Lyman 450 issue

[Gunslinger1911]

Hi gents, I have a problem - duh !
I was switching dies in the 450, and now the die won't go in enough for the threads on the die collar to catch - shy a thou or two, like a blond mustache hair shy. Can't see anything in the cavity, die that was in it won't go either.
Tried warm, cold, tried tapping (lightly!) on the die - nothing.
Collar threads in fine without a die in place.
There's gotta be something in the cavity - but I'll be darned if I can find it !

Any ideas from the masters ?

[s mac]

Many times the nut won't go over the o ring on the die easily, put your nut on the die, press the nut on before placing into the frame. Hope this helps.

[Vann]

I always set my die in with the nut on top and seat it with light pressure from the ram. This makes sure it's all squared up, presses the nut on the die, and helps get the threads started. It may not be the best way but it works.

[avogunner]

Vann describes my procedure too.....works like a charm.

[Ed_Shot]

I always set my die in with the nut on top and seat it with light pressure from the ram. This makes sure it's all squared up, presses the nut on the die, and helps get the threads started. It may not be the best way but it works.

+1, that's the way I do it ..... and in colder weather, like now, I put a drop of 3n1 oil on both the inside and the outside of the nut before I put it on the die so it's easy to feel the threads start correctly.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I assume you have the handle positioned so the "push out rod" isn't interfering with the die ?

[lolbell]

I assume you have the handle positioned so the "push out rod" isn't interfering with the die ?

Thats my thinking also, I have done that a couple of times myself

[Walter Laich]

I know during cold weather it can be like pushing against a concrete block to get them in.

The Perfessor had a tool that really helped get the nut started straight but he seems to be gone now.

Putting it on the "H" part of the die and pushing down worked for me before Keith's tool.

As an almost last resort you could remove and hold the body upside down and hit it with a torch. Melt out the lube

[Char-Gar]

I always set my die in with the nut on top and seat it with light pressure from the ram. This makes sure it's all squared up, presses the nut on the die, and helps get the threads started. It may not be the best way but it works.

Yes, this is the way I do it also. I use an open end wrench to turn the nut with light pressure from the ram on top of the nut. This is a very common issue with this machine.

[Gunslinger1911]

Yup, we're all on the same page. I also put the ring on the die, start it in the sizer, them use the flat of the wrench and ram to start square.
Yup, JonB, I thought of that, I even took it out ! haha
I figure some little sliver fell down in there, I may have to go with Walters idea - upside down, maybe hit it with a brush in the cavity before melting.

Thanks for all the ideas guys, I've been using this Lyman for 30 years - literally tons of lead have gone through it.

[mold maker]

Funny how older things and older folks don't work together like we remember they did. I've noticed lots more of that lately.

[EDG]

Remember what? jajajajaja


Funny how older things and older folks don't work together like we remember they did. I've noticed lots more of that lately.

[Gunslinger1911]

Thanks for all the ideas !
Tried different dies, different lock ring, melted everything out of the die chamber and gave a scrub with a bore brush. Nada.
I finally had to bit the bullet and I took about a thousandth off the bottom of a die I don't use anymore. Did my best to keep the same angles.
Hooks right up like normal, no leaks.

I dunno what happened but I can size / lube again.

[Walter Laich]

glad you got it working. Sometimes tolerances gang up on you and cause these problmes

[GONRA]

GONRA just cranked up my Trusty Lyman 450 (full of pure Alox 2138F) after some decades.
Made a sophisticated upgrade by substituting a nylon tip 10-32 set screw for the "cup point" Lyman supplied waaay back.
This will avoid scaring the "G" top punch shank and making it difficult to remove...

Like Lyman's "pressure screw" and "piston" design better than my son's RCBS unit.
RCBS sent us (free) all the parts we needed (and then some) when his
piston and screw separated a few years ago, so its Just Fine for now...

[tmag97]

What they said

[MT Chambers]

Be careful, it is easy to strip out that threading, leaving you helpless.

[eagle27]

Thanks for all the ideas !
Tried different dies, different lock ring, melted everything out of the die chamber and gave a scrub with a bore brush. Nada.
I finally had to bit the bullet and I took about a thousandth off the bottom of a die I don't use anymore. Did my best to keep the same angles.
Hooks right up like normal, no leaks.

I dunno what happened but I can size / lube again.

The dies actually seat on a taper a bit like an auto engine valve and seat. Taking a thou off the flat bottom off the die will have no effect whatsoever to the seating of the die. Taking a thou off the taper and then finding the die will seat seems strange in that there is 3/16th of an inch of thread on the retaining collar from the thread starting to the collar fully seated. Has someone raised the handle on the sizer when the die was out and driven the push rod up into the die seating area and create a burr. There just has to be something foreign in the tapered seat area of your sizer to prevent the threaded collar from starting considering there is 3/16" of travel once the thread starts to when the die is fully seated home on its tapered seat, not a thou or two.