Update on my SP-101 in 32 Magnum with 3" barrel......

[Harry O]

Bought it about a month ago. As with all other Rugers I have, the trigger pull was way too heavy when I first got it. I bought a Wolff spring pack for it and replaced the hammer spring with the 10# spring in the kit. Most of my previous Rugers were happy with that one. I have not had any luck with the lighter trigger return spring in the past, but I tried it again. I shouldn't have.

The gun was functionally more accurate with the lighter springs. Easier to trip the trigger without moving the sights. No problems with the 10# spring. I have fired about 200 cartridges in it without any hangfires or failures to fire. The ones I have tried with 8# (or 9# in more recent spring kits) do not fire every cartridge.

The trigger was slightly slow to return sometimes. This has happened before, sometime even worse, when I used the lighter trigger return spring. Then, the cylinder release started hanging up. I would press the back side of it to release the cylinder. When it closed, it would not fully snap forward, locking up the trigger and hammer. I had to jiggle the release and the cylinder in order to get it to work. I don't know how they are connected and never had that happen before.

So, it was back to the factory trigger return spring. It worked perfectly at the range today. Looks like this will be a nice gun. It is pretty close to the same accuracy as my S&W Super-KitGun in .32 Magnum. Not quite as accurate as my Ruger Super-SingleSix, also in .32 Magnum. Of course, the barrel on that one is twice as long.

Spent some time this week preparing my Starline .32 Magnum cases for use. Most of the work was shortening them. About 2/3 of them were 0.020" to 0.035" longer than they should have been. That is over and I should not have to shorten them again for a very long time -- maybe forever.

[huntrick64]

On my SP101's and GP-100 I was able to perform all of the metal clean-up per Gary Bunker's IBOK. I always left the hammer spring factory because they were carry guns and I didn't want any light strikes; However, I did lighten the trigger return spring. The most improvement was from polishing the trigger return spring plunger and the complete chamber it rides in. I took these to a mirror finish. I also knocked any burrs off the edges of the hammer strut (where the hammer springs rides) and polished them to a mirror finish as well. The triggers on these guns are awesome. I performed all of the IBOK stuff, but the bang for the buck was the lighter trigger return spring and polishing the surfaces.

I'm jealous of your gun! I think that would be a fun SP-101.

[gray wolf]

The most improvement was from polishing the trigger return spring plunger and the complete chamber it rides in. I took these to a mirror finish. I also knocked any burrs off the edges of the hammer strut (where the hammer springs rides) and polished them to a mirror finish as well. The triggers on these guns are awesome. I performed all of the IBOK stuff, but the bang for the buck was the lighter trigger return spring and polishing the surfaces.

Spring kits are half the job, all of the above completes the work.
The TRS tunnel can be nasty from the factory. Also the hammer strut is a stamped part pay close attention to it.
Polish the flat edges and slightly round over and polish the vertical sides.
Take a small thin dowel and wrap it with some 400 or 600 paper and give it a few twist inside the springs.
A little is more with the springs, and every little bit of what you do completes the project.

Excellent advise in quoted post.

[Petrol & Powder]

On my SP101's and GP-100 I was able to perform all of the metal clean-up per Gary Bunker's IBOK. I always left the hammer spring factory because they were carry guns and I didn't want any light strikes; However, I did lighten the trigger return spring. The most improvement was from polishing the trigger return spring plunger and the complete chamber it rides in. I took these to a mirror finish. I also knocked any burrs off the edges of the hammer strut (where the hammer springs rides) and polished them to a mirror finish as well. The triggers on these guns are awesome. I performed all of the IBOK stuff, but the bang for the buck was the lighter trigger return spring and polishing the surfaces.

I'm jealous of your gun! I think that would be a fun SP-101.

/\ This is spot on.

I've been playing with Ruger DA revolvers for years and they are good guns. With a little work the DA pull can be greatly improved. The hammer strut is often a problem area but it is also one of the easiest to clean up. In addition to smoothing the strut itself, the seat that it passes through can be cleaned up as well. While you have the strut/spring/seat disassembled, clamp the seat in a vise. Cut and fold a small section of 600 grit paper so that you can pass it through the center hole of the seat. Pull the paper tight and work it back & forth so that you polish the edges of that hole. The strut and spring seat are stamped pieces and are often very rough where they ride against each other. The ball tip of the strut that engages the hammer can also be polished and I like to put just a dab of white lithium grease on that ball end before I reassemble the gun.
Shimming the trigger to remove excessive side play also goes a long way to smoothing things up and it is a one time job.
The "Tunnel" that the trigger return spring rides in can be cleaned up as well as the plunger that rides inside that tunnel. There are a lot of places where some careful polishing will help but those are the most profitable.
Most of the tricks that work on the GP-100 will also work on the SP101. They really are stout guns and the actions can be made to rival the newer S&W's.
I agree with gray wolf, "Spring kits are half the job..." .