cracked M-48 Yugo stock

[hc18flyer]

Sunday I was shooting my M-48, working up some loads with a cast bullet new to me. I was using a 'Lead sled', didn't notice more recoil or noise, but did have one round that was hard to extract the case. When I finished, I noticed a crack in the tang area, going into the butt stock. Today I disassembled the rifle. The crack runs from the rear of the magazine, into the upper wrist or tang area, back about 2 ", the bottom of the wrist looks 'OK'. So the plan is to clean it up with denatured alcohol, spread the crack, and use 30 minute clear 'Devcon' epoxy. Clamp it tightly and let dry thoroughly. After dry, predrill for a couple of brass screws, install them with the heads sticking out, cut the off and carefully file flush. I would appreciate hearing your thoughts. THANKS for your time and expertise!
Flyer

[country gent]

I would use a longer cure epoxy for longer work time. A padded hose clamp works well to pull it together tightly. Once spread and ecopy is worked in ( pack it like a wheel bearing with your finger or utensil. If you have an air compressor with a rubber tiped blow gun use it to push epoxy as far as possible into crack and wood grain this gives a stronger more complete joint. let cure for a short while and clean up as much as possible before it completely sets up. For epoxy accra glass standard. micro bed, JB Weld, or most other bedding agents will make a strong permanant bond. When clamping up clamp tight but not so tight you push all the exoxy out of the joint. The added screws should help add strength but with a good solid joint may not be needed. You could possibly cut off heads and add a screw driver slot before insatlling then instal just under surface and a clear epoxy with close matching sawdust mixed in to make a putty to cover and hide repair. This would also add to helping keep them from backing out at a later date. Clean everything well rough up what you can of the screws. Another simply trick that makes this goe easier is to do a couple trial runs setting everything you need out where its handy and accessable. Set out at least twice as many rags a s you think you will need.

[Frank46]

Don't use the fast setting epoxy as it does not have the strength as the longer ones. The longer it sets and cures the better off you will be. Also check the fit of the recoil lug on the receiver with that of the lug in the stock. From what you have related the fit between the two may indicate the need to glass bed the recoil lug and the front of the receiver. Sounds as though the fit between the two isn't what it should be and the magazine acts like a wedge splitting the stock. Hope this made sense and helps you out. Frank

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Everything Frank said, plus a specific recommend for AccraGlas Gel. Also, instead of screws I'd recommend the threaded stock repair pins specifically made for the purpose available from Brownells. Screws are wedge shaped and can cause their own problems in installation, whereas the pins are the same diameter throughout their length. When you cut them off flush you'll have a smaller spot showing, or to hide if that's your choice. The visible repair never bothered me.
161330The pins come in a kit with the appropriate sized drill bit. Drill the hole and then push some AccraGlas Gel into the hole and coat the pin's threads with AccraGlas. Slowly (low speed) run the pin into the hole to the desired depth or all the way through so the end is sticking out the other side of the stock if that's what you need/desire. Remove any excess from the exterior of the stock before it sets up. It will wipe off (when wet) with some lacquer thinner on a rag. Depending on the type and location of the crack you can sometimes drill a blind hole and only have the end of the pin(s) visible on one side of the stock, which is the case with the stock in this photo. In addition to the work described by Frank, you may want to remove a little wood at the rear of the stock's upper tang beneath the bolt and put some bedding between the point of the tang and the stock.

[lefty o]

for a crack use the acraglass, not the gel. much easier to get it to wick into the cracked area. now for why it happended, the lead sled makes a rifle stock take 100% of the recoil, bad news. lead sleds not only are you not really shooting the gun, but they abuse your gun. a good epoxy repair will be stronger than the original wood, pins arent really needed if done well.

[hc18flyer]

Frank46- You are correct. The recoil lug has worn in and shifted rearward. I will try and bed it back into the correct spot. Lefty o- I hadn't thought about the 'Lead-Sled' creating more stress on the stock, it make sense now. Combining the two issues likely caused the stock to crack.
Thanks, Flyer

[leebuilder]

All good info. It is hard to get the glue to flow deep into the crack, I have used syringes to push and blow the adhesive deeper and used surgical tubing as a clamp. Bungee cord will work in a pinch

Be well

[higgins]

I have read on other forums about stocks cracking in the wrist and tang area when a lead sled is used. I use a 1/2" Past recoil shield, and have also used a floppy sand bag with lots of adjustment in it. I have to stretch the neck more, but it makes shooting the surplus rifles with ball ammo a lot more bearable.

[HangFireW8]

Good advice here.

I've used acetone, a thin runny epoxy (with a touch of wood color) like acraglas, and Brownell's threaded brass repair rod for several repairs. All have held up and been stronger than the original wood.

Properly filed, the brass is just a dot and looks like factory work.

[Frank46]

Check the recoil lug in the stock as well. They can be shifted over time and again cause cracking of the stock. I have one on the husky Swedish made mausers on a commercial FN 98 action and they also made them on the Swedish 96 action. My husky does not have a standard 98 mauser recoil lug in the stock. So if the bedding of the action recoil lug isn't good again you end up with cracks. Mine is a 9.3xx57 so will bed the front receiver ring prior to shooting. Usually the cracks will start on the wrist just around the tang on the action and if not taken care of eventually will get worse. Frank

[hc18flyer]

All glued, screwed, and bedded, curing now. I couldn't find Accu-Glas at a local gun show, so had to 'make due. I used a 30 minute 'DevCon' worked back into the crack by drilling a 1/4" hole into the crack and 'pumping' in the epoxy with a dowel. I decided on using the brass wood screws in from one side, cut off and filed flush. I dremmeled out some wood under and behind the recoil lug. I had some 'West System' epoxy and adhesive filler leftover from a boat repair. Made to a 'peanut butter consistency' and bedded in the recoil lug. It came out fine. It has always intended to be a shooter, and it was good experience for me. From now on I will pay attention to the condition of the recoil lug. Plan to let it sit a week, shot it next weekend. In the future, I will have a package of Accu-Glas on the shelf!(and maybe some repair pins) Later, Flyer

[Frank46]

Sounds like you got her fixed. Cure time is very important so longer is better. Had to repair the transom on my runabout when the clamps punched holes through the glass. Glassed a pressure treated 2x4 up inside the transom where the greatest stress would be from the clamps and then did both the inside of the boat as well as the stern where the motor did some minor damage. Sanded all down then epoxy painted all of the new glass. Guy in the boat yard where I kept it said he couldn't tell the difference where new and old was. Frank