glass bedding a rifle stock

[cummins05]

I have watched several videos and read some tutorials. I am wondering id there are any good tips/ tricks? What do you use for the compound personally? I see the devcon comes with pretty high requards and seems like on of the easier and simpler mediums to go with. Thanks in advance.

[mtnman31]

My tip would be to practice on a junker stock for your first try.

Second and most importantly; like a quality paint job, good prep work is paramount to success.

[Mk42gunner]

What he said.

Release agent is your friend.

Acraglas gel.

A little teeny tiny amount of the dye goes a long way.

Tape off any exterior part you don't want epoxy on.

Release agent is your friend, make sure you use enough.

Robert

[country gent]

I perfer Bisonite steel filled bedding material, it is very hard and tough AMU and MMu used it for match garands and M14s where bedding area was limited. I have also used mico bed accra glass gel devcon steel putty and marine tex. The bisonite is harder to mix its a 10-1 ratio of material to hardener but gives a very good working time. Sets up in 24 hours and is a solid durable material. Plan on carbide burrs for removing any excess with this material. It is worth the extra effort of mixing and burrs. Micro bed is a 50-50 mix easy to work with and decent working time, cure time is around 12 hours 24 is better. It is easiy to mix and work with. Accraglass gel is thinner mix (I dont remeber what mix ratio is offhand) it is a clearer material but the kits come with black and brown die. Good working time, cure time of 12-24 hours. Will flow more than the first two. Devcon steel putty is an industrial epoxy for filling and running repairs. It is hard when cured but not brittle. Has a steel filler in it, can be machined drilled and tapped. Is fairly thick when mixed. Marine tex is a epoxy filler intended for boat repairs comes in colors and can be dyed. Easy to mix and use has a fair working time and cure time. It does seem on the brittle side to me. I like to roughen bedding area of the stock with very coarse sand paper by hand. I then with a high speed grinder and 1/8" carbide burr cut chnnels in the stock length wise 2 on each side 1 just below top of stock bedding and one about halfway down on each side. These allow for a thicker layer of bedding to bear on. I also cut .060-.090 from back of recoil lug putting a radioused relief in the corners .060-.090 deep. Again this gives a thicker area of bedding to support the lug. I tape sides and front of lug with 2-3 layers of masking tape to provide clearence here. Coat all metal with 2 coats of release agent and plug any areas that can form a mechanical lock with clay. I mixk epoxy in a vetranary syringe twith the spout opened up. This makes it easy to fill all the grooves and recesses. Its also handy to put an even coat everywhere else. neat and easy. spread surface coat with a popcycle stick and install barreled action into stock clamping firmly but not pushing all the epoxy out. You want to see a bead push out everywhere. Give it an hour or 2 to back fill from the excess and then with a square ended popcycle stick remove excess and wipe clean. there will be areas you cant get to that will need the grinder burr to remove on the inside. Ideally you want 100% contact with now tourque, stress bending or twisting when tightened.

[HangFireW8]

What Mk42Gunner said, plus this:

Avoid epoxy wrapping around or inside of anything, like a concave surface along a receiver rail, a gas vent hole, even machining and proofing marks. Fill such areas with something soft you can pull apart, like modeling clay.

[nicholst55]

Apply release agent and allow to dry. Then, apply it again. If you don't, eventually you WILL glue something together that you did not intend or desire to.

[Frank46]

Another good filler for plugging trigger mortises or spots where you do not want the epoxy to go is candle wax. Clean the area and light a candle dribble the wax so it is proud of the mortise or hole and let cool. Trim with a knife. I've used duct seal that is used for air conditioning uses and it works but sometimes comes off when removing the action from the wood. Use Johnson's paste wax for a release agent at least a couple coats. Good for the trigger guard screws. Frank

[Mk42gunner]

I just remembered this.

A set of stockmakers headless screws help a LOT. You can use some sort of clamp to gently hold everything together when you put the action in the bedding.

The main thing is to have the action sitting level and stress free while the bedding cures.

Robert

[Hannibal]

If this is your first attempt, I recommend you go with AcraGlas Gel and follow the instructions included in the kit. My only other tip would be to use floral clay in lieu of modeling clay, as I have found it stays in place better.

Save the 'exotic' bedding substances for a later time when you already know what to expect.