Handles

[Chris C]

I am just starting casting. Accumulating all the equipment pieces needed. I actually sat down today to cast my first bullets. Right off I had a problem with the molds going back together close enough to align on the pins unless I tilted the handles straight down to the ground. Is that normal? I'm using Buffalo Arms handles. http://www.buffaloarms.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=159278&TERM=saeco%20handles The molds move around enough when the handles are open that when I go to close it, the pins don't line up.

[KenT7021]

What brand of molds?I normally use the same brand of handles as the molds.

[Walter Laich]

What brand of molds?I normally use the same brand of handles as the molds.
+1
there are a few custom handle makers but either the mold maker will have his own handles or recommend a type to use.

We'll need the size of your molds, too: single cavity, 2-cav, 6-cav. this will also determine which handles to use

[country gent]

Those are normally good handles I have several sets of them. How do the mould blocks fit on them? very loose or snug? One thing I have taken to doing when closing my moulds is Sitting them on a flat surface to some what pre alighn them. I use the front rolled edge of the paint roller tray I use to drop bullet into. The blocks should fit some waht loose with little to no wobble up or down. If to snug they may not "float: enough if to loose they may be movingm to much. If to tight then handles or blocks need to be modified ( a little material removed to give some clearence). Easier if to loose then a set of shims can be made to fit between blocks and tops of handles to take up some room. I have considered modifying a set of handles with set of plunger springs front and back of mount hole to tension blocks lightly on each side but havent tried it yet. I have found the flat edge helps alot with pre alighning the blocks when closing. The rolled edge of the paint roller tray. or a piece of angle iron 1/2 X 1/2 X 3"-6" set edge up also will work nicely. Its quick and easy ( second nature ounce you get used to it) and saves wear on the alighnment pins and sockets. Look things over and see what you have and where the issues are. If bullets are sticking in blocks a lot of tapping may be moving the blocks more than is necesary making realainment harder.

[big bore 99]

Maybe try loosening the handles, then setting the blocks down on a flat surface and close them. Then tighten up the handles.

[Chris C]

It's a double cavity Accurate mold. They fit very loose on the handles. I think the best suggestion yet is to simply rest the molds on a flat surface when closing them. DUH! My first day of casting, what can you expect? ;-)

[country gent]

You can test that out just trying it on the bench cold. a piece of flat stock or even round stock laid down on the bench top and open muld sit flat on flat surface and close. Will show if it helps or not. and give you an idea of position it needs to be useable when casting and some pracice at it. I set 6-8 towels in a paint roller paint pan. leaving the edge towards me clear. T drop bullets into towel, pull back and set mould on the rolled edge flat and close tap twice to make sure they are closed / seated, close sprue plate, and refill. A feeler gage will check and tell you how much clearence is between moulds blocks and handles. Make a shim .003 to .005 thinner than this and drill a hole for mount screw insert between top of handle and mould blocks and remount.

[stu1ritter]

I use Lee 6 cavity handles on all of my Accurate molds and have no problems at all. They just work and for $12.95 are hard to beat.

[AbitNutz]

Those are CabineTree locking mold handles. They're good because they absolutely make sure your mold is closed. They're adjustable for most any mold. The original ones wouldn't fit the longer 6 cavity Lee molds and the like. I asked him to make some that would...and he did.

The downside is that they're a bit on the heavy side. Hang a 4 cavity brass mold on it and you won't be ladle pouring it. After just a few rounds you're looking for a mold guide to sit it on.

However, they're really, really a great handle. I believe Jim of CabineTree retired and I guess they're now being made by someone else for Buffalo Arms.

[Chris C]

Simply setting the molds on the towel long enough to close the handles was the solution. I really like these handles. They work kind of like Vise Grips..........though the idea isn't to tighten them to the "clamping" point. Adjust them so they just close, with no gap between the molds. No need for any pressure. This just keeps the molds from coming apart if I'm gettin' tired and unable to keep them closed during casting. I've never used other handles..........nor have I really cast before this, but I can honestly say I like them and can highly recommend them.

[country gent]

Sitting the blocks on the towels may allow fibers to get between blocks and keeping them slightly open. A metal or wood surface works much better .

[Chris C]

Thanks.

[54bore]

I use Lee 6 cavity handles on all of my Accurate molds and have no problems at all. They just work and for $12.95 are hard to beat.

I fully agree! I am new to casting and asked advise from forum members here on which handles to go with, I ended up trying a pair of the lee 6 cavity handles and they work flawlessly, I have since handled the Rcbs and Lyman handles and I will say they are nice and seem very well built but they are more than twice the price as the lee's and I can't find a single thing wrong with these lee 6 cavity handles?

[gwpercle]

I use Lee 6 cavity handles on all of my Accurate molds and have no problems at all. They just work and for $12.95 are hard to beat.

You would think a $70.00 handle would be so much better than those cheap Lee's !
Thanks for the heads up.

[Chris C]

I'm so happy with my Buffalo Arms handles.............I wouldn't trade them for all the handles on earth.

[frkelly74]

Another approach is to use the old ove gloves . I wear them and can use my hand to grip the mold itself to make certain it is properly closed.

[AbitNutz]

I have several of the old Cabine Tree mold handles, one for 2 or some 4 cavity molds and one for Lee 6 cavity molds. I just received my order from Buffalo Arms which included a new set of handles....WOW! Are they better made than my old Cabine Tree versions. They're lighter and much, much better finished. All the articulating joints work better...they're just better all the way around...

With one exception. They still don't fit my NOE 4 cavity molds...Argh!

They're still THE best mold handles I have ever used...yes, they're expensive. I wish they weren't and I wish they fit NOE molds.

[Chris C]

When I have to hold a isometric pressure with my left, hand I tend to get cramps. I am right handed and hold my handles in my left. 3 years ago I lost my ring finger on my left hand to a 3/4" Dado blade on my table saw. The surgeon not only took the finger, but the attaching bone. (total finger resection I think he called it) It left my left hand with diminished blood flow and one of the things that really impressed/impresses me about these handles is when they are close, there is absolutely no pressure required on my part to keep them right where the are.............and it's 100% repeatable. Wouldn't trade'em for the world.

[country gent]

You could talk to noe and see if they would cut the moulds to fit those handles. Its a simple straight flat cut. Noe might be willing to do it.

[Chris C]

Or any machine shop in your neighborhood.

[AbitNutz]

The tangs aren't long enough....if only they made the tangs an inch or so longer....argch!

[AbitNutz]

I just checked one of my Lee 6 cavity molds and these handles are a no go for them as well. In Buffalo Arms description they claim they will fit Lee 6 cavity molds. The Cabine Tree originals I have do fit all molds but, like I said before, these handles are much lighter and better finished and I think I will like them better. I just wish the tangs were just a bit longer.

http://www.buffaloarms.com/Bullet_Mold_Handles_it-159278.aspx?CAT=3847

[AbitNutz]

I emailed Buffalo Arms about their description that the locking mold handles worked with Lee 6 cavity molds...because they don't. They wrote back and said "woops" and changed the description. They no longer say that. Great, all they would have had to do is lengthen the freakin' tangs by about 1/2".

I don't understand how people can be so short sighted when they make these things. It's a $70.00 pair of mold handles that includes several joints and a means of locking. They thought of everything but what they could fit on. Considering the number of 6 cavity molds that Lee likely sells, you'd think that in designing a pair of mold handles you would make sure that they fit them.

I may do a bit of welding on these and see if I can rectify the situation.