Little dandy powder measure

[T-Bird]

I have recently started loading for 9mm and am using Titegroup. I have been using my RCBS Uniflo measure because that's what I use for all the rest of my calibers that I load for- but none have as small a case as the 9mm. My uniflo measures Titegroup at +or- .2gr. I'm trying for 4.3 gr and am getting 4.1 to 4.5 gr as measured by an RCBS Micro pro scale.I have a Little Dandy that someone gave me a while back but it only has one rotor and I have never used it. If I buy one of the adjustable rotors for this, does it have the potential to be a more accurate measure for small charges?

[BNE]

I have NOT used an adjustable rotor on my Little Dandy, so I can not precisely answer your question. That being said, I have loaded thousands of pistol bullets with the Little Dandy. I have ~10 rotors. Finding the right rotor is a little bit of a pain, and if you have to get a bunch of rotors to find the correct powder weight, it is not cheap.

BUT,

I get VERY consistent throws with this device. I lightly "double tap" the rotor on the up / refill stroke and then drop the powder in one consistent motion. Once I did this, the consistency of my loads greatly improved.

The big difference between the two devices is the diameter of the hole is much smaller on the Little Dandy. The Uniflows diameter is geared more for larger volumes of powder. (My opinion.)

I would reccomend yo look up the RCBS chart for the poder you are using and the amount you want to drop. Buy the rotor they reccomend AND the ones on either side of it. That way you are sure to get the weight you want to drop or you can try different loads.

An adjustable one MAY work fine, but then you have to adjust it for every caliber or different load you are wanting to make. The benifit to a fixxed cavity is you will ALWAYS get the same powder drop.

I have also modified two of my rotors. One was dropping loads on the low side and I had it just kissed with a drill to increase the powder load it dropped. The other was dropping too much, I put a small amount of epoxy into the bottom and filled the hole a little.

I hope this helps. The Little Dandy works very well.

[AZ Pete]

Get the adjustable rotor, you will like it.

[T-Bird]

BNE that was my thought about the cavity size of the uniflo. Thanks both of you. I'm going the order the adjustable. Shoot Straight, T-Bird

[T-Bird]

Ordered the rotor on the 8th, received it on the 10th! talk about service! haven't used it yet.

[w5pv]

I have elcheap-o Lee that I set a couple of tenths under the charge I want and then use a trickle charger to bring it to 0 for the charge I want.

[country gent]

Another trick with the fixed rotors is to get the next size bigger and fine tune it down with layers of tape to fill the cacity to just what you want or a very snug disc of paper or thin card board in the bottom. They can be fine tuned in this manner to just what you want.

[T-Bird]

thanks for the info!

[rsrocket1]

4.1 to 4.5 is way too much deviation for Titegroup. The Hodgdon site will show that range as being the difference between the min to overload on some rounds and you will definitely feel a difference in recoil with 0.4g which is not good for consistent shooting.

Both my Lee Perfect Powder measure and my Hornady LnL AP measure drop to within 0.1g with Titegroup so if you can't get a much more consistent drop on your measure, consider buying the el-cheapo Lee. Just make sure you empty the hopper after each session because that powder has a tendency to melt plastic hoppers. Not all, just some.

[Sam Casey]

I think Country Gent suggested a L Dandy when I was getting back into pistol shooting. I like mine and have found the RCBS rotor chart to be pretty close when deciding which rotors to buy. I can't imagine a faster way to charge 50 cases on a loading block .... Well maybe with a Dillon. Midway has rotors on sale for just over $10.

[T-Bird]

got my adjustable rotor from Bailey Boat up and runnin', it works great. can adjust it without removal from the measure. there is a little trick to get consistent charges- have to be careful to " delay before dumping" the same each time. I like this thang. Rocket, I read that about powder melting hoppers a few years after I started loading. I had been leaving powder in mine all the time with no prob., but I stopped. Didn't know if it was real or not but didn't want to chance it. Shoot straight, T-Bird

[T-Bird]

By the way, where can I get a new hopper for this LD? mine has small cracks in the bottom. It's ok for now, but I'm afraid it might give up one day.

[T-Bird]

Answered my own question- RCBS for the hopper-DUH!

[doghawg]

I've got all the "Little Dandy" rotors from #3 thru #26 plus a few half sizes (modified with drill bit) such as 7 1/2, 8 1/2 etc for often used loads that I want to fine tune. Most of this set was accumulated back when rotors sold for $4 though... This powder measure set up covers everything from 9mm through .475 Linebaugh for me. I appreciate the accuracy of the charge plus the repeatability and keep a chart of what each rotor throws. No fiddling with adjustments ...just change rotors.

[Patrick L]

I bought mine back in 1989 used from a guy that went overboard on everything he did, then got bored and sold off stuff cheap and moved on to something else. I recall I got the LD and bushings 2-26 for about $25! I subsequently picked up bushing #1 in a used stuff bin at a LGS, probably for a buck or two. Love mine!

[T-Bird]

Liking this adjustable rotor more and more. As I figure out how to standardize my method of "scooping" my loads have become MUCH more consistent. Esp for the smaller charges. I don't typically use my micro-pro because my balance scale was accurate enough for larger charges. I mostly used it as periodic "QC". I'm not used to measuring charges that need to be +or- .1gr. This scale will show it, and this measure will do it. Y'all have fun! T-Bird

[jem102]

I have loaded thousands of handgun rounds over the years with my LD. As already stated the RCBS chart is very close. I have one chart that is 20+ years old and a can of Red Dot bought last month was no more than a 10/th off that chart with rotors all of which are, at the least, 10 years old. Probably one of the most consistent systems out there including my Neil Jones measure.

[toallmy]

You can use a drop of finger nail polish to take up some space in a over sized one as well . Very handy little powder measure.

[David2011]

By the way, where can I get a new hopper for this LD? mine has small cracks in the bottom. It's ok for now, but I'm afraid it might give up one day.

Seems to be an endemic issue with the Little Dandy. Yes, you can get a replacement from RCBS. I don't normally jury rig things but made an exception this time. I just put a hose clamp around mine to keep the crack from spreading and it's held up for years. I did trim the excess hose clamp band off and smoothed it so it wouldn't slice skin.

I like mine. IMO they're far more consistent than adjustable powder measures, even with Unique and other fluffy powders. It has all of the rotors except the 00, which is way smaller than I would use anyway.

David

[Ole Joe Clarke]

I called or e mailed RCBS, (can't remember which) and they sent me a new tube. Can't beat that.

[Green Frog]

I noticed that the plastic reservoir on one of my Little Dandies was starting to crack, so I picked up a spare or two at the next big gun show I went to (there is a vendor who comes to the larger VA shows) and I noticed the other day one is still in the package on my bench. If you are really that hard on them, you can buy a piece of nickel plated drain pipe from your local plumbing supply for a retro look that will last forever! :bigsmyl2:

Froggie

[Airman Basic]

Called RCBS and they sent the barrel postpaid for free. Can't beat that.

[Tony S]

I have a Bonanaza tool that is like the RCBS Little Dandy. I heard that they one and the same as far as replacement parts go. Does anybody know for sure.

[David2011]

I have a Bonanaza tool that is like the RCBS Little Dandy. I heard that they one and the same as far as replacement parts go. Does anybody know for sure.

Hi Tony,

Great question. I don't have an answer but wanted to welcome you to the forum!

David

[Green Frog]

I have a Bonanaza tool that is like the RCBS Little Dandy. I heard that they one and the same as far as replacement parts go. Does anybody know for sure.

I believe you will find them different enough that the parts don't mix. IIRC, the Bonanza unit is more like the older Bair and Pacific units, but I'm not sure even they will work with your Bonanza. Could you post a set of dimensions of one of the rotors that actually measure the powder on your measure? I'll compare those to the Little Dandy rotors (and Pacific rotors) that I have.

Froggie

[GOPHER SLAYER]

I can tell you for sure that the Pacific measure is different. The rotors are much smaller on the Pacific. In fact I had another pacific and their rotors were different.

[Leadmelter]

What adjustable measure?
I have all the rotors, great tool.
Leadmelter
MI

[marlinman93]

I have an RCBS Little Dandy, and two Pacifics, and use them quite a bit at the range for reloading on the spot. I haven't reworked the RCBS rotors, but the Pacific uses brass rotors, so I often custom drill them out to tune them to the exact charge I want. I use the Pacific when breech seating in my.32-40 Ballard schuetzen rifle, as I can use my Meacham re-de priming tool to pop out a primer, and re-prime the case. Then drop a charge with the Pacific, breech seat a bullet in the bore, and chamber the charged cartridge. With the hand primer, and Pacific powder measure, I can shoot the same case all day long with very good accuracy

[Ole Joe Clarke]

I missed a bid on another of the Pacific pistol powder measures by that much. I have one that uses the 1/2" diameter brass bushings, and also have a Little Dandy, I need to drill out one of the bushings that a nice member of this forum sent me free of charge. The Pacific pistol measure doesn't come up for sale much, they are great little tools.

[marlinman93]

The Pacific pistol measure doesn't come up for sale much, they are great little tools.

They sure don't! When the 2nd one I found showed up on a table at our local gun show NIB, with no bushings for $5, I figured why not have a spare?

[Wayne Smith]

I got my Pacific with the slide cheap because the original aluminiun slide was broken at the hole for the bushings. I sent the broken slide to Buckhot and he made me a steel one that only took literally three swipes with my file to fit perfectly. I have drilled out several cutoffs of 1/2" brass to make my own measures.

[Ole Joe Clarke]

Any of you Little Dandy guys have any spare rotors? I need 4, 6, 7 and 9. Send me a pm if you do, I might have something to trade.

[CLAYPOOL]

I would like to add from # 12 on.

[Green Frog]

They sure don't! When the 2nd one I found showed up on a table at our local gun show NIB, with no bushings for $5, I figured why not have a spare?

The limiting factor is the rotors! Extra rotors are hard to find and only a couple of my measures came with more than a single rotor. I may have to break down and actually make some. :???:

Froggie

[Ole Joe Clarke]

The Little Dandy comes with "Rotors", the Pacific comes with brass bushings, 1/2" dia x 1/2" long, with the appropriate diameter hole drilled and/or bored in it. By the way, if you have a Bushing chart for the Pacific, the inside diameter for a particular load/powder is shown on the chart.

[Wayne Smith]

Froggie and I have had this confusion in the past. It appears that Pacific made or marketed both styles, with the rotor (a la RCBS/Bair) and one with the slide and bushing. I have a Bair with the rotor and a Pacific with the bushing - and somewhere in the back of my alleged mind something is telling me that Pacific bought Bair and those two with the rotor are the same?

[Ole Joe Clarke]

This is the Pacific that I am talking about, with the brass bushings.

http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad123/olejoeclark/Reloading/20160307_100544-1_zpsx8qpycpp.jpg (http://s928.photobucket.com/user/olejoeclark/media/Reloading/20160307_100544-1_zpsx8qpycpp.jpg.html)

[marlinman93]

That's not the little Pacific pistol powder measure. The two I have are much smaller, and have rotors very similar to my Little dandy. I never use my Little Dandy anymore, as I prefer the slightly smaller Pacific measures.
Here's a picture I found on the internet. The Pacifics are center and right:
http://media.whydevelop.com/n/www.nwsnowbum.com/imgs/pacific_powder_measures.jpg

[Wayne Smith]

That's what I was saying - they are both Pacific Pistol Powder Measures.

[Sam Casey]

Can anyone suggest a product to coat the LD rotors with to prevent corrosion? Something that won't contaminate powder. Mine are still clean, but it seems most used ones offered F/S are speckled with rust.

[Ole Joe Clarke]

Ok, we were all right. My photos are much better than my descriptions at explaining things. The Bair/Pacific pre date my Pacific/Hornady measures.

Thanks for straightening me out.

Leon

[Green Frog]

A couple of other changes... the early Pacific measures are painted black on their cast iron bodies and the early units have a clamp built in while the later ones have a two piece mounting plate.

Froggie

[Wayne Smith]

That's interesting, Froggie. My Bair is blue with a two piece mounting plate. I'm assuming (here I go again!) that it predates the Pacific version.

[marlinman93]

Both of my Pacifics are blue and have built in clamps. One piece.

[Ole Joe Clarke]

There is a Bair powder measure listed on fleabay, black with built in clamp. No financial interest here.

[Chill Wills]

There are only about 28 rotors needed to cover the full range. I have exactly 5 for mine. Every time I think I have the perfect use for that handy little powder meter, I find I am about one or two rotor numbers off of being able to drop the correct amount of powder.

I'm going to make a few blank rotors and then maybe I can drill the cavity as needed and fill a few blanks in my stable.

I was measuring my few up last night and giving them a good look over. I found an unused pair of small threaded holes on the opposite end of the rotor from the finger knob. Hmmm, some kind of attachment I don't have and don't need, ....or do I?

[cuzinbruce]

With my Little Dandy rotors, I keep them in a plastic shotshell box, with sme VPI paper to prevent rust. The rotors fit perfectly in the little compartments.

[Ole Joe Clarke]

The tapped holes are probably for a small handle to attach. I believe the threaded one is a 8-32 thread.

A member of this forum generously gave me 2 rotors that he had duplicates of. I'm probably going to try drilling one of them out to the size I need. Just haven't done it yet.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

[CLAYPOOL]

I sometimes dump 2 or 3 times to get the "Charge" I want. You can scale a 2 dump the same as a altered rotor.

[Green Frog]

That's interesting, Froggie. My Bair is blue with a two piece mounting plate. I'm assuming (here I go again!) that it predates the Pacific version.

Negatory Wayne, you've got it backwards. The Pacific measures go back before WW II. Bair didn't start up with theirs until the '50s or later, if I read the stories right. Early Bairs looked like the Pacific (except for color) but then got the redesign on their clamp mechanism.

Froggie

[dg31872]

I love my Little Dandy, but I hate the chart. Any idea where I can get an accurate chart that trifocals can see?

[Ole Joe Clarke]

I did a search on the net and found a pdf file that I downloaded. I can blow it up so my tri focals and ole eyes can read it. I have notes from 35 years ago showing my rotors dropped powder charges just as the chart shows. One of them was off a tenth of a grain. Close enough.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

[Green Frog]

I did a search on the net and found a pdf file that I downloaded. I can blow it up so my tri focals and ole eyes can read it. I have notes from 35 years ago showing my rotors dropped powder charges just as the chart shows. One of them was off a tenth of a grain. Close enough.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

Leon,

I'd say you are the exception to the rule! I find my RCBS rotors to ALWAYS drop a little and sometimes significantly light. I can't remember ever having one drop exact, full marked weight and of course NEVER heavy. Although I don't do it and would NEVER ADVISE IT, I would feel fairly confident dropping a light charge by the chart, being certain it would be below "advertised" weight. Just my experience, YMMV. ;)

Froggie

[Ole Joe Clarke]

Froggie,

I don't load ANYTHING without double checking the charge on the scale. All the action is to close to me when the trigger is pulled.

[Chill Wills]

With regard to making weight, I have to say, the rotors I have are on the mark.

I drop H-38 in rotor 1 and 2 and it is amazing how close they drop each time. Sometimes the #2 drops 3.1 grain instead of the 3.0 but mostly it is on.
The powder makers are in control of the powder density and they are for the most part very good too.
We, as rifleman here in the USA, have it pretty good!:grin:

[EDG]

I think the Dandy was also designed to be used with the RCBS green machine and the measure actuator used the 2 holes in the rotors.
I have nearly a full set of rotors collected back when you could get one for a buck or two. The rotors that throw 5 gr of Unique, 13 grains of Unique and the largest rotor have gotten all the use. I use the largest for reduced rifles charges and for full charges in the 44 mag. That is to say I use the powder charge that works with the rotor and not the other way around.


There are only about 28 rotors needed to cover the full range. I have exactly 5 for mine. Every time I think I have the perfect use for that handy little powder meter, I find I am about one or two rotor numbers off of being able to drop the correct amount of powder.

I'm going to make a few blank rotors and then maybe I can drill the cavity as needed and fill a few blanks in my stable.

I was measuring my few up last night and giving them a good look over. I found an unused pair of small threaded holes on the opposite end of the rotor from the finger knob. Hmmm, some kind of attachment I don't have and don't need, ....or do I?

[marlinman93]

I've never had my RCBS or Pacific measures drop heavy. I do check them before using them to ensure they're on, but don't weigh at the range because the wind raises havoc with my scale. Since I'm often using the Pacific for load work up, or breech seating while shooting, weighing each charge at the range isn't realistic. Instead I choose which rotors I will take, along with the powder. Then I sit down at my bench at home and dump and weigh loads to see what the measure drops, prior to heading to the range.

[Chill Wills]

I shoot 3.8grs of 231 or HP-38 in a Smith M-67 (38 Special). Today I wanted to see what it would take to make a rotor that would drop that amount. The first of something is always the one that takes time. I was pleasantly surprised how easy it came together.
I can make more!

The nice part about making them as you need them might be that you can make in between numbers for what your load is. The RCBS chart for HP-38 shows a #4 dropping 3.6grs and a #5 at 4.0grs. So I made a #4.5 rotor.

I made this rotor out of 1" aluminum hex stock. I left the knob end hex instead of knurled and round. I like the hex knob but starting with 7/8" stock would be a better size. One inch is just a little clumsy looking. I Don't have anything in 7/8" just now.

I will have to see how well I like aluminum for rotors. RCBS uses steel. Brass would be classy, and pricey.
Cost in aluminum or 12L14 steel is basically my time.

[EDG]

A hexagon body machined from brass would look good with the steel rotors.


I shoot 3.8grs of 231 or HP-38 in a Smith M-67 (38 Special). Today I wanted to see what it would take to make a rotor that would drop that amount. The first of something is always the one that takes time. I was pleasantly surprised how easy it came together.
I can make more!

The nice part about making them as you need them might be that you can make in between numbers for what your load is. The RCBS chart for HP-38 shows a #4 dropping 3.6grs and a #5 at 4.0grs. So I made a #4.5 rotor.

I made this rotor out of 1" aluminum hex stock. I left the knob end hex instead of knurled and round. I like the hex knob but starting with 7/8" stock would be a better size. One inch is just a little clumsy looking. I Don't have anything in 7/8" just now.

I will have to see how well I like aluminum for rotors. RCBS uses steel. Brass would be classy, and pricey.
Cost in aluminum or 12L14 steel is basically my time.

[Ole Joe Clarke]

I don't think brass or aluminum is a good choice for rotors, because if they are used a lot the edges of the cavity will become dull and will not "cut" the grains of powder as efficiently as a piece of hardened steel will. They will look good though.

[Wayne Smith]

I think the rotors of my Bair are Bronze, not Brass.

[Chill Wills]

I don't think brass or aluminum is a good choice for rotors, because if they are used a lot the edges of the cavity will become dull and will not "cut" the grains of powder as efficiently as a piece of hardened steel will. They will look good though.

Yes, this is my thought too. However, I am trying a few sample rotors made out of aluminum in the smaller cavity sizes for use with the small spherical or ball (non-stick) powders. I think if a larger rotor intended for SR-4759 or IMR-3031 stick powder were needed I would start with Steel.

[Ole Joe Clarke]

I used to love to machine FMYB, (free machining yellow brass), because a high speed tool bit with a big ole radius ground on the end and honed a little bit will turn a beautiful finish on the brass and last forever. Hated to machine "Naval" brass and cartridge brass, it's tough and stringy.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

[Sam Casey]

Cuzinbruce - good suggestions about vapor wrap & shotshell box (12ga I assume). Am fairly new to the LD, but really like them. Have found that you need to clean all mfr residue/ preservative out of rotor powder pocket to get consistently accurate drops .... Thus exposing rotor to corrosion when out of use.

[Chill Wills]

JPW or Johnson's paste wax is your friend. Powder does not stick to it. Helps with rust and really keeps the rotor moving well.

[EDG]

In this photo you can see the Little Dandy mounted on the Green Machine.
On the end of the rotor that has the 2 holes there is a circular plate with a slot that is driven by some sort of shaft.

168842

[Chill Wills]

Man EDG, I remember when those first came out in the early '80's, having a Green Machine was in the Big League. A friend was a 41 Mag NUT and talked and talked to RCBS until they provided one.

Your location is not shown but that unit shows some "humid conditions" shall we say. :kidding:

I made up a few sample rotors in Aluminum and had a time yesterday so made one rotor in steel. No harder in one metal than the other.
Took me about an hour for the third one now that I know the procedure. I have not replicated the GM holes in the end...
I might just get a full set out of this yet!

[Chill Wills]

You know - it did not dawn on me until I thought about that picture you posted of the press. The RCBS Green Machines I have looked at were inline machines and the one in the picture looks to be a rotation type press - OR am I just not seeing correctly what is in the picture?

[EDG]

You might google RCBS Green Machine and then hit images for all the photos

Click image for a larger view.

168873

The "rotary" part you can see looks like a case feeder. The Green Machine is an inline knock off of an earlier brand . I remember that this design existed before RCBS put it on the market. Some other forums mention the CH Mark 5 and in the photos they are very close. There are comments that the C H was a knock off of an even earlier loading machine.
I have never owned one since I don't shoot pistols all that much and the reports I read about the machine indicated it was pretty fussy to get set up right.



You know - it did not dawn on me until I thought about that picture you posted of the press. The RCBS Green Machines I have looked at were inline machines and the one in the picture looks to be a rotation type press - OR am I just not seeing correctly what is in the picture?

[Chill Wills]

OK. We are on the same page. This view of it is what I remember. Your right about the fussy part. That is what my revolver shooting friend found out with his too.