Best way to clean nickle revolver

[osteodoc08]

So I go to pick up my Ruger SBH in 480 Ruger at my local fun store when a nickle smith revolver catches my eye. I've never been a huge nickle fan, but for some reason was drawn to it. I ask my favorite pusher to show it to me. It's a smith 15-2. Pinned 4" barrel, K frame with target stocks. I look at the tag and ask him what "my price" would be. He tells me and I figured I couldn't go wrong for a smith revolver for well under 3 bills OTD.

Timing spot on. Forcing cone looks new. No flaking of the nickle but some light pitting on the left side around the latch. Lock up right and LINT. LINT everywhere! All in the barrel and cylinder and even the hammer bushing/pin has lint all in it. The ribbed backstrap has a black linty "goo" in the ribs that I thought was discoloration or rust but wiped out with a fingernail. There is a fine layer or rust at the edge of the rear sight blade and sight. I'm guessing it belonged to someone's relative who tossed it in a sock drawer and forgot about it for 30-40 years. My smith book says the 15-2 would have been made in the 60's.

I guess my question is, what is the best way to clean this and polish the nickel? I can take a brush and some water based cleaner too it. I can take the stocks and side plate off and place in my ultrasonic, but will it affect the nickel? A little bit of flitz? Suggestions appreciated.

Cant wait to get out and shoot this gem.

[William Yanda]

15-2, 16-2 I'm confused.
Sounds like a legitimate use for WD-40.
Bill

[Petrol & Powder]

I think it's a 15-2 and the 16-2 just a typo.

Getting back to nickel, be careful. Electroplated nickel is funny stuff and rust can migrate under the plating.
I would avoid the ultra sonic cleaner and stay away from solvents that contain chlorine or ammonia. Light oil would be my choice. The nickel itself is pretty hard but unlike electroless nickel, once the plating is compromised by a crack or rust, the bond with the underlying steel can be broken.

[DougGuy]

Nickel is VERY EASY to stain and tarnish with chemicals be careful! You can use a harmless cleaner like WD40 or break free on nickel, but nothing that dissolves copper or lead should be allowed to contact the nickel.

I had a Colt SAA from 1927 that lettered nickel and pearl stocks from the factory. OH MY was it a beauty! Somebody had shot it enough to get the cylinder warm, and much of the nickel had flaked off the cylinder so if you shoot it, don't get it warm..

[Petrol & Powder]

I second what DougGuy wrote. Electroplated nickel (which is different from electroless nickel) is easy to permanently damage. Back in the days before stainless steel really caught on, nickel was one of the weather resistant finishes. I've seen some factory nickel plated guns that held up fairly well but I've also seen some that were disasters.

I'm not a big fan of electroplated nickel on a gun but with care it can be OK. I had a nickel model 15 in my hands last year that was as old as the OP's and despite obvious abuse, it had held up well. The plating itself is fairly hard stuff and cleans up easily with an oily rag. However, once the bond between the plating and underlying steel is broken, it's pretty much over.

[osteodoc08]

Yes, it is a 15-2. I corrected it. Sorry for the confusion.

Ive got Hoppes 9, Mil-Pro 7 cleaner, CLP, WD-40 and Rem-Oil at my disposal. Which to clean it with.? I'd clean the barrel and cylinder as usual. I'll use a nylon bristle brush for the crevices. I'll skip the USC dunk. And when done, a light coat of Mil-Pro 7 gun oil.

Ill get some photos up after cleaning. Can't wait to shoot it.

[DougGuy]

Ive got Hoppes 9,
Definitely a NO NO on nickel.


Mil-Pro 7 cleaner
Don't know on this one.


CLP, WD-40 and Rem-Oil at my disposal.
All good.


And when done, a light coat of Mil-Pro 7 gun oil.

Actually nickel needs no oil or other protective coating, it is rust preventative and almost self lubricating by nature of the material. It is best left clean and dry with a tad bit of oil on the moving internal parts.


Can't wait to shoot it.

DON'T get it HOT!

[Outpost75]

Kano Kroil is safe on nickle and works better than WD40 or Rem Oil

[Petrol & Powder]

Yep, keep the Hoppes #9 away

[Petrol & Powder]

Kano Kroil is safe on nickle and works better than WD40 or Rem Oil

Kroil would be my first choice

[Clay M]

I always used Break Free on my nickel plated Gov't model.
I am unsure if Break Free and Rem Oil, have Teflon . I believe Rem oil does.
I have read that Teflon is not good for the accuracy in barrels.

[EMC45]

MPro7 is good. Hoppe's is bad. I would lube the cylinder chambers and bore with CLP and let the protective nickle coating do the rest for the remainder of the gun. I had a Model 10-5 5in. years ago. It was a Detroit Police gun (and said so on the backstrap). When I got it in the gunshop in Biloxi MS (Cook's), it was white due to tarnish. It looked chalky and bad. The girl that worked there let me borrow her tube of Flitz and I got after it (gently). A military brown undershirt and about an hour in front of the tube and it looked great! That gun was an excellent shooter and I never had any type of maintenance issue due to the nickle plating and my cleaning method (MPro7 and CLP)

[osteodoc08]

162543162542

Ended up cleaning with MPro7 which is a water based biodegradable cleaner. I then took a touch of flitz and polished her up. Sorry for the glare and shadows. Best I could do for now. She sure is purty. Never had a nickel plated revolver before. Can't wait to shoot it.

[ironhead7544]

Regular Flitz will be OK to clean it. Then I would use the Flitz Gun Wax. It is straight wax with no abrasive like regular Flitz.

CLP is OK and will not hurt nickle. It was designed by a company that does nickle plating.

WD40 is also OK but dont leave it in the S&W case with the velvet lining. It is known to react with some of them.

Nickle is better than stainless steel for corrosion protection.

[Thin Man]

Clean out the ribs on the backstrap with your choice of liquid to soften it and a nylon bristle toothbrush. These softer bristles will get down to the bottom of the grooves and work without damaging the finish. Please don't use SS, brass, bronze (yup, some people use bore brushes to do this) or any other metal bristle brushes as they may get the finish angry at you.

Thin Man