Starting with Lee Tumble Lube Molds?

[mmesa005]

Hello All,

I have had a busy last 6+ months with my family issues and finally getting back to wanting to casting my first boolits. I think I would like to start with casting 9mm using Lee Tumble Lube molds as I can use Alox or powder coat them? Also I understand no resizing is required with these molds? This allows me to not have to invest in a Lube A Sizer and see if casting is going to work for me? I am keeping my eyes open for someone local with equipment for sale. If not I figure I can get a hot plate and a pot/ladle and start with that.

Feedback appreciated.

[C. Latch]

Yes, and maybe.

You can use alox to tumble-lube the Lee bullets, or any bullets for that matter, and, yes, you can powder-coat them.

You may or may not need to size them. Not every Lee mold will drop the exact same size bullets and not every firearm will need the exact same size, and nobody can predict what combination you'll end up with. Worst case, get a push-through Lee sizer for $20 and size your bullets that way. That's what I do.

[mmesa005]

C. Latch - Yes, the Lee sizer is a good idea and as you pointed out only another $20! Do you have a favorite 9mm mold? I am thinking about this one

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/476412/lee-6-cavity-bullet-mold-tl356-124-2r-9mm-luger-38-super-380-acp-356-diameter-124-grain-tumble-lube-2-ogive-radius

[jmort]

I like Tumble Lube Groove aka Micro Groove bullets, but most don't. You can try shooting unsized bullets. If not the sizing kits are cheap. The PC will bump up the size of the 9mm bullet which will probably be a good thing. Your 9mm may like .357" to .358" bullets. Get your Lee Precision products from Titan. Click on their banner at the top of this page. Good idea to start slow.
http://www.titanreloading.com/lube-sizing-kit

[mmesa005]

jmort,

I have purchased from Titan before, usually get my Lee press accessories from them so I will give them a try for the casting gear.

[RogerDat]

The little dipper ladle is a good choice for ladle casting. Lot of folks stick with ladle casting and never bother to get a bottom pour pot. I like the Lee 2 cavity molds. Inexpensive, come with handles, which the 6 cavity don't. But 2 cavity Lee handles are only $13 and will fit other molds so you can always move the handles to some other mold if you pick one up.

I think it is easier to get a good consistent casting from 2 cavities than more cavities but don't actually have any Lee 6 cavity. NOE 4 cavity cast well but getting and keeping the right temp with the bigger mold took more adjustment to hit a rhythm that worked. But then I had 1 and 2 cavity before so was used to that. One thing is folks tend to burn through a lot of 9mm ammo so maybe the higher productivity of a 6 cavity might be a better choice.

[mmesa005]

RogerDat,

Perhaps for learning purposes I may go with a 2 cavity mold then later graduate to a 6?

Thanks for sharing your experience!

[shoot-n-lead]

RogerDat,

Perhaps for learning purposes I may go with a 2 cavity mold then later graduate to a 6?

Thanks for sharing your experience!

With the 6 cavity...you don't have to use all 6 holes...you can start with 2 and use more as you get going...which won't be long at all. If I were casting for 9mm...which I don't...I would go ahead and get the 6 banger...you won't regret it.

[mmesa005]

shoot-n-lead,

You sold me on the 6 cavity mold!

Thanks!

[shoot-n-lead]

shoot-n-lead,

You sold me on the 6 cavity mold!

Thanks!

I think that you are making a good choice. You will have that thing raining bullets, in no time.

Let me warn you...this is a very addictive hobby.

Enjoy it...

[swmass]

Save yourself the headache and DONT buy the 124 grain lee tumble lube mold in 9mm! I believe it is the 356-124 TL TC mold that seems to give most of us a problem. Theres a round nose TL mold as well that may be better.. But read up on the 9mm tumble lube molds from lee, many people have problems with those rounds tumbling thus being inaccurate despite many efforts to solve it.

You can tumble lube a non tumble lube bullet and thats what I would recommend. Learn from my mistakes:wink:
Look into the lee 120 grain TC mold, most people seem to have great luck with it. You can purchase a sizing die from lee that will screw into your press like any other die and takes no time at all to push them through and size them. Then you can coat them in alox/paste wax or whatever you choose and shoot away. The sizing die comes with a container of alox and its really cheap. When buying a sizing die.. most modern firearms do great with 0.357 so that would be my recommended starting point. I personally shoot the lee 358-125 RF sized to 0.357. Just my opinion FWIW.

[mmesa005]

swmass,

Is this the mold? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/294531/lee-6-cavity-bullet-mold-356-120-tc-9mm-luger-38-super-380-acp-356-diameter-120-grain-truncated-cone

Thanks for saving me from buying the wrong mold!

[swmass]

Thats the one. Once you cast them you can lube them with alox just like a tumble lube bullet and size if needed.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/342812/lee-bullet-lube-and-size-kit-357-diameter

Thats the sizing die kit, it comes with alox and is probably a little cheaper from titan.

[mmesa005]

swmass,

Thanks!!!

[bottomline]

As others of suggested, definitely get the 6 banger. You will come up to speed quickly and will appreciate the significantly higher production.

I'm getting fonder of the lighter weight aluminum Lee's. Although I have several steel molds from Lyman & RCBS that I love, they are much heavier and left arm gets tiered quick. For the money they are hard to beat.

As for the 9mm mold. Like swmass, I also tried the 356-124- TL TC with less than good results. After slugging my barrel, I think I need at least a .357 and may try a 358 if it feeds ok.

Good luck and enjoy

[mmesa005]

Bottoline,

Thanks!

[11B-101ABN]

Contrary to the two previous comments, I have had excellent results with that Lee TL 356-124 2R boolit for 9mm. It's an opinion thing. I size them .358 with a Lee sizer push through, then PC, then size again. Some molds make out-of-round boolits and the sizer can correct this. I have cut my rejects to less than 5% by sizing twice. Another couple things to consider buying to ease your casting success .... get an L E Wilson case gage for 9mm it will help cull the problem ammo you make, and go to an auto parts place for a bottle of "A/C Ester Oil" viscosity ISO-100. An 8 ounce bottle will cost less than 10 bucks and this stuff works really well for lubing the sprue plate and alignment pins on your mold. It's a synthetic high temp oil used in automotive A/C. Get it Without the dye if you can... it comes with or without. Oh yeah, get the 6 cav mold, the learning curve is the same as a two cav mold. Finally, Welcome! Now go get your feet wet.

[jmort]

^^^ Good advice.

[mdi]

To determine if your bullets need to be sized, measure them! Bullets vary in diameter because of melt temperature, mold temperature, alloy and sometimes casting methods. A single mold can drop bullets up to .003" difference in diameter with the above variations, so measure your bullets with your alloy and temps. Sizing with a Lee die is no big deal nor is it a big investment (a Lee die can be used without a press too, just push/punch the bullets through. My first sizing tool was an old Lee hand sizer; a push-through die with a punch. The kit had a small pan for pan lubing and a "cookie cutter" also).

If you have other guns, I might suggest you start casting for them over a 9mm. Nines are usually more difficult (and frustrating) to get all the "factors" together to get leading free shooting (size, lube, alloy, powder, etc.) and it's a bit easier to begin casting for a 45 ACP, .38/357. .44, etc.

Learning how to control temperatures and identify temperature problems is often difficult for a new caster which is why I would suggest a two cavity mold. Temperatures between cavities on a two-hole is much, much easier to hold than a six cavity where the temp. difference between the end cavities is usually much greater and you may get good bullets outta cavity number 1 and 2, with so-so- bullets outta 3 and 4, but culls outta 5 and 6. A two cavity is easier to handle and will produce enough bullets so the caster won't get frustrated with a small pile of bullets like from a single cavity.

I have a favorite mold for my 9mms, .38 Specials and .357 Magnums; a Lee 125 gr RNFP, normal lube groove bullet. I size the bullet depending on which guns I casting for; .357"-.358" for my nines and .358"-.359" for my revolvers. I mostly dip lube my revolver bullets in alox or 45-45-10 and conventional lube for my 9s.

Jes an old geezer's experiences...

[mmesa005]

I appreciate all the great advice! Maybe I can find a pre-owned version of the 9mm in TL and non-TL and try them both?

[11B-101ABN]

Check the "Swappin-n-Sellin" section of this forum often (Daily), there's lots of used stuff there, but the good stuff goes rather quickly.

[ShooterAZ]

I first started out with tumble lube molds, and ended up selling them all off. I had FAR better performance from traditional lube groove ones. I understand starting out on the cheap, but consider if down the road you might want to get a lube-sizer. The regular groove bullets shoot just fine when tumble lubed. My advice: Order regular groove molds.

[DerekP Houston]

I have since upgraded and wouldn't mind sending you a 358 158gr rn if you want.

[bandsmoyer]

I too have have success with this mold. I shoot as cast

[Elkins45]

I think many would suggest you start with the TC version of the 9mm tumble lube bullet.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/340779/lee-6-cavity-bullet-mold-tl356-124-tc-9mm-luger-38-super-380-acp-356-diameter-124-grain-tumble-lube-truncated-cone

Personally I love tumble lube bullets and will always try those first. Lubing 1000 bullets in a sizer isn't my idea of a good time when I can tumble them up and be done in 15 minutes.

[mmesa005]

Elkins45,

I wasn't certain if the RN or TC would load better? What makes the TC a good first choice?

Thanks!

[mmesa005]

DerekP Houston,

I will PM you my mailing address, thanks!

[Elkins45]

Elkins45,

I wasn't certain if the RN or TC would load better? What makes the TC a good first choice?

Thanks!

The general consensus is that it is more accurate. I don't know exactly why. The TC nose does make better holes in the target, and almost no modern 9mm gun really needs a RN profile to feed well.

[mmesa005]

Elkins45,

I appreciate your guidance on the mold. ;)

[GONRA]

If you hava .45 ACP pistol, GONRA suggests starting
with the 230 grain round nose cast bullet.
Straight forward to cast, lube, size & load.

[mmesa005]

GONRA,

I do have a 45 ACP so I will put one of those molds on my list!!

Thank you!

[dudel]

Save yourself the headache and DONT buy the 124 grain lee tumble lube mold in 9mm! I believe it is the 356-124 TL TC mold that seems to give most of us a problem. Theres a round nose TL mold as well that may be better.. But read up on the 9mm tumble lube molds from lee, many people have problems with those rounds tumbling thus being inaccurate despite many efforts to solve it.

If it's this one, I love it. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/340779/lee-6-cavity-bullet-mold-tl356-124-tc-9mm-luger-38-super-380-acp-356-diameter-124-grain-tumble-lube-truncated-cone

Feeds in everything I've tried it in. Very good accuracy. Maybe a bit more difficult to cast due to tumble lube design; but once you find the sweet spot, you'll crank out piles of Boolits. I also have the same design in for 45ACP/GAP. Only complaint is that it can drain a 20# pot pretty fast.

[mmesa005]

Dudel,
Thank you ;)

[mmesa005]

Can someone confirm if this is the correct lead to order please?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QV3DOM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_8&smid=A2LAW7TV44RAOK

[jmort]

That is a premium alloy but you would be better off with some COWW from one of the forum members. I recommend
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?63886-Lead-Ingots-For-Sale-Buyer-s-Choice
Get the range lead or the clip on lead. You can add a little tin, or not.

[mmesa005]

guess I need to do more reading regarding lead. I was hoping to find lead ready to melt and not have to deal with adding tin, antimony, until I learn more?

If I purchase COWW should I purchase Superhard or Linotype to increase the hardness? Also, is there are FAQ as to how much Superhard/Linotype to add per # of lead?

Thanks!

[dudel]

Can someone confirm if this is the correct lead to order please?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QV3DOM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_8&smid=A2LAW7TV44RAOK

That will certainly work; but it's pretty pricey. Check the link up top for RotoMetals.

You can spend less with COWW, adding tin or what ever; but you're never really sure of your alloy. With wheel weights getting harder to obtain, there are many who forgo the search, and buy known alloys. It's not a bad way to start out, as it eliminates one of the bigger variables - the alloy.

[BUCKEYE BANDIT]

mmesa005 (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?29609-mmesa005)


In addition to this site and the hands on,can't recommend this enough.

160542


I use the Lee T/L TC in 9,40 and 45 and have good results with all of them.I water drop to increase hardness and tumble lube with 45/45/10 .
I have better luck pre-heating my boolits in a disposable alum. baking pan just to where you can handle them bare handed.I work in an unheated part of the basement.Old Peanut Butter jar and some wax paper are all you need.Big Box or H.F. have inexpensive heat guns or a hair dryer will do,just don't get caught with the significant other's.

[DerekP Houston]

guess I need to do more reading regarding lead. I was hoping to find lead ready to melt and not have to deal with adding tin, antimony, until I learn more?

If I purchase COWW should I purchase Superhard or Linotype to increase the hardness? Also, is there are FAQ as to how much Superhard/Linotype to add per # of lead?

Thanks!


If you don't mind spending a bit extra, you can simplify your starting point by purchasing the correct alloy. Rotometals sells directly from their site not sure if Amazon would be cheaper or more expensive. I did the same thing for my first ~40 lbs until I did the math and realized I was spending more than bulk ammo. It *WILL* work and you can focus on just your casting technique until you are comfortable. The swapping and selling section here is *excellent* and consistently cheaper than fleabay when you add in the ridiculous handling and shipping charges they add.

Mixing the lead can be as simple or as complicated as you want to make it. Check the lead forum here and you will find an excel spreadsheet for you to calculate how much pure lead to tin etc to add for your alloy. I just use range scrap and some 95/5 lead that I found local in bulk sale. Melt my lee pot ~18 lbs near the top and I drop in a piece of tin around 1oz, I don't know the exact content of my range scrap so I just add a bit of tin to help with fillout just in case. For rifle bullets/full house loads the alloy gets more important but I have had no issues with low-mid pressure target rounds.

[mmesa005]

Thanks again for all the great replies. I have an older Lyman Bullet Casting Book and I am re-reading the "From Ingot to Target" by Fryxell. I think my best place to start is with metal from Rotometals (Lyman mix of 90 5 5?) and then after getting the mechanics of casting down purchase metal from one of the forum users.

I did read about the spreadsheet and the pencil trick for testing metal hardness.

Even after all the reading remember I am a newbie so I feel better checking with the vet's!

Another question - are you guys wearing respirators? Or just running a fan along with casting outside?

Thanks again!

[mdi]

guess I need to do more reading regarding lead. I was hoping to find lead ready to melt and not have to deal with adding tin, antimony, until I learn more?

If I purchase COWW should I purchase Superhard or Linotype to increase the hardness? Also, is there are FAQ as to how much Superhard/Linotype to add per # of lead?

Thanks!
Not necessary. Go to The Captain's site and get some "clip on lead" (clip on wheel weight alloy). No need to start off alloying, but if this isn't hard enough for you you can add som "lead free" solder. I cast for mebbe 12 years using wheel weights exclusively and when the bullet fits the gun properly, there are no problems...

[mmesa005]

What is the Captains site please?

[jmort]

She is in the Vendor section of the forum. I gave you the link. You send her a PM and get the Range Scrap or the COWW. As suggested, add an ounce of tin to your pot. You can just get some lead free tin solder at Home Depot, Lowes, etc and add a small amount to your pot. You can do it. Don't get tin solder that has an acid or rosin core, just get tin solder.

Get a good strong fan, and set it up so it draws away from you. You want it to suck the fumes away.
Check this link out from The Man Jerry Miculek using range scrap. He starts casting around the 8:40 min mark
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PSgQ82Kqhzo

[DerekP Houston]

Thanks again for all the great replies. I have an older Lyman Bullet Casting Book and I am re-reading the "From Ingot to Target" by Fryxell. I think my best place to start is with metal from Rotometals (Lyman mix of 90 5 5?) and then after getting the mechanics of casting down purchase metal from one of the forum users.

I did read about the spreadsheet and the pencil trick for testing metal hardness.

Even after all the reading remember I am a newbie so I feel better checking with the vet's!

Another question - are you guys wearing respirators? Or just running a fan along with casting outside?

Thanks again!

Lol erm you will find a wide variety of safety precautions you can use or ignore at your own peril. Personally I just cast outside on the patio, it is covered from the elements and well ventilated. You can use a fan or something else for air exchange depending on where you are. *IF* you are starting with clean lead from a well known source there is typically a low amount of exposure danger besides the obvious don't chew on it and wash your hands. For cleaning "scrap lead" I'll make sure there is a good breeze and wear a cheap mask respirator for the fumes. Scrap lead refers to anything that may have contaminated materials (tar, dirt, coatings, etc) that you clean in a *seperate* container for use in your casting pot.

You can go the full hazmat route or not, depends on your preference. I believe my danger of lead exposure is *MUCH* higher at the indoor ranges vs my casting at home. The dirty brass also contains dangerous elements and should be handled with care. If you use a walnut/corn cob type tumbler try to avoid breathing in the dust when you empty the tumbler. This contains lead styphnate from the primers iirc. Wear some cheap disposable gloves and stay up wind ;).

[mmesa005]

The concern about lead poisoning gave me cold feet last time. I feel pretty confident this time around. Should be ordering everything this weekend and hopefully casting next weekend ;)

Thanks again for all the great advice!

[dudel]

Another question - are you guys wearing respirators? Or just running a fan along with casting outside?

Thanks again!

No respirator, but a fan blowing away can be helpful as long as it doesn't draw heat from the pot.

More importantly, are clothes. Long pants and sleeves. No synthetic fabrics. No sandals. Eye protection or a face shield. Gloves are handy. Some like long welding gloves, others like thinner, lighter more sensitive leather. I also anchor my pot to the bench. I'm a clutz, and don't want to knock over a pot of melt. Simple cleats on the table that the lee pot slides into. Keep the kidlets and animals away. Make sure you are clear overhead, don't want stuff falling on you or splashing the melt. Find a comfortable position to minimize fatigue. If you get tired, stop. When you finish, things aren't safe till everything cools down. Think safe, be safe.

[mmesa005]

dudel,

Looking at these gloves http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00164VPCQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_3&smid=A1L4LS2KNDBWYV

This face shield http://www.amazon.com/Safety-Works-641817021569-Full-Shield/dp/B0042TO6F0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1455242331&sr=8-3&keywords=full+face+shield

[mdi]

Sorry. The Captain is a vendor-sponsor http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?63886-Lead-Ingots-For-Sale-Buyer-s-Choice

[mmesa005]

mdi,

Thanks!

[dudel]

dudel,

Looking at these gloves http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00164VPCQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_3&smid=A1L4LS2KNDBWYV

This face shield http://www.amazon.com/Safety-Works-641817021569-Full-Shield/dp/B0042TO6F0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1455242331&sr=8-3&keywords=full+face+shield

I use these. http://www.harborfreight.com/welding-gloves-39664.html

This for face shield. http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-face-shield-46526.html

[mmesa005]

dudel,

Thank you!!!

[mdi]

I'd like you to see both sides of the "Safety Precautions/Scare". I began casting sinkers when I was 14 on my mother's stove. When I was done I cooled the pot with a glass of water slowly poured on top of the molten lead. No explosions, no Tinsel Fairy visit, just a lot of steam. I wiped the stove top with a damp rag and none of the 5 folks that ate food prepared on that stove got lead poisoning. Today I cast in my "shop", 12x18 inside with two windows and a normal sized door. I open a window, crack the door a few inches, and use a fan (6") to form a breeze above the pot, from left to right. When I flux I turn on two fans on high and open the door all the way and leave until the smoke clears. I'm a life long machinist/mechanic and never worked with gloves, except when stick welding, I prefer to have a "feel" of the object in my hands, believing it's safer. I wear glasses and when casting I wear my "work" glasses. If I dump any ingots or culls back into the pot, I'll stand up and make sure there are no splashes. I don't pick up any hot bullets (BTDT, I once got so excited over a perfectly cast .44 cal bullet that had just dropped outta my new mold I picked it up. Ouch!). I don't eat or drink while I'm casting and I wear normal shop clothes (long pants, closed shoes, most of the time long sleeved shirts). Basically I just use common sense. Some may say I'm a daring, careless, unsafe caster, but mebbe it's my background, (I was a "Safety Rep." for a heavy equipment repair shop for 5 years with the City of Los Angeles, and "thinking safe" is second nature for me), but I am healthy (had my blood/lead levels checked and am "normal"). I am health conscious because I recently celebrated 5 years cancer free ( 4 surgeries, 30 radiation treatments, and a bunch of other stuff). I certainly would no risk my health for some lead bullets.

So, if you wanna use a full hazmat suit with respirator, full face shield over safety glasses, a leather cap. leather gauntlets, welder's boots, cast in a fully ventilated paint booth, fine, do that. But using just plain old common sense, you'll be able to cast lead bullets for the rest of your life without worry...

[DerekP Houston]

I'd like you to see both sides of the "Safety Precautions/Scare". I began casting sinkers when I was 14 on my mother's stove. When I was done I cooled the pot with a glass of water slowly poured on top of the molten lead. No explosions, no Tinsel Fairy visit, just a lot of steam. I wiped the stove top with a damp rag and none of the 5 folks that ate food prepared on that stove got lead poisoning. Today I cast in my "shop", 12x18 inside with two windows and a normal sized door. I open a window, crack the door a few inches, and use a fan (6") to form a breeze above the pot, from left to right. When I flux I turn on two fans on high and open the door all the way and leave until the smoke clears. I'm a life long machinist/mechanic and never worked with gloves, except when stick welding, I prefer to have a "feel" of the object in my hands, believing it's safer. I wear glasses and when casting I wear my "work" glasses. If I dump any ingots or culls back into the pot, I'll stand up and make sure there are no splashes. I don't pick up any hot bullets (BTDT, I once got so excited over a perfectly cast .44 cal bullet that had just dropped outta my new mold I picked it up. Ouch!). I don't eat or drink while I'm casting and I wear normal shop clothes (long pants, closed shoes, most of the time long sleeved shirts). Basically I just use common sense. Some may say I'm a daring, careless, unsafe caster, but mebbe it's my background, (I was a "Safety Rep." for a heavy equipment repair shop for 5 years with the City of Los Angeles, and "thinking safe" is second nature for me), but I am healthy (had my blood/lead levels checked and am "normal"). I am health conscious because I recently celebrated 5 years cancer free ( 4 surgeries, 30 radiation treatments, and a bunch of other stuff). I certainly would no risk my health for some lead bullets.

So, if you wanna use a full hazmat suit with respirator, full face shield over safety glasses, a leather cap. leather gauntlets, welder's boots, cast in a fully ventilated paint booth, fine, do that. But using just plain old common sense, you'll be able to cast lead bullets for the rest of your life without worry...

+1! I wear glasses as well but not a face mask. And the heavy duty welding gloves are a god send for adding warmed ingots and flipping the sprue plate open.

[mmesa005]

mdi,

I appreciate your advice. My wife is a 2x Cancer survivor so that has given me a renewed appreciation for life and a reminder that we have 3 kids that have to get through school, get started in life, and need us to be around to help make that happen.

The plus and minus of YouTube is the information available. I imagine some of you have watched Fotune Cookie 45 "Comming to You from the Hot Lead Zone"? He talked about his lead poisoning experience which made me want to make certain along with what I pointed out above about my wife, that I take all the necessary precautions.

So, I have pulled the trigger and ordered most everything from Titan Reloading. The gloves, mask, some beeswax, mold release, Amazon / Harbor Freight. Still have to order lead and will probably do that through Rotometals unless I can get lead ready to melt / pour from another member here on the forum. I need to send a note to the Captain and see what's available before making any orders. Definitely want to support fellow members first!

[Ricochet]

Just another fan of both tumble lubing and truncated cone boolits here. I use the Lee TL-356-125-TC in my various 9mms and .45 ACPs. They're fast to cast en masse, require no sizing, tumble lubing is super quick and easy, and they shoot great. I have never encountered any of the problems I've read people posting here. Another good candidate for the 9mm is the 358-125-RF. Original German military 9mm ammo used truncated cone bullets, and American companies loaded them that way as well. I've read that the Brits complained that the truncated cone 9mm bullets were cruelly designed to inflict severe wounds, and the Germans switched to the elongated round nose from concern that their personnel might be mistreated by the Brits if they were captured with the truncated cone ammo in their possession. Hornady developed .45 TC FMJ bullets for the Air Force in the 1970s to boost the stopping power of the old .45 Auto. They feed and shoot well.

[mmesa005]

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc454/mmesa005/Reloading/Cast%20Boolits/20160220_193825.jpg (http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/mmesa005/media/Reloading/Cast%20Boolits/20160220_193825.jpg.html)

Ally my casting equipment arrived yesterday along with my supply of lead from TheCaptain. Had my first go at casting this afternoon using the Lee 6 cavity TL358-158-2R.

[2wheelDuke]

You're off to a decent start. I cast with my dad when I was younger. Since then, I decided to try it on my own several years ago.

I bought my own stuff, but Lee molds instead of his old Lymans. I had horrible results and had to read up more.

I got a taste of success, then it got really addicting. Some might say it borders on hoarding.

It was worth it in 2012 when none of my friends could get ammo but I was still at the range every week.

[mmesa005]

If not for this forum and members sharing information I don't know that I would have even tried casting? I am anxious to say the least to shoot them at the range next week;)

[Lefty Red]

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc454/mmesa005/Reloading/Cast%20Boolits/20160220_193825.jpg (http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/mmesa005/media/Reloading/Cast%20Boolits/20160220_193825.jpg.html)

Ally my casting equipment arrived yesterday along with my supply of lead from TheCaptain. Had my first go at casting this afternoon using the Lee 6 cavity TL358-158-2R.

Looks a lot better than the globs of alloy I first Casted! Congrats!

Jerry

[Lead Fred]

Im a pan luber, yet 2 of may fav molds are tumble ones.

I have never tumbled one. I heat up the X-Lox and dip each one in, and set it on a paper to dry.

Seating them rid the excess, and they seem to work just fine

[mmesa005]

I will have to check out the pan lube method!

Thanks!

[philzilla]

Powder coating is easy and i get no leading so far time will tell

[mmesa005]

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc454/mmesa005/Reloading/Cast%20Boolits/1st%20Tumble%20Lube.jpg

45-45-10 Tumble Lube

Definitely considering powder coating.

[BAGTIC]

If it ain't broke don't fix it. As long as the loaded round will chamber shoot them unsized. Larger bullet diameter will improve bullet pull and ignition with low to moderate charges. No sizer will produce a better fit to your bore than will your own barrel.