S&W Model 64 38 Special on the way

[Hick]

My oldest son-- Police officer and part time owner of a gun shop, is sending me a S&W Model 64 in 38 Special (4 inch barrel)-- just as soon as I arrange FFL. He says it is in great condition and should be fun to shoot. Any thoughts from those of you familiar with the Model 64?

[Outpost75]

Model 64 is one of the later production, better K-frame duty guns. If was been inspected and tweaked early in its career, by a factory trained police armorer, you have a good, dependable home defense gun.

[Petrol & Powder]

159758
The Model 64 is a stainless steel, K-frame chambered in 38 Special with fixed sights. It is a great gun and basically a stainless steel version of the model 10. I think they all came with the heavy barrel but I'm not sure. Maybe Outpost can chime in.

They are very solid guns and one of the great workhorses of American handguns.

[Outpost75]

159758
The Model 64 is a stainless steel, K-frame chambered in 38 Special with fixed sights. It is a great gun and basically a stainless steel version of the model 10. I think they all came with the heavy barrel but I'm not sure. Maybe Outpost can chime in.

They are very solid guns and one of the great workhorses of American handguns.

All the Model 64s I have seen were heavy barrel, either 3" or 4" with full length ejector rod. Generally the 3 inchers were round butt and the 4 inchers square butt, but they are found both ways. They also made a factory DAO version with bobbed hammer. I used to have one of those in 4" barrel, round butt with lanyard loop, matte finished with "Fuzzy Ferrant" Secret Service grips. I let it go when I retired.

[Dutch4122]

The Model 64 was produced with the original tapered barrel only during the first couple years of its production. I have one. IIRC there was a post on the S&W Forum stating they were made with the tapered barrel from 1968-1970.


It shoots dead on the fixed sights with anything 158 grains.

[Hick]

Thanks for the great info-- I'll have to go find some 158 grain to load-- don't have any at the moment. As soon as I get it I'll post some pictures for comparison.

[Petrol & Powder]

Hick, if you're a caster, the newer RCBS 38-150-SWC (which tends to drop bullets close to 158 grains) or its near twin the Lyman 358477; are great bullets. There are others but a SWC around 158 grains is a near universal bullet for a K-frame 38 Special.
I hand loaded for decades before getting into casting and there are some good bullet choices out there for hand loaders that don't cast.
I had mixed results with commercial cast bullets and can only tell you that if you don't like the results move on to another brand.

A 4" model 64 has a lot going for it. The stainless steel helps to make them very durable. It will do everything a model 10 will do and rust is less of a concern. They are very accurate revolvers. The fixed sights will not get "out of adjustment" ;-) . They can be loaded for a variety of jobs (target, small game, self defense). A 4" K-frame has enough sight radius that they are easy to hit with but not too long to carry (I don't care for 6" barrels). The gun is plenty strong but no heavier than it needs to be. It really is one of the great "All-Around" handguns.

[ironhead7544]

I use a 3 inch RB Model 64 for a house gun. They are great guns. Mine is from 1982.

[Char-Gar]

The last new Smith and Wesson I bought was a Model 64 in about 2003. I own and have owned many score of Smith and Wesson revolvers and this one is as good as any I have ever owned. It is a 4" HB with the round butt. My shoots to the sights with most loads that approximate factory stuff. I have long ago settled on just three loads in the 38 Special, all with Bullseye powder.

160/Lyman 358311 RN over 3/BE for fun range use and plinking
150 WC or 150-160 SWC over 3.5/BE for loads with better performance on things that have flesh, blood and nerves. The WC is loaded in WC brass.

I think you will like yours. At last count, I had twelve Colt and S & W revolvers in 38 Special. The thought of just having one is to horrible to bear. Without a doubt the 38 Special is my favorite cartridge, followed closely by the 45 ACP.

[FergusonTO35]

The 2-3" 64 is one of the best carry revolvers ever. Apparently alot of folks agree with me as they usually go for over $400.00 on GB, even well worn LE guns.

[dubber123]

I have a 2" round butt version, it has been a great gun for me. Quite accurate, and shoots right to the sights with 158 gr. loads.

[Scharfschuetze]

That was very nice of your son to set you up with a Model 64!

I have a 4" Model 65 from my LEO days. It is the same revolver as the Model 64 other than it is in .357 Magnum. Great revolvers. Mine is now just over 40 years old and still shoots just fine. Fact is, I'm able to type this post thanks to that revolver.

[FergusonTO35]

Anyone else notice that there seems to be a revolver renaissance going on? At my local shop, snubbies are the best selling category of guns. They also sell every GP-100 they can get ahold of. Used revolvers are never under the glass long even if they are priced close to new. Back in the early 2000's it seemed no one wanted revolvers even though the magazine ban was in effect. The busiest shop in Lexington had bunches of name brand wheelguns in nice condition at very good prices. S&W 66's for $250.00, Ruger SP-101's for $225.00 were passed up in favor of bottom feeders and $75.00 pre-ban mags.

[rking22]

Yes, I have noticed that ,, dangit! Days of picking up a pristeen M10 for 125$ (I Did), are past :(

[FergusonTO35]

That's the way it goes. There were also bunches of very nice Marlin and Winchester .30-30's for $200.00 or less. I did score a couple of gems from that time that are still with me. A 1976 Marlin 1894C in honest 98% condition for $250.00 and a 1978 1895 that may have been unfired for $400.00. My best friend bought a Ruger GP-100 stainless with the uncommon 6" half lug barrel for $260.00.

[Thumbcocker]

Got a 1950's vintage Marlin 336 Sc for $230 OTD in those days. It aint for sale.

[FergusonTO35]

Ahh, the good old early 2000's! Wow, I'm an old geezer at 37.:veryconfu

[rking22]

Don't feel bad , I've been one since my 20s :)

OffTopic (even more) ,,,, You use your T035 or is it for shows?? I replaced mine and have been considering a restoration, just for fun.

[MarkP]

You will be pleased with it, I have a few 4" 64's and a 2" M 64. I use a 4" as a house gun and carry one when working on my land. I have wood grip on my 4"ers and rubber on the round butt 2". I purchased my 4" 64's as LE turn-ins about 10 years ago, they were about the same price as the M10s (within $15 or so). The nice thing about a M 64 as compared to a M 10 is that blemishes can easily be repaired with no need to re-blue. The blued finish on M 10 turn-ins were pretty well worn. The finish of 64's were shiny due to holster wear but can easily be corrected by blasting the top rib and brushing the other surfaces. My 2" M 64 came from a pawnshop, it had some concrete rash and rust in various areas. After some work with pattern files, radius nosed punches, and a sandblaster, you can not tell there were any defects.

[slide]

Like the other guys said. Mine shoots dead on as long as I stay with bullets at 158 grains.

[Mumblypeg]

There is not much I can add as what has been said is true. I have several K frame Smith's and The 64 that I have is one of my favorites. I like the Lee 158 grain FN over 3 grains of Win 231 for plinking. It is my carry anywhere, don't have to worry about sights getting beat up, do whatever gun. You will like it and... don't every let it go !

[rking22]

Don't have a 64 but do have a 4 inch HB M10 and it shoots wadcutters over 3.5 of bulles eye to the sights at 20 yards. They are keepers!

[FergusonTO35]

Don't feel bad , I've been one since my 20s :)

OffTopic (even more) ,,,, You use your T035 or is it for shows?? I replaced mine and have been considering a restoration, just for fun.

Mine is a 1955 and it runs like new. The previous owner applied the later red and gray paint and Massey Ferguson 35 decals so it's not really show worthy. The correct scheme is gray sheetmetal, dark green castings, and metal Harry Ferguson name plates. I use it for mowing, pushing snow, and blading the driveway. The only problem it has is the 3 point lift sinks when you press the clutch. Probably needs the lift cylinder resealed.

Harry Ferguson and Massey Ferguson tractors and machinery have always been part of my life. When I was a wee lad we had a TO-30. My grandfather bought an MF-165 new in the early 70's, I spent alot of my youth cutting and baling hay with it. My sister and her husband have the 165 now and still use it alot.

[rking22]

Thanks for the reply, seems lots of us in this hobby also enjoy many varied things from times past. Like the old fixed sight SW revolvers, a good tractor still works just like it was designed to. Just not as "flashy" an no plastic :)

[Sam Casey]

Just put 50 Dardas 148g WC's over 3g Win 231 thru my Detroit PD Marked M64 this afternoon with friends at LGC.

[taco650]

I'm really happy with the 64-3 I picked up last year. Don't like the Houge grips that came with it but I'll change those eventually.

[Hick]

It finally arrived today: Model 64, 4" barrel, 38 Special + P
160338

[Scharfschuetze]

Looks nice! Bet you can't wait to get to the range.

[Petrol & Powder]

That's a fairly new model 64. It might even have the two piece barrel, I can't tell from the photo.

[FergusonTO35]

Yep, thats a late model all right. Has the new style latch thumbpiece and stupid frame lock. As far as I know the .38 Special K frames do not use the two piece barrel.

[Petrol & Powder]

The new model 64's do have a two piece barrel. Not sure if the one pictured does.

[Hick]

It's a 2001 or later model. According to the owners manual that came with it S&W added the internal hammer lock in 2001/2002-- and this has it. Don't know about the barrel (I'm new to S&W and don't know how to identify a two-piece barrel).

[Petrol & Powder]

If it is a dash 8 it has a two piece barrel. Look at the frame under the crane with the cylinder open and you will see the model number followed by a "dash" and another number. 64-8 (model 64 "dash" 8). The dash numbers denote design changes.

The two piece barrel has a barrel shroud and a barrel. Traditionalist do not like them but there's nothing wrong with the two piece barrel.

[Petrol & Powder]

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_fi3crx-lEyk/S_56x8-09FI/AAAAAAAAAOs/kmOlOZLLfyQ/s1600/Muzzleoftwopiecebarrel.jpgtwo piece barrel from the muzzle.

Photo lifted from internet

[A pause for the COZ]

I picked up a 64 this last year. Its turned into my main tromping around the home stead gun. Ether in a tanker holster or a belt holster. I keep it loaded with 3 125gr jhp's and 3 CCI shot loads.
The Stainless steel means you dont have to worry about scuffing it. You can buff them right back into shape.
I also found the trigger on mine is excellent even by Smith & Wesson standards.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_9859_zpstyixsnax.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_9923_zps9pkgqdxq.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_9964_zps9lvd1prp.jpg

[imashooter2]

Fine, solid, no frills guns. I love them, but the silver blade in a silver notch of my M64 were near impossible for me. I fixed it with Chevy engine orange on the front and flat black for the rear notch.

http://imashooter2.com/pictures/64sights.jpg

[FergusonTO35]

P&P, I did not know the .38's had two piece barrels now. I thought that was a fix for cracked forcing cones on .357's. Seems to me like it would be an unnecessary complication on the .38's.

[Petrol & Powder]

https://www.gunsamerica.com/UserImages/87270/941684956/wm_6429388.jpgAnother image stolen off the internet. This is the barrel that is inside of the barrel shroud. The shroud has the front sight, front lug and all of the markings on it.

It's sort of like the set up in a Dan Wesson but instead of a barrel nut the muzzle end of the barrel tightens up on the shroud. S&W uses a tool that engages the rifling inside the barrel that acts as the "wrench" when they assemble the barrel and shroud to the frame. The barrel is held in tension between the frame and the shroud. It is probably done to save time during assembly but that's a guess on my part.

[taco650]

https://www.gunsamerica.com/UserImages/87270/941684956/wm_6429388.jpgAnother image stolen off the internet. This is the barrel that is inside of the barrel shroud. The shroud has the front sight, front lug and all of the markings on it.

It's sort of like the set up in a Dan Wesson but instead of a barrel nut the muzzle end of the barrel tightens up on the shroud. S&W uses a tool that engages the rifling inside the barrel that acts as the "wrench" when they assemble the barrel and shroud to the frame. The barrel is held in tension between the frame and the shroud. It is probably done to save time during assembly but that's a guess on my part.


It also makes the barrel a little more ridged but that may be a secondary consideration.

[Scharfschuetze]

Here's my Model 65 (no dash) that I bought in 1977 while an LEO. It's been a reliable and accurate handgun and has served well. Now days it generally just gets fed 38 Specials so it might as well be a Model 64.

[Gofaaast]

I like your sight improvements IAS2. I planned to just paint the front ramp of my 64, but I think your style looks great, and performs excellent compared to plain factory sights.

[imashooter2]

I like your sight improvements IAS2. I planned to just paint the front ramp of my 64, but I think your style looks great, and performs excellent compared to plain factory sights.

Thanks! It made a huge difference in the shootability of the gun. I did it with just plain old rattle cans and masking tape and it's been surprisingly durable. Maybe because the blade is protected by the holster and the flat black is all in recessed areas.

[taco650]

Fine, solid, no frills guns. I love them, but the silver blade in a silver notch of my M64 were near impossible for me. I fixed it with Chevy engine orange on the front and flat black for the rear notch.

http://imashooter2.com/pictures/64sights.jpg

That looks good. I painted my front sight with white out thinking it would help but it didn't. Think I'll be copying yours ;-)

[Petrol & Powder]

The area is so small I never thought about using spray paint and masking it off. That's a good idea, I might give that a try.

[Scharfschuetze]

I always wondered why S&W didn't use a blued steel front sight on their stainless steel revolvers. That SS in bright light is just about unusable.

After buying my Model 65, the first thing that I did was to file out a notch in the front sight and use a yellow epoxy to fill it in and then file it to seamlessly mate up with the front sight. I use a flat black paint (Testor's modeling paint) to blacken the rear sight. This gives me a very usable sight picture, although in hind sight, I probably should have used black dyed epoxy as I prefer plain black sights.

By the way, if your are just shooting at the range, you can use kitchen matches to blacken the sights or you can use a carbide miner's lamp or purpose made carbide sight blackener.

Here are a few photos showing my solution to the shiny sight problem with stainless.

[725]

Either a mod 10 or mod 64 was my issue for decades. Utterly superb revolvers. The only thing they ask after extensive shooting is to shoot some more.

[Petrol & Powder]

I've used a black sharpie to darken the sights and it works in a pinch but is still a bit glossy. It lasts long enough to make it through a range session. I've also used the carbide lamp trick or a kitchen match which makes really flat black sights but again it is only a short term fix. I've painted the front sights black on a few S&W stainless guns but never thought about masking off the rear sight and painting it. I'm going to try that.
My Ruger Service-Six's have blued steel front sights that are pinned to the front rib. Seems like a better solution. Not only are they more visible in bright light but they are replacable if damaged.
I can cope with the stainless on stainless issue in most conditions but really bright sunlight can be a problem.

[imashooter2]

S&W went to pinned on blue sights on a lot of guns in later production, but I can't recall seeing a 64 that didn't have the integral stainless front.

[taco650]

I always wondered why S&W didn't use a blued steel front sight on their stainless steel revolvers. That SS in bright light is just about unusable.

After buying my Model 65, the first thing that I did was to file out a notch in the front sight and use a yellow epoxy to fill it in and then file it to seamlessly mate up with the front sight. I use a flat black paint (Testor's modeling paint) to blacken the rear sight. This gives me a very usable sight picture, although in hind sight, I probably should have used black dyed epoxy as I prefer plain black sights.

By the way, if your are just shooting at the range, you can use kitchen matches to blacken the sights or you can use a carbide miner's lamp or purpose made carbide sight blackener.

Here are a few photos showing my solution to the shiny sight problem with stainless.

Nice grips, what are they?

[Scharfschuetze]

Nice grips, what are they?

You would have to ask! I really can't remember, but they were from one of the mail order stores. They are a great improvement over the Pachmyer grips that I had on it before. They attach with a single screw through the base of the grip.

[imashooter2]

They look like Hogue round to square conversions.

http://www.hogueinc.com/grips/S&W/kframe/roundbutt/conversion

[Andyd]

Over the years I have picked u a few S&W classic service revolvers, the last three 64s were bought a little over a year ago for $216 each shipped. Just they were no present for Dad but two were presents for my sons and one stayed with me.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z159/Andyd173/imagejpg1_zps448814e7.jpg

[Virginian]

Looks like a great addition to your collection. Congrats!