Leading on Ruger Redhawk (soothe a newbs concerns ;-) )

[GrantS]

Hello all.

I know the topic has been done to death, but I'm the nervous sort....especially since the main reason I avoided lead bullets for so long was the (you've heard it all) horror stories of overly leaded guns.....Well I got over that stupidity but am the overtly paranoid person who can drive myself nuts over the smallest details.

These are not home-cast bullets, I'm using Rimrockbullets 240 hardcasts, 15BHN sized to .430. The Ruger Redhawk has been checked....with calipers. After a week of hard looking, I can't find anyone with a micrometer. But with 4 sets of calipers, and checking soft-lead slug checks I've come up with:
.4295 bore.
.4305-.431 throat. .429 jacketed fall through without resistance, .430 jacketed slide in and will go through with some jiggling, .430 lead bullets need semi-firm tapping with a pen to push through.

I've previously shot around......600? rounds of these bullets with 11 grains of AA#5, chronographed at 980FPS, not a single bit of leading. Seated at standard 1.600 depth.


I loaded up another batch and bumped up the powder charge to 11.6 grains of AA#5, seated to 1.590 (went a bit deeper than I intended). Chronographed at 1090-1120FPS.

It's starting to lead up noticeably after about 40 rounds. Not real worried, it cleaned it out 100% when I was chronographing some jacketed bullets. It's been another 40 rounds, about to the same point, and I plan on getting a Lewis Lead Remover (Can't find copper chore boys, only steel-type) so I do not worry about the leading.

My question was: Rimrock offers it's bullets in .430 and .431 sizes (Edit P.S. just checked, they only say .430 on that style of bullet, other bullets offer both sizes).

Do I order .431's? Drop the load back a shade? or just shoot it and remove lead every few hundred rounds?

It's a new animal to me, and after much searching.....I see a divide between people who say bullets should fit the barrel well, but smaller than the throat, and I see people who say the bullet should be larger than the throat and swaged down as it passes through.

Sorry for the long-winded and newb questions :grin: I've learned a lot in the short time I've been reloading and just trying to absorb some more.

[Motor]

I'm kinda surprised you got lead fouling. When I started to read your post I was thinking "he's going say he got leading after reducing the load" which can occur with hard cast boolits.

You could try .431" boolits. I would.

You really did not describe your lead fouling very well. There are many good loads that produce lead fouling it's the amount of lead fouling that matters. If the amount of fouling levels off (stops accumulating) and accuracy stays good, then you don't really have a leading problem.

I'm not a fan of cleaning out lead fouling by shooting jacketed bullets. Lead fouling "can" cause excessive pressure just as any other barrel obstruction would.

Motor

[454PB]

Assuming your measurements are accurate, there is no obvious reason for you to have a leading problem. Though I use very few commercial cast bullets, I've found that the lube used on them varies from OK to awful. I'd recommend you try some "home cast" boolits of proper dimensions and a decent lube before condemning the gun.

[DocSavage]

How smooth is your bore? I've found that Ruger bores tend to be rough and where the barrel is screwed into the frame usually is constricted. I 've had to fire lap all my Ruger revolvers. By doing this the leading I get is minimal to non existent.

[GrantS]

The leading is spread full-length through the barrel, not just near the forcing cone. Just very small streaks here & there along the edges of the grooves. I thought it may be just rough spots picking up lead, and I plan on continuing to shoot and see if it seems to just "stop" at a certain point. 40 rounds isn't much, but I thought I'd search out opinions early on.

It was mentioned that I'm possibly squeezing the bullet during crimping, however the crimp is very light.

And shooting jacketed isn't my plan to clean out the lead unless it is very-VER small deposits like I had, I merely happened to do it without thinking and it cleaned out very easily.

I appreciate the input, if I get time after a funeral tomorrow I plan on shooting another box or two of ammo and seeing how the leading looks. Been practicing my 50-100 yard handgunning a lot anyway, just use my .44 tomorrow :D


Was wanting to figure it out as the place has free shipping on bullets and I plan on ordering this weekend.

FWIW: I am also using these loads and having no leading at all:
.357 Magnum, 180 grain .358 15BHN over 7.6 grains of AA#5 at 1020FPS in a Uberti Bisley and Uberti SAA clone, no leading at all except a tiny bit at the muzzle of both that hasn't continued to build up.

+P .38 Special/light 38/44, 158 grain .358 12BHN over 6.8 grains of AA#5 at 980FPS in the above two guns as well.

[dondiego]

Is your accuracy going south as you shoot? Sounds like you may only have a little antimony wash which will not hurt anything or build up. If you are getting a noticeable buildup and accuracy diminishes and you get flakes of lead out at cleaning, then you do have leading.

[44man]

Go to a slower powder as you want velocity. Your powder is way, way too fast.

[mdi]

I can see nothing, from your description, (other than 44Man's suggestion) that might cause leading. General thinkin; Get a micrometer. You can find a decent one for under $75.00 that is accurate within .0005". Ferget "drop through", "light push through". "feels like", and "about". These are not measurements and really mean nothing (your difficult push through may be light for some). It's really difficult to measure an ID with calipers as the jaws aren't knife sharp and the flats will give a smaller/false reading.

I've not used commercial cast bullets in several years so I cannot comment on new purchases, but nearly all the cast bullets I've purchases were too hard and had very poor lube. Casting my own with my "mystery metal (approx. 12 BHN) with a good lube (Carnuba Red, Speed Green, or one of White Label's good lubes), I rarely get leading with good fitting bullets.

You're not using a Lee FCD, are you? Possibly seat and crimp in two steps. Seat to the crimp groove and roll or Profile crimp, without buckling the case, and you should be fine...

jes an old guy's $.02...

[GrantS]

Dondiego: I am unsure :) I'm new to this, I plan on shooting another 40-60 rounds and monitoring it, it very well could be.

44man: I did a lot of looking and to get 1000FPS to 1050/1100FPS, AA#5 is about all that is suitable, much less available. 2400 I cannot find and would be super-dirty loaded that low, and AA#9, IMR4227, H110,etc. cannot be downloaded that far. Maximum load for a 240hardcast LSWC is 14 grains of AA#5 so I'm a fair bit below that.

Bluedot would be the closest alternative however I cannot find it and by the burn-rate chart it is relatively close, possibly AA#7? I can order that.

What would be a good alternative? I wasn't wanting top-level loads for my hardcasts, something a bit easier to shoot than top level, but a bit more than 900FPS pop loads.

MDI:
I'll try and acquire a micrometer, I am going to try a different place tomorrow that may have one. The dies and press I'm using are RCBS dies and a RCBS and Herters single-stage presses.



So if I do get 100% accurate micrometer measurements.....what would I do? Get a bullet the exact size or a shade bigger than the throats? that "squeeze down" effect won't lead to leading up of the throat moreso than just a snug fit? I realize it would seal against blow-by, which is the largest cause of leading.

[GrantS]

But thank you guys :) Having a blast, and me and friends have been saving bunches of lead to try casting under the guidance of a man who has done it a lot. However it isn't been easy to come buy (old contacts have most of the easy sources lined up) and we all have large-bore muzzleloaders that will be taking the largest amount once we get going.

[Quatroclick]

25+ years ago I had a Redhawk that leaded worse than anything I have ever owned. I was pretty new at reloading back then, and I wound up selling the gun to pay taxes before I figured out the problem.

[Tatume]

How do you know that what you are seeing is lead? I suggest you shoot some until you see the streaks, then clean with a bronze brush followed by a tight fitting patch. Look on the patch for flakes of lead. My guess is you won't find any.

[44man]

All fast powders have a nasty affect with an instant thump on the boolit and making a boolit skid rifling more if too soft. The RH loves H110 but it is not for lower velocities.
Finding powders we want is the worst thing. Gun stores are not like the old where you could get anything, now they stock only what sells. I called the store for a powder and they don't have it but would get some but only 8# jugs. What if it doesn't work?
I am darn sure they could have gotten a pound with the next order. Orders are mix and match.
Gun stores would help long ago and were friends. Today if something is on a shelf more then 2 days, they will not get it.

[Bullwolf]

It's starting to lead up noticeably after about 40 rounds. Not real worried, it cleaned it out 100% when I was chronographing some jacketed bullets. It's been another 40 rounds, about to the same point, and I plan on getting a Lewis Lead Remover (Can't find copper chore boys, only steel-type) so I do not worry about the leading.

Sorry for the long-winded and newb questions :grin: I've learned a lot in the short time I've been reloading and just trying to absorb some more.

Amazon is an nice source for all Copper Chore Boy scrubber pads.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/91zVqI3QbbL._SX522_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Chore-Boy-Copper-Scouring-Pad-2ct/dp/B006K3XS5A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453442962&sr=8-1&keywords=copper+chore+boy

I've read that junkies are using the copper chore boy along with drugs in their pipes or something. So it's kind of became drug culture paraphernalia, and consequently is getting harder to come by in many places. This sucks, as it really cleans pots and pans well (and well as leaded bores) and they don't rust like SOS pads do.

I've purchased a few Choreboy pads for my own personal use from Amazon.

Another thing to try if you're shooting commercial cast. Many commercial cast boolits have a couple of strikes against them. They are made from a too hard alloy, and are lubed with a hard crayon like lube. Both the hard alloy, and hard lube helps the boolits hold up well to shipping damage but unfortunately they don't always perform as well as softer alloys, and better (softer flowing) lubes do when being fired.

You can make up for at least one of these short comings by applying a light tumble lube coating over the hard commercial cast/lubed boolits. Bens new easy Liquid Lube (BLL) which is a simple mix of 60% Alox and 40% Johnson's Liquid Floor Wax works well in this application, as will straight or thinned Alox, or even Recluse's 45-45-10 mix.

Check out the sticky below on Ben's new BLL Tumble Lube!
NEW ! ! T/L Liquid Lube (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?259285-NEW-!-!-T-L-Liquid-Lube)

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?259285-NEW-!-!-T-L-Liquid-Lube

Regarding using slower powders: There are many that work nicely in the 44 if you can find them.

If you really like Accurate Powders, AA #9 is a nice slow burning magnum powder that works well in 44 Mag, and can be a good BlueDot replacement.

I'm fond of Unique in my mild cast 44 Magnum loads as well. A mild load of 8-10 grains of Unique has worked nicely with nearly any 240 grain cast lead bullet I've ever tried.

Alliant BlueDot is a popular choice with lots of load data available. I personally don't like downloading Blue Dot, or using it with magnum primers, but as long as I've followed those rules it's always played nice with me.

Alliant 2400, can be somewhat hard to find lately, but its also a great selection for the 44 Magnum from mild to wild. 2400 also plays nicely when downloaded. I do end up using somewhat more 2400 in the 44 Magnum cartridge than other powders.
(18-21 grains of 2400 per charge, compared to 10 grains of Unique)
But 2400 is so versatile that I don't let it bother me much. If you shoot heavier 300-310 grain boolits, you do use less 2400 (say 14-16 grains per charge) 2400 is really flexible and predictable with the heavier weights as well.

Light charges of 2400 don't burn as cleanly as ones with heavier boolits, or higher pressure loads will.

Even Alliant Steel will also work in the 44 Magnum, but it has almost no published load data available so you are kind of off the books if you try this combo.

I've used a fair amount of the latest incarnation of IMR-4227 in 44 Magnum lately, that it seems is being made in Canada instead of Australia.

More importantly, 4227 has been available on shelves with many other rifles powders, when other pistol powders are practically gone. IMR-4227 also behaves well when downloaded. IMR-4227 is not an economical powder selection either, as you use a fair amount of it per charge in the 44 Magnum. (21-22 grains of IMR-4227 vs say 14-16 grains of BlueDot) There's a lot of load data for IMR-4227 in the 44 Magnum out there.

When 4227 is all that's on the shelf, it's another viable option. I have not noticed recent lots of IMR-4227 be temperature unstable in my loading range, as others have reported, but your individual mileage may vary.




- Bullwolf

[Lloyd Smale]

ill combine docsavage and 44mans advice and say that like 44man said your probably deforming those bullets with such a fast powder and secondly like docsavages advice I will say that I have never saw a ruger redhawk that didn't have some constriction where the barrel screws into the frame. Lapping that out cures a lot of the problems with them.

[GrantS]

Again, thank you guys :) lots more to research upon. I'll order some choreboys (I can't believe I didn't think of ordering online, goes to show what a one-track mind can do ;) ) Also I will look into and try lapping the barrel a bit.

I "may"....have bothered you all for nothing, I fired another 40 rounds with no noticeable extra leading so it....may be antimony or lube buildup. I worry too much ;)

Even so, I am on the watch for better powders, I never planned to use AA#5 but it's all I could find, even online.

I've used IMMR 4227 and been VERY pleased with it, super-accurate powder from what loading I've done with it. 2400 is something I plan on acquiring several jugs of whenever I can manage to find them if possible. AA#9 I use in my top-end jacketed loads right now and I do like it.

I want to get some AA#7 or blue-dot, just seems like most of what I find is either suitable for light loads, AKA Unique,etc. or magnum, H110,AA#9, 2400,etc. Gotta do some digging to find some good middle-load powders.

[Lloyd Smale]

even if its not leading I would surely fix the choke point that's no doubt in your barrel. Doing so will greatly increase accuracy because what your basically doing is swaging down the bullet through the choke and its rattling down the bore afterward. I honestly have never seen an out of the box redhawk without a constriction.

[Tatume]

My brand new 44 Magnum Redhawk has no constriction.

[DocSavage]

I can guarantee that most revolvers of recent manufacture is constricted where the barrel is screwed into the frame. To reduce cost barrels are secured in place by a crush fit,the only way is to find out to see what I mean is to
drive lead slug down the barrel. If you do this you will feel every rough,uneven spot in your barrel. My barrels felt like a sewer pipe with a definite tight spot where the barrel and frame meet. Firelapping smoothed out the barrel and as I previously stated reduced or eliminated leading.

[hutch18414]

My 1981 model has no constriction.

[DougGuy]

GrantS have you got a cleaning kit with a jag? Get the barrel really clean, free of any leading or residue and tightly patch the jag in the bore, you can use a paper towel for this doesn't have to be cloth. Push the jag down the bore, when it gets to the area that is threaded into the frame, if the jag gets stiff to push, that's because the barrel may be "thread choked" by torquing it into the frame at the factory. If the jag doesn't really slow down and get stiffer to push through the last 1" of bore, there is no choke. If it gets real hard, stops, and you have to beat it to get it all the way through, there is choke and it is fairly severe.

If it is choked this bad, I would call Ruger's customer support and discuss it with them. If the jag goes through with about the same effort that it takes to keep it moving in the bore, you are good to go. I would consider sending the cylinder and getting the throats reamed and honed to .4315" if you want to use .431" boolits. If you can't push a .430" through the throats, they are tight and will only size a .431" down to whatever the diameter of the throats are upon firing.

[Lloyd Smale]

so of the original ones even had a problem of the barrels shearing off when you were shooting them because of a misfit between the barrel threads and the receiver threads. I had a buddy I worked with that had it happen with his. I'm not saying each and every one of them did but quality control at ruger isn't Hamilton bowen grade and lots of redhawks came out with constrictions and some of them really bad. Ive had 5 redhawks and all of them had constrictions and I know my buddy has had more then me and all of his needed lapping too. I know the problem was so bad that Hamilton bowen didn't even want to work on them because it was so hard to get some of the barrels off without damaging things.

[GrantS]

I'll check my redhawk and see what the barrel constriction looks like. If it is noticeable, as it seems it probably is, I'll try and have it lapped. I know a guy that did it before, so I can get a few pointers from him (gunsmith).

.430's go through the throats (still trying to find a micrometer) so I'm thinking it's right at .431. But I want to check anyway.

I hit a busy spell so it may be awhile before I can get around to either,.

But again: to ALL, thank you for the input :) makes decisions a lot easier.

[44man]

Choke might be there and Ruger barrels are tough so it might need a lot of lapping shots.
I got to thinking about it and bought cast is not known to have a good lube. It should not be a problem with hardness as I shoot much harder. I have made bought boolits work by breaking out the lube and putting felix lube on them.
AA9 and Blue Dot would be a great choice for what you want.
Also make sure you just don't have some antimony wash on the lands, it will not hurt anything. All of my guns have some and I go years without wiping a bore. Wash will come out with a bronze brush. I have never seen it build up. Chore Boy is faster. I just ignore it. If your gun is accurate and does not change as you shoot, time to relax.
I only found 2 things with the RH, they are a little picky about powders and also how you grip them. But can be made very, very accurate. They will never match a SRH but will shoot right along with a SBH. Still a great gun.

[GrantS]

44man: I'm thinking I may try relubing some bullets. I figure I'm just going to keep shooting and see how the barrel progresses. I have a feeling I got all riled up over nothing.....not the first time for me AKA mild OCD person. haha.

My Redhawk shoots better than I do ;) My hardcast loads are doing around 2" at 25 yards. They really tightened up when I bumped up the powder charge to 11.6 VS 11 grains, I figured it was obdurating and getting a better seal.

I used to have a .44 Super Blackhawk, but it just never felt "right" for me. I proved it shot superbly but I myself just couldn't love it. Sold it to a friend and bought my Redhawk, love it, although it took FOREVER to find a 5 1/2" blued model. Ruger double actions just feel "right" to me. The older ones :) I have two security sixes, a 6" and a 2 3/4". Those three guns are my most shot guns of anything I own.

[opos]

Just going to offer an alternative if you shoot commercial cast bullets..I get the Missouri high tech coated bullets in a hardness to match the pressures of the loads I'm shooting...an example...I shoot a Ruger original size Vaquero 45 Colt with moderate loads of Trail Boss for just general target and plinking use...I shoot the Missouri #4 cowboy bullet with a hardness of 12. it's a .452 diameter...I also shoot the exact same bullet with the same hardness with a medium loading of W231 in my CZ...it works great..is accurate and I get no leading in either gun with either load. I had been getting a little smear of leading with that same bullet in both of the guns when I was loading an uncoated bullet...

Don't know if this might be a solution but it works great for me and I've shot a lot of them...I can't cast so need to shoot commercial cast. I've never had good luck with hard cast bullets but then I'm old and slow.

[Lloyd Smale]

the srh's are a gun that allways made me shake my head. So ugly that I just cant bring myself to own one but there the hands down best shooting 6 gun you can buy. Id say in my experience they even outshoot my custom six and five guns that ive spent near 2k on. Buddy has a 454 and a 44 and both shoot less then 2 inch at a 100 yards with good loads and a scope. Amazing to me. Built like a fricking tank too!
Choke might be there and Ruger barrels are tough so it might need a lot of lapping shots.
I got to thinking about it and bought cast is not known to have a good lube. It should not be a problem with hardness as I shoot much harder. I have made bought boolits work by breaking out the lube and putting felix lube on them.
AA9 and Blue Dot would be a great choice for what you want.
Also make sure you just don't have some antimony wash on the lands, it will not hurt anything. All of my guns have some and I go years without wiping a bore. Wash will come out with a bronze brush. I have never seen it build up. Chore Boy is faster. I just ignore it. If your gun is accurate and does not change as you shoot, time to relax.
I only found 2 things with the RH, they are a little picky about powders and also how you grip them. But can be made very, very accurate. They will never match a SRH but will shoot right along with a SBH. Still a great gun.

[44man]

We got a deal on a package bunch of SRH's once long ago. I got to shoot all of them, .44's of course. A few shot better then mine which would do 1/2" at 50. I shot pop cans at 200 from bags.
it is big and ugly but mine took a lot of deer too, I loved it. Then I wanted the BFR .475 and my friend talked me out of it. I will never part with my 10-1/2" SBH IHMSA gun even though it barely matches the SRH and at about 81,000 heavy loads, it shows no wear. Side play, end shake and gap are the same as when new and groove is still .430". Rugers are great guns. BFR's even better. Just a big Ruger actually.
Friends had RH's for IHMSA and I could not make 296 shoot from them at all. I tried H110 and they came right in but my other Rugers hated H110. Strange as all get out for sure. Same powder.
One of the reasons I never bought a RH was to need separate loads of powders. I did need separate loads for the SRH and SBH, same load, same powder but brass had to be kept apart, those that fit my SBH would not chamber in the SRH.
Another Ruger that shoots lights out is the SBH Hunter but I could not control the Bisley. I am sensitive to grips. S&W 29's do the same with me. I prefer the hog leg and nothing is as good feeling and looking as a Colt SA but they never kept up with the times. Prices did but guns didn't.
You could not ever need a stronger gun then a RH, just need to work with it.
One suggestion is to dump LP mag primers and use only the Fed 150 for all powders. You can get close with a CCI 300.

[Tatume]

the srh's are a gun that allways made me shake my head. So ugly that I just cant bring myself to own one but there the hands down best shooting 6 gun you can buy. Id say in my experience they even outshoot my custom six and five guns that ive spent near 2k on. Buddy has a 454 and a 44 and both shoot less then 2 inch at a 100 yards with good loads and a scope. Amazing to me. Built like a fricking tank too!

They're ugly at first glance, but they sure do grow on you. My 44 and 454 SRHs are (as you say) accurate and indestructible. The trigger is much better than the Redhawk too.

Also, the original rubber grip with stabilized wood panel inserts are very comfortable. Although the newer guns come with rubber grips, the original grips are available as replacement parts. The hole in the grip stud must be drilled out to 7/16", so it's a permanent modification, but well worth it. Also, there are aftermarket panels that are a wee bit thicker, that really make the grips shine.

All in all, beauty is as beauty does. I like my SRHs.

Take care, Tom

[44man]

That was another thing I did not like with the RH, one spring for trigger and hammer. Hard to get a nice trigger. Never, ever reduce the hammer springs. All my SA's get over power springs of 26# minimum.

[725]

Great info above. I would try to add tumble lube to your commercial boolits. Somebody recommended Ben's Liquid Lube, and I concur. Wonderful stuff. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS !! You want it to pour like a coke, Ben says. Couldn't be easier. Barrel constrictions, forcing cones, and all that other stuff is worth investigating, but Ben's LL goes along way to solving many leading issues. At least in my experience.

[Motor]

I have done what "725" suggested as well (tumble lubing over the existing lube). When I used to use lube I would often tumble lube some designs twice as well. I powder coat now and ZERO lead fouling is the norm. :)

I didn't notice if the OP ever stated if his gun was stainless steel or not. I had a Security Six that was made either in the very late 1970's or in 1980 when I got it that was stainless steel and I never found a commercial boolit that would not lead the barrel of that gun.

That stainless steel S6 is the reason I bought my first Lewis lead remover. Now that I cast my own and am more into this I kind of wish some times that I didn't sell it. But selling it allowed me to get my old model .357 BH with 4 5/8" barrel.

Motor

[Oklahoma Rebel]

I have always preferred single action, do you guys hold the ruger Blackhawk in such high regard as the redhawk, and do they have the same constriction problems, are they as durable as the redhawk? thanks

[Tatume]

People have reported frame choking in the Blackhawk and Super Blackhawk as well. I have never experienced it, and I own many of them. I do hold them in high regard, but they are not as strong as the Redhawk and Super Redhawk.

That said, they are plenty strong! Hamilton Bowen reports of a friend who stuffed as much H110 under a heavy 44 bullet as he could fit and fired it. The gun was not destroyed, but it was damaged. However, it was not damaged so much as to keep him from firing another round. The cylinder was bulged. The frame wasn't touched. Bowen fitted a new cylinder, and the gun was fine.

The Super Blackhawk will handle any sane load. The Redhawk and Super Redhawk are nearly indestructible. Hamilton Bowen fits five shot cylinders to Redhawk and Super Redhawk revolvers. Who knows what the limits are then?

[Lloyd Smale]

ive owned a number of super blackhawks through the years and have shot many more. Just about all of them shoot well. Do they shoot as well as the average super redhawk. maybe not. The super blackhawks ive owned and shot have outshot the regular redhawks though. Now someone will probably chime in saying there regular redhawk is a tack driver and I its very possible but I'm talking the average of maybe 10-20 guns. Ive yet to shoot a super redhawk that wasn't a tack driver. Ive yet to shoot a super Blackhawk that wasn't at least a very good shooter and some have been tack drivers (especially the hunter guns ive shot) Ive yet to have a redhawk that was much better then 2 inch at 25 yards. Most struggle to do that. Now I'm talking out of the box guns. With enough work you can probably make them shoot. I have seen slight choking in the super Blackhawk but most don't have any and the ones that do seem to have less of it then the redhawks. I remember when ruger started making the 4 inch redhawks in 44 and 45. Figured maybe they got them right this time. So my buddy and I just had to have them and bought one of each. All 4 of them went down the road because they didn't shoot.
I have always preferred single action, do you guys hold the ruger Blackhawk in such high regard as the redhawk, and do they have the same constriction problems, are they as durable as the redhawk? thanks

[GrantS]

See it's funny, I like the look of the standard Redhawk, the Super Redhawks are a mighty ugly to me ;) Kinda like women I guess, one mans ugly is another man's beauty.

I'll try some extra lube on them, however I've fired yet another 40 rounds and buildup seems to have stopped. I'm thinking it may just have been wash or excess lube building up,.

[44man]

Is one Ruger tougher then another? Sure but it will be the cylinder beef or alloy used. See all manuals that say "RUGER ONLY"? Break one and go look in the mirror.
I still think the RH loses accuracy from grip and angle. Then trigger pull comes in but the gun is STRONG. Looks are another thing and I think the RH is ugly. I don't know but it feels like Broom handle to me.
Kind of like the Ruger Mark I and II, perfect. I don't like the .22/45 grip at all, just the look. Yet I love a 1911 so it is funny and depends on the gun. Looks count and the best revolver looks on earth is the Colt SAA.
To hold a gun in your hands and admire it is half the battle. Some love a Bisley but I hate them. UGLY. Might be why I can't shoot them. But not really, FEEL is what counts.
I think we fail from mental a lot too. You can shoot better with a gun you like the looks of.