Cleaning Solvents - Back to Hoppes #9

[Sam Casey]

Tried some Ballistol. Cleaned 2 38's after a weekend of shooting. Did not care for smell and cleaning action was less than spectacular. Have used Hoppes for years and prefer it. Tried the B product because it was touted as cleaner and lubricant/preservative. Concluded I'd rather add a little oil as final step with Hoppes than deal with bad smell of Ballistol.

[tazman]

Ballistol doesn't seem to exist around here. I have been using Hoppes for 40 years. It does a good job for me.

[smoked turkey]

I tend to agree that Hoppes 9 does a good job. Folks that have been using it for years and years say they have changed the formula and it doesn't do as good a job as that of yesteryear. It may not but Hoppes still does pretty good for me. I will say that I also like and use Ballistol especially for black powder swabbing and cleaning. I am different in that I do like the smell of Ballistol almost as much as the old original Hoppes #9. For me two smells I really like are the smell of leather and the old Hoppes #9 formula.

[OilyPablo]

Ballistol does nothing well. Waste of money. I clean with Hoppe's with a shot Kroil mixed in. I lube with the correct lubricant for the gun and the weather. I rust preserve mostly with CorrosionX. Eezox is a good preservative too, but it's nasty toxic.

[jhaston]

I go through a couple bottles of Hoppes #9 a year, I haven't tried very many others, I guess if it ain't broke don't fix it.

[Outpost75]

I mix my own Ed's Red. Works for me

[country gent]

Ballistol water mix is good for black powder and if corrosive ammo has been used as it netralizes the salts. I use it mixed with good relults. I also have hoppes #9 and shooters choice benchrest on hand. I mix shooters choice kroil oil 50 50 The kroil oil acts as a penetrant carrier and helps get the shooters choice under the jacket or lead fouling lifting it.

[JWFilips]

1/3 Hoppes 1/3 Pure Turps 1/3 Kroll.....The answer to everything in cast boolit shooting

[Le Loup Solitaire]

I've used Clenzoil for many years now. It does a great job as a solvent and a rust preventative as well. LLS

[FergusonTO35]

Been using Hoppe's since I was a kid. Around here you have to go to a big box sporting goods store in Lexington to find any other types.

[454PB]

I like Hoppes, but I've also used Marvel Mystery Oil for cleaning handguns.

[.22-10-45]

I use Hoppe's solvent for all my cast-bullet & rimfire cleanup. Lately, for revolvers, I have been using Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover. I let cyl. & bore soak for a few min. & patch out, followed by Hoppe's. Used to use a pile of patches getting carbon out of cyl. with Hoppe's alone.

[goryshaw]

Still have a partial quart of 30+ year old Hoppes #9 sitting in the garage. Discovered Ed's Red a few years ago, and I'll never go back to Hoppes again. The smell of Hoppes brings back memories, but Ed's Red has cleaned guns that Hoppes won't touch.

[M-Tecs]

The old #9 with nitro benzene was OK but current stuff doesn't hold a candle to some of the new products.

[Lead Freak]

I like Hoppes, but I've also used Marvel Mystery Oil for cleaning handguns.

There's nothing like the smell of Marvel Mystery Oil! Mmmmmm!

[Mk42gunner]

I used Hoppe's #9 for a lot of years, Outer's Nitro Solvent too, then found out how to make Ed's Red. I've never actually seen a can of Ballistol for sale.

Robert

[Vann]

Hoppe's for cleaning smokeless, Ballistol for BP. That's the way I like it.

[JSH]

Hoppes #9, Ballistol, Kroil, and Wipe Out all set on my bench. I have some eds red and have used it for several years.
I tried several of the do all snake oils and the above is what has worked for me depending on the gun and what I am trying to clean.

[Petrol & Powder]

When it comes to firearms, EVERYONE has their own pet oil/cleaner/solvent, etc. So why should I be different ;-) ?

For an all around, cleaner/lubricant - "If I could only have one", type of product; I'm squarely with Le Loup Solitaire. Clenzoil is an excellent product. It appears to be a bit of a regional thing and I usually have to order it but it has come closer to the Nirvana "do-it-all" requirement than any other product I've found. And I've been using it about 15+ years now.

I keep Hoppes #9 on hand and it does do a good job on copper fouling but for the most part Kroil has replaced it when I'm shooting cast bullets. Kroil is also a very good product for general quick gun cleaning.

Ballistol is more of a wood & leather cleaner that can also be used on metal in a pinch.

I'm old school and still trust RIG for long term storage of any ferrous metal.

I keep a tube of white lithium grease on hand for some special applications. STP is good for cylinder arbors (but not much else, too thick!).
If you're on a tight budget and don't mind the red dye, good ol' ATF will get you by just fine. I know one country gent that's never used anything other than kerosene to clean his guns and 3 in 1 oil to lubricate his guns.

[44man]

I use Hoppe's and Butch's Bore shine is better then anything I have used. For carbon, M-Pro 7 is best.
Clenzoil is still good. Ed's Red does nothing for me at all over Hoppe's.
I have many solvents and not a one does what it says. The smell of Butch's is like nuts and I fear it in the trash can but the stuff will really clean a gun. It removes copper and lead.
Sweets for copper is good.
I have many cans of Ballistol and it is great for many things but for BP it is best.

[Walla2]

Hoppe's for over 50 years primarily. Some others for specific cleaning chores. Hard for me to beat Hoppe's for my cleaning needs.

[Shuz]

I like Ed's Red the best!

[Paul_R]

Never could stand the smell of Hoppes. Generally, if it stinks so bad I can't use it in the kitchen I don't want it around (and neither does my wife). Hot soapy water works as good or better than most solvents especially on black powder. Other than that, water solubil biodegradable Slip 2000 cleaner/degreaser and carbon killer are all I use. Eezox after for corrosion prevention.

On a side note, nothing takes cosmoline and tar off better or faster than Slip 2000 cleaner/degreaser

[jmort]

I like the non-toxic CLPs, Ballistol and Frog Lube. I like the smell of Ballistol. It got a big boost when Hickok45 used it in his cleaning videos. All around, I have come around on Frog Lube, best rust protection when applied on warm metal and excellent lubrication and cleaning. I guess that is what makes for a great CLP. Frog Lube, along with the original non-toxic CLP, Ballistol, are all I need. No gloves needed, I hate wearing gloves and am so happy I can avoid it with these most excellent products.

[lefty o]

ballistol is some worthless stinky stuff. cant even stand being near it. as for hoppe's, the modern stuff is not very good unless you want to let it soak for weeks at a time. butch's bore shine, and a few others are so much better at cleaning a bore that its not even funny.

[johniv]

Have used about all of the products mentioned here, have setteled on Ed' red. I have used a ton of Ballistol years ago and was not impressed. (Funny though how some love , and some hate the smell) A good cleaner, and rust preventative , is Birchwood Casey Barricade. The company touts it as a lube, but I don't use it as such. It does not remove jacket fouling ( of course nobody here uses jacketed) The scuttlebutt is that Ballistol is non toxic, and some of the folks who first imported it, drank the stuff and clamed all kind of benefits , not mentioning that the spray cans used Benzine as a carrier, which I believe is carcinogenic. Kids don't try this at home!!
FWIW

[44man]

Ballistol can be used as an antiseptic for a wound.
I would not drink it. Sheath and Barricade are my best to prevent rust but they are not "cleaners."
Ed's red has not proven to be better then the cheapest cleaner. I used it a lot and the next pass with Hoppe's removed a ton of crud. Ed's might protect a bore but it is a sad cleaner. ATF is a good product but does not clean a gun, it stops rust better.

[Hardcast416taylor]

I`m down to my last 2 brown glass chemical 1/2 gal. jugs of old formula Hoppe`s #9. I bought 4 of the steel 1 gal. drums of it back in the `80`s when I heard they were going another route on the formula. I had a supply of heavy brown glass lab 1/2 gal. jugs I transferred the drums into. I also still use old formula Shooters Choice that I bought a `few jugs` of back then.Robert

[Wild Bill 7]

I was sold on M-Pro 7 until I found Fire Clean. Pretty much clean the gun first and basically wipe it off and done the next range day. I use Remington bore cleaner to clean a really dirty cylinder face first, then Fire Clean it and maybe use a bronze brush for the face if necessary. JMHO

[Sam Casey]

I also like Butch's and Sweets outdoors on the range for break-in of new or "adoption" of older hi-power rifle. A nice warm afternoon on range with a soft breeze to carry off those obnoxious smells as you visit with friends between shots and cleaning strokes to the latest acquisition. Can't wait for Spring!

[Virginian]

Old #9 here as well. ;)

[gwpercle]

After reading about Ed' Red bore solvent for a long time, I downloaded the instructions, a little poking around the garage and shed I found everything for it. I don't have the Red dyed Kerosene but I do have clear kerosene for hurricane lamps and will use it , should work just as well .
Now I need to go dirty up a barrel and give it a try !

I found out what Marvel Mystery Oil is ....mineral oil and Stoddards Solvent , which is basically Dry Cleaning Fluid, or at least that is what it's original use was for. My Daddy was a believer in the stuff...I inherited three one gallon cans from him. I use it to clean rusty part parts and as a light gun oil.
Gary

[hendere]

I started using Ed's Red just because I had the fixin's around the garage. I've grown to like it a lot and haven't seen the need for anything else. I will add that I recently uncovered a box of gun stuff in the garage that included bottles of both Shooter's Choice and Hoppes that I had purchased in the mid '80s. I decided that I would experiment with all three. Not trying to be scientific by any means but neither removed anything further after I had cleaned with Ed's. I would imagine one should go with what his Wife complains least about smelling.

[wv109323]

I like Shooters Choice better than Hoppes.

[Hickok]

I use some Hoppe's, which I believe is mostly kerosene, Ballistol, it got the German Army through two world wars, and for stubborn copper fowling, Sweet's 7.62.

Used a lot of CLP, but now went to Mobil 1 Syn. motor oil for lube/ rust prevention.

I have a mix of BP firearms and smokeless.

[OilyPablo]

Ballistol, it got the German Army through two world wars.....

Really? They lost both times. Just saying. Did both use the stuff?

[Hickok]

Really? They lost both times. Just saying. Did both use the stuff?They didn't loose because of their firearms. It was in use by the German Army in both wars.http://www.ballistol-shop.de/History-of-Ballistol:_:86.html?language=en

If it could keep a Spandau, Maxim or a Mg 42 running, it was a good product

[OilyPablo]

I'm in the Ballistol completely sucks for cleaning, lubing and preserving camp. I wonder if they didn't use other oils as well.

[winelover]

Hate the smell Hoppe's...will only use it outdoors. Can't wait till the 16 ounce bottle, I bought thirty years ago, is history. I prefer Shooter's Choice or Butch's. Kroil and J-B Bore Shine, alternately, once in a while.

Winelover

[Paul_R]

Really? They lost both times.

I knew there had to be a reason, mystery solved! :mrgreen:

[Static line]

Well,after bookoo years of experimenting with what are touted as the best gun cleaners since the invention of the wheel,I have to sadly report that I am still experimenting.I am in the camp that none do anything really well.
Ballistol,yes,that goes hand in hand for my black powder shooters along with just plain old hot water and Dawn dish soap but Sheath is my rust preventitive of choice,even for black powder arms.
Ed's Red,humm,I really don't think it does a very good cleaning job as is touted either and I have all the nasty breath taking additives in it too. I have found myself following up with Hoppys not only to clean what didn't get cleaned or just to put that good historic smell back into my nostrils.
Sweets,Montana Xtreme,and Butches all do a better job in less time and surprisingly,the foam cleaners are great to remove copper too,been there -done that.I thought no way until I tried the foam and then my eyes opened up real big after running a clean patch through the bore and seeing the green junk that came with it.
I never tried mixing different solvent since it states not to do that on most bottles and why I don't know.After all,look what we are doing mixing up the witch's brew of Ed's Red..yikes!
Kroil,humm,I think I like it too.It's been doing well of late so now I am thinking of a mix of that with Butch's or Montana Xtreme.Might have something there,u think ?

[Garyshome]

+1..."I mix my own Ed's Red" I mix up about 1 qt. out of stuff I have sitting around, lasts a long time.

[Thin Man]

Over the years I have used practically all of the commonly available solvents that were readily available in my area. Can't remember how I got started on it, but once I tried Shooter's Choice solvent (MC-7) I was through with searching. The stuff simply works and works well. No corrosion or damage to metal, all debris is gone from bore, to include lead, copper and plastic. The thin residual coating left from drying off the cleaned surface shows no rust after several months of storage. Good stuff. It works quickly and thoroughly, exactly what I needed. I also use it with 0000 steel wool to remove pin-head surface rust from blued metal. It gives a very satisfactory response for rust removal.

Then came the day I was needing to replace my conventional lubes for daily uses. This would be used to lube slides on pistols, rails on pump shotguns, bolt recesses on rifles and shotguns, just the every day applications. I got a small supply of Shooter's Choice FP-10 lube based on my satisfaction with their solvent. Wow, another winner. This lube is thin so it readily gets into tight areas. Once applied it seems to migrate without much effort and overcomes binding, also works as a preservative. I was so impressed I ordered a larger supply both for my use and to sell.

A few years after I started with the lube I had a customer who, like many others, was going through the all too common problems of breaking in a new Kimber Solo 9mm. The pistol was giving failure to feed, extract and/or eject on a high rate. I lubed (FP-10) and test fired the pistol, zero malfunctions. Before the customer returned to pick up the pistol I took time to read Kimber's break-in instructions for the pistol. They required a minimum of 200 rounds of 9mm ammo with minimum 124 grain (yup, odd number) bullets before they would entertain any complaints about cycling. They also demanded that the pistol be lubed only with Shooter's Choice FP-10 lube for the break-in, and that the use of any other lube would violate their warranty. Yes, this was in their printed instructions. They believed in the product, and that only encouraged me to continue using it. Fast forward, since that time the more recent Kimber instruction pamphlets for Solo break-in now include other lubes the factory will allow the owner to use. This almost sounds like some of the other lube manufacturers got their knickers in a twist by being left out of the original instruction sheets, made their concerns known to Kimber, and Kimber responded. While the other makers have a good product, Kimber had decided the lube they liked the best. Kimber and I agree on that choice.

Thin Man

[Lead Fred]

Hoppes No 9 since 1961, it now comes in quart bottles. Im set for the rest of my days

[Petrol & Powder]

Like I said earlier, everyone has their favorite oil, grease, cleaner, preservative....

There's no one product that does it all. There are some that come closer than others but for the most part one must pick one's tool for the job. The ammonia based cleaners work well on copper fouling. The light oils work well in cold weather. The light greases with lithium work well on sliding surfaces in higher heat. The list goes on.
Add sand, dust, high humidity, high heat, extreme cold, etc. and you still must pick your tool for the job.

This article puts the issue into perspective: http://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/

[marlin39a]

I use hoppes 9, shooters choice, and Ballistol. I love the smell of all of them. I guess I'm like a kid sniffing gasoline. Well, I scrub and swab until all is well. Then comes the lube....

[T-Bird]

Tried ED's Red didn't think it worked as well as Hoppes. Went back to Hoppes several years ago. Love the smell, smelled it since the '60's reminds me of fun. Using it now- with complete satisfaction. Cleaned my 45 colt with it about 10 min ago. Shoot Straight T-Bird

[DerekP Houston]

dang, I just grab whichever one I spot on the shelf first. Through gifts and friends I've accumulated more than I'll use probably. Only one I haven't cared for is "gunblaster" though I'm not sure exactly what the product is designed for. Seems to dry too fast and leaves a white residue. Frog lube has been decent, CLP, rem oil, etc. Nothing in particular done for care here other than regular cleaning and storing in the safe.

[Rodfac]

Ed's Red for swabbing out powder fouling etc., but as Ed points out, it won't remove copper jacket fouling. For that I use Sweet's or Hoppes' Copper Out, then swab the remnants out with Ed's Red or Kroil. For grease, I've got a cpl lifetime supplys of Military spec weapons grease. And I lube with CLP or whatever the military is using in those 1/4 pint OD plastic bottles. For lead removal, I used to use a Lewis Lead Remover with the various caliber attachments...nowadays, its an all copper chore boy wrapped around a well worn bronze brush. A cpl passes with that beauty and I'm back to the lands and grooves again. HTH's Rod