Question for ladle casters

[Ole Joe Clarke]

Back in the day when I was young and in my prime, using a bottom pour, I used a ball nosed end mill and milled a slot between the cavities on the sprue plate for my double cavity molds. So, instead of a countersunk hole for each cavity to pour melted lead through, I have the slot connecting the holes.

I think this is part of my problem preventing me from getting consistent quality when I used a ladle. Do any of you ladle casters have the holes on the sprue plate "connected."

Thanks,

Leon

[gwpercle]

No, I use the little side spout on the Lyman ladle to press it against the hole , then turn both mould and ladle upright, I think this is referred to as pressure casting, I do it for each cavity.
Grinding a trough or slot between the sprue holes wouldn't allow the pressure cast technique.
I have tried bottom pouring, but I get better boolits with the pressure cast technique. I want quality above all else.

[atr]

gwpercle has it right....
but I might add that sometimes the rate at which the mold+ladle are turned upright will affect the casting
atr

[Dan Cash]

I have thought about getting a mould with such a sprue plate but my technique seems to work without it. I use a 1/2 cup soup ladle into which I have hammered an appropriate spout. I flood the sprue holes one at a time with plenty of overflow to warm the mould/keep the mould warm. Simple and works for me. 200 .45 bullets weigh 532 to 534 grains. I quit weighing bullets.

[longbow]

I use an old plumber's ladle that holds about 2 lbs. of molten lead. I used needle files to notch the two pouring spouts to get smaller streams when pouring.

Some moulds seem to produce rounded bases I think due to lack of pressure of the open lead stream.

Loosening the sprue plate generally solves this issue. I like the sprue plate to almost swing free.

Also, with some moulds what I have found to help is to take a very fine small file (jeweler's files) or diamond sharpening stone and take just the very corner of the top edge of the mould blocks off where the mould blocks meet under the sprue plate. This forms a very small "V" that vents trapped air.

I am only talking about making a small beveled edge of a few thou.

So, try loosening off the sprue plate if it is tight and that may do it. If not try a very small bevel on that top edge.

It works for me.

Longbow

[country gent]

I ladle cast from 40 cal 400 up to 45 cal 550grn bullets Soon to add 38 360 grn. I have my 2 cavity moluld connected with a trough between them. All my moulds have a trough running off the front edge also. The trough conecting cavities is slightly deeper than the one running off. I dont pour for a sprue but pour a full ladle into mould letting excess run of and back into pot. This keeps the base and bullet hot and molten longer along with allowing more time for air to escape and off gassing. It also produces a very consistant sprue on the mould cavites. When I went to this casting technique I noticed right away that the sprue shows almost no shrinkage when cooling. My bullets from a session look very good bases are very good and weight is with in 1 grn normally. You didnt give what temp your running at, ladle you are using, bullet weight and style ? A good ladle I use the RCBS with the spout opened up to .205-.210 dia hole for better pour. I run 700*-725* with 20-1 alloy. Heat mould and run at a pace to keep mould hot but not to hot. When idle ( waiting for sprue to cool dropping bullets) keep ladle in the pot under the surface of the lead. This keeps the ladle much hotter and helps alloy flow easier. Al;so some moulds like a pressure pour with the ladle in the mould and tipped up together some like being at a slight angle when pouring, some like the alloy to "swirl" thru the sprue plate into the mould, some like a straight fast pour thru the sprue. It may take some experimentation to find out.