Ram Checker IV

[Dragonheart]

Thought I would post a video of Ram Checker IV and for those that want to see what a Darnall Freechex IV can do. If you have the need to make a lot of gas checks quickly the Freechex is the way to go.

https://youtu.be/R5sIuzphTEk

Dragonheart

[Pee Wee]

Very cool

[bullet maker 57]

That is a really cool setup.

[MrWolf]

Wow, some setup. Nice job.

[Dragonheart]

Thanks guys.

I have to give the credit to Charlie Darnall as Freechex IV works perfectly. There is no way I will ever wear this thing out or ever be able to use all the checks it can make. Before anyone asks, there is also a Ram Checker III, which uses the Freechex III tool and works equally as well. I just prefer the captured metal design of the IV, since I use the rolls of metal from Coil & Foil anyway. The III might be a better choice if you are using metal from other sources like flashing.

[OS OK]

Vids are cool…we talk back and forth on this forum but you don't really get a feel for another member until you hear his voice or actually see him on a video…I like that.
Wish I still lived in Spring Branch…we could be 'horsetrading' and shooting together!

OS OK

[Dragonheart]

Vids are cool…we talk back and forth on this forum but you don't really get a feel for another member until you hear his voice or actually see him on a video…I like that.
Wish I still lived in Spring Branch…we could be 'horsetrading' and shooting together!

OS OK

One thing for sure you would never need for gas checks.

I wish we had a way to post videos on this site without having to go through a URL, but that may be asking for too much.

[DukeInFlorida]

I have a FreeChex IV punch and die set from Charlie for doing 35 caliber checks. I really like the way the material feeds through the middle of the die. Not really any chance (presuming that you use the proper width material) for a poorly edge cut check.

I have a pneumatic ram machine I created for ironing out rims from 22 LR brass as a step in making .224" bullets for my AR15 consumption. I've been using an old arbor press for Free Chex production. I might get a cylinder, and try making a system like yours.

Could you share what size cylinder that is, and the stroke??

Here's the link to the video for my machine. BTW, yes there is a way to present the video RIGHT IN THIS FORUM:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?299833-Automated-De-Rimming-Machine

[OS OK]

I've seen guys do that in other threads…danged if I can figure that one out…maybe someone can tell us old "Dragons & Dinosaurs' that in this thread?

Gosh…every time I think about you and Katy Tx. the picture that comes to mind is a broken-up old tarred 2 lane highway at the rail crossing and a few old tin covered buildings. A little ways from there you would see wolves hanging from the fence corners every time we were out there.

[Dragonheart]

I have a FreeChex IV punch and die set from Charlie for doing 35 caliber checks. I really like the way the material feeds through the middle of the die. Not really any chance (presuming that you use the proper width material) for a poorly edge cut check.

I have a pneumatic ram machine I created for ironing out rims from 22 LR brass as a step in making .224" bullets for my AR15 consumption. I've been using an old arbor press for Free Chex production. I might get a cylinder, and try making a system like yours.

Could you share what size cylinder that is, and the stroke??

Here's the link to the video for my machine. BTW, yes there is a way to present the video RIGHT IN THIS FORUM:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?299833-Automated-De-Rimming-Machine

Good idea, your swage looks great, I like it!

The press I made from $0.30 a pound scrap steel and it is a little overkill, but heavy steel cutoffs was what the yard had for sale at the time; that changes during the day. Since the steel company is across town I didn't want to come back in hopes of getting lighter material so I took the heavy stuff.

The air connections, hoses & regulator came from harbor Freight. The 5 way momentary switch, muffler/limiters were purchased off Ebay as well as the pneumatic cylinder.

The main item is the pneumatic cylinder. I used an 80 mm cylinder, comparable US dimensions would be 3-1/4 inch bore. The stroke is 12 mm, which works perfectly for the FreeChex IV, but would short stroke the FreeChex III. I know because I initially built a smaller Ram Checker III, using the FreeChex III tool. Ram Checker III sits on a shelf no longer used as I can only use so many gas checks. The III works well, I just prefer the captured metal design of the FreeChex IV since I am using the metal strips anyway

The FreeChex III tool requires a longer stroke, not to cut, but to push the checks out of the tube. The III doesn’t need the power of the 80 mm cylinder as it doesn’t have to overcome the 300 pound spring as on the FreeChex IV tool.

Ram Checker III operates with a small 50 mm cylinder/US 2 inches, and has a 17 mm stroke. It requires about 85 PSI of pressure to operate. A cylinder with a longer stroke could over stroke the FreeChex III tool, possibly damaging the tool. You could use a 63 mm/2-1/2 inch cylinder to drive the IV because my 2 inch cylinder would operate the IV, but only at the maxium my 125 PSI compressor would deliver. I could have increased the pressure on my compressor, but since I already had the 80 mm cylinder I just built another unit, as I like doing this kind of thing.

If you go with a IV tool using an 80 mm cylinder, the larger cylinder not only will give you more power at less pressure, but it also makes it easy to attach the FreeChex because of the larger ram diameter. A threaded collar secured by a set screw on the ram allows the collar to screw upward to install/remove the FreeChex, but will hold the FreeChex in place when screwed down as the tool free floats over the support plate and is held in place by tension only, with that massive spring is won't go anywhere. You may notice, not at my request, Charlie added a custom made aluminum foot to my FreeChex IV at no charge, just in case the tool might need more stability...... What a guy!

If you need more information just ask.

Richard

[DukeInFlorida]

17mm stroke? Wow, not sure I have ever seen a air cylinder with that short a stroke.

I'll have Pee Wee measure the actual stroke on our arbor press, and see what that gives us.

I'll do a 3.5" to 4" bore. Just want to have lots of oooomph without straining the compressor.

[Dragonheart]

There is a tremendous selection when it comes to Pneumatic cylinders as they are built to fit special needs in robotic operations. When you start you search you will find cylinders with much shorter strokes than 17 mm. Since you mentioned the 17 mm I assume you are interested in using the FreeChex III?

My advice is anything over a 63 mm/2-1/2 " double stroke cylinder is overkill and more likely to break the tool. My little 2" cylinder operating at 85 PSI consumes very little air due to the short stroke; even at that I estimate it exerts a force of approximately 250 pounds. A 63 mm cylinder exerting the same 250 pound force would allow you to drop the pressure, but realize as you increase the bore of a cylinder the force that cylinder can generate increases dramatically with psi. For example a 4" cylinder you mentioned at 85 psi would generate a force exceeding 1000 pounds!

The FreeChex III is a brilliantly designed, excellent special purpose tool using harden steel that should last the average user a lifetime. However, it would appear it was intended to be used manually. The open cut design if the III, which allows one to use different width material, is not as strong as the captured design of the FreeChex IV in my video when it comes to the shock force generated by the fast action of a pneumatic cylinder. A small pneumatic cylinder is capable exerting hundreds of pounds of force quickly and if the III is overstroked at some point I predict it will break, because with extremely hard comes brittleness. I do not know if all FreeChex tools are the same, as they are a custom design. The 17 mm stroke that worked for me may not work for you and could damage your tool. I would suggest you start by measuring your tool to determine the exact point it cuts and the minimum travel distance necessary to push the cut check out just enough to properly cycle the tool again. Definitely do not overstroke (Bottom Out) the tool with force.

Of course you could call the tools designer and discuss it with him, but he may be spending more time on the phone than he would like because I think I may have opened Pandora's Box for him with my video.

I don't want to come across as negative and I do wish you success with your project. Maybe I should break out Ram Checker III and do another video, but Charlie may put out a contract on me (lol)?

[DukeInFlorida]

Charlie is a great guy. Sometimes he calls me right out of the blue. Once, it was while he was on the beach, surrounded (he said) by skimpy clad babes in bikinis. He called to talk about material thickness. He lives and breathes gas check tools.

I have Pee Wee checking on the stroke of the arbor press. That will define the stroke we need. I have mostly Free Chex III tools, and one of the IV style. The ones we run the most of are the .22, the .30, the 44 and the 45. I'm hoping that the stroke length on all are about the same.

We swapped out the standard springs some time ago, after seeing the IV type springs, which make much more sense. We have a local metal salvage yard, and we managed to find valve lifter type springs for all the diameters of Free Chex we have. Just not sure about the stroke length for each.

[Dragonheart]

Duke: You need enough force to overcome the spring to complete the cutting action. You just need to be careful so you don't bottom the tool out; if the tool bottoms out the weak point is at the cut out for the metal strip.