1858 Remington build

[tbx-4]

Just picked up a Richland Arms 1859* Remington New Army Revolver kit. It has date codes of 188 on the frame and barrel... That should be Jan 1988. Yes, it's the less desirable brass frame model but since it was complete in the box and untouched I thought $85 wasn't too bad of a deal.

I built a TC Hawken .50 cal kit some 36 years ago and a 1.25 cal cannon about 25 years back. Always wanted to try a revolver.

I must say the quality of the brass casting could have been better. It is what it is...

http://i.imgur.com/WqdHut4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/j015KvF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/VBZbKKF.jpg

[tbx-4]

Tore it all down to work on it and inspect all the parts.

http://i.imgur.com/6Qi0qsH.jpg

A couple files, cheap Chines moto tool, sand paper and a couple hours of work has the frame, trigger guard and grips shaping up nicely.

http://i.imgur.com/1y7vHSL.jpg

[tbx-4]

The biggest problem with this gun is that there are pits in the brass that if ground out would affect appearance and possibly cause the frame to fail... My thought was to fill them with something... polish, then paint the frame black. Thought about using JB Weld epoxy but it cures so slowly that it has a tendency to drip if not on a flat surface...

I would like to have this as a shooter and understand it will only be for black powder, light to medium loads. No max loads and no cartridge conversion.

Any suggestions?

[dondiego]

Shoot it!

[tbx-4]

But I want it purdy!

[prsman23]

It already is.

[Walkingwolf]

The biggest problem with this gun is that there are pits in the brass that if ground out would affect appearance and possibly cause the frame to fail... My thought was to fill them with something... polish, then paint the frame black. Thought about using JB Weld epoxy but it cures so slowly that it has a tendency to drip if not on a flat surface...

I would like to have this as a shooter and understand it will only be for black powder, light to medium loads. No max loads and no cartridge conversion.

Any suggestions?

Brass has pits when it is cast, then the factory polish the pits out. On a kit gun they leave that for you to do, gun should be safe polished to factory shine.

[adrians]

Brass has pits when it is cast, then the factory polish the pits out. On a kit gun they leave that for you to do, gun should be safe polished to factory shine.

Yup polish up on a kit gun thats your job, although it looks good from here.
188 is probably a part number , if it was a 1988 made gun it would have a rectangle with an " AT" inside.

Like dondiego say's === shoot it.

[bigted]

Or you could antique it and dull the brass as well as give all steel parts a vinegar finish for a total antique look. Then any imperfections would fit the total look and appearance of the remmy.

Then as suggested ... Shoot the snot outta it ... And the revolver should withstand any 2fg load the cylinder will hold.

[bigted]

Vinigar finish.

Soak the steel parts in vinegar for about 2 or 3 hours ... Now take part out and rub down with a rag ... If not a natural grey look then resoak for another hour or so.

This finish has been as tough as any other I have. I have it on two other BP guns with this finish and they withstand the weather and elements well.

[tbx-4]

Ok guys, thanks for the comments.

The 1858 Remington had a steel frame not brass so bright shiny or antiqued brass still don't look right for this gun.

And the pits can't be polished out... well, I guess with enough time... but they really need to be ground out then polished. Some aren't really pits but cavities.

The photos make it look a lot better than it is or I'm just too picky I guess.

[dondiego]

It says it is an 1859 on the box. What's up with that?

[adrians]

:guntootsmiley: Sure does ,,, :guntootsmiley:

[Walkingwolf]

Ok guys, thanks for the comments.

The 1858 Remington had a steel frame not brass so bright shiny or antiqued brass still don't look right for this gun.

And the pits can't be polished out... well, I guess with enough time... but they really need to be ground out then polished. Some aren't really pits but cavities.

The photos make it look a lot better than it is or I'm just too picky I guess.

Then just shoot it, but honestly all brass frames start out this way. In the factory they machine polish the frames, it causes a melding effect without taking off too much metal. No you can't just grind them out, they need to be melded into the frame. That takes a lot of polishing which can be done with a bench grinder with a polishing wheel. Tight spots will need to be done by hand.

[mazo kid]

IMO, Richland Arms imported lower quality guns, maybe even seconds? If you do patch those "cavities" you can then use cold bluing to blacken the brass, rather than paint, if that is your wish. Maybe that "1859" designation is just their way of saying it isn't a true rendition of the Remington model?

[tbx-4]

mazo kid,
you got it right. They call it an 1859 because it's not a true replica. After all it has a brass frame. Remington made only an 1858 steel frame model. No such thing as an 1859 Remington, except in the mind of Italian gun makers.

[tbx-4]

Done!

http://i.imgur.com/MmzXZAo.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/lSzMpP0.jpg

[dondiego]

Very well done!

[RhodeHunter]

Nice looking. So is it paint, or cold bluing?

[tbx-4]

Paint.
A ceramic based high temp engine paint. Once prepped, I warm the part then apply paint. Bake out at 350* for two hours. I've used this on three other guns with great success. This is the first time I've tried it on brass.

The paint also hides a lot of imperfections and smooths out the finish.

[Old Scribe]

Nice looking job.

[tbx-4]

A few more details.
Used a file and emery cloth to remove the milling marks from the barrel and loading lever. Also rounded and smoothed the outside edges of the muzzel. Using a bronze stove bolt in a drill motor and valve grinding compound put a nice crown on on it too. Three applications of Perma Blue was used to finish it all off.

The stocks were shaped in the conventional way with wood rasp and sand paper. I use a mixture of BLO, turpentine and bees wax for preservation and it looks good too.

Maybe 16 hours total work time. Took less time then I expected.

[adrians]

:awesome:

[StrawHat]

Actually, the 1858 designation is somewhat fictitious also as it refers to the last patent date on the revolver. I do not recall the correct designation but someone with a better memory will be along shortly to help out.

Kevin

[ranger1962]

Nice job

[tbx-4]

It is commonly, though inaccurately, referred to as the Model 1858 due to the patent markings on its cylinder, "PATENTED SEPT. 14, 1858/E. REMINGTON & SONS, ILION, NEW YORK, U.S.A./NEW MODEL."; although wide scale production did not start until 1861.

Courtesy Wikipedia

[tbx-4]

So I went through my old powder stash and found an old bottle of Pyrodex... It was marked $10.99 lb. This stuff was before the "P" or "SR" versions of Pyrodex... On the back panel it said load equal volume to FFG.

So I loaded it up light with 20 grains per shot and some home cast round balls a friend had.
This target was shot from 10 yards off hand. I deliberately aimed high the first shot because I read where many 1858s shot low, that's why the one hole is high. After that I just aimed for the bull and shot the remaining 5 rounds. Looks good to me!
http://i.imgur.com/0AOwT8u.jpg

Today I stopped by a LGS and bought a can of FFFG Goex. Loaded up 20 grains per and shot this group at the same distance.
http://i.imgur.com/PTcTFA9.jpg

Not a bad shooter but I've never shot a cap and ball before so I don't now from experience how accurate they can be. I've heard some stories that they can be notoriously inaccurate but that's not what I'm experiencing.

[Omnivore]

Lookin' good there, tbx. My Pietta with factory sights shoots a tad high and to the right. My newer, inox, Target sight (adjustable sights) Pietta shot way high until I ground down the rear sight. If yours is shooting dead on, you done got lucky. The groups look good too. Best hang on to that one.

[tbx-4]

Omnivore,
Thanks.

After finishing then reassembling the gun it's critical to screw on the barrel correctly. Timing the barrel so the sights are aligned thus POA and POI end up the same is the goal. I used my No1 Mk2 eye balls and TLAR with suprising results!

(TLAR = That Looks About Right)

[BlackPowderBen]

That's great shooting!
Btw, how do you take the barrel on and off?

[tbx-4]

Ben,
the barrel is threaded in to the frame. A padded vice to clamp the frame in and a good wrench for the barrel. Tape the area where the wrench makes contact to keep from damaging the barrel. Then give it a good heave-ho!

[BlackPowderBen]

Huh, thats good to know, thanks!

[toot]

thanks for sharing your trials with us. hope this shuts up the naysayers. you did a superb job on the gun, kudos to you.

[AtomHeartMother]

It was called the Remington-Beals back in the day...also known as the new model army. Nice work ! I've got a Howell conversion in mine, loading 45 Colt on the cheap. :-)