my Lee pot to 750 on the dial and it is close with a thermometer. All boolit sizes are controlled by the cadence of casting. No matter up to 564 gr boolits.
Pure lead gets turned to 800°.
I ladle cast, can't stand bottom pour.
I like a PID but all I built burned up on me. Choking voltage and amps, makes heat. I can't afford to buy a good one yet.
Pot temps are not that important.
Been a bad year, gutters drove me nuts getting plugged so I had to go on the roof or a ladder 20 times a year, not good at 78. Cost over $5000 for Leaf Guards.
Washer and dryer failed, more money. Now I need the timing belt in my 4 Runner replaced, scares me to drive it when over 40,000 over belt life. I lost my PBGC deduction with the state, Whacked me $543. It never ends for a happy home owner.

[Doc Highwall]

Not only alloy but how many cavities the mould has, and how it is vented including how tight the sprue plate is. The air in the mould cavities has to escape through the vents, and how fast you pour the lead into the mould affects how fast the air has to escape.

As 44man has mentioned casting cadence makes a big difference upon mould temperature.

After you find out what works, WRITE DOWN EVERYTHING THAT YOU DID!

[tja6435]

I just set my Lee pot to 750 on the dial and it is close with a thermometer. All boolit sizes are controlled by the cadence of casting. No matter up to 564 gr boolits.
Pure lead gets turned to 800°.
I ladle cast, can't stand bottom pour.
I like a PID but all I built burned up on me. Choking voltage and amps, makes heat. I can't afford to buy a good one yet.
Pot temps are not that important.
Been a bad year, gutters drove me nuts getting plugged so I had to go on the roof or a ladder 20 times a year, not good at 78. Cost over $5000 for Leaf Guards.
Washer and dryer failed, more money. Now I need the timing belt in my 4 Runner replaced, scares me to drive it when over 40,000 over belt life. I lost my PBGC deduction with the state, Whacked me $543. It never ends for a happy home owner.

Does your 4Runner have the 4 cylinder engine? The timing belts aren't too hard to change out, but I am just over half your age. One thing for sure, if you're driving and the engine just dies, DO NOT crank the engine and try to start it again until you're positive the timing belt hasn't broken. I had a 92 Celica with a 2.2l engine. Around 175k the factory timing belt went. I knew what it was when I was driving and the engine just died out of nowhere. I had it towed and put the timing belt on myself. The dealership wanted $600. I did it for under $150 including a new water pump (as they are under the timing belt cover). The hardest part was lining up both cams and the crank for top dead center. Otherwise it was just a take it apart and put it back together situation. I did use rtv instead of the water pump gasket.

[44man]

I have the 6 cylinder. It will break if the belt goes. I have a kit coming from Rock Auto and might do it my self if my knees let me get up and down.