Clean Sprue Cut?

[TexasAggie06]

One thing that I'm trying to figure out is how to get uniform bases and avoid gouging. I've tried a dozen different things that haven't worked and I've dug through the stickies and couldn't find anything specific, any tips?

[C. Latch]

If you're getting divots in the sprue, let the sprue cool a bit longer before you cut it.

[DLCTEX]

Try cutting the sprue earlier and lube the sprue plate with two cycle oil to prevent smearing. Just a dab with a qtip and wipe almost dry.

[popper]

ECO100 A/C oil (non-leak detecting kind) works better than 2-cycle. Keep the sprue plate up to temp by dipping the lever (if it has one) in the pot. Watch the sprue solidify and cut with gloved hand when you see the last 'color' change and remember the 'feel' of the cut. It should 'pop' - not be hard to cut and definitely NOT easy. Divots in the base will be small if at all. I don't worry about small ones in pistol but don't like them at all for PB rifle. Back row has observable divots, front has none - under a magnifier. Pistol show minor ones but they are (if any) on the boolit centerline so have little balance effect.
161695

This may be done by others previously but I just re-cycled a pot full of old boolits, added a chunk of 'dross' and placed paper towel on top of the pot. Most dross went into the melt. I quit using sawdust as it gets into the pot and clogs the spout. Paper towel just stays on top and evidently creates the O2 barrier that allows our oxides recovery. When cooled, residue just pulls off the top. Candle was doesn't seem to do good & I have no beeswax.
Edit: poured another 20# for the BO this morning, used the paper towel trick which worked great again. Nice shiny surface of the melt after removing a tiny bit of dross. No flame either.
Some folks get pretty particular about how "perfect" things are - I'm pushing these past jacked max fps in BO so they have to be good.

[bedbugbilly]

I agree with Latch . . . let you mold cool a little longer and then cut your spurs plus keep your sprue plate lubed and adjusted so that it is not sloppy. I get the same thing at times and it is usually when I don't let the sprue cool long enough. All depends on the mold I'm using but I sometimes get it on my aluminum blocks and it's because I'm using too rapid a cadence when casting - I use a bottom pour Lyman ladle and a pot. If I get to going too fast with a double cavity . . . I sometimes have to stop and let it cool then go on.

Some folks get pretty particular about how "perfect" things are and if that's their thing, fine. Personally, I'm not that fussy about them as they load and shoot just fine. I have several original Winchester single cavity molds that don't have the best cavities - as a result, the outside of the boolit isn't perfect nor is it necessarly pretty but they shoot fine as well.