Who's the 32-20 expert?

[three50seven]

For whatever reason, I have an overwhelming desire to acquire a S&W chambered in 32-20, and possibly a rifle of some sort to accompany it. I have loaded .32 S&W and .32 Mag, but have never shot or loaded for the .32-20. I understand the slightly tapered case may be a pain to deal with, but I don't mind. Looks like brass should be available without any problem, and there are plenty of commercially cast boolits as well as molds available. So, what else do I need to know? Any big speed bumps I should be aware of?

[pworley1]

Go for it. I have not had any trouble with loading 32 20 or 25 20. There is plenty of load data on castpics. My only advice is to use a light touch with your press. Enjoy!

[StrawHat]

Not me, but I have two S&W M&P models that I enjoy. One is a 5" barrel and the other is 6 1/2". I do not have a rifle to pair with them, well, I do, but not chambered for the 32 WCF.

Kevin

[LabGuy]

Enjoy the ride!

[Bent Ramrod]

About the only "drawback" in reloading is the unavailability of carbide dies for the slightly bottlenecked .32-20 case. But applying and removing case lube a pretty minor consideration, IMHO.

Some of the brass of a certain vintage was shorter than the standard length, and often each box of cases was slightly different in length from others. This was annoying in that the crimp die had to be adjusted for each batch of cases, or all the cases trimmed to the shortest length, to get consistent crimps. This condition was common in the old days when the cartridge was "obsolete" and the manufacturers of the last batches of them weren't overly concerned about such trifling details. Now that the cartridge has enjoyed a renaissance, this might be a nonissue; Starline seems to hold the lengths of the cases I've bought from them to very tight standards. I don't know about their .32-20's; I'm still using the old cases I scrounged and hoarded way back when.

[ndnchf]

I'm no expert, but I got the 32-20 bug last year. I bought a Marlin M1889 and a #2 Remington rolling block, both in 32-20. I greatly enjoy loading this cartridge and shooting both rifles. I have no trouble reloading it at all. But I've been reloading 44-40s for over 30 years too. I've never had problems loading those either. Get a Lyman 311008 mold and you will be all set.

[three50seven]

Thanks for the info everyone, Now I just have to collect the components and find a gun!

[MarkP]

If you are patient you can find the S&W M&P's in decent condition for not a whole lot of $. I bought a nicer condition Nickel M&P for mid $400's.

[three50seven]

If you are patient you can find the S&W M&P's in decent condition for not a whole lot of $. I bought a nicer condition Nickel M&P for mid $400's.
I have been poking around online, and they seem to bring a little less than other S&W revolvers of that era.

[Scharfschuetze]

If you end up with that S&W and it is an older Hand Ejector, loading for it will completely different than loading for the Marlin. I load for both, but the Hand Ejector is treated as a fairly weak weapon that does not have the steel or the hardening of same to safely handle Marlin 1894 loads.

I generally just use 115 grain plain base boolits in the Hand Ejector with great accuracy when loaded over any of the faster pistol powders. Velocity generally is a stately 800 fps or so.

In the Marlin Rifle, PB 115 grain boolits hold up well and shoot accurately at moderate velocites, but to take full advantage of the Marlin's capabilities, a gas check 115 grain boolit is probably your best choice. I use the NOE 311-115-FN with good success.

Starline brass holds up the best compared to Remington and Winchester cases. I generally neck size with a Redding necksize die and that seems to extend case life somewhat in both the rifle and the revolver. Obviously this can only be done for a few rounds per case depending on the pressure level you are working at.

Here's my Hand Ejector and 1894CS (top rifle), both in 32/20.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

159489Two more .32-20s for consideration.

DG

[Dan Cash]

I too got bitten when I started loading for a friend's 92 Win. Got my own Marlin 94 and started hunting for a suitable six gun. The Marlin and Winchester did well with 9 to 9.5 grain 2400 under the Accurate .32-20 bullet which drops at 105 gr. for me.

I wanted a hand gun that would handle ammo interchangeably with the rifle and was not interested in pip squeak loads. The S&Ws one finds are usually rather early Hand Ejector models that lack in the heat treat department. I found a Colt Army Special in .32-20 in decent shape in the mid $400 range and set to work. The Army Special and follow on Official Police Colt are more robust than the S&W Hand Ejector models and much more so than the Colt Police Positive Specials.

For this revolver and for a subsequently purchased Uberty SA, the bullets have to be sized to .311 or they won't chamber The Marlin and Win will use .314 to good effect. My powder is still 2400 though Unique or Accuirate #5 will probably work too. My charge is 8.8 grains of 2400 under the 105 grain bullet cast soft and ignited with Remington small rifle primers. The rifle primer gives less velocity variation. The 8.8 grain load gives average 1300 fps from the 5 1/2 in revolvers and 1600 from the Marlin carbine. It is easy on brass and reasonably accurate with no leading. The bullet makes a terrible wound in coons and porcupines.

As stated by others, you need to use a gentle hand when loading the brass (Starline) as it is a little fragile but reasonable care results in few failures. Lolading at this level does not stretch the brass in my guns. I have tried heavier loads in the rifle but brass life was second loading failures and no real improvement in performance. After a thousand rounds of these 8.8 grain loads through the Army Special, the gun shows no sign of endshake or other loosening. Your milage may vary.

Forgive any typos, I am getting tired.

[.22-10-45]

I'm loading for a circa 1903 7 1/2" Bisley Colt in .32WCF. If you are shooting cast..may I suggest you purchase the RCBS Cowboy die set..expander is a bit larger dia. for lead. No real problem not having carbide..probably a plus really, as carbide dies tend to size case to min. dimensions & you just have to re-expand back up for lead. Actually, I only size neck as far down as bullet base so very little..like every 3 cases need lube. I use the Lee Factory crimp die for very light crimp as loads are light Bullseye or Tightgroup out of respect for guns age. I never thought I would ever own a 32WCF. due to hearing of finicky accuracy and loading problems..but this little case is fast becoming my favorite one..accuracy is just amazing from this antique. Best of luck with your search!

[clum553946]

I like the old lever cartridges & the 32-20 is one of my favorites. I have a Winchester 1892 & a 1873. To me there's nothing quite like the looks of an old levergun with an octagon barrel! As far as loading, just take your time, it's no more challenging than loading any other cartridge. I like Unique & just backed in to some Trailboss that I might try as well. I like 115gr lfp bullets & I don't push them very hard. Beats the heck out of shooting a 22 lr any day of the week! I bought a Noe 314-115-FN on the Dec sale they had & am going to try it out when I use up all of my existing Silver State bullets.

[three50seven]

Thanks for all the great information everyone. This once again proves that this site is a wealth of information on anything and everything related to casting and reloading. It is obvious that some of you have brought the 32-20 into the modern era with great success, pushing it past what I really expected it could do. I will be happy keeping my loads under 1000fps as I really just want something unique to play with on the range and bum around in the woods with. I load a lot of Titegroup and Trailboss, so that is probably what I will start with for now.

[bedbugbilly]

three50seven - I'm like you . . . . I got the 32-20 "bug" quite a while ago and have accumulated brass, dies, molds, etc. . . . but as of yet, nothing to shoot them in. I have looked at some S & W M & Ps and a couple of Colt Army Specials but what I have run across are either well worn or the seller wanted more than they were worth. Now I'm considering a Uberti Cattleman in 32-20 - Taylor shows them as part of their line. I think the 32 WCF is just a neat historical cartridge that would be loads of fun. Good luck with your endeavor and have fun!

[MarkP]

One of the few guns I have sold was a Pinch frame in 32-20 (reproduction of course) neat revolver but poor quality, The POI was 12" to the left and 8" low at 50 ft. Friend & I ordered them at the same time the bluing on his was wearing off after a single shooting session. Ordered these in about 1994 or so.

[Dan Cash]

Now I'm considering a Uberti Cattleman in 32-20 - Taylor shows them as part of their line. I think the 32 WCF is just a neat historical cartridge that would be loads of fun. Good luck with your endeavor and have fun!

I bought a Cimarron Uberti from Buffalo Arms and am very pleased with it. It is what they call charcoal blued and the finish is supposedlly fragile. Mine gets a LOT of use and the finish is holding up extremly well. I don't use a lot of aggressive cleaners which may be the secret.

[nicholst55]

Make certain that you are using load data intended for revolvers, not rifles or TC Contenders. Many of the old Colts and Smiths in this chambering lack the hardening performed on later revolvers, and their frames can be stretched and 'shot loose' pretty easily. Rifle ammo is loaded to significantly higher pressure than revolver ammo in this chambering.

Also, examine the bore of your revolver carefully for bulges. It isn't uncommon to find old .32 WCF revolvers with bulged bores from firing them with a bullet lodged in the bore. Also, pitted bores are common, from firing black powder ammo and neglecting proper/punctual cleaning.

Lastly, you MUST listen to the song written about the cartridge, The .32-20 Blues!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0H_5PSNokk

[Bigslug]

Voice of Moderation perhaps. . .I really, REALLY like my Martini Cadet that is chambered in what I alternatively call the ".32-20 Actual" or the ".32-20 Kinda-Sorta" which you can read all about in Hooker53's "More Cadet Talk" thread in the Single Shot Guns section. It's a true hoot to shoot, and I'd be lying if I said that a close encounter with a clean '85 Low Wall in .32-20 wouldn't be SORELY tempting.

But I don't really think that it does ANYTHING that you couldn't do with a much less logistically challenging .357 Magnum. My Dad's got a sleeved Ballard chambered in the .38 Long Colt that is equally fun with a straightwall case and a common-as-dirt .358" bullet. The main appeal to my little Martini is the Martini itself - not the round.

[StrawHat]

Several posters have alluded to heat treating. On the S&W M&P chambered for the 32 WCF or 32-20, heat treating began around 1919 at serial number 81287. Any S&W higher than that will have a heat treated cylinder.

Kevin

[Idaho Mule]

Be very careful, the 32-20 can be addicting. In this household we have Winchester '92, Marlin 1894, Colt SAA, S&W 1905, plus a couple of Ruger Buck-Eye's. They all seem to like boolits .001 or .002 off from each other (except the Rugers like same size) for best accuracy. Cheaper to shoot than 22 rimfires and funner in my opinion. Use your head when loading, don't overload the oldies and you will have lots of fun. Don't forget the old Savage 23 either. It is a light bolt action sporter, perfect little packing around gun and very accurate if you find one in good shape. JW

[50target]

You might say I have the 32-20 addiction. Started out with an 1889 Marlin, then a Remington Model 25, and recently a John Taylor & Co. Uberti Low Wall for the warm to very warm loads. Been an S&W guy for 50 years and the only one to drive me absolutely crazy were the M&P's in 32-20. Never could get the accuracy out of them I should have, Reloader for 50 years and couldn't get a handle on it. Traded'em all off. Then I got an S&W Target in 32-20 and that one has proven to be a very nice shooter. In handguns remember that "it is what it is" and don't hot rod it in the old Smith's and Colt's. Take your time reloading it. Careful in belling and seating. Most commercial cast bullets work well. Can usually find them in whatever diameter you need. Rifles can go a little warmer if a 92 Winnie or Marlin, not so much in the Rem. model 25. I also shoot the 25-20 and like it a lot. Trying to find a used Uberti LW in 32-20 to rebarrel. That one is a lot of fun. Remember to take your time, learn the quirks and you'll be fine as long as you respect the age of the gun and the limitations of the cartridge. I could do everything I do in 25-20 and 32-20 with a 357 mag rifle. But it ain't the same. Shooting those old vintage guns is a joy unto itself. Enjoy.
Bob

[smkummer]

Just got into the 32-20 crowd. 1922 police positive special with a 5" barrel. 115 Lyman and 4.5 unique gets it into the 950 FPS range. Feels like a standard 38 special in power. Easy to load but you have to slightly lube the cases and fits into loading blocks like a 38 special unlike 32 S&W long that starts getting tiny.

[sharps4590]

Evidently the old 32-20 has become a somewhat hot item? I'm glad to see that! I bought my first one in '83 or '84 and as with all you guys fell in love with the little cartridge. As with a lot of you my "herd" grew to 4 firearms, two SA's, one a first gen. Colt and the other an EMF clone, an Army Special and a '92. Can't add a thing to what's been said, it all matches my experience.

[FromTheWoods]

To enjoy shooting that snappy little caliber, choose an original 1892 Winchester and a Ruger Buckeye Convertible. The '92 will handle "medium" classed loads which will have a bit of zip and will shoot with dandy accuracy. (An 1873 Winchester needs a more tame load--weaker internal parts.) The Buckeye will take any load you can put in your '92 and will be accurate also. You can shoot one load in both your guns, and hit everything you aim at. Hard to beat.

Also, I've been loading the .32 WCF .25-20, and .38-40 for a many years, and do not understand the "difficult to load" rumors. Just center the cases in your press as you do with any other cases, and enjoy the reloading session.

Buy both guns before the end of Spring! Summer will be much nicer if you do.

[avogunner]

I recently fell into a 32 WCF Winchester loading tool so that has me now searching for a gun that shoots that caliber (that's how it works right?). I see some here recommend the Lyman mold...does anyone use the old Winchester mold?

[ndnchf]

Check out this post. I have both the Lyman and Winchester molds. There is a photo of both bullets side by side.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?293495-32-Cal-lever-action-mould-help-gearing-up-for-2016&p=3458082#post3458082

[three50seven]

Went to one of my favorite local shows yesterday. I saw a few Marlins and Winchesters in 32-20, but nothing in my price range. One Spanish copy of a S&W in 32-20, but that was the only handgun I saw. I ended up buying a LNIB Ruger Flattop in .44spl for $400 otd, so I can't complain!

[TXGunNut]

My Navy Arms 1873 revolver is like the Uberti mentioned above, very tight cylinder and requires a different sized boolit than my rifles. I use the NOE 314008 for BP loads and a Lee TL 98 gr boolit for smokeless plinker loads. Both of my 92's have badly pitted bores so they will be getting liners soon. I really enjoy the 32WCF but I'm by no means an expert.

[gandydancer]

I have had a few 32-20's in my day. I sold or traded them over the years. and early last year I picked up a custom ruger #3 in 32-20 with a shilen barrel on it I shot it at 50 yards with winchester factory loads and was not impressed with the accuracy at all. cleaned it and put it away. until today other factors figure in. surgery. therapy ??? learning to walk again(Badly" but walking. getting every thing together to reload for it. "surprise" its not a 32-20 at all. its a 30/20 yes a 308 I understand 32/20 TC barrels were also 30/20 I am going to have to rethink this game over before I start reloading for it. just my luck to buy one thing and end up with someones else's bad dream.

[Scharfschuetze]

Gandy,

I think that you'll have fun with that "30/20." I think that the number of 30 calibre boolit designs for .308 barrels should give you lots of options. Use M1 Carbine designs or just size your 32/20 cast boolits down to .310/.311 or so and you should be good to go. As it's a single shot, you won't have to worry too much about crimp grooves so even light 308 jacketed bullets will be easy to use.

You may have to play with your expanding plug's diameter to provide a tighter neck pull, but that should not create any real problems. On the other hand, you can just adjust your overall length so that the boolit is touching the rifling and not worry about it.

By the way, I hope that your recovery goes well and that you are back to walking well soon.

[typz2slo]

I got an old 1894 32-20 made in 1913 going and loaded my first box of ammo for it. I took it easy and didnt mess up any brass. Lubed with Hornady One Shot lube and loaded on a single stage press. I had to be careful because for now all I have is 50 brass. Its a ton of fun making noise with a 100+ year old gun.

[leftiye]

As for the 30-20, the chances are that your 32-20 sizer overdoes it and that all you need to do is use a 30 caliber expander die. Being that it is a single shot, all the bullet grip you need is enough to keep the boolit where you want it. Probly loose enough to chamber the round too long and have the rifling push it back to exact length. Boolit grip is a variable best done away with in this case. If light enough it becomes very consistent.

[FromTheWoods]

I got an old 1894 32-20 made in 1913 going and loaded my first box of ammo for it. I took it easy and didnt mess up any brass. Lubed with Hornady One Shot lube and loaded on a single stage press. I had to be careful because for now all I have is 50 brass. Its a ton of fun making noise with a 100+ year old gun.

Typz--Did you mean an 1892? If you have a Winchester .32 WCF it is a '73 or a '92. If it is a Winchester 1894, it would be a .32-40 or a .32 WS. --Unless it is a non-Winchester, then I would not know what I am talking about.

Any way it is looked at, shooting those old rifles is a dandy way to spend a day! Enjoy.

[typz2slo]

I stand corrected. I fat fingered the model. Its a 1892 32 WCF. Once I got that straight and put in the right serial number it comes back to be made in 1908. Thanks for the correction. Now its even more fun making noise with something thats 108 years old.


Typz--Did you mean an 1892? If you have a Winchester .32 WCF it is a '73 or a '92. If it is a Winchester 1894, it would be a .32-40 or a .32 WS. --Unless it is a non-Winchester, then I would not know what I am talking about.

Any way it is looked at, shooting those old rifles is a dandy way to spend a day! Enjoy.

[dave524]

Years ago I played with a Contender in .32-20 for Hunter Class Metallic Silhouette, yeah the ones with the .308 bore. Redding at that time made dies labelled 32-20 TC which had the correct sized expander . Just saying for those who have this variation.