Getting back into BP Cartridge Rifles...

[Echale3]

I just scored a Uberti 1885 High Wall in 45-70 off Gunbroker so I'm getting back into the fun and games of black powder cartridge rifles--many years ago I had a Rolling Block in 40-70 SS that I loaded for. This rifle will not be used with smokeless, it's BP only as far as I'm concerned.

Any advice as to creating the load stack in terms of lube cookies or lubed wads, powder compression amounts, and over-powder wad types and thicknesses that seem to work well as a good starting point for a stock Uberti?

I've done some searching on here and on a few other sites, and it seems that the longest bullet the 1:20 Uberti rate of twist will stabilize is 1.57" in length (according to the Greenhill Formula), and I've read recommendations that bullet weights shouldn't go much over 500 grains in that rifle in order to be adequately stabilized, so I'm probably going to lean towards slugs between 400-500 grains.

I'll definitely be slugging the barrel and doing a pound cast to get the bore/throat dimensions, so I'll have those dimensions to work from in terms of bullet fit.

Beyond the SAECO 645 and other Postell variants, are there any particular slugs those of you shooting the Uberti High Wall would recommend trying out? How do flat nose bullets like the RCBS 45-405 or 45-500 typically shoot in the Uberti?

I don't intend on shooting any further than a few hundred yards as I'm not in an area where there's BPCRS matches, and I'm doing this for fun and to hunt deer. On the farm I hunt, typical shots are under 150 yards, although there are places there where I could take much longer shots (500+ yards) if I wanted to.

[country gent]

The volumne of your brass will also have a determining factor on powder charge. As each rifle and barrel are individuals and unto their own mind it pays to do a little work up. Depending on what black powder is available to you ( Goex, old ensford, Swiss, graffs) start with a charge that just fills the case to the base of the bullet when poured thru a drop tube 24"-36" long ( probably around 59-62 grains) seat a card board wad and compress back to depth for base of bullet. Work up from here inn 2 grn increments to find what the rifle likes. A lyman 457125 bullet (510 grn round nose) that cast with a nose dia close to your bore is ussually a good all around use bullet. What may work better is to buy pre cast for awhile and see what works then buy that mould. A post i wanted to buy here may net small batches of bullets 25-30 for you to test also. Start out with bullet just off the rifling for easy loading a full case of powder (no airspace). with grese grooved bullets you ussually dont need a grease cookie. A good cardboard was and 1-2 tracing paper wads ( tracing paper wads ensure the heavy wad dosnt stick to base). And test loads as you go.

[Echale3]

Thanks for the info and advice, I appreciate it. Having reloaded For BPCR before, I was intending to use a drop tube, and do the full work up, including charge compression, when it comes to load development to suit the rifle.

The only powder on the shelves around here is Goex, I'll see if I can order any other manufacturers powders.

I'll definitely be asking if anybody could supply me a few bullets of various types to try out, which I'd gladly compensate people for their time, effort, and materials, of course.

[country gent]

I order swiss and old ensford from Buffal Arms company by the mixed case of 25 lbs. Powder inc and graffs also carry and sell black powder. Buy in quanity and it lessens the bite of the hazmat shipping fees. Buffalo Arms allows you to mix diffrent brands and ganulations to make the 25 or 50 lbs case.

[Echale3]

Coincidentally, I was just on the Graf & Sons website checking out your powder recommendations. The prices don't seem bad, especially for the Graf & Sons brand powder. Ill definitely be buying in bulk lots once I settle on the powder this new rifle, the hazmat fees are always a pain in the rump.