Just the facts: Lube recipes

[45nut]

I ask for submissions for a thread to simplify and consolidate lube recipes, I would prefer this thread be hard facts and minimal in off topic conversations.

There are 7 pages of threads already when a simple search query for lube recipe is entered into the search and many many days of reading, while noteworthy and helpful, I would like one thread to "sticky" for all time.

Any submissions welcome and encouraged, I just ask we stick to the facts and leave out the "ya, that is what I use" type posts please.

If it isn't a recipe then discuss on this thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?p=519175#post519175

[45nut]

Bullshops Speed Green:

Beeswax and Bullplate.
The mix is by weight 3 to 1, 3 beeswax to 1 bull plate.

Bullplate can be purchased from http://bullshop.gunloads.com/

Good thread to refer to:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=25037&highlight=speed+green

[45nut]

Felix Lube formula from Waksupi's thread:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=17548

2 Tablespoons mineral oil
1 Tablespoon castor oil
1 Tablespoon Ivory, or homemade soap (grated)
1 Tablespoon Lanolin
Beeswax - Piece approximately 3 1/2" X 3 1/2" X 1 "

Heat mineral (baby) oil until it starts to smoke.

Add castor oil, and stir continuously for 1/2 hour.

Sliver the soap, and stir into the mixture a little at a time, until melted.

Add the beeswax before the lanolin, and then when that is melted, reduce or remove the heat and add the lanolin, thus not running any risk of burning or scorching the lanolin.

1 teaspoon of carnuba wax can be added to give a shiny bore. This can be found on the seal of Makers Mark whiskey, or the red wax on cheese from the supermarket.

Once made, let cool. This can be remelted in a microwave, and poured into the lubrisize

[warf73]

Warf's Pistol Lube:

Beeswax & Virgin Olive oil.

Melt 8 oz. of bees wax then add 8oz. of Olive oil. Stir for apox. 2mins on low heat.

This mix runs threw a Star without a heat supply.
You can also use this mix as lip balm.


Warf

[Junior1942]

Junior's 411 or Pinko Commie *** lube.

Over heat, mix by volume 4 parts beeswax, 1 part Dexron ATF, 1 part lithium auto grease.

The lithium grease will tend to form little blobs, so squeeze them against the side of the melting container with a spatula.

411 works fine in a 450 sizer-lubricator. Just melt and fill the reservoir. I've shot it to 1900 fps with no leading in Model 94 30-30.

[utk]

"California Saeco Green"
2 lbs Beeswax
2 lbs Paraffin
1 lb STP Oil Treatment
------------------------------------------------------------
Old NRA lube formula
1 part Beeswax
1 part Paraffin
1 part Vaseline
All parts by volume
------------------------------------------------------------
In a post by Chargar 071219:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=23191&highlight=comprendo
60% Beeswax
40% Vaseline
"Has worked for almost 50 years in handgun and rifle loads up to 1,9 or 2k fps".
-----------------------------------------------------------
Barry Darr’s Lube
1 lb Paraffin
1 lb Vaseline
2 tablespoons (30 ml) STP Oil Treatment
-----------------------------------------------------------
Modified Barry Darr lube
1 lb. Paraffin
1 lb. Vaselin
No STP
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

[jonk]

A good blackpowder lube recommended by another board member (I've also used it in low pressure handgun loads, no problems):

I shot BPCR Sil for fifteen years. Emmert's Home Mix (50% pure natural beeswax, 40% Original Crisco and 10% Canola Oil) makes a very successful lube for Black Powder. I have since modified the original formula by reducing the Canola Oil to 5% and adding 5% Anhydrous Lanolin. The lanolin makes the lube stick to the bullet better over time and does a slightly better job overall. Be sure and use a double boiler to melt it to avoid overheating the lube. Over heating will KILL it for bullet lube. Your receipe is almost the same as mine, and I've been using mine for years.

You may substitute olive oil for the canola oil, the olive oil has a higher flash point and works very good as well.

The trick is to keep everything natural, no oil based products (vaseline). The crisco is vegetable based as well as the olive oil. The beeswax, because of it's exposure to the honey, will naturally repel bacteria, thus prevent the lube from going rancid and drying out.

[Lead melter]

WWVA lube;
4 oz. paraffin
4 oz petroleum jelly
2 oz. Lee Liquid Alox
2 heaping tablespoons Johnsons Paste Wax [carnuba wax]
Heat components until all melted, then pan or dip lube. May require a heater for the Lyman or RCBS lubrisizers.

Sweet lube;
equal parts beeswax and petroleum jelly.
Heat until melted. If you don't like it for boolit lube, it will work for hand lotion or lip balm. Plus it smells good enough to eat.

[Hip's Ax]

Well, you asked for it. This is the entire contents of my lube recipe file. I picked these up all over the net over the last few years. Some are repeats, of course the first one is for sure. Amount of text is too long for a single post, I'll split it into two.

************************************************** ***************

Felix Lube formula (for smokeless)

2 Tablespoons mineral oil
1 Tablespoon castor oil
1 Tablespoon Ivory, or homemade soap (grated)
1 Tablespoon Lanolin
Beeswax - Piece approximately 3 1/2" X 3 1/2" X 1 "

Heat mineral (baby) oil until it starts to smoke.

Add castor oil, and stir continuously for 1/2 hour.

Sliver the soap, and stir into the mixture a little at a time, until melted.

Add the beeswax before the lanolin, and then when that is melted, reduce or remove the
heat and add the lanolin, thus not running any risk of burning or scorching the lanolin.

1 teaspoon of carnauba wax can be added to give a shiny bore. This can be found on the
seal of Makers Mark whiskey, or the red wax on cheese from the supermarket.

Once made, let cool. This can be remelted in a microwave, and poured into the lubrisizer.

************************************************** ****************************************

Lube Formula - Colorado Shooters

1/3 Candle Wax (140 Degree F Melting Point)
1/3 Cosmoline
1/3 Bowl Wax
4 oz. Olive Oil added per pound of lube

Ratio's are approximate and are non-critical. A little more or a little less of any
component seems to make no difference in performance. Candle wax is available at any
hobby store, which sells candle-making supplies. Cosmoline is available in small
quantities from suppliers such as Midway, USA, Inc. 1-800-243-3220 or
http://www.midwayusa.com . Bowl wax is available in any Home Depot or similar store.

************************************************** ****************************************

Buck Emmert's Lube Formula (for black powder)

1750 grains Beeswax
1368 grains Crisco Shortening (White)
328 grains Crisco or Wesson Vegatable Oil

This recipe makes 1/2 pound lubricant. If you tray lube as I do, you'll probably
want to double the recipe.

************************************************** *****************************************

Barry Darr's Lube Formula

1 lb. Paraffin
1 lb. Vaseline
2 Tbsp. STP

Somebody told me this is Barry Darr's Lube Formula. It's been around for years - a great
lube for pan lubing bullets.

************************************************** *******************************************

California Saeco Green: 2 parts beeswax, 2 parts paraffin and 1 part STP (parts by weight)

************************************************** *******************************************

In my opinion unless you are only striving for a slow pistol lube you are wasting your time
with parraffin, you would be served better by using beeswax, or microcrystalline wax. I
have done alot of playing with lubes and parraffin always failed as a main ingredient.
Any concoction I have tried with more than 15 percent parraffin has failed to reach rifle
velocities. Try mixing this one up and see if it serves you for the higher end loads:



1 lb beeswax
1 TBLSP vaseline
1 teaspoon johnson paste wax


This would be considered a hard lube, but the addition of more vaseline would make it
softer to suit your desires. The johnsons might not be totally neccessary, but I think
it helps to keep the bore shiny. Whatever you do do not add a penetrating oil like kroil
to a lube, it must actually enter the pores of the bullet, cause it has caused leading in
recipes that previously did not lead. Keep the kroil for cleaning that is where it shines.

************************************************** *******************************************

Junior Lube
exactly 3 fluid ozs of melted lard

exactly 400 grs of solid beeswax

exactly 100 grs of Alox solid bullet lube.

************************************************** *******************************************

BPCR LUBE
1 pound Bees Wax

1 pound Citronella Candle

2 Tablespoons shortening

************************************************** *******************************************

Pistol Lube
1 part Beeswax

.75 parts petroleum jelly

.25 parts parafin (candle wax)


Rifle Lube
1 part Beeswax

.75 parts petroleum jelly

.25 parts parafin (candle wax)

I use the above recipe , doubled , then I add four tablespoons of automatic transmisson
fluid a four ounce bottle of LEEs liquid alox and a extra half pound of candle wax. I
adjust the amount of candle wax for winter and summer shooting......., a little softer
for winter and a little stiffer for summer.

I know, yall were expecting the "eye of newt" thing right? Sorry, its just not that big
of a deal.I use the lube with everything I shoot and I never have any leading problems.
I shoot a 170 gr cast bullet in a Model 94 over 29 grains of IMR 4895 with a magnum primer
useing this lube and never have I had any lead left in the barrel. Thats a jacketed bullet
load guys!As soon as I get the chrony in Ill get yall some numbers for that load .

One hint, if you can get your hands on a quanity of carnuba wax, use that in place of the
regular candle wax. I dont know what it is about that stuff but it will polish your bore
better than anything Ive ever seen , and a smooth bore is probably the single greatest
mechanical factor affecting lead bullet performance.

************************************************** *****************************************

I've had better luck with my Emmert's with lanolin than I have with SPG. Emmert's is,
as I understand it, an old Schuetzen lube, and it's simple and easy to make - always a
plus. It's

50% beeswax,
40% white Crisco (like Mama used to make biscuits with) and
10% canola cooking oil.

To that I've added about 6-7% anhydrous lanolin. The lanolin is a
good high temp, high pressure lube and it's sticky. It helps the lube stick to the
bullets, and helps make it better for pan lubing. Sure has seemed to keep the fouling
softer than the SPG seemed to, or at least in my gun it has.
The anhydrous lanolin can be ordered from your local pharmacy, but it'll probably be
cheaper to order it. Try a search for Majestic Mountain Sage. Can't remember the url
at the moment. It'll probably save you some money. The beeswax can also be had there,
if you have trouble finding a local bee keeper to get it from. The Crisco and canola
oil are at your local grocery.

Good lube, IMO. I shoot it in a Saeco #745 bullet, and that bullet is oft criticized for
barely carrying enough lube. Works in my 30" barrel, anyway. FWIW?

************************************************** ***************************************


Lead pots Lube. (Blackpowder lube)

6 cups unmelted soy wax.
½ cup Jojoba oil.
½ cup mutton tallow, or you can use beef tallow. I don’t like it as well.
1/3 cup unsalted lard.
1/3 cup liquid Bayberry wax.

This is a good lube I made it for my knurled bullets.
You can thicken this out by adding soy or using less to thin it or add more lard to make
it softer
If it gets to hot add Palm Vegetable wax or use block Bayberry wax instead of liquid
Bayberry wax.
Palm wax melts at about 160*

If you cant find Tallow it is easy enough to make.
Go to a butcher shop and ask for fat trimmings most will gladly give to you.
Cut it in small chunks or better yet grind it. Put it in a large pot and ½ the amount
of water and slow boil it for about 4 hours at a low temp.
Strain it out with a sieve or cheese cloth and cool it in the fridge.
When solid take off the solid white top and scrape off the bottom till it is clean.
By the way this stuff makes a darn good hand lotion for those bleeding fingers.

************************************************** ***************************************
SMOKELESS

I got tired of being accused of shooting BP on the centerfire line (Alox-beeswax) and
used lube recipes offered on the cast bullet list by Adrian Pittfield and John Paul Jones.

Adrian's Goo ( AKA lithi-Bee)
1 part Beeswax
1 part Lithium auto lube cartridge
mix with heat do not exceed flashpoint labeled on cartridge (225degrees iirc) does not
require heat to lube bullets

Recipe for Saeco Green Bullet Lube (A soft lube, equal to 50/50 Alox/Beewax)
2 lbs Beeswax
2 lbs Paraffin
1 lb STP Oil Treatment
(It is possible that a small amount of Stearic Acid (Stearine) will make the lube harder.)
(Temperature 140F (60C) for lube sold currently by Redding).

Saeco Green is less smoky than Adrian's Goo and both are less smoky than Alox Beeswax but
needs 105 degrees (41C) in luber-sizer. YODAR
(It is probable that Yodar used a candle wax with stearine instead of pure paraffin. That
would explain the need for a lube heater).

************************************************** *****************************************

SMOKELESS

This is "ole Junior." My 411 lube is by volume

4 parts cleaned Mississippi Delta cotton field beeswax
1 part lithium automotive grease
1 part Dexron ATF fluid

Heat and
mix well. If the lithium doesn't want to blend, carefully increase heat.

When cooled, the lube is pink in color but otherwise the consistency of Alox stick. The
lube is also easy to make--and cheap. Also good for pan lubing. I figure enough to equal
the volume of an Alox stick cost 25 cents vs $3.50+ for the Alox stick.
I've tested 411 lube extensively in two Model 94 30-30 rifles to 1950 fps with a few rounds
going 2000 fps+. All results equaled zero leading and a mirror-like bore. When my 450
Lubrisizer runs out of Alox stick, I'm pouring the reservoir full of 411.

************************************************** ******************************************
Black Powder

from an old American Rifleman magazine

10 pounds paraffin (40%)
10 pounds tallow (40%)
5 pounds beeswax (20%)

They say that mutton tallow is best but beef tallow works just fine

************************************************** ******************************************
The February 1943 issue of the American Rifleman (p.31) has an excellent article on bullet
lubrication.
Though nearly 60 years old, this article is still valuable.
Within it are two old-time recipes for bullet lubricant worth passing along. These are both
recipes used by factory ammo-makers long ago, in the 19th century and perhaps before that.
I have used the recipe for outside-lubricated bullets for some time. It is nearly identical
to SPG Lubricant.
I have used it in reloading the .32 Long Colt with outside lubricated bullets and it works
very well.
I also soak felt wads with it, for use between the ball and powder in my cap and ball
revolvers and it works great. The bore bears only a trace of fouling when such a greased
wad is used under the ball. Seat the greased felt wad firmly down on the powder, then go
back and seat the ball.
I've also used it to a limited extent for lubricating soft lead bullets in my .45-70 with
black powder loads, with success.
This outside-lubricated bullet lube was once used in .22 rimfires and center fires such as
the .32, .38 and .41 Long Colt.
It is still useful today.
I mix it in a quart Mason jar, set in a low pan of boiling water. The ingredients are
measured then added to the jar. I stir them with a disposable chopstick found at oriental
restaurants. When cool and set-up, tighten the lid on the lubricant and store it in a
cool, dry place.
This creates a medium-hard lubricant that really softens black powder fouling.

I have not used the inside-lubricated bullet lubricant but thought it might be of interest
for those who wish to duplicate the old-time loads, right down to the lubricant

OUTSIDE LUBRICATED BULLET LUBE
1 part paraffin (I use paraffin sticks found in the canning section of grocery stores).
1 part tallow (I use sheep tallow, sold by Dixie Gun Works)
1/2 part beeswax (Available as a toilet seal in hardware stores)

CENTER FIRE BULLET LUBRICANT
9 parts Japan Wax (available from Dixie Gun Works or some hardware stores in the furniture
refinishing area).
4-1/2 parts paraffin
4-1/2 parts beeswax

A few more things: I suggest you mix these outside to avoid friction with the Hausfrau.
And always use a double-boiler method, or set your jar in a heavy iron skillet and use a
low temperature to melt and mix the ingredients.
These lubricants will flash and catch on fire if subjected to higher temperatures, just
as any grease will.
Keep a box of Baking Soda handy, away from the stove (so you don't have to reach across
flames to get it) to extinguish any fire. Throwing water on the grease fire will only
spread it.

Enjoy these old bullet lubricants.

************************************************** ******************************************

[Hip's Ax]

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ideal Handbook #15
From the Ideal Handbook, ca. 1904:
Recipe #1: Three parts beeswax to two parts cylinder oil
Recipe #2: Vaseline with enough parafin as required to harden it
Recipe #3: Japan wax with sperm whale oil to soften it
Notes:
'Japan Wax' is the wax of the carnauba tree. Commonly used as ski wax.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Horace Kephart's Lube
From the Ideal Handbook, ca. 1904:
"Melt over a slow fire three parts of of crude ozocerite and two parts vaseline. That is
all there is to it. The proportions may be varied to suit individual notions; but I have
found that the above compund needs no modification for any range of temperature that we
have at St. Louis. "
From Sharpe:
"Horace Kephart's lubricant. Crude ozocerite, 3 parts; vaseline, 2 parts. Melt together
in a double boiler. If too hard for your rifle, soften it by adding more vaseline." Notes:
Horace Kephart is the designer of the Kephart style of bullet.
Ozocerite is a mineral wax dug out of the ground like coal. The refined wax goes under the
name cerasine. The refined version does not work as well as the crude.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Ballard
From a conversation with a friend:
"Half beeswax, half toilet wax"
This is what I was told when I found a coffee can marked 'Tom's Magic Lube' in a friends
reloading room.
Notes:
Tom Ballard is a mould maker here in Montana
'Toilet Wax' is, I am told, the wax gasket applied when installing a toilet. Stranger
things have been used.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Niedner Mixture
From Sharpe's Handloading:
Japan Wax Acheson's graphite #1340
"To a half pound of of melted Japan Wax add four heaping tablespoons of powdered Acheson's
graphite #1340. The melted mixture must not be too hot, and the graphite must be added a
little at a time and stirred continuously. When the entire amount has been added, remove
the mixture from the heat supply, and continue stirring. This is very important. If left
to stand in a melted mixture the graphite will seperate from the wax.
Notes:
I have no idea about the Acheson's #1340
'Japan Wax' is the wax of the carnauba tree. Commonly used as ski wax.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Herrick Mixture
From Sharpe's Handloading:
Japan Wax Beeswax Cylinder or castor oil
"...equal parts of beeswax and Japan wax with a small quantity of cylinder oil or castor
oil, the latter added primarily to soften the mass...the smallest amount should be used.
The oil will 'sweat out' if lubricated bullets or loaded cartridges are stored for several
months."
Notes:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Henry Beverage Lube
From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Yellow vaseline 2 oz. mutton tallow 4 oz. japan wax 10 oz. beeswax 6 oz. crude ozocerite
6 oz. gunslick grease 1 tube per 6 oz. of mixture
Notes:
Formula atrributed to Leopold
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Charlie Dell #36
From Shooter's Talk:
Lithium stearate - 1 part by weight 600W worm gear oil - 1 part beeswax - 1 part lanolin -
1 part synaceti - 1 part
Mix everything except the beeswax at about 400 degrees F. Mix will melt, then jell, then
melt again. Pour in the melted beeswax and bring back up to heat until it all melts and no
gel remains.
Notes:
Synaceti 125 is available from some candle shops and is a substitute for spermacetti.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Charlie Dell #48
From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Beeswax - 10 parts by weight Peanut oil - 5 parts anhydrous lanolin - 4 parts lithium
stearate - 5 parts gunslick grease - 1 tube per 6 oz. of mixture
The waxes and oils are melted together and allowed to cool until they just start to harden.
Then the Li stearate is mixed in. It will look like tan mud. Reheat and keep raising the
temp. stirring at frequent intervals. First it will start to gel and turn translucent,
then will finally melt around 400F. It must be poured into moulds at this point because
when the temp drops slightly it will gel again.
Notes:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Charlie Dell #53
From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Beeswax 20 gm. anhydrous lanolin 5 gm. castile soap (Kirks) 2 gm. castor oil 5 gm.
Notes:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Manny, Hil, & Metzler
From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Tallow 1 oz. ozocerite 2 oz. japan wax 2 oz. beeswax 5 oz. steam cyl. oil 1 oz.
Notes:
This is probably an excellent pan lube
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Leopold #245 - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Japan wax 4 1/2 oz. tallow 9 oz. ozocerite 1 1/2 oz. lye 1/2 oz. rosin 1/2 oz. water 8 oz.
Boil until froth disappears. Mix, boil with lye and water, cool and remove cake from water,
wash and form into sticks for pump. High melting point, not for pan lube.
Notes:
This is probably typical of Leopolds formulas.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Donaldson's Lube - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Beef tallow 6 oz. beeswax 4 oz. rosin 2 oz.
Notes:
Harvey Donaldson was a responsible for several cartridges inc. the .219 Donaldson Wasp.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
N.H. Robert's #1 - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Beeswax 6 oz. beef tallow 2oz steam cyl. oil 3 tsp.
Notes:
Ned Roberts was the designer of the .257 Roberts ----------------------------------
N.H. Robert's #2 - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Crude Ozocerite 1 part yellow beeswax 1 part Japan wax 1 part mutton tallow 1 part
Notes:
Ned Roberts was the designer of the .257 Roberts
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roderick #1 Hard - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Beeswax 4 oz. mutton tallow 3 1/8 oz. Mobil 600 wt, steam cyl. oil 7/8 oz.
Notes:
For use at 80 deg. F and above
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roderick #2 Medium - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Beeswax 3 1/8 oz. Mutton tallow 4 oz. Mobil 600 wt. steam cyl. oil 7/8 oz.
Notes:
For use between 55 and 80 deg. F
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pope Lube - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Beeswax 2 oz. Bayberry wax 4 oz. mutton tallow 6 oz. steam cyl. oil 2 oz. Acheson graphite
#1340 170 gr.
Notes:
If you don't know who Harry Pope was, your mommy shouldn't be letting you play with bullets.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Barry Darr #1 - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Paraffin 50% Vasaline 50% old RCBS case lube 1 tbs per lb. of mix
Notes:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Barry Darr #2 - From the Cast Bullet Mailing List (CB-L):
Paraffin 50% Vasaline 50%
Notes:
Same as Barry Darr #1 but minus the RCBS case lube

************************************************** ******************************************

"Have you ever lubed rifle bullets to be launched beyond 2K fps with just beeswax blended
with a little jojoba oil?"

YES, I have it will work, but I still like the liquid lanolin because of the flex and tack
it supplies. Plus it allows me to make a soft enough lube without inducing flyers.

pure jojoba oil added at the rate of 2 TBLSP's per pound "works" but it has no flex and in
my simulated winter shooting tests I had erratic performance. simply adding more did not
make the brittle nature or standard deviation problem go away.

1TBLSP jojoba and 1TBLSP liquid lanolin to 1 pound cappings grade yellow hard beeswax will
cover 90 percent of what any of us wants in a lube. Adding johnsons seems to shinify the
bore, but it makes the lube too soft so you need more wax, and the orange oil seems to
also have a solvent effect so I keep it. Before I knew it I ended up with the 5 pound
batches I quoted earlier. The ivory is not totally neccessary either, but if you cool
it rapidly in the freezer you will see why it can be important, plus it raises melt point
a bit. I have also played with some recipes using microcrysstalline wax, but they need
some tweaking yet. For the most part of this journey I have simply thought too hard, but
in the end I am happy with this.

MIKES MAGICAL MYSTERY LUBE
5 lbs beeswax
1 TBLSP Ivory
1 TBLSP Jojoba
2 TBLSP natural orange oil
1 TBLSP Johnsons p.w
1 TBLSP liquid lanolin
colored candle dye or chips of you choosing ( I will use orange or red if I ever run low
on lube) which will be at least a day or two.

I just hope I spared at least one person from going through the insanity of it all. It was
an expensive lesson, but fun none the least.

EDIT: One more thing DO NOT ever add something like kroil to a lube I did and it showed
promise at first, but a couple a weeks later them loads leaded to beat the band. All I
can figure is that the kroil slowly creeps into the pores of the lead and actually softens
the skin of a boolit.
************************************************** ******************************************
The only thing I do know about this recipe is...it came from Dan Theodore, and it was
posted on the BPCR (dot) net site a long time ago.
CM

"Great For Hot, Dry Conditions" - sourced from Dan Theodore

Ingredients, Procedures, Notes, etc.

All measures are by volume.

4 parts refined beeswax
2 parts LubeGard's "Valve and Assembly Lubricant"
2 parts anhydrous lanolin.

OR

5 parts refined beeswax
3 parts LubeGard
2 parts anhydous lanolin. "This makes a dandy lube for dry, hot conditions."

Note: LubeGard should be available at any NAPA Auto Supply store.
Note: Refined beeswax and anhydrous lanolin are available from:
http://www.from-nature-with-love.com/soap/.

Melt the beeswax and anhydrous lanolin in a double boiler. Once both are well melted,
add the LubeGard and stir for a minute. This lube works well for pan-lubing, as well
as through a lube-sizer.
************************************************** ******************************************
I have used Emmert's Home Mix for both Black Powder and Smokeless loads with excellent
results:
50% pure natural beeswax, 40% Crisco, and 10% Canola Oil (all measurements by volume).
Melt using a double boiler (overheating damages the lube).

A refinement is to reduce the Canola Oil by half and replace that half with Anhydrous
Lanolin. So, the improved Emmert's is:
50% beeswax, 40% Crisco, 5% Canola Oil, and 5% Lanolin.

************************************************** ******************************************
************************************BPCR.net lube list**************************************


50% Beeswax
50% Ballistol

Vary the Beeswax up or down for a patch lube or bullet lube. I melt the Beeswax in a Pyrex
Measuring cup in the microwave. Then add the Ballistol, stir, and pour into a plastic
microwavable container to cool. It can easily be re-melted to adjust the mixture.

The rich, pungent, aroma of the Ballistol adds to the enjoyment.

Jack Roberts, silhoutte4570


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


"Great For Hot, Dry Conditions" - sourced from Dan Theodore

Ingredients, Procedures, Notes, etc.

All measures are by volume.

4 parts refined beeswax
2 parts LubeGard's "Valve and Assembly Lubricant"
2 parts anhydrous lanolin.

OR

5 parts refined beeswax
3 parts LubeGard
2 parts anhydous lanolin. "This makes a dandy lube for dry, hot conditions."

Note: LubeGard should be available at any NAPA Auto Supply store.
Note: Refined beeswax and anhydrous lanolin are available from:
http://www.from-nature-with-love.com/soap/.

Melt the beeswax and anhydrous lanolin in a double boiler. Once both are well melted,
add the LubeGard and stir for a minute. This lube works well for pan-lubing, as well
as through a lube-sizer.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



"Emmerts" - provided by Ken Hurst

This is an old lube but still has a following and has never failed me when using it
for Black Powder. I understand it can be used for smokeless if you are using
low-pressure loads.

50% bees wax
40% Crisco or lard
10% canola oil

I heat this in a dbl boiler to mix. Do not heat in a micro wave as it offers too much
heat usually. I fill my lubasizer with the lube while it is hot and it works well. I
have also pan lubed with good success.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



"1995 Lube" - sourced from Paul Matthews

2 parts yellow beeswax
1 part Pure Neatsfoot Oil
1 part Murphy’s Oil Soap

(easy to make in 8-oz batches)

1) Melt 4 oz of beeswax in the microwave. Usually 6-8 minutes is about the right time.
2) Stir in 2 oz of Neatsfoot oil when beeswax is melted. Stir until the mixture is lumpfree.
3) Stir in 2 oz of Murphy’s Oil Soap, stirring continuously as the soap is added. Again,
mix until there are no lumps.
4) Pour into storage containers as soon as batch is well mixed.

Very soft and sticky. Will not melt in the sun, but works well in the cold, too.
NOT suitable for pan lubing.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



“Shows Promise Lube” - sourced from Paul Matthews

8 oz Yellow Beeswax
4 fl oz Pure Neatsfoot Oil
1 cake (3 .5 oz) Neutrogena Facial Soap

1) melt the beeswax over a low fire
2) stir in the neatsfoot oil until lumpfree
3) cut the soap into fine peels, then add to the melted mixture.

Don’t boil the mixture. A very sticky bullet lube. Looks to be very good.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Here are some bullet lubes I have used with very good results in the hot shooting
weather of the west. - Mystery Guest

13 oz of beeswax
5 oz of peanut oil
1/2 stick of 50/50 alox
1 oz of anhydrous lanolin

6 oz of beef tallow
4 oz bayberry wax
2 oz beeswax
2 oz synthetic sperm oil
1 heaping teaspoon of Moly

6 oz of beeswax
3 oz of bayberry wax
6 oz of bacon grease
1 tablespoon of Dawn soap
2 tablespoon of neatsfoot oil

40% beeswax
30% conola oil
30% lanolin
......................this looks and feels a lot like SPG

70% Soywax
20% Avocado oil
10% lanolin
......................this is good for cooler weather, spring/fall


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Emmerts – for Texas Heat - source unknown

50% beeswax
40% Crisco
10% jojoba by volume

.......................this lube will not foul a .45-2.6 34” barrel


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Recipe One

One part clean beeswax
Three parts rendered and refined deer tallow
One part stale canola oil (kitchen reject don't you know)
Powdered graphite (I don't think the graphite play much of a part as it settled out in
cooling)

I just shot my C.Sharps hunting gun (74) for the first time at any distance two weeks
ago and got a three and a half inch 4 shot group at 300 measued yards with this lube,
a Saeco 411 gr 40 cal. bullet silver blade front sight and C. Sharps 108 hunting tang
sight cranked up as high as it would go. I would have gone for more rounds but I ran
out after walking them up on to the target. I had never shot it farther than 100 yards
before. It is a 40-70 SS and I used 70 gr by volume of older Goex 2f. I'm a little
worried about the powder. I store it in a chicken coop in a styrofoam cooler and when
I tried to pour it out of the can there were big lumps in it. I had to shake the heck
out of it to break up the lumps. It has been froze and thawed on and off for at least
5 years maybe longer. I bought it from Coonie's back when Goex was $6.03 per can in
case lots with shipping. I used this lube to kill a couple of deer and to shoot bowling
pins and steel targets in the yard.

Another traditional one I like. (I substitute jojoba for sperm whale oil.)

One part clean beeswax
Three parts rendered then refined buffalo tallow
One part Jojoba oil (killed a buffalo with this one)

Cold weather muzzle loader patch lube is:

Two parts rendered then refined coon oil (two coons will provide a quart or more of
rendered oil and good barbeque plus 20 bucks for the hides)
One part buffalo tallow (this lube melts as you rub it into the patch even below zero)

After I render oils and fats I recook them with water for a while then let them cool
until they crust over. I break the floating disc off the water and scrape off the dirt
and jelly like junk that clings to the bottom of the disc. I do this to try to eliminate
any naturally occuring salts in the animal fat. I used to bear oil my muzzle loaders
and they'd rust over night in a damp tent until I started water cooking the salt outa
the fat.

Duke Munger

[357maximum]

Two recipes that I use that were designed for groups in mind, not leading. Both will give a grey wash with certain antimonial alloys in HOT j-word velocity loads, but no “LEADING”. Both can be made more pan-friendly with the addition of a small amount of alox 350.


Simply Accurate Lube
10 lbs #1 yellow capping grade beeswax
1 lb canning paraffin
26 ozs White Petrolatum (2-13 Oz tubs) (dollar store generic Vaseline tm)
5 fl ozs Permatex “Ultra Slick” tm (valve assembly lube)
1 cup Home rendered deer tallow
2 fl oz Natural orange oil
Just melt it all together and stir occasionally cook at 270 degrees for longer than you think you should. Use in a warm lubrisizer, not a pan friendly lube by any stretch of the imagination, designed for accuracy not handling.



MIKES MAGICAL MYSTERY LUBE
Follow the directions for Felix World Famous Lube
5 lbs beeswax
1 TBLSP Ivory
1 TBLSP Jojoba
2 TBLSP natural orange oil
1 TBLSP Johnsons p.w
1 TBLSP liquid lanolin

[Molly]

From Molly:

Lee and Lyman sell "liquid Alox", and it works pretty well.

The formula for Alox 2138F (no longer available) is as follows:

Material Wt %
Melt in a double boiler:
Alox 350 7.00 (The exact amount isn’t critical. Use 10 or 20 parts if you want.)
Slowly stir in until dissolved
Petrolite C-700 3.00 (Microcrystalline wax)
Blend until fully melted and dissolved.
Add slowly with good mixing:
Alox 350 90.00 (Remainder for a total of 97 parts Alox 350)
Blend until uniform. 100.00 Alox 2138F

To make the NRA lube, you can now add 100 parts weight of melted clean, pure yellow beeswax to the preceding and mix well.

The NRA lube can be molded as you may desire. I’ve found it convenient to just pour it into small cans or even muffin tins. When I need to refill a sizer, it’s simple enough to set the can (or a muffin sized block in an aluminum measuring cup) in simmering hot water to melt the lube, and pour it into the sizer. Allow to cool well before using.

If you simply MUST have it in stick form, solder a tube of the desired diameter near the bottom of a gallon can, and open on both sides, and deburr. Fill the can with water and ice, and pour the tube full of molten lube. It'll harden pretty quickly, and can be pushed out with a stick. If you MUST have a hollow tube of lube, insert an old valve rod in the center opposite the fill side. (Play with a jig to hold it center.)Then pull it out before you eject the lube.

Alox 350 is one of a series of "oxidized petroleum fractions" (ie, partially burnt grease) originally developed by Alox Corp, of Niagra Falls, NY. However, they are now defunct, and the Alox line has been taken over by Lubrizol Corporation, who discontinued the Alox 2138F as too low in sales volume, but continues to offer the Alox 350 and a number of other Alox products, including the stuff sold as "Liquid Alox". You should be able to find them easily on the net at: http://corporate.lubrizol.com/.

Regards,
Molly

[44man]

Felix lube, I cut a 3-1/2" by 3-1/2" by 1" block of beeswax and it comes out to 6 oz. Lube is a little soft so I would go to about 7 oz. Maybe even 8 oz. Can't hurt anything. I have to harden a batch to see. I don't like paraffin that much so will try just beeswax. I have carnauba if needed.

[Dick Dastardly]

Equal parts by weight.

Container blend Soy wax flakes
wax toilet bowl ring
cheep vegetable shortening

Melt in double boiler with occasional stirring. Pour in forms.

The formula for Pearl Lube II will not be given.:)

DD-DLoS

[yeahbub]

There may be similar ones posted, but here are what I use:

541:
5 parts beeswax
4 parts Crisco
1 part anhydrous lanolin, by volume
Melt and stir until thoroghly mixed before allowing to cool. A double boiler keeps it from scorching. It works well on conventional cast boolits, but I've never driven it beyond 1800fps or so. Hardness can be adjusted to suit by varying the Crisco or the beeswax. Melts at 130 deg F.

541 Soft:
1 part 541
1 part Bore Butter/Thompson Center 1000 Plus in the tube, by volume.
I prefer the pine scented Bore Butter. Melt and stir thoroughly and allow to cool. Works great for lube cookies when made into sheets by melting in the outside bottoms of "butter cookie cans" on a level surface with a heat lamp, cooling, and putting in the freezer when solid, which will pop it loose. Also good for under-the-ball/boolit use in C&B revolvers with an over-the-powder card wad, on Maxis, Lee R.E.A.Ls & cetera.

[buck1]

This one works well for high vel rifle as well as mag pistol in hot and COLD weather.
It stays on the boolits well, does not run on hot days, and flows without heat through my lube sizer.
I love this stuff! Its a cross between Joes/ leftoverjds with a few tricks from Felixs WFL.
In a crock pot melt 3 parts bees wax and 1 part lithum wheel bearing grease. to about 300 F its hard to mix.
-----Caution this is close to the flash point of the bees wax.---------
Mix, mix and mix some more and let cool. as bees wax can vary in hardness you can now get a rough idea of what you have. Look for a uniform mix (no little lumps) of the grease.
Now reheat and mix again as you still most likely have some little lumps to deal with and add small ammounts of carnauba wax to stiffen (paraffin would mess up the cold weather aspect of this lube).
Repeate this melting and testing several times untill you get the stiffness you like. It seems to help the lube mix better by cooling and reheating many times anyway. But do it outside and dont forget about the flash point.
Nothing else that I have made or bought will do as well for me as this stuff!

[Shrek]

This lube has worked well for me winter or summer. I use it mostly on rifle because my pistol bullets tend to be TL from Lee.
I got the base recipe from a gent by the handle of dmell.
By weight:
40 parts UNREFINED bee's wax
20 parts paraffin wax
20 parts Lucas oil stabilizer (high-grade, better than STP) or Morey's.
either 2 large kindergarten crayons or 1 wafer candle die, for color.
Heat the bee's wax over low heat, then add para. and stir until melted
Add the Lucas/Morey's and colorant and stir until well mixed.
I have ran this to about 2100 fps on 210 grain 308 bullets in my '06, with no signs of leading.
Never had it melt off, if I kept the ammo out of direct sunlight. This is Arizona, take that into account. It gets a little stiff through my Lyman in the winter, wouldn't hurt to use a heater when it gets cool.
Shrek

[pjogrinc]

Original Sharps formula

1 part Beeswax
1 part Sperm oil

Since it is nearly impossible to find Sperm oil, use the following instead.

1 part Beeswax
1 part Jojoba oil

Works fantastic up to 1500 FPS, haven't tried any faster in handgun or 45-70. This lube formula is soft. You can harden it up by reducing Jojoba oil up to 1/2 part. Temperature range I've used this lube at has been 10 deg F to 70 deg F. Have not had a chance to try at higher temps yet.

Excellent accuracy out of my 45-70, 34 inch barrel. Have fired a 20 shot black powder string in just over 5 minutes, no cleaning or blowing down the barrel, group was just over 3 inches. Very low BP fowling and no leading. Barrel was very warm.

[miestro_jerry]

This is my Greased Lightening recipe

1/4 cup of Carnuba Wax flakes
8 ounces of Modern ALOX
8 ounces Synthetic ATF, this is the Vavoline MERCON V stuff meant for Fords
2 Tablespoons of Synthetic Grease, Vavoline Syn Power
2 pounds of Beeswax

This works for me with high power and fast bullets. Low smoke.

Jerry

[Cactus Farmer]

:Fire:Smokeless lube , melt 1 lb of bees wax with one tube of lithium (most is red) chassie lube( 14 oz tube. Mold in PVC tubes with or without dowel for hollow stick users. Do not over heat as this causes shrinkage issues. Very good high velosity rifle lube. 222 Remington 58 grain boolits to 2200fps with 0 leading.

Black powder lube. 1 lb bees wax and 1 lb of rendered sheep butt fat,the white stuff(not yellow belly fat). Natural lanolin in the stuff. The finished lube is great sizing lube. One stroke case forming 40-65 Win from 45-70 brass.

[smokemjoe]

J2 Lub.
3 Oz. Beewax
1 Fl. Oz. Dexron 3 Transmission Fluild
90 grs. powder Rosin
100 Grs. Ivory Soap.
Melt wax and oil until it foams on a stick.
Add soap until it smokes
Add rosin, stir and let cool.
Put in mold.
Works good in everything and all weather condition.

[missionary5155]

This is my all purpose use it on anything lube here in the Andes. 50 / 50 by weight or volume.. beeswax and axle grease. I have used it on 44-40 (rifle - pistol) , 38 special and 357 mag . No leading... great acuracy.

[sliverpicker]

hi guys! followed a link to here from a lube recipe thread on packing4life and love it. Something I haven't seen here yet is a tip I picked up on a candlemaking site while looking for wax: put the ingredients in a heavy zip-lock bag and drop it in boiling water........no smoke, no flash over. to get stearic acid to melt well I had to put the lid on for a couple minutes, as the top of the bag was cooling things down while the water was trying to heat them up.:-D

[rockrat]

This isn't a recepie, per se, as all the above are, but a mixture of commercially available lubes I mixed up, long before I found this website. So far, I can take a 725gr 0.512" dia and launch it out of a 1-15" twist gun, at 2,300 fps with decent accuracy (looong throat) and no leading.

3 sticks Lyman orange magic
2 sticks Lyman Super Moly
1 stick SPG
1 tsp moly powder


My reloading room is about 64 degrees in winter, lube is a little stiff,but does flow OK, fine in summer, when room is about 68 degrees.

[Marlin Junky]

I've beat the accuracy of LBT Soft Blue with the following ingredients:

1 to 1.5 pounds Beeswax
2 TBS red lithium high temp, high pressure grease (The stuff Wall-Mart sells in the blue can is fine)
8 TBS Petroleum Jelly
2 TBS Carnauba wax: http://www.oilsbynature.com/products/carnauba-wax-t1.htm (T3 is usually less money, but they're out of stock)

1) Melt the Petroleum Jelly and add the red lithium grease at a ratio of approximately 4:1. The Petroleum Jelly should be barely at the smoking point. Stir until the grease is completely dissolved. The lithium grease will dissolve in the PJ at a ratio of 3:1 but it takes longer. The advantage of less PJ would be an increased melting point. At 4:1 PJ to grease, my lube ends up stable to about 125F and I think the melt point is somewhere around 150F.

2) Add two tablespoons of Carnauba flakes and cook at barely the smoking point for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. This is best done in a well ventilated area.

3) Add the beeswax to the desired consistency (start with a pound) and bring the mixture to just barely the smoking point. Cook for about an hour, stirring occasionally.

If the lube ends up too hard, add PJ. If too soft, adding Carnauba is better than adding too much beeswax. Too much beeswax will make the lube crumbly which needs to be corrected by the addition of more PJ & grease combo. Don't try adding just red grease to the lube because it won't combine properly; i.e., it needs to be dissolved in PJ before combining with wax. If you add too much red grease, the lube will be oily on the surface which needs to be corrected with Carnauba. If this is the case, add the Carnauba slowly and cook the lube each time it's added. A single teaspoon of Carnauba can make a difference but it needs to be well blended in the lube.

Let me know how it works for you. My testing has been limited to a M77 in .358W and a M70 in 30-06, neither of which are 1MOA guns but the homemade lube consistently beats LBT Soft Blue in group size by 15% or more at 2100 to 2200 fps.

MJ

[Recluse]

Rebel Red.

This gives me extreme accuracy, very little smoke and no leading in my handgun rounds. Requires no heater. All ingredients except for one are very easy and inexpensive to find. The only one that you'll have to seek out a specialty shop for is the soft wax specifically for container candles.

This is important because not all candle waxes are created equally. The soft bricks made specially for container candles are softer because once melted, they will be poured into existing containers (for the new candles) and do not have to be stiff to stand upright on their own.

However, this stuff is SUPERB as a base for boolit lube and a little goes a LONG way. Do not let the stickiness/tackiness upon first contact scare you off. Once it is melted and then cools, it firms up nicely and almost all of the tackiness goes away.

Here is the formula:

2 oz by weight of soft container candle wax
3 oz by measurement of ATF (doesn't matter which type)
3 oz by measurement of Marvel Mystery Oil
1 heaping tablespoon Johnsons Paste Wax
1 tablespoon of powdered/shaved Ivory Soap
1 teaspoon of Lee Liquid Alox
1/4 teaspoon Permatex anti-seize lube
Beeswax as needed to firm up to personal preference

Let the container candle wax melt. I mix mine up in an old dollar store pot on top of a hot plate set at 350 F. When candle wax is completely melted, pour in 3 oz of ATF fluid. Stir in completely and continue to stir for at least one or two minutes until mix has come back up to temperature.

Add 3 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil. Repeat stiring until mix has come back up to temperature.

Add the heaping tablespoon of JPW, repeat. Add the LLA. This will take a lot of stirring and you may need to increase the burner heat. Once mixed in, add a level tablespoon of Ivory soap powder/small shavings (I use a fine grater to get me the powder form). Stir in well.

When you add the 1/4 teaspoon of Permatex, it will make the mixture swirl and separate and look like an old 60's/70's psychodelic light show. Enjoy while you continue to cook and stir. The stuff will not mix 100% in, but does blend in nicely upon cooling.

Add in a couple of ounces of beeswax, stir in good then pour a sample out into a small container and let cool. I put the small container into the fridge.

What you're looking for now is firmness. If you use a heater with your lubesizer or prefer to pan lube, you can add more beeswax for firmness/hardness. If you prefer a bit softer lube that flows well, check firmness by hand and add beeswax as needed.

This is a pretty easy formula to mix up, doesn't require a double-boiler set up and you can manipulate the firmness by addition of beeswax. It shoots well for me and makes barrel cleanup a non-event. Enjoy.

:coffee:

[missionary5155]

Good morning
I re-read the above and thought about adding one simple easy to make lube that uses components available to everyone, probably at no cost. Paul Mathews Book (40 years with the 45-70) was the background for this.
55% old wax candles (the used stubbs the wife will not burn) and 45 % bearing grease.
Melt (OUTSIDE the house) the candle wax removing the strings and however much crud you can . Any smaller metal pan will work. Remember this is a flamable and WILL catch fire. Add the bearing grease (water pump grease was the origonal but what ever grease you have at home) and mix together. If to thin add another candle stub. If to thick a dobber more of grease. This "lube" works in my 357 mag (3.5" S&W 19.5) with the Lyman 358429 and 7 grains Unique no leading. Also in my 44-40 winny 1892 up to 10 grains Unique with the Saaco 443 (220+). No leading in either load. Naturally slower loads are =.
That is as fast as I can push this lube here with what I have.

[45nut]

Seems to have been majorly hijacked here,, I am going to split off some posts that are not,, "just the facts" as requested in the header of this post.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?p=519175#post519175
Is the thread for discussion, OK? Thanks!

[Recluse]

Just finished testing this variation on my Rebel Red formula. Haven't tested on rifle boolits at higher velocities, but my testing on handgun boolits up to 1500fps (checking for leading only and not accuracy at this velocity) was outstanding.

I'm going to "bold" the substituted ingredient and delete the others not needed/used.

Essentially, in place of ATF and MMO, I substituted Mercury's Quicksilver Outboard Lube. It's a dark green lube that is incredibly resiliant, yet very easy to work with. It mixes and blends very well.

Outboard and sterndrive (boat) engines are poster children for harsh, abusive conditions. Most are run WOT (Wide Open Throttle) for extended periods of time. Lot of owners rarely change their outdrive lube. So for as many drives that are out there and operating, I figure this stuff has to have some attributes I want in a lube.

Not sure when I'll get around to testing it with rifle boolits at extended velocities. Will report on it when I do.

Green Lube.

All ingredients except for one are very easy and inexpensive to find. The only one that you'll have to seek out a specialty shop for is the soft wax specifically for container candles.

This is important because not all candle waxes are created equally. The soft bricks made specially for container candles are softer because once melted, they will be poured into existing containers (for the new candles) and do not have to be stiff to stand upright on their own.

However, this stuff is SUPERB as a base for boolit lube and a little goes a LONG way. Do not let the stickiness/tackiness upon first contact scare you off. Once it is melted and then cools, it firms up nicely and almost all of the tackiness goes away.

Here is the formula:

2 oz by weight of soft container candle wax
5 oz of Quicksilver Outdrive Lube available at any boat service center, Bass Pro Shops, Cabela's, etc.
3 oz Johnsons Paste Wax
1/2 tablespoon of powdered/shaved Ivory Soap
1 teaspoon of Lee Liquid Alox
1/4 teaspoon Permatex anti-seize lube
Beeswax as needed to firm up to personal preference (you'll need a lot--probably half a pound or more)

Let the container candle wax melt. I mix mine up in an old dollar store pot on top of a hot plate set at 350 F. When candle wax is completely melted, pour the Quicksilver lube. Stir in completely and continue to stir for at least one or two minutes until mix has come back up to temperature.

Add the JPW, repeat. Add the LLA. This will take a lot of stirring and you may need to increase the burner heat. Once mixed in, add a level tablespoon of Ivory soap powder/small shavings (I use a fine grater to get me the powder form). Stir in well.

When you add the 1/4 teaspoon of Permatex, it will make the mixture swirl and separate and look like an old 60's/70's psychodelic light show. Enjoy while you continue to cook and stir. The stuff will not mix 100% in, but does blend in nicely upon cooling.

Add in beeswax two ounces at a time for consistency and thickness.

What you're looking for now is firmness. If you use a heater with your lubesizer or prefer to pan lube, you can add more beeswax for firmness/hardness. If you prefer a bit softer lube that flows well, check firmness by hand and add beeswax as needed.

This formula is working very well so far. Looking forward to seeing what it will do at uber-velocities.

:coffee:

[45nut]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=55945

Please,, please,, discuss on that thread and post actual recipes ONLY here !

[flagman1776]

I always was gonna mix up a batch of "blue lube" for my Lube Master. Magma makes no secret... 50% bees wax / 50% parafin, food coloring of your choice. Cap off a 2" PVC pipe & pour. Freeze lube & push out of PVC.

The funny thing is customers swear the "blue lube is the BEST" but it's only food coloring!

[Nose Dive]

Here's mine..

1 lb beeswax.. clean or yeller either one
1 lb Parafin.... like for canning peaches
1 lb Vasaline or equivalent
2 each Crayola crayons...I like blue or red...any purdy kulor u like
4 or 5 tablespoons of STP Oil Treatment...

Put all except STP in post,,heat her up..(make sure paper is off crayons)..
once melted...dump in STP and mix her up good. pour out,,cool off,,,
Your in business...

can pour out in PVC Pipe to get tubes if you need it...

[tmattox]

Can you substitute toilet bowl wax for beeswax on these homemade lube recipes?

[357maximum]

Can you substitute toilet bowl wax for beeswax on these homemade lube recipes?

NO you cannot substitute it for beeswax. Bowl wax is "slack wax" and industrial term for something that can be anything....normally it amounts to an unclean unwashed version of vaseline. It is a combo of microwax/petrolatum/and parraffin that has not ben distilled yet....but it can also be anything else. Bowl wax can be used to soften a beeswax lube and it is a good "ingredient" to add to beeswax if you do not mind playing with a substance that is not ever exactly the same twice in a row.

[Shooter6br]

For me I go with KISS..........Keep It Simple Stupid.but that 's just me. LLA and JP depending on rifle or pistol.

[Pooch]

1 1/2 lbs. beeswax
1 lb. vaseline
1 1/2 oz. carnuba flakes
1 1/2 oz. ivory soap
2 crayons for color . . . you choose the color

Use a heater in very cold weather. No heat needed in summer. Use for both rifle & pistol.

[dnmccoy]

Are all of these ok to pan lube with?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Are all of these ok to pan lube with?

OK ? yes.
Easy ? probably not.


Disclaimer: I have never been successful at pan lubing, it's a mess a sticky mess. I am pretty sure I was doing it wrong, because so many do this, and do it successfully.

[thehouseproduct]

Here's mine..

1 lb beeswax.. clean or yeller either one
1 lb Parafin.... like for canning peaches
1 lb Vasaline or equivalent
2 each Crayola crayons...I like blue or red...any purdy kulor u like
4 or 5 tablespoons of STP Oil Treatment...

Put all except STP in post,,heat her up..(make sure paper is off crayons)..
once melted...dump in STP and mix her up good. pour out,,cool off,,,
Your in business...

can pour out in PVC Pipe to get tubes if you need it...
I use this without the STP. Both in a Lyman 45 and pan lubing.

[o6Patient]

This recipe makes the most sense to me although I don't see commercial
ones to be a problem to use or buy.

5 to 6,7,8 parts 99% ALCOHOL depending if you are going to roll or spray
1 --------- part PURE LANOLIN OIL (not anhydrous lanolin)

[Greebe]

I did not see this recipe so I am posting it. I have had good luck with this lube in pistols but have only used it in cooler temps so I do not know if it would get too sticky in the hot weather.

Beeswax Moly-Graphite Lube

Equal parts of:

Sta-Lube Extreme Pressure Moly-Graph General Purpose Grease
Pure Beeswax

For a harder lube you can use 40% grease / 60% beeswax which should be fine in very hot temps. Apparently this has been used by some people with good success as well.

At one point when I was living in Nome, AK I couldn't find the Sta-Lube grease and used some other Moly Graphite grease and it worked fine.

Greebe

[Col4570]

Been using this for a while,it keeps the BP crud soft.Goosefat,Beeswax,Olive Oil.Rendered down animal fats are good lubricants and will stand high temperatures.The Goose Fat is sold over here in Jars for roasting Potatoes etc.

[donald duck]

This is not bullet lube, but the case lube I use for re sizing all my cartridge cases. First clean dirty cases in vibrator with mix of walnut and corncob media. Deprime all cases, then lube the inside case mouth with a "q" tip dipped in Shaler Rislone. Shaler Rislone is added to all my oil changes in all vehicles. Catch the left over drips in small prescription bottle and save for lubing cases. Be sure to lube the outside of the case lightly. Have never had a stuck case using this case lube. dd