Choosing the right stock configuration for a Remington Rolling block

[corbinace]

Greetings,

I just got a rifle with a broken stock. I would like to shoot it out to 600 yards. Is there any reason not to put a high comb stock and install a nice recoil pad? I got the gun to shoot, not to sell. While pretty guns have an appeal to me, pretty targets count for more and are only accomplished with rounds down range.

What about LOP? My repeating rifles are all 12". Yes that is short, but...I am of small stature and can operate the bolt or lever with the rifle never leaving my shoulder very rapidly. This rifle is a 180 degree departure form those rifles. Any LOP suggestions and reasoning.

Some background;

The #1 Remington Rolling Block has a 26 inch, 1-1/8" octagon barrel with a tang mount sight.
Chambered in 45-70.
Rifle came to me with a broken stock from shipping, so I have not been able to fire it to try the original configuration.

I think that I will end up shooting something like a 535gr postell bullet.
This will need a good bit of elevation at 600 yards, the reason for the raised comb.
The heavy bullet will likely have a good bit of recoil in a <11 pound rifle. I am old enough to have lost any appreciation of recoil, so a pad sounds good to me.

The original broken stock has a pretty brass butt plate and looks very nice on the rifle but I want to have fun shooting it. Since I have to make a new stock, I thought I may as well make it fit the mission.

Are there any stock makers that you would steer clear of?

This is my first large rolling block and I am ready to soak up the wisdom from those of you that have been there done that.

Thanks, Tim.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

I have an Egyptian roller that someone redid using a kit that was once sold by Numerich (now The Gun Parts Corp in W. Hurley N.Y.) It has an enormous half round half octagon barrel and a decent stock. It is possible that they still stock/sell the stocks for the rollers. You might want to contact them and see if they have anything that would fit/meet your needs. LLS

[country gent]

What are you looking for in shape style? Also if the match is a sanctioned mach you need to check the rules as some can be pretty strict as to form some pretty lax. A piece of plain standard walnut with a mild cheek rest and or cheek piece at your desired length of pull and properly finished. I would also recomend replaceing the forearm with a set so the wood matches closer, a oil sweat stained aged forend with a clean freshly finished stock is going to stand out. Another nice option for the rollers since they arnt normally offered with a pistol grip in a bold on one. of ebony or matching wood. Alot of options here, and some thought is required. If your doing the work yourself you can fit the stock to your build and position. Get an idea of 100 yd 200yd as far out as you will want to shoot and with sight or scope set the diffrent zeros and fit the cheek piece to what feels right.

[country gent]

Another though if the stock is a fairly clean break you might be able to temporarly repair it to see how it does fit and feel. A hardwwood dowel drill in to so pieces and glued with a good wood glue and clamped in position to cure. would give a idea here. Just an Idea

[JHeath]

That might be a rifle you'd shoot more off the arm, with your body at nearer 90deg to the target. Like schuetzen rifles with those long hooked buttplates. This helps draw in the cantilever of a long heavy barrel. If you shoot your 12" LOP rifles with your shoulders more square to the target (more shotgun style) the needed LOP might be different.

[stubbicatt]

I've heard it said for an offhand rifle, an easy way to determine a good starting point for LOP is to rest the buttplate in the crotch of the elbow of the strong hand, and reach for the trigger with the trigger finger. It should touch the midpoint of the pad on the last joint.

Of course if you wear jackets, or t-shirts etc that will change the length of pull somewhat.

[marlinman93]

I'm not a fan of stocks with recoil pads on old style singles. But the original Remington stocks for #1 Sporters are tough on my shoulder. They aren't a crescent like Winchester or Ballard, but they are smaller in both width and height, and even with a heavy 34" full octagon barrel, my original Roller in .44-77SBN punishes my shoulder if I don't use my PAST recoil pad.
On Rolling Blocks or Hepburns I have rebuilt, I stock them in a larger stock that uses the checkered steel Sharps style shotgun buttplate. This buttplate is larger, and flatter, so it distributes recoil nicely, and even heavy loads don't hurt my shoulder.
This is the same buttplate on my 18885 Win. center, and Hepburn on the right:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy/dlxwood1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/marlinguy/media/dlxwood1.jpg.html)

The Hepburn with Crossno silhouette pattern, and Sharps buttplate:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy/hepscp1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/marlinguy/media/hepscp1.jpg.html)

[JHeath]

I'm not a fan of stocks with recoil pads on old style singles. But the original Remington stocks for #1 Sporters are tough on my shoulder. They aren't a crescent like Winchester or Ballard, but they are smaller in both width and height, and even with a heavy 34" full octagon barrel, my original Roller in .44-77SBN punishes my shoulder if I don't use my PAST recoil pad.
On Rolling Blocks or Hepburns I have rebuilt, I stock them in a larger stock that uses the checkered steel Sharps style shotgun buttplate. This buttplate is larger, and flatter, so it distributes recoil nicely, and even heavy loads don't hurt my shoulder.
This is the same buttplate on my 18885 Win. center, and Hepburn on the right:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy/dlxwood1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/marlinguy/media/dlxwood1.jpg.html)

The Hepburn with Crossno silhouette pattern, and Sharps buttplate:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy/hepscp1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/marlinguy/media/hepscp1.jpg.html)
Do you shoot off the shoulder, or arm? How about with that schuetzen hooked plate?

[corbinace]

You guys are just so mean!!!

Here I was, floating blissfully along in my ignorance, posting what I thought was a somewhat informed question and Wham...You post all this information showing how ignorant I really am. I do not know how much more my ego can take.

Seriously though, thank you for your comments. I am learning a good deal about rifle to shooter interface, both here and in archived posts. Always before, I shot what came along and if it was too long or hard I cut it off and fixed it.

I just hope I do not get seized up with information overload and not be able to make a decision. That issue for me is, unfortunately not written in purple. Yes issues, we all have 'em.

[corbinace]

I had not considered the sanctioning aspect because there are not BPCR matches that I know of in this area. I will check on the rule book as I would welcome the chance if I ever got to participate in them.

The stock MAY be able to be cobbled back together for fitting purposes and maybe a couple light shots but the break is not very conducive to repair as there are lots of smaller pieces that are not attached.

I think the way I currently shoot other rifles would be off the shoulder. I am in the process of learning about the different styles.

I did notice the small dimensions of the current butt plate. That was what originally got me to thinking of the possibilities of going with something less abusive.

Thank you for the guidance, now I'm off to earn a paycheck, Tim.