Who uses a Lee Pro 1000 or Loadmaster?

[Outer Rondacker]

I have used RCBS singles Lee singles, turrets, Hornady LNL, Dillon's 650,550,SDB, some old ones I cant even remember. I have never used or even seen a Lee Pro 1000 run. Same goes with the Load Master. So who here uses one or the other. I am looking to get one going. Would you tell a friend to buy one or stay away? If so what would you go for? I am looking to do one thing. Load 45 ACP and leave it set up for this one cal forever. I think the price point is not bad on the Pro 1000 but then again I have never paid much for a press.

[R1200rme]

I use a loadmaster, purchased from Titan reloading. Its run flawlessly for me, loading 9mm and 30-30. No issues that inexperience didnt cause. Titan provided a troubleshooting guide with my press and following their recommendations there have been none of the issues that Ive heard others suffering. I wouldnt hesitate to purchase a loadmaster based on my experiences to date. I can run up to 300 9mm rounds per hour pretty easily.

[Bonz]

I use a Lee Pro 1000 just for prepping brass ( to save wear & tare on my good press )

[Outer Rondacker]

Bonz are you using the press like this because you do not like the way it works or does it not work correctly?

[vaskeet]

I use a loadmaster for 45acp. I don't use the primer system for multiple reasons. I cant seem to get the depth correct (to many high primer) but the main reason I don't prime on the press is because with 45acp you have both lpp and spp cases I can tell you from experence that the loadmaster will make a large primer go bang when you try to put it in a small primer hole (don't know how that piece of brass got in there). with the hand primer I can feel that something is not right

[1bluehorse]

If you don't mind seating and crimping at the same time (three die stations) I'd go for the Pro 1000. I have had a couple of them and I've owned (have two right now) Loadmaster presses. My opinion is that you'll have fewer "possible" issues with the 1000. AND, if there are issues they are easier to rectify also. The two LM's I have right now both work very well but I've also installed some after market parts (priming system) to them and a couple other small tweaks but nothing major at all. Priming is the weak spot for both presses, the indexing and case feed issues SOME have with the LM is generally just improper setup adjustment. Same with the Pro 1000. They both can be made to run, some just need a bit more effort. If you're not willing to spend some time working with either of them then I'd look for something else.

[Outer Rondacker]

Thanks 1bluehorse. I do not mind putting in the time. I currently run a Dillon SDB in 9mm. Two single stage presses for loads of rifle and small runs. Two Hornady LnL with every shell plate they make. I am looking to keep one going on 357 and the other on 44mag. Leaving me with one cal I need to load a decent amount of. 45ACP. The small runs like 22tcm and 10mm I do not mind doing on the singles. No way I am running 45 acp on a single. The LnL's primer set up is just a pain. So I am turning to my fellow reloaders to feel out what I should buy. I really wish I could get a good deal on another SDB in 45 but I have looked and the price is to great. I guess I would not mind doing some on my single if charging was not SO SLOW.


Vaskeet do you add the case in station two with it pre primed? You must deprime in a single run first?

[aspangler]

I have the Pro 1000 set up for 9mm. As long as you don't try to get really fast with it it works just fine. Slow down and get the feel of the press before you try to get a LOT of production. I can do 200-300 per hour when everything (me) is working right. As stated befor, the priming system leave something to be desired but it is workable. If you get one, go to Lee's website and watch the videos on the 1000. I have had mine for about 10,00 rounds and I still learned a few things watching the videos. Have fun.

[vaskeet]

Vaskeet do you add the case in station two with it pre primed? You must deprime in a single run first?

I deprime using the loadmaster with a separate turret with a lee universal decapper installed. Then I hand prime with a auto prime. The 45acp turret is set up with a resizer (with deprimer removed) on station 1 a lee powder through die with a auto drum powder measure on station 2 ( the primer feeder and screw that seats the primer are removed) rcbs lockout die on station 3 seating die done on 4 and LFC die on 5. I load the cases in the case feeder and go to town. I use the loadmaster for all depriming. I do load the 9mm on a LNL progressive

[Lefty Red]

I have a shooting buddy set up with a Lee Pro 1000 in 40 SW. He bought it new, or his new wife did, and we set it up for a two turret system. I don't like to primer on certain progressives if possible.
1) first turret deprimes brass in station one, resize in station two, and flares in station three.
2) second turret has the powder charge on the first station, seats on the second station, and crimps in the third.

You could deprime and resize in step of you desired, and flare with the powder charge. But I find that the more one step operations you do on certain presses the smoother the operation.

Im thinking of setting one up for SP 45ACP brass only just to have it. But getting these old Dillon 450s being thrown at me and I can't pass them up! LOL

The good thing about this two step operation is you can prep brass quicker than hand priming or using a single stage press. You can inspect the brass after the first run. Like Bonz, I'm thinking of getting one setup for brass prep.

[takasaki]

I have and use a pro 1000, it is a good press but has it quirks, for 45acp i use a lee 4 hole turret press and think that is your better option for a newbie to lee presses.

[dikman]

When the Pro 1000 is running as it should it does a great job. The priming stage, however, is where trouble is most likely to occur. The feed area has to be kept scrupulously clean, and it works better if the primer tray is kept fairly full, as the weight of the primers in the tray and slide pushing on the primers helps them feed better. Unfortunately, powder has a tendency to work its way from the powder-dropping area into the priming area and once this happens it starts mis-feeding primers. It then requires stripping and cleaning.

There are many posts about this issue. Lefty mentions one solution - use two turrets to separate the priming and powder-dropping functions, I use a slight variation on that and have two presses (I got both used at good prices), one for de-priming, sizing and priming and the second for powder-dropping/flaring, seating and crimping. By not allowing powder anywhere near the priming function I expect the presses to operate perfectly.

[rbuck351]

I have three of the Pro 1000s and have managed to get all three working very well however as dikman says the powder spitter spitting powder into the primer jammer will bring things to a halt right quickly. There are many posts on fixing these issues. Start with the powder measure and sand the top and bottom of the powder disc you will be using to flatten it and the top of the bottom part of the powder measure that the disc slides on. This slows down the powder leakage a bunch. Any powder that does leak will fall directly into the primer slide and jam it up. Take apart the primer slide and deburr every thing the primer touches on the way to the primer punch and wax with JPW. Make sure the hole the primer punch fits in is CLEAN and that the primer punch drops completely level with or very slightly below the bottom of the primer slide or they can hit the punch and turn up on their side. Cut a piece of plastic milk jug to fit on top of the open slot in the primer slide from as close as you can get it to the empty case up the slide until it locks against the top of the primer slide. The idea here is to prevent ANY powder from getting into the primer slide. Then polish the expander part of the powder through die so it slides out smooth and doesn't shake powder out of the powdered case. And last, keep an air hose regulated to 25/30lbs handy to occasionally blow off any powder that got out of where ever. Also if you do have a jam up (spilled powder) in the primer feed, you can blow all the primers left in the slide back into the primer tray. If you have drilled a paper clip sized hole through the spout of the primer tray a pin can be dropped in to stop the primers from all spilling out as you remove the tray. Then use the air hose to clear any spilled powder and start again. Cycle the press while blowing everything off especially around the primer punch. It saves a bunch of time over disassembling half the press to clean. I got pretty good at this before getting the bugs out of my three. Oh yeah, polish every part that moves and touches another part and wax the ones that shouldn't be oiled. They will produce a lot of ammo in a hurry if properly set up. Using a slow smooth stroke seems to work better than trying to push things too fast. There are different methods of dealing with the issues of the Pro 1000. I would not recommend one of these to anyone not having some tinkering skills and a serious amount of patience. I started out with two used ones that folks had lost patience with and a third Lee reconditioned one just to see what all the fuss was about. There is a reason why some folks hate them but other folks can make them work rather well.

[Outer Rondacker]

Some good info here. If I was going to spend the money to buy two Lee Pro 1000's I would just grab a new Dillon or LnL. I helped a friend get a four hole turret set up by Lee a years ago and after doing so I would never use one as a progressive.

[NC_JEFF]

Both are good presses. Most progressive presses have issues in certain areas, all of which require the operator to keep an eye on to ensure they continue to operate smoothly. They all need adjustments eventually. I've loaded with a Loadmaster for 25 years and I will use it for all my handgun reloads. I do however hand prime because I've never purchased the upgrades for the priming system, and the priming system on mine sucks. For the money, I don't think there are any progressives better than the LM.

[jmorris]

I was given a basket case loadmaster, was able to get it to work after a few hours.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9pjmuHAkBU

I don't tell friends to buy one though, all of the other presses you mentioned in the OP would be more reliable.

[Bonz]

Bonz are you using the press like this because you do not like the way it works or does it not work correctly?

Just like my father always told me, "you get what you pay for". I bought it specifically for prepping brass and nothing more. It only has 3 stations so I would never use it to reload ammo on. The brass feed system does not work very well. It was difficult to mount a brass feeder on but I finally got one working. The method of collecting de-capped primers it terrible. I'm sure that there are ways to improve this press but thats not going to be me. I use a Hornady LNL for all my reloading and it works perfectly. I'm sure that all or most progressive presses have their quirks but once you understand them, its easy to figure out how to compensate and get them to make ammo.

[Outer Rondacker]

I came across this video a few days back. At the time I said man the press runs smooth. Good job. I am ok with 200 rounds an hour more would just be a plus. Looks like size in slot 1 with ? in 2 flare powder drop 3 rcbs bullet feeder in 4 and five is a seat crimp. Am I correct? Still not sure what is in two or why you didnt move them all back one and do a FC in the last hole. But hey it runs like a top dont mess with it.

[longshot1154]

I've reloaded with a loadmaster for 20 plus years, handgun only. I have it set up with the case feeder and 1st station is size/deprime, 2nd is priming, 3rd is powder, 4th is bullet seating and 5th station is factory crimp die. The 5th station being factory crimp is something I just started doing as I only did this on rifle in the past on my single stage Lee. Been running it like this since the day I got it and never felt the need to do any portion off press. I did update to the new primer systems when they came out and I just installed a new Lee auto drum powder measure that I haven't used yet. The only issue I have run into lately was when I set the press up to reload 44 mag. The shell plate had a burr so one shell would not go completely into the shell plate causing it to hit the edge of the sizing die. A few seconds with a small file and I was able to run nonstop.

[Outer Rondacker]

Thank you longshot1154. I am thinking more on the LM.

[jmorris]

Looks like size in slot 1 with ? in 2 flare powder drop 3 rcbs bullet feeder in 4 and five is a seat crimp. Am I correct? Still not sure what is in two or why you didnt move them all back one and do a FC in the last hole.

Yep size/deprime in 1.

#2 is where priming takes place and it happens on the up stroke so if you moved the measure back one you would be dumping powder before the primer was fully seated. The die in #2 is just an extra powder/expander die that does nothing except center he case, Lee for whatever reason uses the same shell plate for 9mm as it does for 40 so it has room to move around and cause problems priming if you don't locate it somehow. Priming is likely the #1 issue with the LM.

The feed die is a Hornady but the rest is correct.

[Outer Rondacker]

OK school me on this one. On all presses I have ever run the priming action happens when the press handle is pushed forward. Are you telling me on the LM it happens while the handle is being pulled back and the ram is going upward? If so I did not know this.

[vaskeet]

OK school me on this one. On all presses I have ever run the priming action happens when the press handle is pushed forward. Are you telling me on the LM it happens while the handle is being pulled back and the ram is going upward? If so I did not know this.
Yes it primes when the handle is pulled down at the same time that you are depriming sizing seating and crimping so there is no feel to the priming and that is why I hand prime and have the primer feed removed and the primer seating setup disabled on mine

[jmorris]

OK school me on this one. On all presses I have ever run the priming action happens when the press handle is pushed forward. Are you telling me on the LM it happens while the handle is being pulled back and the ram is going upward? If so I did not know this.


Yes, the Loadmaster and Dillon 1050 are the only two presses that I know of that do this.

You don't need "feel" as the primer is seated to an exact depth. Just turns out to be a better idea if you have a swage station before priming, like the 1050.

Look at the area where the excess chain for the powder measure reset is hanging in the photo below.

The upside down bolt screwed into the top of the press contacts the rocker arm below mounted to the ram. When the two make contact the rocker pushes an anvil up seating a primer in the case. If you want them deeper you thread the bolt lower.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/LM/IMG_20151218_164733_466_zps4huhj5rb.jpg

[rbuck351]

Rondacker
I didn't buy any of the three new. I have about $100 each in them average and I already have a Dillon 550b and a Star universal. The reason I got the Lee Pro 1000s was just to see how bad they really are and if they can be made to work properly. Now that they are working right I have one set up for 9mm one for 32S&W long and one for 7.62x25 and they won't be changed. makes changing calibers really fast. Just step sideways and grab the handle of a different press. That's faster than changing dies on a lock and load.
The Star also seats a primer on the down stroke along with all the other steps. the Star doesn't have a ram as such. The whole die plate with all the dies comes down to the shell plate.

[flyingmonkey35]

I own two Lee load masters and have given up priming on. Them.

Flipped primers. Depth. And kaboooms.

So I will run full bore and derpime / resize separately.

Then prime one a being priming system. 1000 at a time.

Now I'm all set for reloading with prepped brass.

If you can get it you get a powder checking die and say good bye to squibs.

[Outer Rondacker]

I own two Lee load masters and have given up priming on. Them.

Flipped primers. Depth. And kaboooms.

So I will run full bore and derpime / resize separately.

Then prime one a being priming system. 1000 at a time.

Now I'm all set for reloading with prepped brass.

If you can get it you get a powder checking die and say good bye to squibs. Kinda defeats the purpose of a progressive if you have to do everything single stage like that. I have done thousands this way in the past just was thinking of trying something new. I do have a powder check die. I have always picked it up a head of time with my eye before it got to the die. But just in case i use one when I can.

[Outer Rondacker]

Yes, the Loadmaster and Dillon 1050 are the only two presses that I know of that do this.

You don't need "feel" as the primer is seated to an exact depth. Just turns out to be a better idea if you have a swage station before priming, like the 1050.

Look at the area where the excess chain for the powder measure reset is hanging in the photo below.

The upside down bolt screwed into the top of the press contacts the rocker arm below mounted to the ram. When the two make contact the rocker pushes an anvil up seating a primer in the case. If you want them deeper you thread the bolt lower.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/LM/IMG_20151218_164733_466_zps4huhj5rb.jpg It bothers me that for some reason I think I like this method. Do the new LM come with the upgraded primer system everyone is talking about?

[vaskeet]

I own two Lee load masters and have given up priming on. Them.

Flipped primers. Depth. And kaboooms.

So I will run full bore and derpime / resize separately.

Then prime one a being priming system. 1000 at a time.

Now I'm all set for reloading with prepped brass.

If you can get it you get a powder checking die and say good bye to squibs.


You forgot lost primers put 100 primers in the feed get 96 out in cases the other 4 gone into the ram

[longshot1154]

I would imagine they come with the new priming system as they no longer sell parts for the old units.

[flyingmonkey35]

Kinda defeats the purpose of a progressive if you have to do everything single stage like that. I have done thousands this way in the past just was thinking of trying something new. I do have a powder check die. I have always picked it up a head of time with my eye before it got to the die. But just in case i use one when I can.
That's not really single stage the way I see it. But lots of us deprime / and clean anyway.

In this case I use the case feeder system to make short work of it.


Yes the priming system sucks an is inconsistent on the LM. However lots and lots of people have 0 issues with it.

Bit I've destroyed two feed ramps with a misaligned primer on the thing.

So to each his own.

So I chose to prime off the press and have zero priming issues.

Wish it wasn't the case

[Gillie Dog]

But lots of us deprime / and clean anyway. In this case I use the case feeder system to make short work of it. I agree and do the same.

Yes the priming system sucks an is inconsistent on the LM. However lots and lots of people have 0 issues with it. I agree and have 0 problems because I run the aftermarket priming system.

So to each his own. I whole heartily agree.

So I chose to prime off the press and have zero priming issues.

Wish it wasn't the case

In my case I prime 45ACP large primer, 9MM and 40 S&W on the Loadmasters after decapping before hand through a Loadmaster and cleaning . Been using the new Auto Drum powder measure and it has made life much easier and more trouble free.

Just me and like he says, to each his own, that is part of what makes this hobby interesting and enjoyable.

GD

[Outer Rondacker]

You forgot lost primers put 100 primers in the feed get 96 out in cases the other 4 gone into the ram
You must feed the beast.

Guys I am taking in what everyone is saying. I am happy for everyone who does this hobby and more so with those who share it with others. I have a weird way of looking at things and do not have the softest of ways in which I express myself.

[flyingmonkey35]

In my case I prime 45ACP large primer, 9MM and 40 S&W on the Loadmasters after decapping before hand through a Loadmaster and cleaning . Been using the new Auto Drum powder measure and it has made life much easier and more trouble free.

Just me and like he says, to each his own, that is part of what makes this hobby interesting and enjoyable.

GD
Aftermarket priming system??? Which one there is one etc..

Or the modifed one from Doug's reloading bench

[jmorris]

It bothers me that for some reason I think I like this method. Do the new LM come with the upgraded primer system everyone is talking about?

I really like it on my 1050's and actually didn't have any problems with the method of seating on my LM, the weakness would be getting brass that is crimped or otherwise won't accept a primer and it gets mangled but you can't feel it and bad things happen.

The problems I had were getting the primers to the anvil to be seated 100% and the new system is a big help. As long as you don't buy an "old stock" press you should get the new system.

If you really want one of these things you need to start sending PM's to folks that say they have one collecting dust because it took too much energy to throw it in the trash. That's how I got mine for free (sent the fellow some brass for his trouble and covered shipping) then just buy the new parts from Titan. There are enough haters out there you should be able to find one cheap.

Dont worry about it being a basket case, they will all get to that point if you don't learn how they work, might as well figure it out at the beginning.

[Outer Rondacker]

I really like it on my 1050's and actually didn't have any problems with the method of seating on my LM, the weakness would be getting brass that is crimped or otherwise won't accept a primer and it gets mangled but you can't feel it and bad things happen.

The problems I had were getting the primers to the anvil to be seated 100% and the new system is a big help. As long as you don't buy an "old stock" press you should get the new system.

If you really want one of these things you need to start sending PM's to folks that say they have one collecting dust because it took too much energy to throw it in the trash. That's how I got mine for free (sent the fellow some brass for his trouble and covered shipping) then just buy the new parts from Titan. There are enough haters out there you should be able to find one cheap.

Dont worry about it being a basket case, they will all get to that point if you don't learn how they work, might as well figure it out at the beginning.
Very well said and could not be any more up my alley if I had said it myself. Thank you sir for the good idea. With that said.....

Anyone have a Lee Load Master or Pro 1000 they hate or want to part with for cheap?

[dave33]

A lee pro 1000 was my first press I learned to reload on. It is a little quirky but can load good ammo pretty quickly if you are a little patient. There are some good resources online that can give you lots of tweeks to make it run better. Best I ever got was 500 rounds in 1hr 8mins. Thats replinishing brass, primers, etc, but 400/hr is more realistic. My pro 1000 primes perfectly.

That said, I bought a used Loadmaster from a guy in my gun club that had used it to load 1000 rounds of 9mm about 7 yrs ago and left it in his storage shed ever since. Had to do a little refurbishment to it and replace a few parts but it runs great now. The priming system is about my favorite part. Priming on the downstroke is great and having the ability to adjust primer depth is even better as I shoot a lot of lightly sprung guns and giving the primers a little precrush keeps everything reliable. Folks having problems with the priming system are most likely running the handle too fast. The Loadmaster priming system works by having a wedge bar push the primer into a cup on the way to the top of the toolhead, and if you run the handle too fast you can sling the primer out or flip it in sideways and get it crushed in sideways. I ran into this early in my loadmaster experience and almost gave up on the primer system until I took time to understand what its doing, now priming about the best part. Slow and steady is the key to the loadmaster.

After using both I much prefer the Loadmaster. Loading cast boolits (you are loading cast boolits arent you) really needs separate seating and crimping and you just cant do it on the Pro 1000. The nice thing about Lee progressives is just how simply they are designed. If you take the time to understand how everything is suppose to be working together its pretty easy to diagnose and fix the problems you run into. Heck, you can even totally disassemble and reassemble either press in just a few minutes. Definitely cant beat the price. Im going to jump on the next used loadmaster I find no matter what the condition as long as the price is right and keep one set up for large primer and one for small primer.

A couple good resources for lee press help and tips are loadmastervideos.com and mikesreloadingbench.com. Good luck if you give one a try.

[Outer Rondacker]

Dave33 thank you for your post. Good info and good idea on the one for small and one for large primers. I am at the stage of one press per cal. Set it and forget it as they say. Yes I load lead for 45's. I do have a little over 10k jacketed 230 to burn up some day. It was one of them deals you kinda could not pass up. I got them cheaper then I can buy the lead to cast them up.

[Gillie Dog]

Aftermarket priming system??? Which one there is one etc..

Or the modifed one from Doug's reloading bench


MikesReloadingBench.com

It is a modified trough, slider and carrier. I did 2,000 45ACP with out a fail to prime properly a while back. I did learn to keep the trough full with primers and add a new filled tray as soon as the last primer leaves the tray or I would miss primers when there was not enough weight in the trough to push them down. Seems more important with small primers than large. But I also have a ROCK SOLID bench and there is no wiggle, shake or press movement at all as it is cycled, this is almost as important as the aftermarket priming system.

GD

[tunnug]

I also have two Pro1000's, small and large primer, the first one I ordered new for about $120 with a set of dies (a long time ago), the second one I found at a local swap meet (flea market), the husband had gone to get a beer when I found it all in pieces in a box, the wife said give me $20 and get out a here before my husband gets back, he's thinking of not selling it and I want it gone, he's had it for a few years and not done anything with it.
Got it home and had it put together in no time, the trick to them once you get them adjusted right is to go the full stroke each time you pull the handle, don't stop between pulls and don't change your tempo, they have worked just fine for me on handgun cartridges, I do rifle on a single stage.

Forgot to mention that for the priming system I have a small right angle handled pick that I use to make sure the primers move along on the feed troth (sp), when they hang up is when you start having problems, I also changed the powder disc to a micro-adjustable replacement they sell on Midway, makes getting the proper charge easier.

[rtracy2001]

I had a Pro-1000 several years ago, but it just didn't like feeding 40 S&W and I didn't like seating and crimping in one step for an autoloader. For 38/357, or any revolver round using a roll crimp, I wouldn't hesitate to get another Pro-1000. The stroke is too short for most rifle rounds, and I don't like seating and crimping in one step for those either. Changing shell plates is a total pain IMO. I didn't have too much trouble with the priming system. Keep it clean. If it happens to leak powder, take steps to rectify that problem right away.

The wife bought me a Loadmaster for Christmas 2014. It came set up for 223, but I have purchased turrets and shell plates for 40 S&W, and 30 carbine and load those on the same press. So far, I am really impressed. The new Lee priming system works well, but can have issues if not properly adjusted and kept clean. An improperly prepped crimped primer pocket can ruin your session (Of course the first reloading of military brass requires of-press prep). As stated a smooth, steady pace is better than rushing. The case feeder works well for pistol rounds and the 30 carbine. Getting it to work with rifle length cases is possible, but a bit difficult.

For a single caliber, either press will work fine, but for an autoloader, I would recommend the Loadmaster. $.02

[Bruntson]

I have a Lee Pro 1000. It can be made to work with lots of fiddling and keeping a close eye of the primer feed tray. For all the frustration and labor I have in keeping it running smoothly, I would suggest you buy something else. I love reloading, except when I use the Lee Pro 1000. Thankfully I have a single stage and turret press to use.

[shoot-n-lead]

I HAD them...were not worth the effort to keep them running.

GO BLUE!

[jmorris]

I did 2,000 45ACP with out a fail to prime properly...

Worth reading again, never read that before talking about a Lee progressive and not very likely to in the future.

[ljnowell]

I've been using a pro1000 for awhile now with great success. I just recently picked up a used loadmaster. I should have it mounted up in the next couple weeks.

[1bluehorse]

Worth reading again, never read that before talking about a Lee progressive and not very likely to in the future.


Oh, I don't know. I've probably done that many 9mm on one of mine with out any priming problems, and a couple hundred 44's and 45 colts on the other, BUT, I also have Magic Mikes (Mike's Reloading Bench) priming system with the adjusting screw in the shell plate carrier...... Back to the original question from Outer Rondacker. You already have a Dillon SDB that you seem to like very well so why not just buy another one for the 45ACP? By the time you purchase a new LM and add the aftermarket parts from MRB you're in that cost area anyway. The only advantage (if there is one) with the LM is you get a pretty good casefeeder, and caliber conversions are much cheaper than the SDB but that's not an issue for you as you only want to do one caliber. IF, you just want to try a Loadmaster for S's and giggles, then sure, go ahead, they can be made to run well. But like I mentioned before, you should be prepared to spend some time, effort, and maybe a bit of money on aftermarket "upgrades" for better consistency.

[Outer Rondacker]

hehe; "IF, you just want to try a Loadmaster for S's and giggles, then sure, go ahead, they can be made to run well." This thread is making me want to just do that. I have to keep reminding myself my budget is limited for the next two years.

As for the SDB I own well I got it brand new in the box all set up for $25 dollars. Never had powder or primer in it. If I could find a good deal on a SDB in 45 I would buy it. I hate case feeding on one side and bullet feeding on the other. I guess I just dont like taking my hand off the press handle. This thread is helping me decide and I am thankful for all the posts.

[1bluehorse]

The ergonomics of the Dillon presses is the reason I prefer others as well. I do however, have an "older", manual everything, 450 that I DO enjoy using for certain rifle calibers as I'm in no hurry with them and it affords me a LOT of versatility. But for an auto index press I (personally) look elsewhere. As for right now the Lee Loadmasters that I have satisfy that "itch". When I decide to move on (and I will) it's probably going to be back to RCBS....but that's just my preferences. I've looked at and cycled a display model Hornady LNL and it sure seems to be a really nice unit and priced very well (under 400 bucks if you look about a bit) but me and Hornady have some bad history (with another press with a "lifetime guarantee" that is no longer supported by them) so they're not even in the equation for me. IF, you decide on a LM there is a lot of help available IF you have any problems....

[Idz]

One advantage I've found with the pro-1000 is the people who happily use them are often very mechanically inclined. As a result you can find lots of information on fixes and modifications for this press.

[Outer Rondacker]

Thank you 1bluehorese. I have one of those LIFETIME presses from hornady. I do not talk about it much. If we are on the same page its a Hornady Pro-jector. I just got off the phone from hornady looking for a few simple parts and they offered to take it on trade in on a new LnL. I send them 200 bucks with a complete working press or 250 with not powder measure and they will send me a new press. Um ok but I just want parts so my press is not working. I was told to call back Monday and they could tell me how much more it would be for a trade in. I stated again I am looking for primer parts I do not want to spend another 250+ 10 per 6 shell plates I have. If I was going to do that I would just order a new one for 389.96. She told me sir our press sells for over 500 dollars before we add in the case activated powder drop. That goes for another what ever she said. I could not get it into her head I wanted to fix the one I had.I will be calling back Monday. Dont get me wrong I was interested in the trade in but got to thinking if it was worth it. This press runs I just cant run large primers. What do you guys think lol I am all over the place here. I am still thinking lee for my 45s.

[dave33]

What do you guys think lol I am all over the place here. I am still thinking lee for my 45s.

I think the $250 upgrade price is about what a Loadmaster ready to load one caliber with a case feeder will cost you. Keep the Pro-jector for small primer stuff, get the Loadmaster set up for .45. You can always trade the Pro-jector later if you want.

[Outer Rondacker]

That is what I was thinking. To be honest I have two Pro-jectors. I have just always called them LnL's. I have two small primer pockets and one large. The one large is set up for 44mag and yes I shoot enough to keep a progressive set up for it. The small is set up for 357. They both work great in my mind. So I should keep them going and keep on track of Lee for 45s.

[Outer Rondacker]

My piggy bank can not swing the price of a new Hornady or Dillon. Thus brings me to the lee.

[shaner]

I've used 1000's for years with 9mm,38spl. 45acp 45lc all work fine

[wawoodwa]

I use a Lee Load Master for 9mm and I do everything on it except tumble the brass. Setup is key, and I believe the correct die selection is key as well.

In position 1, I use the Lee universal decapper die. You could also use a sizing die that is larger than the case, but I like the universal die.

Position 2 is where I size and prime. I use a Lee carbide die with the decapper removed. By sizing in position 2, it centers the case perfectly for the primer to go in. You will need to adjust primer depth, but once done, it is set for good. Of course, I don't have to deal with different primer sizes that 45 ACP can have.

Position 3 is for flare and powder. Lee powder-through die with autodisk.

Position 4 is where I seat the bullet. I also use a magnetic bore light that I place on the primer shield. I snake the light to pinspot the case so I can see the powder in the case before I place the bullet. I use the Lee bullet seat die.

Position 5 is for the Lee factory crimp and post sizing.

For the money I paid for the Lee, I am very happy. And I like his reloading book too (fun stories as to decisions in manufacturing and how he shot the windshield of his car). I've run thousands of cartridges through this press.

Good luck!

[Outer Rondacker]

Welcome to the forum wawoodwa. I am honored you posted your first post in my thread. Thank you for sharing with us.

On the note of Lee CS. Well I had to deal with them twice and let me tell you. I was not happy at all. The guy called basically called me a LIAR in not so many words. It was kinda the same issue both times. Fast story. I had bought brand new sealed 4 die set of dies. I opened it to find three and called them up. They gave me a bunch of bull and did nothing for me. I had to buy the missing die.

[toallmy]

I have broken a few lee parts and they always replaced them .

[toallmy]

You should ask to speak to their supervisor, that is unacceptable service .

[Outer Rondacker]

I chalked it up to its a tuff one to prove and from their point of view people are always looking to get something for nothing. It still bothers me but I am over it for the most part. I do own 16 sets of their dies. Hand primers, powder hoppers, scoops and more. I seem to be happy with all of it.

I guess the guy I talked to was the head cheese. He was kinda a prick now that I think back. Oh well it was a few years ago.

[wawoodwa]

Thanks Outer, glad to share. I've been reading the forums for a long time, but only felt I finally had experience to share on this topic. Glad to be here. Have a great day!

[toallmy]

I have been paying attention to the post about progressive reloading while I have been loading a lot more since I began casting . I have always loaded in batches because I loaded my rifle ammo for specific guns . But I must ramp up production to feed the handguns , I have recently worked out my distaste for progressive loading as the first progressive loader I tried was a lee load fast shotgun shell loader and it was a ( horrible adventure ) for years . A few years ago I tried the 9000s and my God that is how it is supposed to work . Now I am considering hand gun progressive loading , I thought I had to buy a Dillon to make good ammo , just watching and thinking could a loadmaster really work like the video . I still remember the load fast.

[Outer Rondacker]

Toallmy I guess the answer to your question is yes if tuned correctly. That is what I am getting from this thread anyway and I think it is very true. I would however say if the price of the dillon is close to the price of a new LM then by all means dillon it is. Just my 2 cents. Keep watching as once I have picked up a press I will be posting my results to finish this thread. Might be a few weeks but never the less I will. I hope we keep the chat going in the mean time.

[1bluehorse]

Using Magic Mikes priming "upgrades" I use nothing in station two on either of my LM's. 9MM has been the most difficult case for me to reload and I think that's mostly due to the shell plate. It fits both 9mm and 40s&w so the fit is a bit "off" for the 9. Stating that, I'm still not having any priming problems doing them. I DO lube all cases that I run through the presses though with a bit of spray lube. Makes the press run "smoother", with less effort.

[toallmy]

:popcorn:I have a lot more research to do before I go progressive .I am paying attention.

[Gillie Dog]

Using Magic Mikes priming "upgrades" I use nothing in station two on either of my LM's. 9MM has been the most difficult case for me to reload and I think that's mostly due to the shell plate. It fits both 9mm and 40s&w so the fit is a bit "off" for the 9. Stating that, I'm still not having any priming problems doing them. I DO lube all cases that I run through the presses though with a bit of spray lube. Makes the press run "smoother", with less effort.

I run that way also but for 9mm I have a separate shell plate with the wire modification to guarantee centering on the primer punch. I do have to have two 19s shell plates, one for 9mm and another for 40 S&W. Some just set the case retainer out a little and this allows the case to move out to the proper location as it is indexed into station 2 but I like the mechanical advantage method.

For every bad/broken part, die or factory defect Lee has sent me new ones at no charge and only once did I have to send the bad one back, a 22/250 die which was rough on the shoulder area and was polished I assume before returning. Granted it has only happened a few times but they did respond properly.

GD

[flysubcompact]

This does seem very strange for a couple of reasons:

1. The few times I have contacted Lee they have been very professional and eager to help.

When I found that my LM shell plate didn't like FC or military brass (worked fine with Rem and Win), Lee said "send us the plate and a couple pieces of brass and we will make it right." I had a brand new shell plate that works on all my brass inside a week at no charge. Now, Lee doesn't have the same warranty as RCBS, but one doesn't pay RCBS prices for Lee equipment either.

2. The Loadmaster is cast aluminum and I have never heard of any kind of heat treatment being used on it.

That would my same experience with dealing with Lee CS. Polite, professional and quick to make something right. I had warped shell plate. A new one was in my mail box in less than a week after I called them.

[flysubcompact]

My LLM came with 9mm dies as kit. The only real problem (other than me being a total noob at reloading) was a warped shell plate. Lee remedied that quickly.

I reprime off the press. Not because the stock LLM won't work, but because I don't like dirty primer pockets and I like to inspect every case I load, thoroughly. Slower than just running the intended configuration, but I'm persnickety with ammo I hand to loved ones.

My set up...initial tumble to get dirt out. LLM gets a factory deprime/sizer on station 1. Station 2 has a case mouth spreader die I made to insure a .357" mouth for the first .200" of depth....deprimed brass goes in for a final tumble...brass is then hand primed/final inspection....change die head on press....this second die holder has nothing at station 1, powder drop at station 2, powder cop at 3, bullet seat at 4 and factory crimp at 5.

This LLM is the press is what I used to start reloading. I like it. Especially the price.

(edit) The only real modifications I've done...moved powder drop from 3 to 2 and had a little trouble at first with tension setting on case feed. Fixed that with just sticking a rare earth magnet on the shuttle. The magnetic grip gives perfect tension.

[DxieLandMan]

I use a Pro 1000 for all my pistol calibers. The shell plate thingy was a real PITA for me so instead of getting ticked every time I wanted to change calibers, I just bought another press set up for that (I got a good deal so I have 3). I hand prime all my cases though. Pro 1000 works for me and I am very well pleased with it

[flyingmonkey35]

Never had a issues with lees warranty. Even when I blew up my press with a primer they had no issues replacing the tray.

Broke a single stage at the base with a stuck case. Sent me out a new one no questions asked.


But yes I have real bad luck with other company's.

If you still have that press. Feel free to send this post to Lee warranty service. And see what happens.

[sghart3578]

To the OP:

First you should understand that I am a big Lee fan. I have a Classic Turret press that has put out thousands and thousands of rounds in several calibers.

I also have a Lee Classic Cast that gets a lot of working sizing/depriming, etc.

What I am going to say is not Lee bashing, I love Lee stuff.

I tried a Loadmaster once. It was in great shape when I got it. I had a lot of trouble with the priming system. I had, over time, developed work arounds and fixes but was never really happy with it.

When I loaded 223 on it it worked great but on those I sized and reprimed off press. It worked very well in that situation.
I finally sold it when I was offered a good deal on an RCBS Turret Press.

Based on my experience I would not recommend a Loadmaster. I am going to try a Pro 1000 for the first time as I am expecting one in the mail that I purchased on Gunbroker.

I have never owned a Dillon but as luck would have it I found one on my local Craigslist yesterday and made an offer. I pick it up tomorrow.


Best of luck.

[Outer Rondacker]

Thanks for sharing sghart. Let us know what you think of the pro 1000 and congrats on the dillon. My local craigslist gets everything flagged to do with reloading guns ammo heck even war stuff. Post a bb gun its off in a min. I did snag my dillon from CL for a good buy. Please fill in your profile as I always like to look where people are from I am typing to. Thanks again.

[rbuck351]

sghart
You're going to really like the Dillon if you're getting the 550b. It is so simple to work with. You can slide a case in and back out at any station. Put a case in the powder station pull the handle, remove case to check charge, adj powder charge and put case back in. Same with adjusting bell on mouth or bullet seating or crimp. The pro 1000 is a pita to make the initial adjustments. Once you put a case in the front it has to go all around as you can't remove it except at the end. Don't even think of short stroking the thing to try to leave the brass at one station as it will jam up. I have three of the Pro 1000s and they all work good, but only after hours of set up and fixing the brand new powder measure and the brand new primer tray and slide. The pro 1000 can best be described as a semi finished reloading kit that the factory assembled to make sure all the parts were there. Once you have one finished they will load a lot of quality in a hurry but you better be a serious tinker kind of guy or really lucky. I would not recommend one of these to anyone not mechanically inclined and patient lot's of patience. I got mine used cheap from folks that were ready to throw them in a pond and mostly to see for myself where the problem is and I found the problem. Actually I found lot's of them. All fixable but they do exist. My next step is the Load Master. Anyone got one of these cheap that you are considering making a boat anchor out of. Please, no good ones. I want the press from Hades, the one that just can't be made to work correctly. It's a genetic defect I have, fixing junk.

[oldfart1956]

Can't help you on the Loadmaster Rondacker but might have some insight on the Pro-1000. I've been using one for a good while now for 9mm. and decided to get another just for .45acp. Like many I had to fiddle a bit with both presses to smooth out the primer issues but that seems to be a common problem with all the progressives not just Lee. Anyways, for $158 from Titan you get the press, dies and powder measure. Heckuva deal. Get the primer chute attachment and drill a hole thru the bench and primers drop just like the Classic Turret. I only load small primer .45acp so got the small primer kit as well. ($11?) Spend a bit of time fine tuning the dies and you can do all the work on the press. I seat&crimp both 9mm. and .45acp as the presses were designed to do without ANY issues. With cast boolits in both calibers. No shaving lead, no downsized boolits...just fill the case collater up with brass and pull the lever. I did modify the expanders in both calibers due to oversize cast boolits. Remember we're not actually crimping just ironing out the flare from the expanders. Proper neck tension is the key. The supplied powder measure is working excellent! Keep it at least half full and don't bypass the chain set up. It's there for a reason. Audie...the Oldfart.

[Gillie Dog]

My next step is the Load Master. Anyone got one of these cheap that you are considering making a boat anchor out of. Please, no good ones. I want the press from Hades, the one that just can't be made to work correctly. It's a genetic defect I have, fixing junk.

I hope you do better than I did. Almost two years trying to find used Loadmasters in any shape or form on the "cheap" was not possible. Everybody hangs on to them or sells them on EBAY for more than retail. I would contact haters with requests for what they will part with them for and if I received a reply it was at retail or more. Ended up buying new ones when I could get them $180 shipped for the kits and sell off the extra dies and such I already had, but the last one was $200 shipped when I got it last year. Oh well, I do not need any more any longer...............

Good luck.

GD

[sghart3578]

To rbuck31,


The Dillon I am buying is a 450. It is complete and set up for .223.

Here is what happened. I was looking for a new project for my reloading room. I love to tinker. I found a Lee Pro 1000 on Gunbroker for $100, complete with two carriers, 4 shellplates, 2 three hole turrets and some other parts. I was thinking that since I do a lot of 5.56/.223 I would get a dedicated press for it. I do all of my brass processing on my single stage and I hand prime so I would be completing the 223 rounds on the Pro 1000. Charging, seating and maybe crimping if I wanted.

I mailed the payment for the Pro 1000 and 2 days later on my local Craigslist there was a Dillon 450, complete with powder measure and dies for .223 and .308. All for $200. So I bought that also. Goodbye tax refund.

Now I have to find a way to squeeze them in between my Lee Classic Turret, RCBS Turret, Lee Classic Cast and Lee Load-All.


Best of luck to you all,


Steve in N CA

[dikman]

All I can say is that based on my experience with Lee so-called "Customer Service" when I buy Lee stuff I assume I'll be on my own if something goes wrong. Fortunately, other than molds I've been able to fix any issues myself.

[Lefty Red]

To rbuck31,


The Dillon I am buying is a 450. It is complete and set up for .223.

Here is what happened. I was looking for a new project for my reloading room. I love to tinker. I found a Lee Pro 1000 on Gunbroker for $100, complete with two carriers, 4 shellplates, 2 three hole turrets and some other parts. I was thinking that since I do a lot of 5.56/.223 I would get a dedicated press for it. I do all of my brass processing on my single stage and I hand prime so I would be completing the 223 rounds on the Pro 1000. Charging, seating and maybe crimping if I wanted.

I mailed the payment for the Pro 1000 and 2 days later on my local Craigslist there was a Dillon 450, complete with powder measure and dies for .223 and .308. All for $200. So I bought that also. Goodbye tax refund.

Now I have to find a way to squeeze them in between my Lee Classic Turret, RCBS Turret, Lee Classic Cast and Lee Load-All.


Best of luck to you all,


Steve in N CA

You are going to love the 450! I like it better than my 550. The 550 has a little play in the removable tool head, just a tad I would say. Still no where near the play in the Lee CTP.

[rbuck351]

So why would a bit of play in the 550 tool head be a problem. I'm thinking all the play is gone before the 4 cases have made it to the top of their stroke. I just checked my 550 with the 45acp dies. As soon as the case starts into the sizer die, all play is gone. So, how is this an issue?

[Lefty Red]

So why would a bit of play in the 550 tool head be a problem. I'm thinking all the play is gone before the 4 cases have made it to the top of their stroke. I just checked my 550 with the 45acp dies. As soon as the case starts into the sizer die, all play is gone. So, how is this an issue?

I don't like slop in something I paid $800 when setup like I want. I put a thin shim in it to stop it, for the price I don't want it. Glad it doesn't bother you, but it's a flaw in the 550. Especially if you don't use the wide mouth/higher cost Dillon dies.

Jerry

[r1kk1]

I don't like slop in something I paid $800 when setup like I want. I put a thin shim in it to stop it, for the price I don't want it. Glad it doesn't bother you, but it's a flaw in the 550. Especially if you don't use the wide mouth/higher cost Dillon dies.

Jerry

The toolhead is made to float. It would be akin to taking the die slop out of a COAX press. If this isn't to your liking then Uniquetek makes a toolhead clamp kit. Both Whidden and Tubbs have competed at the long game using Dillon presses. I load from .17 caliber to 50 non BMG stuff on mine and two cases slow me down because of fragile shoulders - 38-40 and 44-40. I use everyone's dies except for maybe a Lee rifle FCD in the last station. Using Dillon's instructions, I will fill the shellplate up, THEN tighten down each lockring. I lower the shellplate and then load. If a problem, I may use an O ring under the offending die or switch it out.

What concentricity gauge are you using Jerry?

take care

r1kk1

[Outer Rondacker]

Small rant at the end of post. Warning for those who get feelings hurt. (Edited out)

Jerry um its a DILLON so take advantage of that no BS warranty and get her fixed. Hope it works out.

Dikman I totally agree with you on CS and your on your own with Lee. Now if I was to have an issue and they fixed it I would change my point of view but as it stands I am with you. Does not mean I would not buy from them again. I bet I will.

Grill Dog I think you are correct but hey if you can save some money on a used one then why not.

On one more note. (rant edited out respect has gone the way of the dodo)

I am really enjoying this threads info and point of views. I would even go far enough to say I have made a few new forum friends. Thanks

[Lefty Red]

Gentlemen,
I'm no fanboy of any brand or color. I have a RL450 that is the bomb! I see why it's so popular. Waiting for another one to have one in small primer and one in large primer set up. If something has a flaw, I point it out. And yes, I have called Dillon about to and they said it will have a bit of movement and it's more noticeable when using non Dillon dies. They suggested the thin shim and it's good. But do wish they had a fastening system that took it all out and not just pins, cause I think the tool head should be locked in solid and not move. But it works and it's still a great press, aka the best cross between a progressive and turret press there is. Dos it have flaws, of course.

r1kk1, I will look into that if the shim isn't working or case start to bind up going into the die. But Dillon said if that happens then call them back and they will ship my press back or just send another frame if I want. Great customer service!

Thank you,
Jerry

[r1kk1]

Gentlemen,
I'm no fanboy of any brand or color. I have a RL450 that is the bomb! I see why it's so popular. Waiting for another one to have one in small primer and one in large primer set up. If something has a flaw, I point it out. And yes, I have called Dillon about to and they said it will have a bit of movement and it's more noticeable when using non Dillon dies. They suggested the thin shim and it's good. But do wish they had a fastening system that took it all out and not just pins, cause I think the tool head should be locked in solid and not move. But it works and it's still a great press, aka the best cross between a progressive and turret press there is. Dos it have flaws, of course.

r1kk1, I will look into that if the shim isn't working or case start to bind up going into the die. But Dillon said if that happens then call them back and they will ship my press back or just send another frame if I want. Great customer service!

Thank you,
Jerry

http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1230

they also sell Whidden toolheads with the clamp installed.

R1kk1

[toallmy]

Witch have the better powder feed , or more consistent powder measure Dillon 550 or lee load master . Just curious this weakened I went through 7-800 rounds of 9mms, 45 acp as of now I load in blocks single stage but as I get the loading worked out I would like to ramp up production. The coast of the Dillon would cover a load master for each but if the 550 is that much better it would be worth the one time cost . I generally keep things for a lifetime good or bad I still use my 3 hole lee forme the early 80s thought of getting a new single stage but never did . Would you buy a beat up 550 for 300 bucks or a new load master .

[r1kk1]

Witch have the better powder feed , or more consistent powder measure Dillon 550 or lee load master . Just curious this weakened I went through 7-800 rounds of 9mms, 45 acp as of now I load in blocks single stage but as I get the loading worked out I would like to ramp up production. The coast of the Dillon would cover a load master for each but if the 550 is that much better it would be worth the one time cost . I generally keep things for a lifetime good or bad I still use my 3 hole lee forme the early 80s thought of getting a new single stage but never did . Would you buy a beat up 550 for 300 bucks or a new load master .

Loadmaster doesn't do what I need to do. I have just about every shellplate for the 550 and use them! I use Dillon for ball and most flake and shortcut sticks. I use a JDS QM for the other powders mounted to my 550. Mine started out as a 450 back in mid 80s. Mine has loaded into six figures of ammo. I load at least 2500 rounds a month on mine on the average. It was way more than that a decade ago when the kids were at home.

take care

r1kk1

[Outer Rondacker]

Lots going on with the shell plate moving and adding a case plus bullet. Go for a 650 over a 550. 550 is not a progressive in my mind.

[r1kk1]

Lots going on with the shell plate moving and adding a case plus bullet. Go for a 650 over a 550. 550 is not a progressive in my mind.

So what do you call it?

r1kk1

[toallmy]

My truck takes me where I need to go , but a bike would beat walking I am currently loading one at a time . Roller skates would be like a hotrod . Just started using a powder measure a little over a year ago that seemed like break neck speed .

[Outer Rondacker]

So what do you call it?

r1kk1 Good question. Better then a single stage but more confusing to a new guy as it has more steps going on. I cant answer your question as I am not sure what to call it. I guess a turret press? You just turn the bottom turret.


My truck takes me where I need to go , but a bike would beat walking I am currently loading one at a time . Roller skates would be like a hotrod . Just started using a powder measure a little over a year ago that seemed like break neck speed . When a kid is growing they never say I want to live in a trailer. It happens. Everyone wants a shinny race car or bad ars truck but we settle for what we can afford and what works for us. Work van, rusty truck, electric car and so on. Some get the corvette no mater what and good for them. Same goes with everything in life. For me I am not rich or ever well off. I make due in many places. I do have one vice and I over live my means in this one area of life. What I am saying is you might be on a very tight budget and still blow 700 dollars on a press if that is what works for you. You might be more then well off like Fortune Cookie 45LC and still run lee stuff. Some things are worth spending more on and that is what we are discussing on this thread. Only you can decide what works for you. I hope we are able to help with that. Keep an eye on this thread and learn with me the pros and cons others have had with the Lee Progressive line.

[rbuck351]

Turret presses do one operation at a time. Progressive presses do all the operations with one stroke of the handle. One stroke = one loaded round. The 550 is progressive it's just a manual indexing progressive vs an auto indexing. I favor the manual index. The 550 can be used as a single stage, a turret or a manual index progressive. Unlike the Lee Pro 1000, you can put a case on the press at any station you want or if you have a damaged case you missed you can remove it any time you want so it does not have to go through the complete cycle. I use several different makes of dies on my 550 with the floppy tool head without problems if the little spring thing that holds the case in the shell plate on stage one is properly adjusted. If not adjusted right, the case may not start into a non Dillon die. If I could find a beater Dillon 550 for $300 I would buy it in a heartbeat and I don't even need it. I bought mine new about 25 years ago for around $325 that I really couldn't afford. Many like the LNL but I have no experience with one. I assume they are a good press as well. I have a bunch of experience with the Pro 1000 and would never recommend one to those that aren't a good tinker. Also no experience with the LM but would like to get one to see their issues.
The only issues I have ever had with the 550 is it rarely spits a primer out of the carrier from the primer tube to the shell plate. Maybe once in 500. This may be caused by gunk building up in that area. I keep a tooth brush handy and give that area a few strokes every time I change out a primer tube. Also my 38spl shell plate was miss indexed and I had to hold a little back pressure on it to make sure the primer was aligned with the case. Dillon gave me a new plate which fixed it. I can strongly recommend the Dillon 550b. Yep, it is expensive but it will work.

[r1kk1]

[QUOTE=Outer Rondacker;3552245]Good question. Better then a single stage but more confusing to a new guy as it has more steps going on. I cant answer your question as I am not sure what to call it. I guess a turret press? You just turn the bottom turret.[QUOTE]

Since none of the turret presses I've seen do NOT use a shellplate, they use a shellholder doing one thing at a time. Progressive's do use shellplates whether they are manual indexed or auto indexed, and can do one or several operations at the same time. There are three manual indexing progressive presses are available from Dillon. Dillon builds nothing but progressives. They don't build turret's or single stages. The RCBS Pro 2000 can be had with manual or auto indexing.

take care,

r1kk1

[oldfart1956]

Rbuck, just wanted to note here as some may not be aware but you can, actually, remove or add a case in the Pro-1000 at any time the carrier is not fully in the up or down position. Anywhere in between full up/down there is nothing holding the shellplate in position except the springloaded ball bearing in station 3. Or, of course, a case/cases up inside the dies. Try this, raise the shellplate up just enough to clear the primer pin and rotate the shellplate. (no cases in the press) See? And yes you can pull or add a case. There are gaps in the side of the carrier to allow this. I do this when setting o.a.l. as it may take a few tries till I get it right. Also use it to check powder drops. Audie...the Oldfart.

[Lefty Red]

Witch have the better powder feed , or more consistent powder measure Dillon 550 or lee load master . Just curious this weakened I went through 7-800 rounds of 9mms, 45 acp as of now I load in blocks single stage but as I get the loading worked out I would like to ramp up production. The coast of the Dillon would cover a load master for each but if the 550 is that much better it would be worth the one time cost . I generally keep things for a lifetime good or bad I still use my 3 hole lee forme the early 80s thought of getting a new single stage but never did . Would you buy a beat up 550 for 300 bucks or a new load master .

The 550 everyday time, and twice on Sunday!
i picked up an older 450 for about $150 of you take away the other stuff that came with it. I would pay $300 for another one tomorrow. The only thing that would maybe it perfect is if the toolhead would accept Hornady's LNL quick change die inserts. Now I'm worried someone is going to post that a member could/did do that and I will have to send my extra frame to them!

But seriously, the 550 is a game changer for reloaders.

As far as powder charges, they are equal IMHO. In fact I'm using the Lee Pro Auto Disc Measure and Lee Powder Thru Die for my calibers on the 550, 380 and 9mm right now. I use a Lyman 55 on my 450 for my 44s and 45ACP. It's cheaper for me to use the Lee measures I have instead of buying a Dillon one. Only complaint I have with the Lee is I wish the hopper was bigger.

Jerry

[Lefty Red]

That is exactly what I was thinking about!
Going to get one!

Jerry

[dikman]

oldfart, you beat me to it! I'm actually getting quite good at removing/replacing shells :roll:.

[outdoorfan]

Worth reading again, never read that before talking about a Lee progressive and not very likely to in the future.

I have loaded several thousand rounds on my Loadmaster that I purchased new one year ago, and approximately the last 2000 rounds or so were without one single primer issue/failure whatsoever. Over the course of setting it up and all the use it's had over this past year I have had only one or two primer failures that I couldn't seem to quickly figure out and that didn't seem to be my error in setting things up and operating. That's right, only two or so primer failures in several thousand rounds loaded. I'm happy!

[rbuck351]

Hey Audie
Thanks for that tip. I did not think you could back up the shell plate but you can if you haven't gone to far up on the stroke. I can't tell you how much time I've wasted setting up the dies in the three I have. The Dillon 550 is much less hassle setting up dies as you can work one station at a time and just slide the case in and out. The other thing is the die turret isn't locked in and moves around when tightening the die lock nuts. I don't use the O rings in mine as once adjusted and locked down they are a permanent part of that tool head as far as I'm concerned. My three are each set up for one caliber and once working properly I'm not readjusting anything. I currently have a Star Universal for my 38spl, a 550b for my lg primer pistols, three Pro 1000s, 32S&W, 7.62x25 and 9mm, 2 turrets, a Lyman AA and a Spar T and a Rock Crusher for case forming, GC making and such. The Star should out last all the others but it is a real PITA if something happens to a case part way through . Other than the Lyman AA the Dillon is the easiest to use.

[Outer Rondacker]

Thank you Audie. Saved me the trouble.

rbuck351 your reloading room sounds like mine. A bit of everything. With three pro 1000s running you are happy with them I would take it.

[dudel]

The 550 has a little play in the removable tool head, just a tad I would say. Still no where near the play in the Lee CTP.


The play isn't really a problem. When the ram is up, the tool head is pushed to the top of the slot every time. It may float a bit in the slot, but when it's sizing, flaring, seating and crimping, the toolhead is at the same position every time.


Yeah, I noticed quite a bit of play in my CTP (when I had it).

[44Vaquero]

I have run an original Load Master for 24 years and rebuilt and or fix many Pro-1000's. I have never seen one that if set up correctly and used correctly that could not be made to produce quality ammunition!

My bench currently has a Load Master (dedicated to .45 ACP), a Lee classic cast Pro-1000 hybrid and a Lee Automator all capable of full-filling my ammunition requirements.

161635

The Classic Cast Pro-1000 also sports a DCCF MKI (Dirt Cheap Case Feeder) and is set up for .357/.38.

What would you like to know about any of them?

[.429]

After keeping up with this thread, I think I'll ask the wifey for a loadmaster this next Christmas. I hope they are shipping them with the auto drum by then.

[Outer Rondacker]

I have run an original Load Master for 24 years and rebuilt and or fix many Pro-1000's. I have never seen one that if set up correctly and used correctly that could not be made to produce quality ammunition!

My bench currently has a Load Master (dedicated to .45 ACP), a Lee classic cast Pro-1000 hybrid and a Lee Automator all capable of full-filling my ammunition requirements.

161635

The Classic Cast Pro-1000 also sports a DCCF MKI (Dirt Cheap Case Feeder) and is set up for .357/.38.

What would you like to know about any of them?If you had to pick one to use for just lead cast 45 acp in LP what one would it be? :}


After keeping up with this thread, I think I'll ask the wifey for a loadmaster this next Christmas. I hope they are shipping them with the auto drum by then. Auto drum? First I have heard of that. I will have to look into it and see what it is.

[.429]

If you had to pick one to use for just lead cast 45 acp in LP what one would it be? :}

Auto drum? First I have heard of that. I will have to look into it and see what it is.

The auto drum is Lee's newest powder measure. There are several folks saying it's their best measure thus far.

[44Vaquero]

Outer Rondacker:

I use my LM as a dedicated .45 ACP press because I seat and TC (Taper Crimp) in 2 operations. I do not use the FCD but if you do? The Load Master is the clear choice.

My 1911's seem to prefer ammo produced in this manner. YMMV

I run Pro's and the Automator for .44 mag/special and .357/.38 with no issues. Revolvers not being as picky?

[Outer Rondacker]

I have an sp101 that is very picky so I always keep a four die setup going on 357. Up to now I have been using my 45Gap dies to load 45acp. That is only a three die set.

[jmorris]

Even Dave Scovill, editor of Rifle/Handloader Magazine, has said, in print, that he has NEVER seen a working Lee LoadMaster. I haven't either.

Here you go, a Loadmaster loading 100 rounds faster than any machine you or even Dave have used.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9pjmuHAkBU

[Outer Rondacker]

Dont get much more proof then that.

[flyingmonkey35]

Here you go, a Loadmaster loading 100 rounds faster than any machine you or even Dave have used.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9pjmuHAkBU
What witchcraft and wizardry is this. Must be fake. [emoji79]

[jmorris]

No spells were cast in the making of that video but if your the kind of guy that has to call road side assistance to change a flat tire the LM is not for you.

[flyingmonkey35]

No spells were cast in the making of that video but if your the kind of guy that has to call road side assistance to change a flat tire the LM is not for you.
Lol although I did spot a few fail to feed from the bullet feeder.

But I wonder if the shake break from mikes would help stop that.

[jmorris]

Bolting it directly do the bench would have helped, the collator shaking fed the two inverted.

The add on front post would have done it too. The next guy that owns it will have to worry about it though.

[Swede 45]

I´ll share my experinces with Lee Pro1000..
I got my first one in 1991 and have since then loaded about 3000 9mm rounds on it.. each year! That sums up to about 75.000 rounds.
I think the Lee Pro1000 is an excellent press for the money spent.. Can you buy better? Yes. Can you buy more expensive? Yes. Will a Pro 1000 last a lifetime? Well, that depends on the milage you got left in you and how hard you run it meanwhile!

As mentioned, Lee needs some tinkering and a sharp eye to run flawless.. Keep it clean and properly adjusted, primer and powder kept within a certain min-max fill and it will run great.
My experiences are:
Priming: Keep your indexing correct, no overtravel on the index! Keep your primerslide clean.. dont run primers low so that the gravity feed gets compromized and then the priming will work just fine!
Powder: Dont spill any.. if so, clean with a soft brush and canned air.. Dont run the powderlevel low in the hopper, chances are the charge starts to wander off to the lesser side. I keep my powder level no lower than half. I get very accurate and even charges by doing so.
Don´t trust the disk/powder chart! Weight on a separate beem scale of good quality to assure what the choosen disk actually throws!

Realize that most problems are user based! There are no idiot proof stuff!
Realize that plastic and aluminium are soft materials that wear! Replacements might be neccesary during time.

What have broken on my Proo100 over the years?
Cracked the carrier three times: once by overtightening the ram screw.. my fault! Once by not keeping the base of the press clean and letting spent primers pileing up and putting pressure on the small thingy that holds the spring to the priming rod.. my mistake! And once by having the sizing die set to low contacting the shellplate causing a slight bend to the carrier that finally cracked the carrier.. my fault!
Wear: I´ve changed the hex ratchet and gear once..
One steel shoulderbolt that holds the link to the body was coming loose, caused wear to the threads in the body and stripped. I fixed that by making a oversized bolt and re threading the body.

Would I recommend a Pro1000 to a new reloader? No, I wouldnt recommend any progressive press at all, until he knows the basics and have loaded at least 500 rounds or so on a single stage.
Would I recommend a Pro1000 to a reloader that is tight on budget, but wants to up his volume of ammo made? Is the guy someone who understand instructions and have a sence of troubleshooting? Will he load aprox 1000 rds a year? Yes I would! I would also tell him that there is other presses out there..
Would I recommend a progressive press to JoeFiveThumbs with a "know it all already" attitude? No, i would point him to factory ammo bargains..

My dedicated 9mm Pro1000 are now up for retirement, and beeing short on cash I leaned towards a Loadmaster as I´m familiar with and not afraid of the tinkering required.. I also wanted a 5 station press and felt abit limited with the 3 station Pro1000 as I´ve started to seat and crimp separately.
A close financial sponsor (read wife) put in some extra cash so I ordered a Dillon 650.
Why? Well, the lifetime warranty was one thing, the powderslide was one, (didnt like the Lee adjustable one or the limitation of set discs), and the fact that there is a Dillon Rep in my country, but no Lee Rep, was the last one.
Will the dillon make better ammo? No, prolly not. Will it requires some tinkering? Yes, I guess so? Will it be maintainance free? Nope!

And I still have two more Pro1000´s as dedicated 38/357 and 45acp presses..

And this thing about you get what you pay for? Sure, true to some level.. how much can I afford and how much will I use it ? There are alot of cheap stuff that doesnt work at all, there are things that work for the intended use, but not for long. There are some gear that gives you good value for money, and also alot of overprized stuff where you pay for the hype!
I would put my LeePro1000´s in the good value for money bracket, if you are willing to put some tinkering in to it and not abuse it by neglect..
Dillon? Well, time will tell.

[RP]

Ok guys cleaned this up so those who want to learn and those who want to help can get back to it.

[jmorris]

I think I could deal with a Loadmaster for 3000 rounds a year. I have done that on a turret before. We are only talking about 9 rounds a day taking holidays off.

[Lefty Red]

I think I could deal with a Loadmaster for 3000 rounds a year. I have done that on a turret before. We are only talking about 9 rounds a day taking holidays off.

Or even the Pro 1000 at twice the amount. Although the LM does look like the better choice for just a little more money.

[JeffG]

Swede 45, very nice and thoughtful response.

I have a LM picked up second hand for a good price. I prefer using an M die, plus charge, seat and crimp all in separate stages, so the Pro 1000 wouldn't fit how I want to operate. I decap and cap on a single stage, get the cases in blocks, spray them with One Shot then into the case collator on the LM. I keep it clean, lubed, adjusted (which I haven't needed to touch since I set the carrier index a couple years ago) and it works great. Easy, deliberate and consistent actions on the press and no issues. I have use Magic Mikes billet turrets plus his turret stabilizer plates, so that is helping to maintain more consistent COAL. I have one turret setup for 9x18 Makarov and another for 9x19. I have a Hornady case activated power measure I use on mine. I never used the Lee powder measure that I got with the unit. It may have been just fine but I wanted the Hornady setup instead. I guess I've probably loaded about 6-7000 rounds on it so far. I still have 2 Lee turrets and am thinking I will setup one for 7.62x25mm Tokarev soon. Fun fun fun. I love the press, it does just fine for me. If you go the LM route, order up one of the Hornady LED light strips to stick to the inside of the press frame. It really lights thing up over the shellplate nicely so you can see into the cases.

[JohnH]

I've been following this thread since the beginning for a couple reasons, but mainly because I just bought the LoadMaster basic press http://www.midwayusa.com/product/671219/lee-load-master-progressive-press This press only comes with a turrent, no shell plates or other gizmos. I figured I already have all my own dies, a measure and priming system, a Lee handpriming tool.

I run all my cases through a stainless pin tumbling system (The Frankford Arsenal tool, yes I like it) and deprime everything prior to cleaning so the primer pocket gets clean too. Everything I've read about the Loadmaster and the Pro 1000 points to the priming system being one of the two if not the major problem causer. I figured if I did that operation off press then I could simply eliminate the issue. I've run a Dillon 650 ( neighbors) and part of Dillons process with rifle cases is to lube them first. I lube my pistol cases to reduce the stress on my shoulder (more on that in a minute) and thought if I'm running lubed cases through a press prior to priming on the press, how would that be different from priming lubed cases off press; it ain't. I use Dillon's lube, it is nothing but lanolin dissolved in alcohol (there's recipes here on how to make it if you want, I buy it at a shop 4 miles from work) Follow Dillons directions. I removed the decapping stem from the sizing die so there is no issue with decapping a live primer. On a rifle die simply remove the decapping pin as the stem also carries the neck expander and you'll need that.

My powder measure is an RCBS Lil Dandy and it works OK but is too thought intensive in a pregressive reloading situation. Being manually operated, you have to be conscious at every stroke to charge the case at the powder charging station (station 2). I've got a Lee Auto Drum on the way. There is a guy on You Tube with several videos on the product (not Lee's promotional video, an end user) and it seems a solid tool as well there are a couple threads here you can search and read, seems Lee hit a homer on the Auto Drum. Do a Google search on Lee Auto Drum video and the links will pop right up.

To help prevent a squib I took a 45-70 neck expander I don't use, removed the guts, dropped a 5/16" x 3" bolt into it and put it in station 3 so that after powder charging (station 2), the case will lift the bolt in station 3 and give a visual inspection of if I have powder or not in the case. The Auto Drum measure should remedy this problem but I may choose to leave it there, it is a simple powder check but effective so long as watching for the movement each stroke. The Dillon powder check is an audio system, you'll get a buzzer if the case is not charged or double charged but I don't know if it can be used on the Lee press. I had a double charge once and am terrified of what happens when one goes bang. My nephew had a squib once as well. Luckily the bullet stopped in the throat of the revolvers barrel and wouldn't let it index. He was doing his best to cock the gun again before I got to him to stop him. Either condition is to be devoutly avoided and you cannot waste time when checking to ensure proper powder charging.

Many years ago now I had a surgery on my shoulder to repair a torn rotator cuff tendon. It took a long time to heal over it and now age a arthritis are gangin up on me and a single stage press requires too much cycling to make up a large batch of ammo for the range. I got a progressive NOT to make more ammo and NOT to make ammo fast but to reduce the number of strokes to make the ammo I make. Think about it, to make 100 rounds on a single stage press takes a minimum of 300 strokes. The progressive reduces that to 100 + the number required to get the first loaded round off the press, in the case of the Loadmaster that's 5 so now I'm at 105 strokes instead of 400 (I crimp in a separate die, adds a step)

So far I've only loaded 125 round on the press but man do I like it. The only thing I don't like about the Loadmaster is the indexing drive bar. It's operation is simple but like I read elsewhere it is a Rube Goldberg design, not complicated but a design reduced to the least number of moving parts, if you get a Loadmaster you will see what I mean.

The Loadmaster overall is a solid press. Having run a Dillon over the course of several months, I can't say the Lee is it's equal, both have their own issues and both have keeping the priming system clean in common, but if you have decent mechanical ability and will check what the problem is and resolve it before hammering through it, I believe the Loadmaster will serve you well.

[Lefty Red]

I've been following this thread since the beginning for a couple reasons, but mainly because I just bought the LoadMaster basic press http://www.midwayusa.com/product/671219/lee-load-master-progressive-press This press only comes with a turrent, no shell plates or other gizmos. I figured I already have all my own dies, a measure and priming system, a Lee handpriming tool.

I run all my cases through a stainless pin tumbling system (The Frankford Arsenal tool, yes I like it) and deprime everything prior to cleaning so the primer pocket gets clean too. Everything I've read about the Loadmaster and the Pro 1000 points to the priming system being one of the two if not the major problem causer. I figured if I did that operation off press then I could simply eliminate the issue. I've run a Dillon 650 ( neighbors) and part of Dillons process with rifle cases is to lube them first. I lube my pistol cases to reduce the stress on my shoulder (more on that in a minute) and thought if I'm running lubed cases through a press prior to priming on the press, how would that be different from priming lubed cases off press; it ain't. I use Dillon's lube, it is nothing but lanolin dissolved in alcohol (there's recipes here on how to make it if you want, I buy it at a shop 4 miles from work) Follow Dillons directions. I removed the decapping stem from the sizing die so there is no issue with decapping a live primer. On a rifle die simply remove the decapping pin as the stem also carries the neck expander and you'll need that.

My powder measure is an RCBS Lil Dandy and it works OK but is too thought intensive in a pregressive reloading situation. Being manually operated, you have to be conscious at every stroke to charge the case at the powder charging station (station 2). I've got a Lee Auto Drum on the way. There is a guy on You Tube with several videos on the product (not Lee's promotional video, an end user) and it seems a solid tool as well there are a couple threads here you can search and read, seems Lee hit a homer on the Auto Drum. Do a Google search on Lee Auto Drum video and the links will pop right up.

To help prevent a squib I took a 45-70 neck expander I don't use, removed the guts, dropped a 5/16" x 3" bolt into it and put it in station 3 so that after powder charging (station 2), the case will lift the bolt in station 3 and give a visual inspection of if I have powder or not in the case. The Auto Drum measure should remedy this problem but I may choose to leave it there, it is a simple powder check but effective so long as watching for the movement each stroke. The Dillon powder check is an audio system, you'll get a buzzer if the case is not charged or double charged but I don't know if it can be used on the Lee press. I had a double charge once and am terrified of what happens when one goes bang. My nephew had a squib once as well. Luckily the bullet stopped in the throat of the revolvers barrel and wouldn't let it index. He was doing his best to cock the gun again before I got to him to stop him. Either condition is to be devoutly avoided and you cannot waste time when checking to ensure proper powder charging.

Many years ago now I had a surgery on my shoulder to repair a torn rotator cuff tendon. It took a long time to heal over it and now age a arthritis are gangin up on me and a single stage press requires too much cycling to make up a large batch of ammo for the range. I got a progressive NOT to make more ammo and NOT to make ammo fast but to reduce the number of strokes to make the ammo I make. Think about it, to make 100 rounds on a single stage press takes a minimum of 300 strokes. The progressive reduces that to 100 + the number required to get the first loaded round off the press, in the case of the Loadmaster that's 5 so now I'm at 105 strokes instead of 400 (I crimp in a separate die, adds a step)

So far I've only loaded 125 round on the press but man do I like it. The only thing I don't like about the Loadmaster is the indexing drive bar. It's operation is simple but like I read elsewhere it is a Rube Goldberg design, not complicated but a design reduced to the least number of moving parts, if you get a Loadmaster you will see what I mean.

The Loadmaster overall is a solid press. Having run a Dillon over the course of several months, I can't say the Lee is it's equal, both have their own issues and both have keeping the priming system clean in common, but if you have decent mechanical ability and will check what the problem is and resolve it before hammering through it, I believe the Loadmaster will serve you well.

You are going to love the Lee Auto Drum! I bought three! Will replace all but one of my Auto Disc PMs.

+1 on a light spray lube with any progressive press. Make the operation so much easier on the shoulders.

Jerry

[Outer Rondacker]

Many years ago now I had a surgery on my shoulder to repair a torn rotator cuff tendon. It took a long time to heal over it and now age a arthritis are gangin up on me and a single stage press requires too much cycling to make up a large batch of ammo for the range. I got a progressive NOT to make more ammo and NOT to make ammo fast but to reduce the number of strokes to make the ammo I make. Think about it, to make 100 rounds on a single stage press takes a minimum of 300 strokes. The progressive reduces that to 100 + the number required to get the first loaded round off the press, in the case of the Loadmaster that's 5 so now I'm at 105 strokes instead of 400 (I crimp in a separate die, adds a step)


I am in the same boat. Three opps later it still gets to me. I am going to look at a used Lee LoadMaster this weekend and will see if it follows me home. I will keep you guys posted.

Update. I took a ride with the wife and I bought this box of parts. Looks like I am missing the primer trays, case feeder and tubes. For some reason I have the primer trays. This being funny since I have never owned a Lee press. Anyway I will get it going first without the case feeder and once it is I will pick one up. So once I got home I had a chance to open up my box. Looks like a fun project. Hope you all will keep track of this thread to see if I can get it working. I have a secret weapon. This is some of what I got.

[toallmy]

Good stuff , very interesting .

[Outer Rondacker]

I think I was more happy with the savage 340 mag in 30/30 for $5 extra bucks. Woo hoo.

[rkcohen]

I have two lp1000s, one set up for 38 wadcutters, one for 45acp swc and do a slight "cheat" much like johnh - I clean/deprime cases prior to operation.

I keep a constant wipe-down going immediately before and after each session - focus on the priming station - no issues with the system!

remember, these are set up for midrange practice loads - all hunting/target loads where specs are critical are done with weighed charges and a single stage press...

[jmorris]

This is some of what I got

If that is the $65 one you were talking about you did well.

http://www.titanreloading.com/presses/lee-load-master for the parts you need.

[toallmy]

:popcorn:I have never ordered from titan , but it seems to be a good choice . I'm watching to see how Outer Rondacker makes out .

[Lefty Red]

Titan is a good company to deal with.

[Outer Rondacker]

If that is the $65 one you were talking about you did well.

http://www.titanreloading.com/presses/lee-load-master for the parts you need.Yes sir it is. It ended up being one pound of RED DOT and 30 bucks. I even gave him another five dollars for that savage 340 mag in the pic. It was a ok day.

Now for the questions. Why are some of the primer pickups different colors. The one I have is white. Should I replace it with the red one Titan sells? I know that Lee made different Gens. Any way of knowing what one is what or best.
Also anyone know where the spent primers are going? I got this thing it had 54 spent primers and two hot primers under the shell plate.
I will say I got it to cycle smooth and deprime/size. Next is to play with primer feed.

[rtracy2001]

Yes sir it is. It ended up being one pound of RED DOT and 30 bucks. I even gave him another five dollars for that savage 340 mag in the pic. It was a ok day.

Now for the questions. Why are some of the primer pickups different colors. The one I have is white. Should I replace it with the red one Titan sells? I know that Lee made different Gens. Any way of knowing what one is what or best.
Also anyone know where the spent primers are going? I got this thing it had 54 spent primers and two hot primers under the shell plate.
I will say I got it to cycle smooth and deprime/size. Next is to play with primer feed.

I only have experience with the latest generation of priming system from Lee, and even then only with the small primer feed which is black in my case. Looking on Lee's website, the current large primer through should be red.

There was a third generation design change on the primer feeder effective
October 27, 2011 eliminating nuisance damage to the primer sliders and trough
cover during operation. Formerly the white cover and trough, now sold as an
assembly along with the primer slider, primer lever, 6-32 x 1/4 screw and
o-ring. This assembly replaces parts: LM3252, LM3247A , LM3247B and LM3251

http://leeprecision.com/lg-lm-p-trough-assem-red.html

As far as the spent primers are concerned, there is a little metal sliding door in the bottom of the ram. With the press mounted to the bench and the handle up, open that door and the spent primers fall out (remember to put a bucket under there). Sometimes they get stuck and you need to tap the side of the ram with a plastic or wooden dowel. If they are really stuck bad, use a long screwdriver to reach into the little door and stir them up.

Remember to close the door before pulling the handle down or it will bend when it hits the underside of your bench.

I wish they had a hose nipple instead of that door so I could just run a chunk of tubing down into the trash can.

[Outer Rondacker]

Looks like I will be ordering a red set up. Not bad 18 bucks. While I am at it might better toss in the case feeder for another 18 bucks. I will play with this a bit more and make sure that is all that is needed before placing the order.

This is a job for nights and snow days. Its a sun shinny day and my lead pot is heating up.

[jmorris]

Get a few of the index flippers too with your order, you don't want to pay shipping for a $2 part down the road.

[JohnH]

Get a few of the index flippers too with your order, you don't want to pay shipping for a $2 part down the road. How often does this part give problems?

[1bluehorse]

How often does this part give problems?


Very rarely unless the index rod gets a little jammed up as it's moving along the "ridge" (usually due to improper adjustment) and you decide to "just make it work" by ramming on the handle. That will generally screw them up....still, a couple spares is cheap insurance just in case. [smilie=l:

[Lefty Red]

How often does this part give problems?

Not a lot. Just good to have them and extra depriming pins on hand when dealing with Lee. :)

Jerry

[Outer Rondacker]

Not sure. This press came with two. I pulled it apart and polished the dickens out of it. This thing is like butter smooth. There is a slight catch as you push the handle back in and it hits the indexing rod. I have a feeling with the design its going to do that no mater what. So now that I polished it all up I can run it with one finger not even trying hard at all. It was kinda gritty before. Got me thinking perhaps I should do this to some of my blue and other red presses.

2 dollar part you say I will toss some in the cart. Thanks for the heads up. I am not even going to screw with the oldschool primer set up. So I will skip that part for now. I have set up the primer seating adjustment so once I get the new parts that will be ready to go.

Next is to learn what powder measure/drop is going to work the best out of the two I got with it. I know nothing of lee parts so this is a small task within its self. I have a set up that does not need a chain then there is a update kit that comes with a chain. Ugg off to learn some of that stuff.

On another note; My shell plate does not look like others I have seen online. On the bottom I have five round post that are used to index the plate. The ones I have seen online in pics have like a star. Just putting this out there not sure what it means.

I am going to be honest. So far!!!!! I have not messed with the primer set up. Other then that I see no issues with this press. With that said I knock on wood.

[rtracy2001]

The 5 round pins on the shell plate just means it is an older model.

Led recommends the chain return instead of the spring. It helps to eliminate double charges. (The powder measure doesn't reset until the press indexes to the next case.) I use the spring return without issue. It is a preference thing.

[wawoodwa]

Mine is the round pin type and it works well. Also, you can take the shell plate off and use a long bamboo skewer to kick some of the spent primers out of the door in the bottom of the ram. You can move a lot of cases through though in between spent primer dumps.

Once you get the case feeder, get a bottle of STP engine treatment. Use that to lube UNDERNEATH the case feeder slide, just a finger worth, like you would use to rub sizing lube on a case. It will make that part work as smooth as butter.

[dikman]

I reckon you done real good! As for Titan, yep, bought quite a bit of stuff from them and found them great to deal with.

[jmorris]

How often does this part give problems?

Depends but it is the most critical and most likely part to fail as far as indexing is concerned and costs less than it would to ship it.

If you don't have an extra and need it, you will have wished that you included if on your last, more substantial, order.

[toallmy]

:-PI understand Mr Outer Rondacker is sitting up for 45acp , but wile talking about loadmaster how about shell plate conversion , I see that a # 19 plate is used for 9-10 mms but a #4 is used for 223 , on other presses the same shell plate can be used for both like 9 / 223 and I believe 45 / and 308 . Do some of you gentlemen swap calibers on your loadmaster . I am pleased to see that your new project seams to be operating smooth .

[Outer Rondacker]

Thanks for the info guys. I will be putting the Lee Load Master on hold for a day. The wife said I am taking up to much space with my gun related items. She is correct. So my small reloading area is getting a new home. I am going to clear a small area of one room and put up a wall with a pocket door. This will keep my gun related items from the eyes of any who stop over. The room is small 9'6"x12'. Cleaning building moving things. I hope to be done by tonight with the revamp mount the press to the bench for good. I will be taking a brake to order from Titan today at some point.

[Outer Rondacker]

Waiting for the wife to leave to get started I saw a post. Toallmy yes my plate will work for 243,308,30-06,45,22-250, 250,22br,30-06,284win,280rem,7mm-08 and so many more. That is plate number 2.

[jmorris]

It is true that Lee uses the same shell plate for 9mm and 40/10mm but it is actually too large for 9mm and I had problems priming them before I put an extra die in #2 to keep the case centered for priming.

.223 and .380 are closer to one another than the larger rim of the 9x19.

[toallmy]

I thank you gentlemen for the info on the shell plate , and I understand about your toys getting spread out . I run a seasonal finishing business so in my slow off season things sort of get spread out in the living area . No children so it's not a safety issue .

[toallmy]

Jmorris could you use the plate from a 223 set up to run 9s as well .

[magic mike]

https://youtu.be/cxGE04PKd2w

[1bluehorse]

[QUOTE=Outer Rondacker;3560892]


Next is to learn what powder measure/drop is going to work the best out of the two I got with it. I know nothing of lee parts so this is a small task within its self. I have a set up that does not need a chain then there is a update kit that comes with a chain. Ugg off to learn some of that stuff.


Looking at the pictures you posted, it looks as if you have either two of the disc measures OR one disc measure with the "upgrade" to the Pro disc measure. Then you have the Perfect Powder Measure on either a rifle charge die OR the universal charge die. The PPM measure was originally sent with LM's that were ordered for rifle (hence the rifle charge die) BUT if the die is the universal charge die with the brass inserts you can use it for just about any caliber and is a very handy item to have. All that said, for loading for your 45 acp, use the disc measure. More better...:bigsmyl2:

I guess I should read EVERYTHING TWICE before I reply. The one with the chain is the Perfect Powder Measure and the other is the Auto disc with update kit...use that one....[smilie=l:

[toallmy]

;-);-);-)If I don't get off track , u tube is very helpful . I thank you Mike . I'm cheating I'm watching Outer Rondacker work out the loadmaster if it work's I'm in .

[rtracy2001]

but wile talking about loadmaster how about shell plate conversion , I see that a # 19 plate is used for 9-10 mms but a #4 is used for 223 , on other presses the same shell plate can be used for both like 9 / 223 and I believe 45 / and 308 . Do some of you gentlemen swap calibers on your loadmaster . I am pleased to see that your new project seams to be operating smooth .

When I had to send my 223 shell plate back for repair, it took about a week. During that week, I got an itch to reload 223, so I installed my 40 S&W/9mm shellholder and went to town. It worked fine, but was just a little loose. I haven't tried using the 223 shell holder for 9mm.

I load 223, 40 S&W, and 30 carbine on my loadmaster. In the future I will load 9mm, and 38/357. The wife wants a 44 mag, but if I load those on a progressive, I will buy a second press to handle all the large primer rounds. I don't shoot enough volume to load my other rifle calibers on a progressive press (yet).

[Bigslug]

The greatest evidence for the existence of Hell is the primer system on the Lee Pro 1000, because it could not have been spawned anywhere else. . .except maybe a Nazi labor/death camp.

We tuned it, we tweaked it, we changed parts on it, we modified parts for it, we begged it and cursed it. The system that Dad & I arrived at on ours was to size all the brass, prime them with a hand primer, take out the sizing die, and run all the brass through a second time to finish the load. For the better part of a decade we avoided loading pistol ammo because we knew we'd have to deal with "THAT MACHINE"

If I fully tricked out Dillon 650 cost five times what it actually does, I'd find that easier to swallow than the idea of dealing with a Pro 1000 again. It truly is a wretched P. O. S.

[jmorris]

Jmorris could you use the plate from a 223 set up to run 9s as well .


I will be honest and let everyone know that I am not a dedicated loadmaster user. I did spend a week with a "basket case" unit that I was given and looking at many videos and asking questions, with some fab work wound up with the fastest one I have seen but that doesn't make me a guru like mike.

That said, if the 4S shell plate worked for the smaller cases (mine came with a 19s shell plate) it would be a better choice as you might not need an extra die in #2 to center a 9mm case for priming.

[bullseye67]

I must be one of the lucky ones.

I have read horror story after horror story about how bad the Loadmaster is. I received one as a Christmas gift several years ago. It came set up for 38/357. I added a second decapping die, pin removed, at the priming station and a Factory chrimp die.. All 5 die stations are full. I was shooting 1000+ rounds a month of 38 wadcutters, almost all cast and lubed 45/45/10. The biggest problem I had was keeping the primers, cases and bullet feeder tubes full. I don't think I could fill a box(50)with the squibs and damaged cases Three years ago I started shooting .32 S&W Long as my CF Bullseye pistol. I ordered a new turret, 4 die set and an extra decapping die, bullet feed fingers and shell plate. Switched the turret and shell plate, set the dies, bullet feed fingers and away I went. I reloaded and shot over 12,000 almost all cast and 45/45/10 lubed .32 S&W rounds last year and I had 1 sideways and 1 upside-down primers, 3 squibs and 4 damaged cases. This year I upgraded to the new Auto drum powder measure. As I stated earlier I must be "just Lucky" I recommend the LoadMaster to everybody that asks me. I load at a steady speed and the rounds pile up real fast! My advice buy one in the caliber you want to start with and don't look back.

It seems the "problem" LoadMasters are typically 9mm. For the small amount of 9mm I experiment with I have used my Lee turret press. All I can say is YMMV if you are loading 9mm.

[rbuck351]

Bigslug
I understand you're frustration. I have 3 Pro 1000s and after considerable time messing with them and the actual problem, (the powder spitter), they all work fine now.

[Outer Rondacker]

[ I load at a steady speed and the rounds pile up real fast! [/QUOTE]


Bullseye67 Thanks for posting and I hope I have as much luck as you. I am literally waiting on paint to dry for my new loading bench. Then I can get the the press mounted and back to working on it.

I have noticed that the people trying to reload 9mm have extra issues on the LM. Mostly dealing with the shell plate. Those loading 45s seem to have it work ok for them. Humm I think this tells me something. Old time shooter new time shooter. Oh darn I just opened up a whole another can of woopy. Ah my hardener just hit 65 time to go mix it in and finish this bench.

[jmorris]

Humm I think this tells me something. Old time shooter new time shooter.

45's would give folks hell if Lee used the same shell plate for them that they use for 45 LC.

FWIW the 9mm round was created before 45 acp.

[Outer Rondacker]

Ya I know. Just all the young cats like 9mm over 45acp in my area. Think it has to do with cost of gun/bullet.

[wawoodwa]

I like 9 because I can hold 20 in the double stack magazine.

Also, bullseye, I reload 9 on the loadmaster and it works great for me. The key for me is the decap die in position 1 and the carbide sizer die without decapper pin in position 2. Primes perfectly fine.

[bullseye67]

I believe, that what and who, have a lot to do with success.

One of the club members was having problems with his Dillion. Couldn't get reliable ammo. He had squibs,FTFire, FTFeed, you name it he was having it. I went over to see what was up? He had mixed brass 45acp "almost" all LP primers, factory cast lead 230gr bullets and he was using "some powder he was given a couple of years ago". It was in a plastic yougurt container with no lid marked "powder". Nothing was adjusted properly and he was pulling the lever as fast as he could get a bullet on a case. I honestly thought he was going to throw his shoulder out. I suggested STOPPING NOW. I went home picked up some stuff like calipers, powder(Bullseye) and some jacketed 230gr bullets I had. 2 hours later press set up and adjusted, brass sorted LPP only and a known powder. He was amazed the loads were just like factory. Oh yeah and slowing down the operator to a speed that he wasn't rushed.
All rounds functioned perfect at the range. He was ready to give the press away, now he loads a lot of 45acp with cast boolits and 45/45/10.

If the operator is faulty lots of time the cost of the machine won't matter. We laugh about his experience now. It sounds comical when he says "make sure you know what powder you have" or your loads "might not work"

[Outer Rondacker]

Here in NYS we can only have 10 bullets in any semi.

WOW Just WOW. I never got to placing my order yesterday with TITAN RELOADING so I called them today. I was on the phone and asking if the primer kit came with the new primer tray style. The white one and he said yes. Well the picture did not show this. I said thank you very much and got off the phone with a few other questions answered. Sat down at the computer only seconds later and refreshed my screen to head to checkout on titans web page. I saw they had already corrected the picture that fast. Now that is good business. A few seconds later I placed my first order with them and for what it is worth as long as it shows up in a timely fashion I will be using them in the future for sure. VERY happy with my phone call.

I can not find my universal depriming die. I know I have one but can not find it. I will be using a 243 or 308 sizer die for station one. Station two will have my 45 sizing die with no pin in it for now.

[jmorris]

Ya I know. Just all the young cats like 9mm over 45acp in my area. Think it has to do with cost of gun/bullet.


If if your casting your own you get twice as many bullets from the same amount of lead.

115+115=230

[toallmy]

I am hoping to see you pleased with the priming and charge weight Outer Rondacker . I had put the 650 out of my mind ( just couldn't justify to myself the cost with all the extra components and caliber conversion ) for the amount of shooting I do . Wile I have been strongly considering a 550 I ran across this thread and now drawn toward a lee loadmaster . At the cost I could see more than one on the bench . I am almost 50 years old so a lifetime of use to me may be less than to others . I wish you well Sr.

[wawoodwa]

Hello Outer, well, I guess 10 of 45 or 20 of 9, we are both slinging the same amount of lead down range. [emoji3].

Here is a little tidbit on the primer setting. You may already know this, but it helped me out a lot to get it running well.

First, set the carbide die in station 2 (top of stroke, die screwed down to shell plate, locking ring down)

Take a spent case with primer intact and lube it well. (It will be in the sizing die for a little longer than normal).

Screw in/up the primer seating bolt on the left of the press so you have room to screw it down.

With the primer tray removed (no primers in chute), cycle the case to station 2. Then bring case up to top of stroke in the sizing die.

The primer lever should have some play right now. Screw the bolt down to the lever till you feel resistance. This resistance should be the top of the primer seater pushing on the bottom of the spent primer. Lock the screw at this point.

The primer seater should be set correctly. Double check with your first cartridge.

[Outer Rondacker]

Great idea. I will keep this way in mind. Got my tracking info from Titan already so it should not be to long. I would be happy if it was here by Sat. I am playing with powder measures at the moment while I watch paint dry as you all know. I used a bit more hardener on coat two so I am going to give it 24 hours to get solid.

Others have been here before me so I will ask. This next group of pictures I have is what I got with the press for powder measures. Should I change to the newer chain and adjustable powder dohicky or keep it spring run? What is the best slash better way to run on a LM press?
I think this is a Auto disk measure.

162377I am not sure what kinda lee measure this is?162382 This is the update kit to take the spring away and put a chain in not sure what one is better for LM. There is also an adjustable disk to replace the round disks. Are these any good to use? What is the homemade plate with holes? 162385 These are rifle powder measure dies not sure if there of much use anymore. 162386I think this is a pistol powder die it was on the hopper with the chain set up in the second picture.

[Outer Rondacker]

More! Any clue what this dojamohicker is? Also if I am using a lee powder through expanding die why would I need this other die?

[Gillie Dog]

More! Any clue what this dojamohicker is? Also if I am using a lee powder through expanding die why would I need this other die?

Hold down for a bench light.

GD

162394

[Bigslug]

Bigslug
I understand you're frustration. I have 3 Pro 1000s and after considerable time messing with them and the actual problem, (the powder spitter), they all work fine now.

"Considerable time"? You mean you started messing with them when your dad bought you your first razor, and got them running properly just before your 97th birthday? I might believe that.

I think we gave that press away. We might have actually sold it at a gun show, but I don't think my conscience would have allowed me to take money for it. It was one of those Bataan Death March-like experiences that would make a person with a less love of shooting quit the game entirely. What made it worse was having committed resources to multiple calibers on the platform, we felt obligated to MAKE it work, and only had more of our souls sucked out for the trouble.

DO NOT GO THERE! The time you may spend on it makes the price a false economy; the grief it may give you turns what should be fun into competition for your worst job EVER.

[wawoodwa]

Great idea. I will keep this way in mind. Got my tracking info from Titan already so it should not be to long. I would be happy if it was here by Sat. I am playing with powder measures at the moment while I watch paint dry as you all know. I used a bit more hardener on coat two so I am going to give it 24 hours to get solid.

Awesome. I haven't used Titan myself, but with all the good talk about them, I may do so in the future.


Others have been here before me so I will ask. This next group of pictures I have is what I got with the press for powder measures. Should I change to the newer chain and adjustable powder dohicky or keep it spring run? What is the best slash better way to run on a LM press?

Mine came with and I use the Pro Auto Disk, which it seems you have most of the parts. The autodisk requires a doubler for it to throw more powder. Instead, the person you got this from bought and used the perfect powder measure to throw rifle charges.

I would use the chain reset mechanism. It positively makes sure you get a full charge. Based on what you have, I'd try to put the Pro Autodisk in use, but I haven't converted a regular to pro, so I am not sure how to exactly do that. I believe you use the base of the autodisk, use the disks that came with it, replace the spring lever with the lever from the pro update, take the chain off the Perfect powder measure, and use the hopper from the update.


I think this is a Auto disk measure.
162377

I believe you are correct.


I am not sure what kinda lee measure this is?162382

This is the Lee perfect powder measure. It is used to throw large rifle charges


This is the update kit to take the spring away and put a chain in not sure what one is better for LM. There is also an adjustable disk to replace the round disks. Are these any good to use? What is the homemade plate with holes? 162385

Yes, this is the update kit to the Pro autodisk. The adjustable charge bar is designed to "fine tune" charges, but I heard it may not be consistent. I use the round circle manufactured ones. The lever is needed to use the chain. I don't know what the plate is for.


These are rifle powder measure dies not sure if there of much use anymore. 162386

Probably not.


I think this is a pistol powder die it was on the hopper with the chain set up in the second picture.

It is some sort of powder through expanding die.

[Outer Rondacker]

That pistol die has no writing on it what so ever. Not even a mark. Two brass inserts.

As for the Lee perfect powder measure being used for rifle that is awesome. I just happened to pick up an old six station turret and was going to drop rifle dies in it. Now I will add that powder measure.

I think I am going to put the update top on the kit for starters. I ordered a new chain so I do not have to rob the other one.
Thanks for the help.


A light holder really I would of never guessed. Well heck now I need a light. I mean isnt that how it works. I had a set of 10mm dies give to me so I had to buy a gun to match them.

Oh and Im not going there.

[wawoodwa]

That pistol die has no writing on it what so ever. Not even a mark. Two brass inserts.


That may be a Lee Universal Charging Die.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160302/2d9fa825d87968336b2fb2c8597b7536.jpg

[rbuck351]

Bigslug
I have read many times about the Lee Pro 1000 and it's funky primer system being the spawn of Satan. Never having seen one up close, I decided to see what the real story was. I have been a mechanic and automotive machinist for a lot of years as well as a serious tinker kind of guy. So the challange. Can I make one of these things work? I advertised for one or two of these things that simply could not be made to work. I got two fairly cheap. They were missing some parts as well. I also ordered a reman from Lee to help me figure out how it was supposed to fit together and what pieces might be missing. I didn't keep track of the time spent getting all three running properly but probably over thirty hours. What I found is that about 90% of the problem is the powder spitter. The primmer jammer sets directly under the powder spitter and malfunctions with the least bit of foreign substance getting in it. I am not going to go through all the little things that need to be fixed before you can even start loading with a brand new Pro 1000 as the fixes are all over the net and you tube. These presses should be considered a kit that has been assembled to make sure all the pieces are there. They need complete disassembly, smoothed, polished, sanded, and lubed on every piece that moves and touches anything else. Then reassembled and properly adjusted and they work pretty good.

[Outer Rondacker]

That may be a Lee Universal Charging Die.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160302/2d9fa825d87968336b2fb2c8597b7536.jpg I think you are correct again. That is just what it looks like if I unscrew it from the measure. Ill do a little reading on this item to farther understand it. Just in case a future home shows up for it.


Bigslug
So the challange. Can I make one of these things work?

That is where I was at. Parts are due Friday so I will be a LOOSER due to the one thread on this forum and have a nice dinner with my wife then after while we tend to our own things for the day I will retire to the loading bench. This will be running by the end of the weekend.

One more thing. As for the press being a kit. Alert you may not like this statement but its my view. Almost all progressive presses are kits. I have bought guns for pennies on the dollar that would not group. Had nasty triggers. I spent some time and fixed them all. I feel if you are that guy then this press will work for you. But I am not done so dont hold it to me yet. I need coffee.

[rbuck351]

There are people that can fix or make almost anything work. The Pro 1000 has a couple of serious design flaws that can be overcome if you have patience and the ability to see what a mechanical thing is supposed to do and figure out why is isn't. I have a Star Universal that is a nightmare to set up but now that it is set up ( and will stay that way) it will probably work many years without a hitch. I have a Dillon 550b that has worked almost flawlessly for the 20 or so years I have had it. It will spit out a live primer once or twice per thousand. Probably if I didn't wait so long to brush off the primer area, It wouldn't do that. The 550b is one solid work horse with very little that can go wrong. I replaced a 38spl shell plate that was cut wrong from the start and didn't index quite right. Free of course. I do think you are right ALMOST all progressive presses are a kit. I have done nothing to my 550b from the start other than clean and lube. Oops,couple other things, I had to replace the battery for the low primer warning thing a couple years ago and I added a knob for the powder measure so I didn't need a wrench. Had to pay for those though.
Yeah, I just love a project gun. Lots more fun to make something work that didn't than to buy something that just works. I bought a Taurus revolver in 32S&W long that has .321 throats and a 314 bore. That was fun getting that to shoot.

[dudel]

There are people that can fix or make almost anything work. The Pro 1000 has a couple of serious design flaws that can be overcome if you have patience and the ability to see what a mechanical thing is supposed to do and figure out why is isn't. I have a Star Universal that is a nightmare to set up but now that it is set up ( and will stay that way) it will probably work many years without a hitch. I have a Dillon 550b that has worked almost flawlessly for the 20 or so years I have had it. It will spit out a live primer once or twice per thousand. Probably if I didn't wait so long to brush off the primer area, It wouldn't do that. The 550b is one solid work horse with very little that can go wrong. I replaced a 38spl shell plate that was cut wrong from the start and didn't index quite right. Free of course. I do think you are right ALMOST all progressive presses are a kit. I have done nothing to my 550b from the start other than clean and lube. Oops,couple other things, I had to replace the battery for the low primer warning thing a couple years ago and I added a knob for the powder measure so I didn't need a wrench. Had to pay for those though.
Yeah, I just love a project gun. Lots more fun to make something work that didn't than to buy something that just works. I bought a Taurus revolver in 32S&W long that has .321 throats and a 314 bore. That was fun getting that to shoot.

Wise post. I'll just add, I consider myself fairly mechanical. I can run a lathe and milling machine. Complete 80% uppers, do most of my home repairs, restore old cars, build computers, write software, setup networks, etc.

For me though, I don't want to fight with the tools. I don't want to have to fiddle with my torque wrench to make it read correctly. I don't want to have to mess around with my table saw to get it to cut straight, or drills, etc to make them work. I don't want to have to keep adjusting a press, keep the primer tray half full, add a vibrator to the feed trough, polish the feed with JPW, run double dies in 9mm to compensate for a loose shellplate, add stabilizer bars, etc. Or how you got a Lee working; but you don't deprime/prime/size on it. Or that you have it working; but only load one caliber on it (so the adjustments don't change).

I JUST WANT TO MAKE AMMO, then go shoot. For that purpose, I have a Dillon. I change the shell plate, set the pins, insert the right toolhead, load primers and powder and off I go. No drama.

If you enjoy the tinkering, them by all means get a Lee. If you get it working, all the more power to you. Congrats, you've reached an elite stage. However, I think if you consider all the costs of the add ons (and time) that I read about to make it work, you might be money ahead with a different brand.

Many of my best hours are spent fiddling / tweaking something; it's just that at this point in my life, a press isn't one of them.

[wawoodwa]

I JUST WANT TO MAKE AMMO, then go shoot. For that purpose, I have a Dillon. I change the shell plate, set the pins, insert the right toolhead, load primers and powder and off I go. No drama.

I am coming from only owning a Loadmaster. When I made the purchase, I researched Lee, Dillon, Hornady, & RCBS. I compared costs to capability. I then took a chance on Lee. I knew going into it, I was going to set dies, set primer adjustment, set powder, etc.

As I didn't make another purchase, I don't know what the other manufacturers have to offer. Based on your comment, I am under the impression that you take the Dillon out of its shipping box, screw it to the bench, add powder & primers, and make cartridges. If that is true, then the price differential makes some sense to me.

I estimate the first time setup for me on the Lee took about 2 hours. If the Dillon is just set and go (die set, bullet depth set, crimp set, etc.) from the factory, then essentially you are paying the factory some consulting time (around $100/hr) to have it ready to go when you get it from UPS. I can understand that.

[Outer Rondacker]

If I was more WELL OFF we would not have this thread. As it stands I will have $100 dollars into my LM with all new parts. One extra powder measure worth 25 bucks with the rifle drop die. In my mind it is worth something and will work for me on another press. If I was to keep with the I have 100 bucks into the press one would be hard pressed to find a RCBS or Dillon, Hornady for that. If they did they got very lucky and well as I have stated in the past I have got very lucky in getting a brand new SDB in 9mm for $25. This does not happen every day. We need to stop comparing a 1979 Volkswagen beetle up next to a 1979 Porsche 911 it is not on the same level.

I will be searching for a LEE PRO 1000 after I get this LM going just so I can see what all the fuss is.

[jmorris]

I estimate the first time setup for me on the Lee took about 2 hours. If the Dillon is just set and go (die set, bullet depth set, crimp set, etc.)... I can understand that.

Thats pretty much it. That is why they hold there value so well along with the warranty.

My oldest Dillon's are 30 and worth more today after years of use than they cost new.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/gn/IMG_20131002_232412_453%20-%20Copy_zpspbtemb26.jpg

[dudel]

Based on your comment, I am under the impression that you take the Dillon out of its shipping box, screw it to the bench, add powder & primers, and make cartridges. If that is true, then the price differential makes some sense to me.

The 550 was pretty much as easy to setup as you describe! I did have to set up the dies. But having used a single stage (and an LCT) previously, that was pretty fast. Now, I have my dies in tool holders. Since I seat and crimp in two stations, the only adjustment I need to make is seating depth (and possibly powder throw).

Even easier, is their Square Deal B (SDB). It comes with proprietary dies all set up. IIRC, the powder dump is adjusted as well. Might not be setup for the powder, drop or projectile you plan to use; but if you do have the right powder, primers, and projectiles, it's really a bolt, load and go operation. I had a SDB many years ago; but couldn't get past the proprietary dies and inability to do rifle. If you plan on doing one pistol caliber (and lots of it), a SDB is worth a look.

[rbuck351]

I really like tinkering with this kind of stuff or it would NOT be worth it. My Dillon worked out of the box other than die adjustments. And IIRC it was $325 when I got it. The 550b is a simple press for a progressive, never gets out of time, has no dinky little pieces to break or bend, the powder measure does not leak and even if it did it wouldn't affect anything. It's just a simple, strong, reliable press that loads a lot of ammo in a hurry. Cheap it is not, in price or build. But if all you want to do is load ammo, I recommend it highly. If you have a Pro 1000, you will probably be tinkering with it off and on. Not something I would want to do if I needed a bunch of ammo in a hurry. Murphy would probably show up making sure it didn't happen.

[dudel]

If I was more WELL OFF we would not have this thread. As it stands I will have $100 dollars into my LM with all new parts. One extra powder measure worth 25 bucks with the rifle drop die. In my mind it is worth something and will work for me on another press. If I was to keep with the I have 100 bucks into the press one would be hard pressed to find a RCBS or Dillon, Hornady for that. If they did they got very lucky and well as I have stated in the past I have got very lucky in getting a brand new SDB in 9mm for $25. This does not happen every day. We need to stop comparing a 1979 Volkswagen beetle up next to a 1979 Porsche 911 it is not on the same level.

I will be searching for a LEE PRO 1000 after I get this LM going just so I can see what all the fuss is.

Well, if we were ALL well off we'd be running multiple 1050s!

You have $100 into the LM, say you find a Pro 1000 for $50, you're now $100 away from a BL550b. Use your new powder measure on it, and you've got a NEW machine with a lifetime warranty, that will hold (or increase) in value.

Of course first thing I'd do on the BL550 is to update the primer system. But the beauty of the BL, is that YOU upgrade it when YOU want to.

[Outer Rondacker]

Well, if we were ALL well off we'd be running multiple 1050s!

You have $100 into the LM, say you find a Pro 1000 for $50, you're now $100 away from a BL550b. Use your new powder measure on it, and you've got a NEW machine with a lifetime warranty, that will hold (or increase) in value.

Of course first thing I'd do on the BL550 is to update the primer system. But the beauty of the BL, is that YOU upgrade it when YOU want to.

This is an endless debate. This thread is not about BLUE presses. Nor can I find a blue press (RL550B) for $100 plus $50 add $100 for a total of $250. To each his own.

My bench is in place and I will be moving my presses over to it tonight. I have one half hour time on the press so far polishing things up. My tracker saying parts are inbound tomorrow so time will tell if its junk or not. I have 10k 230g 45 projectiles ready to go with about 5k cases cleaned. This press has its work cut out for it. Lets play nice guys we are all in this for enjoyment.

[dikman]

It would be great to buy a 550B for a couple hundred $, but no chance of that here (I recently saw a used one for sale for $900!). So having a couple of used Pro 1000's, and buying whatever bits I needed to fix them up, made far more sense to me. Yes, I spent a bit of time on them, but it was also a challenge to get them working. They will work as progressives, although they require babying to do so, but that's no big deal as I'm not loading for commercial use. Now that I've split the functions over the two presses I'm very happy with them, plus all the money I've saved by not spending an exorbitant amount on a Dillon ($1500 new!) goes towards other things - guns, powder, primers, sewing machines etc. etc.

Outer Rondacker, I have no doubt that you will get it working ok (I don't see any reason why you shouldn't).

[rbuck351]

Anybody with some mechanical ability and a boat load of patience can make a Pro 1000 work properly. They are a delicate machine and must be operated carefully. Many think there time is more valuable than that and they are probably correct for their situation. Some of us consider things like this to be a mechanical puzzle. Something therapeutic to occupy our spare time that can produce a useable thing. I could easily afford a new 550b if I thought I needed another one. Three Pro 1000s permanently set up for one and only one caliber at about $120 each and a Star set up for another caliber,it was free, a 550 set up for lg pistol primers a couple of turrets and a rock chucker and I can just go to a set up press and start loading for the stuff I shoot most. I'm now on the look out for a LM. Not because I need it but because I have heard bad things about them and I want to see for myself. I suspect they are not as bad as the Pro 1000. Anyone got a real basket case for sale cheap?

[dikman]

Yep, I don't need another press, but like you if I come across a used LM at a good price I'll probably grab it just so that I can see what people are talking about and have a play with it.:bigsmyl2:

[castalott]

[QUOTE= Not because I need it but because I have heard bad things about them and I want to see for myself. [/QUOTE]

I have met a kindred spirit here as I like doing things this way also..... However I have used this approach with some women and can tell you the learning curve is high and expensive...

Dale

[rbuck351]

I am not brave enough to try that with women. Machines have a logical order about them. Women..... not so much.

[sghart3578]

I am a devoted user of the Lee Classic Turret. But as fate would have it I recently aquired two used presses that I couldn't pass up.

On my local Craigslist a guy was selling a Dillon 450 complete with all of the accessories including a shellpate for .223. Then, on Gunbroker, a guy was selling a Lee Pro 1000 with extras including two carriers, one of which was for .223.

I use my Classic Turret for all on my handgun calibers and 45/70. I use my RCBS turret press for rifle calibers with cast bullets. 223 is the only caliber I use jacketed rounds in.

As we all know 223 is labor intensive. After tumbling I size/deprime on a single stage. I also trim on the single stage, then ream the crimped pockets. After hand priming I am left with cases that are ready to load. I'm sure a lot of guys also do it this way with 223.

Up until recently I loaded my 223 on s single stage or RCBS turret. I have a Savage bolt action and I only did a few rounds at a time. But now I have an AR 15 and my son and I shoot a lot more ammo. So I am looking to up production. At this point I still prep the brass the same way. But I bought the two presses to see if I could speed things up.

So far I have only tested the Dillon 450. I put my Lee dies and Lee Pro Auto Disk on it. After getting a rhythm going it was pretty fast. Different from what I am used to but easy to learn. Crappy photos.

162575162576

I plan on setting up the Pro 1000 today and running it through the same test. I chose the Dillon first only because the indexing rod that came with the Pro 1000 was in bad shape so I ordered a new one from Titan. It arrived yesterday. I did cycle the Pro 1000 a lot and stripped it down and cleaned it. For loading 223, especially starting with cases that are already prepped, I think it will do well.



Steve in N CA

[Outer Rondacker]

Steve keep us updated on how the pro 1000 turns out.

I will not be setting up the LM today as USPS has dropped the ball again and not put my package in the car. I am told it will be here tomorrow.

[sghart3578]

I had a chance to try the Lee Pro 1000 today. After installing a new index rod and ratchet I bolted it to my table and set up the Lee dies for 223. I used the same set up that I tried on the Dillon 450 recently.

162667162668

I did do something a little different though. Since this press is a three station and not four I mounted the powder drop in hole #1. The bullet seating die went into #2 and the FCD in #3. Since I was working with pre-primed brass I removed the primer slide from the rear of the press. This made it easier to insert a bullet in the case.

I loaded 80 rounds with no problems. I didn't time it but it was a decent pace. I couldn't go too fast. If I did powder would get slung out of the case on it's way to station #2. I had this problem with the Dillon also, as well as my old Loadmaster. Keeping a nice, moderate pace was key and I turned out a pile of ammo fast enough.

Since I was working with processed brass I didn't test the Achilles heel of all presses, the priming system. Accounts of problems with the Lee system are common, and I had my share with the Loadmaster. But a quick scan of the Dillon forums showed that it happens with blue presses also.

STOP RIGHT THERE!!! I don't want any flames from the blue crew, it was a simple observation and not a condemnation, thank you.

For a press that I will dedicate to 223 only I will rate them about even. That is if you deprime and prime off press of course. Each press has advantages. For example, since the Dillon is manually advanced it is easy to stop and check each stage. Just remove the brass button and check the case. The Lee is auto-advance and it seems like it is easier to develop a rhythm.

This is the first Dillon that I have owned or even operated. I can see why the Dillon guys love their presses. It is well made and well thought out. Since it is a four station I think that I will move my 357 dies over to it. If that works I may even convert to a 550 and get more toolheads. I will keep the three station Lee for 223 only duty.


Steve in N CA

[Lefty Red]

Great Post Steve! If it works, it shouldn't matter what brand it is.

Jerry

[Outer Rondacker]

Could not be said better Jerry. Great post Steve and thank you for giving us the following up.

After reading your post it struck me, I think you might have found the simplest most dependable rifle progressive. This goes for me since I size/deprime then wash and trim. This is followed by a hand prime. I do this for my rifle ammo. I know it takes longer then just dropping it on my LNL and cranking out ammo but if you are like me I want to hit what I aim for.

Steve has made a very good point and I will respect his wishes as they are the same as mine. Dont do it Blue worshipers. We love blue too but this is about red. With that said I as everyone knows do still own one Dillon. It is the SDB and if a smooth SLOW rhythm is not kept I fling powder out of the case when the press hits station three. Not a big deal and as long as I take my time I do not loose powder from the case.

Steve if you are reading this I do have one more question. How consistent was the OAL of the final bullet. My parts should be in today so I can get the LM fired up.

[jmorris]

If it works, it shouldn't matter what brand it is.


Really doesn't even have to work, as long as your happy.

There are more than a few progressive users that have given up on loading progressively in a single pass and instead make two passes and hand prime in between. Again, they are happy with this process and as long as they are, there is nothing "wrong" in doing it that way.

[sghart3578]

"Steve if you are reading this I do have one more question. How consistent was the OAL of the final bullet. My parts should be in today so I can get the LM fired up."

That's a good question. I generally just seat to the cannelure for my plinking ammo, then do a visual check as the ammo drops out.

Later today I will measure them and give you the data.


Steve in N CA

[sghart3578]

Okay guys,

I reached in and pulled out 20 rounds at random. These were all loaded recently on the Pro 1000. All were loaded with Hornady 55 gr FMJ boittails.

The longest round measured 2.238" and the shortest was 2.235". The avaerage length was 2.236".

Hope this helps. I did not measure the ammo loaded on the Dillon 450. My son came by on the way to the range and I gave them to him. If I load another batch on the Dillon I will check them.

It's funny, my son comes by to see me for ammo and his mom for sandwiches. Life is good.



Steve in N CA.

[Outer Rondacker]

Thank you Steve. Sounds like it kept a good OAL.

My parts are hear. I am going to take a few mins later tonight and set everything up. I am going to time it. I will say I am not going to rush. Simple steps. I have around a half hour messing around with it to understand how it worked and polishing everything before the parts got here. I polished the top die plate, shell plate, under the shell plate where it rides, cycling arm, powder charge die base and slide.

I did open the box the parts came in. I like the new primer set up. The case feeder well I am still in shock about how cheap it feels. I hope it works better then it feels because at this point I feel that I overpaid for the items. Time will tell. If I get off here it will tell sooner. I will be back with an update. Umm Sandwiches.

[jmorris]

I hope it works better then it feels because at this point I feel that I overpaid for the items.

That is ok, just think about how much it would cost for you to build it yourself, if you had the equipment and time to do so.

[wawoodwa]

Yes, the case feeder is so simple (4 plastic tubes, red top, and the slider mechanism) but it works! When you put the cases in, make sure to place them on the side and shake them to the center. Sometimes it will flip, but you can see them and flip them before they go into the plate. Also, you tune the slider a little bit.

[Lefty Red]

Really doesn't even have to work, as long as your happy.

There are more than a few progressive users that have given up on loading progressively in a single pass and instead make two passes and hand prime in between. Again, they are happy with this process and as long as they are, there is nothing "wrong" in doing it that way.

Yep, and I'm one of them. I like to check my brass and do the prep before running through a progressive.

[flyingmonkey35]

Just ordered a lee bench prime.

From titan reloading.

[Outer Rondacker]

Just ordered a lee bench prime.

From titan reloading.
Great place to deal with. I was happy with everything they did for me.

OK press is set up. It was striped. I started by adding the primer parts I got from Titan followed by the shell plate and ejector with nut. Next I lubed and added the indexing rod. Lube and set up the case feeder. I have to admit it took most of my time since I had no directions. The ones that come with the kit are for a Pro 1000. A few mins watching a youtube video and it was done. I then loaded the tubes and gave 80ish cases a go. All looked good so on to setting up the primer. Got this tip from another member here to set it off a spent primer. I then loaded a(1) primer in the hole and added a case to give it a try. Worked well. Ok on to the dies, that we all know how to do. The powder measure took me an extra minute as I had to update it and give it a polish to ensure no powder leakage. A few tests and wow that was simple. Please remember I had to learn how this Lee even worked. Double checking things is key and helps to under stand this different press. Its kinda neat really.

So time invested so far. Half hour polishing and another hour setup along with watching some youtube vids and cycling 80 some cases around powder test and primer test. It is now one step from ready to run. I have to screw it to my new bench and just have not decided where every press is going yet. So I will be making a run of 1000 rounds soon. I will keep track of my issues that I am faced with if any. If all goes well I am going to be pushing the run up to 5000 and will then again give a final overview.

I am sorry this is taking me so long but I have many things going on in my reloading room at the moment. Most of it is the fact that I am building a new reloading room. Pics to come once the wife gets back with our camera. She loves to take pictures of them grand kids.

[flyingmonkey35]

Great place to deal with. I was happy with everything they did for me.

OK press is set up. It was striped. I started by adding the primer parts I got from Titan followed by the shell plate and ejector with nut. Next I lubed and added the indexing rod. Lube and set up the case feeder. I have to admit it took most of my time since I had no directions. The ones that come with the kit are for a Pro 1000. A few mins watching a youtube video and it was done. I then loaded the tubes and gave 80ish cases a go. All looked good so on to setting up the primer. Got this tip from another member her to set it off a spent primer. I then loaded a(1) primer in the hole and added a case to give it a try. Worked well. Ok on to the dies, that we all know how to do. The powder measure took me an extra minute as I had to update it and give it a polish to ensure no powder leakage. A few tests and wow that was simple. Please remember I had to learn how this Lee even worked. Lots of looking this over in this time. Double checking things. Its kinda neat really.

So time invested so far. Half hour polishing and another hour setup along with watching some youtube vids and cycling 80 some cases around powder test and primer test. It is now one step from ready to run. I have to screw it to my new bench and just have not decided where every press is going yet. So I will be making a run of 1000 rounds soon. I will keep track of my issues that I am faced with if any. If all goes well I am going to be pushing the run up to 5000 and will then again give a final overview.

I am sorry this is taking me so long but I have many things going on in my reloading room at the moment. Most if is the fact that I am building a new room. Pics to come once the wife gets back with our camera. She loves to take pictures of them grand kids.
Sound like lots and lots of fun.

Slow and steady win the Lee race.

[sghart3578]

If you like I will share one of my "workarounds" that I developed in my Loadmaster days.

I loaded a lot of 45 ACP and 9MM in those days. My youngest son was still living at home and we got to shoot together more often. I would set up my Loadmaster with primers and cases and go to town. It never failed that I would get 1 or 2 out of 100 with hinky primers. This was after upgrading to the new primer chute, cleaning, deburring, etc. Instead of fighting I adapted.

As you sit in front of the press ready to load you will find that your left hand naturally rests on your work table right next to station #3. This is the station that holds the powder throw. That means that as the handle is pushed up the plate rotates the primed case from station #2 counter clockwise to station #3, ready to go up to the powder throw on the next downstroke.

What I did was loosen the chrome hook on the rim at station #3. This hook holds the case against the plate to align it with the die above it. Since my left hand was resting naturally there anyway it became a habit for me to pull the "primed" case out of the plate at station #3 to make sure that it was primed correctly. If it was I just put it back at kept going. If not I dropped it back into the case feeder for another trip through. This added just a couple of seconds to the process and was un-noticeable.

This may help you guys, I hope so.

Don't be concerned about the case feeder. If you set it up according to the directions it works. I never had a problem with mine.

Best of luck,


Steve in N CA

[toallmy]

Good show Sr.:popcorn: I have learned quite a bit about progressive reloading on and because of this thread . I at one point gave up on progressive reloading due to my lee load fast adventure , I am watching and counting my piggy bank as I read about your progress .

[Outer Rondacker]

While making the wife breakfast before she runs off to see the kids I find this on youtube. I think it is a simple fix I might use if I run into a primer skipping issue.
https://youtu.be/_vYymZZe4lo

[Bigslug]

Anybody with some mechanical ability and a boat load of patience can make a Pro 1000 work properly. They are a delicate machine and must be operated carefully. Many think there time is more valuable than that and they are probably correct for their situation. Some of us consider things like this to be a mechanical puzzle. Something therapeutic to occupy our spare time that can produce a useable thing. I could easily afford a new 550b if I thought I needed another one. Three Pro 1000s permanently set up for one and only one caliber at about $120 each and a Star set up for another caliber,it was free, a 550 set up for lg pistol primers a couple of turrets and a rock chucker and I can just go to a set up press and start loading for the stuff I shoot most. I'm now on the look out for a LM. Not because I need it but because I have heard bad things about them and I want to see for myself. I suspect they are not as bad as the Pro 1000. Anyone got a real basket case for sale cheap?

I have to ask: How much of your seemingly bottomless well of patience for the Pro 1000 resulted from being trapped inside for months on end during an Alaskan winter? Parallels to gnawing your own leg off to escape a trap seem appropriate. . .

[rbuck351]

If you wait for good weather in AK you will never get outside. Winter is for hunting from a snowmachine or cross country skis for small game..And then there is ice fishing. And the local shooting range has heated shooting sheds with lights for the ranges.

[JohnH]

Good show Sr.:popcorn: I have learned quite a bit about progressive reloading on and because of this thread . I at one point gave up on progressive reloading due to my lee load fast adventure , I am watching and counting my piggy bank as I read about your progress . The real quality of progressive presses is not saving time but saving motion. Not being critical of you but the phrase you use "lee load fast" speaks volumes about how many think of progressive presses and why they get in trouble with them. My first progressive press was a MEC 650 Jr. fpr 20 guage shotshell. It was manually indexing but the powder/shot charge bar was mechanically operated. Gave me fits at first learning the sequence I needed to be "in time" with the machine. I'm finding the same thing on the Loadmaster I'm setting up. As I bought just a basic press with no priming or powder system, priming in batches off press and using a manual powder measure (RCBS Little Dandy) the curve on my timing is pretty steep right now. Am going to replace the manual powder measure with a case aactivated automatic type, but still there is some amount of "what you do and when you do it" with progressives. Good luck in your future venture.

[wawoodwa]

...but still there is some amount of "what you do and when you do it" with progressives.

Yes. Very true. As it is a tool, you can't pull the handle like it is a slot machine in Vegas hoping to hit the jackpot. Slamming it from stop to stop doesn't work. It is a flow...

[r1kk1]

I at one point gave up on progressive reloading due to my lee load fast adventure ,

I loathed the Lee Load Fast press. It went back within 30 days. Wouldn't index correctly to save its hide. I'm glad Lee dropped that press.

Take care

r1kk1

[Outer Rondacker]

I had a chance last night to cycle the powder measure 100 times. I dropped 10 charges to get a average each time. I am just dumb founded. Number 37 on the lee auto load drops 4.4 grains of tite group.
1- 43.9
2- 44.1
3- 44.2
4- 43.9
5- 44.0
6- 44.0
7- 43.9
8- 43.9
9- 44.0
10- 43.9

= 439.8 that is a difference on average of 0.002g For a junk cheap old measure I am happy with that. I think a lot had to do with me squaring the face of the disk and slider on the measure. Took two mins of my life to do this. It took a lot longer to do this test. I am going to dig out the tests of the Dillon measure I did on the SDB. I will say it was not this good but then again I was not using the same powder. This does mater when doing a test. YMMY. Rain on the map for today so I might get going on that 1k run. Lets hope so.

[toallmy]

The load fast was far from fast , the best I could do was one at a time all the way around . In my pursuit of a 366 I ran into a Mic 9000 after a little tinkering and adjustment it actually works . That is what I am looking for in a handgun loader . I am watching Mr Outer Rondacker with a loadmaster , because I could see setting up loaders for different calibers at the price . If not well then it's a 550 and conversion kits . I don't get in a hurry when I load I enjoy it . Same with casting .

[toallmy]

The suspense is killing me , it's like a soap opera for a man . Good luck in your adventure .

[Outer Rondacker]

Toallmy what has been killing me is my reloading room has been dropped in size with a new smaller bench. I have been having issues making it all fit. You forced me to make it happen. With that solid platform I can start the run. Not long now. Stay tuned for a the next episode.

[r1kk1]

I had a chance last night to cycle the powder measure 100 times. I dropped 10 charges to get a average each time. I am just dumb founded. Number 37 on the lee auto load drops 4.4 grains of tite group.
1- 43.9
2- 44.1
3- 44.2
4- 43.9
5- 44.0
6- 44.0
7- 43.9
8- 43.9
9- 44.0
10- 43.9

= 439.8 that is a difference on average of 0.02g For a junk cheap old measure I am happy with that. I think a lot had to do with me squaring the face of the disk and slider on the measure. Took two mins of my life to do this. It took a lot longer to do this test. I am going to dig out the tests of the Dillon measure I did on the SDB. I will say it was not this good but then again I was not using the same powder. This does mater when doing a test. YMMY. Rain on the map for today so I might get going on that 1k run. Lets hope so.

If you set your measure for 4.4 why does it drop around 44? I noticed your total was 439.8 divide that by 10 is 43.98.

please clarify.

R1kk1

[wawoodwa]

If you set your measure for 4.4 why does it drop around 44? I noticed your total was 439.8 divide that by 10 is 43.98.

please clarify.

R1kk1

He did 10 tests of 10 drops. The total weight of the 10 drops equals around 44. That divided by 10 is 4.4. He did the test 10 times.

Then he took the 100 test total and divided by 100 for the overall 4.39.

[r1kk1]

He did 10 tests of 10 drops. The total weight of the 10 drops equals around 44. That divided by 10 is 4.4. He did the test 10 times.

Then he took the 100 test total and divided by 100 for the overall 4.39.

Thank you. More patience than me.

When I set up, I measure the 1st 10 throws then if it's within a tenth, I measure every 10th cartridge. My wife averages a tenth with Unique, ball is just dead on, stick and other flake powders are a tenth and on a bad day two tenths.

I have some 800x and 3031 to use up today.

take care

r1kk1

[wawoodwa]

Thank you. More patience than me.

When I set up, I measure the 1st 10 throws then if it's within a tenth, I measure every 10th cartridge.

Me too! I haven't done Outer's test before. I might give it a run with some Power Pistol. I use a beam scale now. So that would take me a lot of time. [emoji3]

I do like you do. Measure a few and random sample while loading.

[toallmy]

Please don't let me rush you sir , If you are enjoying yourself doing it as much as I am watching your progress it is already a winner . I was posting at the same time as you this morning , but I caught the powder test .

[Outer Rondacker]

If you set your measure for 4.4 why does it drop around 44? I noticed your total was 439.8 divide that by 10 is 43.98.

please clarify.

R1kk1
OK I did not feel like testing 100 single powder drops. So I put my catch I was using under the powder measure and cycle it 10 times. Then I weight the total of the ten charges as one. I did this ten different times. Put all the numbers together and ran an average. Then took that average from correct total and divided it by 100. And you got me. It should of been 0.002g of per round. I had a typo sorry. I will go fix it. Standard deviation.

[jmorris]

The real quality of progressive presses is not saving time but saving motion.

With one comes the other, they are not mutually exclusive. It can be hindered a lot by folks that get frustrated with making a progressive work as intended though and give up on a priming system working and make two passes of each case through the press and hand prime inbetween.

Why there are a lot of folks that dislike the Lee presses but have moved on to presses that are closer to "just works" in terms of setup.

[dikman]

That is very true, JM. While I didn't get frustrated by the occasional primer jams (because I understood why it happened) I decided by splitting the functions across two presses I would probably come out ahead overall. When the press is functioning properly it's great, but I found that when a primer jam occurred I wasted a lot of time getting everything back in sequence. This way I'm still using a press to feed the cases and prime, but if the occasional primer mishap occurs it's now a simple, and quick, procedure to correct it, and when I load and seat boolits there is no reason for anything to go wrong now (other than operator error!!).

[jmorris]

I decided by splitting the functions across two presses I would probably come out ahead overall. When the press is functioning properly it's great, but I found that when a primer jam occurred I wasted a lot of time getting everything back in sequence.

I understand and agree, that's one reason why the Lee progressives are not my first recommendation for progressives.

[Outer Rondacker]

Warning LONG POST. Well I am around 100 rounds loaded with the LM. A few things I learned fast from my setup. I have taken some pics for you. 163013 This is the spot on my bench I picked for 45acp reloading off the Lee LM. I have put up some white back round to help keep the other things from making a messy pic. As you can see I am using WLP. 163014 I am not a fan of the new folding tray. It might work well for keeping the primers from falling out as you put it in the slot having the on off button but the fold makes it hard to move the primers from one side to the other without flipping the wrong way again. I have not had one issue with primer feed. I know I should be knocking on wood here based off others mileage. The case feeder is very simple and works like a champ. I will admit I forget to turn it in time and get an empty slot going around before I notice it. I think I will learn when to spin it with more time. I will be cutting the bolt on the case feeder tube as it sticks down far and makes it hard to remove my loaded bullet bin. 163015 Now for a moment of truth. I spent way to much time making sure this was going to run fine based off the horror stories of others. If you recall I got this press in a box. I had to order parts but that was ok since I got the updated ones. At first look of the case feeder I thought to myself what a piece of JUNK. After using it I see no need to make it more simpler then it is. It works great and fast. I could not be happier with the powder measure with no leaks and a very decent consistent drop. I will admit one more thing. I am using 45gap dies. That is no big deal but I still can not find my universal depriming die. So I had this idea I would drop a 243 or 308 die in the second station to keep the case centered over the priming pin. Not sure what I was thinking as those dies require lube. Two pulls in I could feel the resistance. I then grabbed a 45lc bullet seating die and screwed that into place. This solved the die issue and case wiggle if it ever had any. Not pushing the lever forward to prime is going to take some learning. You do get a feel for how you have to push the indexing bar in. A nice smooth stroke and all goes well. I will keep loading and give a report at 1k rounds. As of right now I feel it was well worth my 100 dollar investment. As for the full price well that is up to you. I will say this. Lee knows they want your sizing die in station two with the depriming pin removed. They claim to want you to use a universal depriming die in station one. I feel they should include this die in the full kit form when you buy it that way. Hint Hint Titan if your listening. I would also remind anyone reading this I took the few extra mins and polished things to make it all run smooth. Station 5 is a 45-70 crimp die. I do not own a 45acp crimp die. Its to keep the pressure on the shell plate even. Feel free to ask any questions. I might or might not have the answer.

I want to thank everyone who has read and posted in this thread. What started as a which do you use or would you use turned into me making one run. Like others have said if you have the skills perhaps a Lee LM is for you. I have many a friend who I would tell to stay away from this press. If you want to follow the thread more I will be updating any issues or fixes as they come about with the rising numbers of bullets. They are calling for rain Thursday maybe I will attempt to hit 1k.

[toallmy]

O thank goodness I was afraid you were going to say it don't work . I was pleased to see the powder charge was giving you good , precise charges . Now the possibility it may prime as well . I am clapping my hands for the show , when you hit the 1000 mark a standing ovation is in order . Hehehe have a good day .

[wawoodwa]

I will say this. Lee knows they want your sizing die in station two with the depriming pin removed. They claim to want you to use a universal depriming die in station one. I feel they should include this die in the full kit form when you buy it that way.

This is true. The universal decapper should come with the LoadMaster from the factory. Many issues would be solved that way.

[Outer Rondacker]

Thanks to some good luck on my part and the generosity of another member I can say I will be putting a 45 acp crimp die in station five.

So I am just over 200 rounds now and have grabbed out 10 random rounds. I set for 1.260 to shoot in my SR1911.
1.260
1.2595
1.259
1.260
1.259
1.2595
1.259
1.260
1.2585
1.259
I am happy with that. I wish Lee made a 200 or 250 primer tray so you could always keep 50 in it. I will say on the first run I ran it almost dry without a issue. I am getting better at turning the case feeder tubes also. I think I have done it a whopping 8-9 times now. I think its time to double check the powder measure before I start the next run. Oh and I will be putting a larger loaded bullet tray in this time. The small one does not hold much.

[JohnH]

With one comes the other, they are not mutually exclusive. It can be hindered a lot by folks that get frustrated with making a progressive work as intended though and give up on a priming system working and make two passes of each case through the press and hand prime inbetween.

Why there are a lot of folks that dislike the Lee presses but have moved on to presses that are closer to "just works" in terms of setup. I prime with a hand tool prior to running the cases through the press. I wet tumble, dry, prime, then run the cases through the press. I've run my neighbors Dillon 650 and it has issues around the priming system too. As it goes, my hand priming tool has issues, it's just a lot easier to deal with the issues of a tool I hold in my hand than the issues of a tool mounted on a table I have to half disassemble to get problem resolution all the while keeping track of where the cases on the carriage are in the loading stream.

[jmorris]

I prime with a hand tool prior to running the cases through the press.

Not unless all you load is new brass or buy from someone who has already processed it. Other than that you have to make two passes, one to get the primer out, put another in by hand, then the second pass to finish loading them.

[R1200rme]

I started with the universal decaping die in station 1 and sizing in station 2 but didn't like the feel so I took it out and now size and decap in station 1. I adjusted the retainer clips and have had no primer issues that I didn't cause by short stroking or being inattentive of my primer level in the chute. Ive had great luck so far.

[Outer Rondacker]

The 45lc die in station two does not fit tight to the 45acp case. It is barely snug. You really do not feel it but let me tell you I could feel that 243 die soon as I hit it.
Not that it maters but I did switch to 40 on the auto disk to get a bit more powder. 4.6 TG holds a better group. I do not know what people are crying about it took under a min to switch the charge from 37 to 40 and I did not spill a flake of powder. I put powder graphite on all the sliding parts of the powder measure that I have left over from the kids boy scout pine wood derby cars. I might have left that out. Sorry.

[JohnH]

Not unless all you load is new brass or buy from someone who has already processed it. Other than that you have to make two passes, one to get the primer out, put another in by hand, then the second pass to finish loading them. Yes, I run the cases across a single stage press to deprime. I use a 45-70 sizer as a "universal" decapping die. But I don't do this to avoid priming on my LM I do this to so my wet tumbler will clean out the primer pockets and reduce the time necessary for the cases to dry. I use a dehumidifier to dry the cases and primer out is a 15 minute process, primer in takes nearly an hour to dry. I was decapping for this reason before I got the LM.

[JohnH]

Not unless all you load is new brass or buy from someone who has already processed it. Other than that you have to make two passes, one to get the primer out, put another in by hand, then the second pass to finish loading them. Yes, I run the cases across a single stage press to deprime. I use a 45-70 sizer as a "universal" decapping die. But I don't do this to avoid priming on my LM I do this to so my wet tumbler will clean out the primer pockets and reduce the time necessary for the cases to dry. I use a dehumidifier to dry the cases and primer out is a 15 minute process, primer in takes nearly an hour to dry. I was decapping for this reason before I got the LM and will do so for all the cases I use even those I continue to load on the single stage. Perhaps I wasn't clear about this in an earlier post.

[Jal5]

Couple of things I found using the LM. KEEP the press clean this means I decap on a single stage and clean by SS wash. I setup a long dowel rod like the shake brake seen on magic mike's webpage and it really removes all motion keeping the priming process from messing up. I also added an LED light strip to see into the cases for the powder drop- what a difference that makes!163063
Doing 9mm, 45 acp now and will do 223 for rifle next. A nice even stroke without trying to race adds up finished rounds quickly.

[r1kk1]

I've run my neighbors Dillon 650 and it has issues around the priming system too.

What priming issues? The 650 is the gold standard for priming. I've seen posts where guys wished their 1050 had the same priming system. I've never had a priming issue on the RCBS pro 2000 using strips or tubes and not one issue on blue either.

Take care

r1kk1

[jmorris]

I use a dehumidifier to dry the cases...primer in takes nearly an hour to dry.

Not sure where you live but here in Texas I set them in the sun. In 2.5 beers they are not only dry but too hot to hold in a bare hand.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/IMG_20130727_144639_090_zpsd9095290.jpg


What priming issues? The 650 is the gold standard for priming.

About the only thing you ever hear about the 650 priming system is that it always feeds primers. I agree, it is the best one out there.

[Outer Rondacker]

Jmorris you and I could be great buds if I lived in Texas. I too often measure time by beer. I have the same rinse bin you have as well.

I have to say I have never seen a problem with a primer on a 650 either.

[flyingmonkey35]

Well a lot of us deprime then clean to get the primer pocket clean.

I do it on my load master just for the case feeder. You can crank em out fast. If are only depriming.

As I have stated all ready. You can prime on it. If you set it up correctly. Even on a Dillon a with a short stroke you'll have issues.

That's what I have found to be the number 1 issue. Is getting hasty and wanting to faster.

Slow and steady win the Lee race

[jmorris]

Well a lot of us deprime then clean to get the primer pocket clean.

I do it on my load master just for the case feeder. You can crank em out fast. If are only depriming.

As I have stated all ready. You can prime on it. If you set it up correctly. Even on a Dillon a with a short stroke you'll have issues.

That's what I have found to be the number 1 issue. Is getting hasty and wanting to faster.

I'll be honest and say that I do it too sometimes but I cheat a little bit just so "I" don't have to do it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1ieGYpdr9I


An operator that doesn't operate the machine properly can mess up anything, just look at auto insurance rates for teenage boys. Same thing with small primer pocket cases on a machine setup for large, if you let one get by that's your fault, not the machines fault.

[GONRA]

GONRA's and my younger son's Dillon's verk great!
BUT - for necked rifle cartridges, we do a complete "case prep" on a robust single stage press.
Check each prepped case for proper "free chambering" in our semiautos...

[Outer Rondacker]

I plan on getting out today to shoot the new charge and make sure it works for me. 4.6 of TG. If it does Monday is a rain day and I will be pumping out rounds. I had hope to be a few thousand in by now but changing powder charges and helping others has kept me from getting it done.

This is a PLUG for Dillon. I called them yesterday and this is how the phone call went.

Hi sir how are you today? (me)Good.
How may I help you? (me)My SDB handle has some slop in it. I would like to buy the updated bushing parts and fix this.
OK let me get your zip code followed by address. (me)Bla bla
OK I will be getting the new parts in the mail to you tomorrow. I also include a new bearing kit and some other parts you might need. (me)Do you need anything from me like my CC info?
NO SIR, do you have any other questions? (me) No. Then you have a good day and give us a call if there is anything you need. (me)Thank You.

Hands down the best customer service for a press company you can find. Well worth the extra money spent on a press if you can swing it as they will always help you. Most of the time for FREE. Most of the time after talking to a company like this I feel frustrated not this time I felt wow just wow. I had to share. Titan made me feel the same way for Lee products.

[wawoodwa]

That is amazing Outer! I just got my first piece of blue from a swap/sell forum on TGO, the super swage. Looking to try it out!

[toallmy]

Dag gon it , now I have to go back to considering a new 550 , and I had decided on a loadmaster I thought . Just kidding , when I hear about the people calling RCBS ,and Dillon it warms my heart thinking about companies that really stand behind their products .

[Outer Rondacker]

Well I put 100 or so down range. I am pleased with the 4.6g of tite group but I do have heavy soot on the one side of the case. I can live with that. Its the nature of the beast. I might tighten up the crimp just a tad to see if it helps. I have added a factory taper crimp die to station five. Will check back soon.

[Gillie Dog]

when I hear about the people calling RCBS ,and Dillon it warms my heart thinking about companies that really stand behind their products .

I found Lee to do the same every time I have contacted them during the time untold thousands of rounds have been reloaded. They sent me several new turrets when a batch of bad ones was shipped, they replaced decapping pins (I do not care for their new machined ones) and replaced a die which was marking the shoulders of the cases, all this at no charge and without question when I placed the request through their web site and attached a picture.

RCBS did the same for me, I emailed them one time asking about parts not listed on their web site for the bench prime and they mailed me out some at no charge and I do not even own one of their bench primes.

Most manufacturers (not all) in the reloading community treat their customers well and the very limited quantity of manufacturers I have dealt with have been very good. Granted I have had very few bad or worn out parts to deal with.

YMMV

GD

[Outer Rondacker]

Ran a batch of 500 yesterday making my total 700 rounds and I am happy with the press but have another issue. I had five loaded bullets that the bullet was not crimped in tight. I took them to the side and put them on the single stage and added a TC. I could not get it tight enough. No mater what I did. SO I switched to a new projectile. That didnt help. I am dumbfounded. Any tips. I have never had this happen. It was five pieces of brass. Three had TZZ 86 head stamps and the other two had R&P. Could my brass be to hard and springing back? I do not care about loosing 5 cases but this is an issue I need to know about running a progressive.

I might have solved it. The five cases where part of the set up a week ago. They never got sized. So Ya I was putting a TC on them but that was not enough to hold the projectile in place. I will be keeping an eye out for this again.

I spoke to soon. Only two the RP worked.

So my dated brass will not hold the bullet. I found four more on another run of 100 I just did. I know the two from the RP had slipped in as I hand fed them to the powder charge. Cases that did not get sized due to using them to test the primer set up.

I have no clue why these will not hold the bullet. TZZ Match and different numbers. 86/ 84/ 85.

[Outer Rondacker]

Well we are going to test out that CS for Lee since the sizing die is only making the brass .4685-469. Double looking at my sizer die it has stamped on it 45 ACP A1. It should read .467-465 I think.

[Gillie Dog]

Well we are going to test out that CS for Lee since the sizing die is only making the brass .4685-469. Double looking at my sizer die it has stamped on it 45 ACP A1. It should read .467-465 I think.

What problem did you run into? .468-.469 seems right to me as SAMMI has .467/.473 as correct OD I think and .452 jacketed/.453 Lead for bullet diameter. I need to measure brass thickness to do the math.

Same markings on my 45ACP die and is their standard marking.

GD

[Outer Rondacker]

My reading is saying it should be .467 empty and loaded .471-.473. I am loading .452 Jwords. Brass wall is .0075-.008 on TZZ. On Winchester its .0105-.0115.

So .469-.016 comes out to .453. I mic the bullet and they are coming in at .452. This is why it will not work I guess. I find it hard to swallow that .001-.0015 will make that bullet loose. Its not falling out but its not staying put either. Add it up with the looser numbers and you get .0035.

Now lets size a win brass. .469. So my research online could be off a bit. The die could be correct. A call to lee will answer that. It could just be the brass wall thickness. That is what I am going with.

[toallmy]

Gillis Dog I have had good luck, and pleasant relationship with lee as well . Last time I had a problem with lee stuff I was told to just send a picture instead of the part , it made it so much faster for replacement .

[Outer Rondacker]

1500 rounds down well give or take a few. 1 flipped primer that might have been me. 3 none primed cases. This was my fault I ran the tray empty once and the other two it was really low. Like five or something. Its dillons fault really. That primer alarm they have you kinda get used to it. I did have the top shell plate holder turret I guess they call it come loose. Some blue lock tight fixed that. Three times the case feeder got jammed up because the nuts came loose. Once again some blue lock tight fixed this also. I want to say that around 1k rounds I could feel it start to get um not so smooth. I took a minute to lube it up and it was running smooth again.

Then the case issue held me up. I have pulled all TZZ brass from my stash and will be swaging it into 45-70 projectiles.

So fixes are blue lock tight. More blue lock tight. Lube. Know your brass. LOL One thing I did not fix that I wish they would fix is to make the tubes hold 25 rounds each. This way you know every tube fill needs a primer fill. I might make new tubes after I get a small amount of stash built up. But for now its running smooth so dont mess with it.

[toallmy]

;) I put a loadmaster in my midway usa cart , I haven't purchased it yet , but it is in the cart . Glad to see the 1000 mark crossed .

[Outer Rondacker]

Thank you Toallmy. Another thing to add. If you short stroke and then finish the stoke you might double feed a cast. I did this twice. What happens is the second cast will hit the top of the press as it is sticking out. I keep a bent set of tweezers on hand and grab it out before finishing the stoke. Keep a steady pace. It is very easy to get flying with this press since it has the case feeder.

[Jal5]

I have only had a handful of things that went wrong now, all of them operator's fault: overcharged case by short stroking the press about 3 times, about 5 with no primer, another 3 with crushed primer. all of these happened as i was learning the operation of the press. Keeping it smooth, steady strokes, eliminate wobbles in the press as attached to the bench, and keeping the shell plate and surrounding areas clean are keys for me.