Savage 99, what to look for?

[three50seven]

Hi all,

The Savage model 99 has always intrigued me, but I don't know all that much about them. I am in a position now where I can afford to buy one (within reason) and I would like to know what I should look for and what to stay away from. Caliber really doesn't matter, although I plan to load for it so availability of components may be an issue.

I will most likely be scoping it, unless I would happen to find one with a tang or receiver sight already in place. I know some models were D&T and others weren't, and many others have been done after they left the factory.

Anything else I need to know before I go on the hunt for one? Indy 1500 is this weekend and I plan on making the trip down to see what I can find.

[gnoahhh]

In a nut shell, the same parameters for buying any used gun apply to the 99. (Finish, bore condition, overall condition, affordable, etc.) Also look for cracks in the wrist, emanating from the tangs- a common failing in these rifles.*

If it was d/t'ed at the factory, the writing on the receiver ring will be off to the left side. If the holes go through the writing it was done aftermarket.

Make sure the rotor spins freely. Don't sweat it if it seems to spin too freely- Spring tension is adjustable.

I would do a Gunbroker search of sold 99's to get a feel for price vs. condition. It can vary a lot.

* tang cracks are easily fixable- epoxy is your friend- and can be good bargaining points when dickering on a price.

[three50seven]

Thank you for the info!

[Ballistics in Scotland]

The OP might mean the complete 99 family, including those with a letter suffix on the model number. I would be inclinled to go for a fairly old one, and most certainly to avoid the late box magazine which replaced the rotary magazines. I believe they all had barrels of good smokeless steel. I would prefer the .250-3000 or .300 Savage chamberings. Not that they are any better than the more modern ones, but they aren't materially worse, and they are Savage's own.

[northmn]

If you are buying a Savage to use then I would get the 300 or 250 as mentioned. 250's in my neck of the woods go for a very high price as compared to the 300. I ahe seen a few collectors around in 303, 22 High power and 30-30. Other than the 30-30 these are best left to collectors as the brass is specialty and bullets hard to come by. The 22 has a 228 diameter. The later Savages using the removable box magazines have some appeal and were made in 284 Winchester (considered gems) 243, 308 and 358 (another gem) However while usable they were the tail end of the production and an attempt to save the rifle. Hardwood stocks and tang safetys. 20 inch barrels.

DEP

[three50seven]

The OP might mean the complete 99 family, including those with a letter suffix on the model number. I would be inclinled to go for a fairly old one, and most certainly to avoid the late box magazine which replaced the rotary magazines. I believe they all had barrels of good smokeless steel. I would prefer the .250-3000 or .300 Savage chamberings. Not that they are any better than the more modern ones, but they aren't materially worse, and they are Savage's own.

Thanks for the info. from what I have read, the older ones are usually the best and definitely stay away from the very last ones. As far as cartridges, I figure .300 savage will probably be easiest to find ammo and components for, as far as the "obsolete" chamberings go. Of course .30-30 or .308 would be easiest.

[DeadWoodDan]

We ( officially by Brothers) have one in .250-3000. Very interesting project; ironically I just finished casting first boolits yesterday to use this summer; NOE 260 89GR FN. This one is an older we inherited for a small price. Found out it is very picky b.c. of barrel twist with jacketed rounds. I have found the factory sights on this rifle to be the best of any I have ever shoot with and love it just for that.

Not sure what your goal is but don't overlook this caliber.

[M-Tecs]

A couple of links to check out on 99's

http://www.savage99.com/index.php

http://www.savageshooters.com/forumdisplay.php?70-Vintage-Centerfire-Rifles

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/forums/40/1/Savage_Collectors

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I have found that the featherweight 99's seem to be more carefully built in the .308 and .243, while not 'old', the .308's are easy to find cartridges and components. The more modern 'top-safety' models can have the triggers tuned to be very crisp and light. The modern varieties are factory drilled and tapped so scope mounting is straight forward. I have both older and recent Savages. I would stay away from the 99E economy models. The internal barre finish seems more rough on three or four in .308 and .300 that I have. The hardwood stock (beech or birch - not walnut) and the 20" standard-weight barrel identify them and I have not gotten much better than 1 3/4 to 2 MOA at 100 yards.. I have a 99C (clip - not rotary magazine in .243 that we shoot a lot. It will shoot MOA or less with 55 grain bullets and is grate fun without recoil. Another modern .243, my wife's antelope rifle also goes less than MOA with 95 gr Partitions and 100 gr Hornady 's. The drilled and tapped 99EG in .300 Savage is probably the most available/least costly of of the older 99's. My 'Ol Ugly' gone silver then camo painted shoots the 311332 (.309) 16g H4198) into 1.25. 150 Hornady's go into MOA, 150 Partitions into 1.5inch groups. I do shoot this rifle a lot, 30 -50 rounds a week. I have had it since 1978. I prefer it over any .270 for Elk or Moose though I usually use a .358. For cast bullet shooting, the .303 Savage is an excellent choice. Rifle in decent shape are available at much lower prices than the .30-30's and Prvi cases are available from Graf's and Powder Valley. I have a featherweight .303 that is very handy, light and pleasant with a Redfield receiver sight. When the light is good it will do under 2 MOA with the RCBS 180 and 18 gr 4198. Rifles in .300 do shoot cast bullets just fine. The short neck is not an issue with most bullets. The 311332 being a fairly heavy long bullet - 190 grains plus. Brass for the .300 is easily made by simply resizing and shortening .308's. I seldom hunt with any rifle but a Savage 99. A .243 or .308 is no different from an accurate Savage 99 than any other rifle. The .300 Savage kills as well as any .270, 7x57, 6,5x55 and most of the other glamour cartridges while the .303 is as good as (better?) than the .30-30. A recoil pad could be in order. A slip-on or worn on the shoulder will help. Few factory 99's have recoil pads. If you pick an older 'ruined' 99 that has been drilled and tapped with a recoil pad, you will be ahead in enjoyabel shooting department. The untouched closet queens are no fun to shoot. My NIB Savage 99 .375 Win keeps screaming SHOOT ME! but it is worth too much to enjoy that weakness. Get something you will enjoy SHOOTING! not a safe queen.

[three50seven]

Thank you for the wealth of information, mostlyleverguns!! Lots of valuable stuff in that post!

[dragon813gt]

Brass rotor w/ counter, jeweled bolt and lever safety typically command more money. These features were available at varying times. I suggest you get "The Ninety-Nine" by Douglas Murphy. It lays everything out and is a wealth of information.

While I don't like the later C models. There is nothing wrong w/ the E models. They don't have a brass rotor, round counter or jeweled bolt. And their stocks are god awful. But they are usually cheap and are perfect for a conversion. NOS stocks can still be found. Kills collector value, Es don't have much at the moment, but you have the exact rifle you want.


My NIB Savage 99 .375 Win keeps screaming SHOOT ME! but it is worth too much to enjoy that weakness. Get something you will enjoy SHOOTING! not a safe queen.

I have a brand new one w/ hang tag still on it. All it does is sit in the safe unfired. I really should sell it as I will never shoot it. No box or manual but it's still worth to much to shoot.

[pertnear]

Also note that the early models were take-down & the barrel could be removed for transport. This was a bad idea apparently & most owners usually got them "pinned", at least my .250 Savage was. I mention it because I think if you found one still in TD condition it would probably be worth more as a collector. An interesting & excellent rifle, but sadly mine was stolen some years back. I've been looking at buying another (in .250 Savage) at the gun shows but price hover around $1,000 for the shooters I've seen.

FWIW

[atr]

I shoot a Model 99C in .308.....its a mid to late 1960's manufacture. I like the removable magazine and the tang safety. The stock has never developed any cracks. It shoots cast well. It feeds smoothly with either RN, FN or spitzer bullets. The blueing has held up very well after so many years. My only negative, and its minor, is that the trigger is not adjustable.

[Lead pot]

I have had three 99's and still have one in the .300 Savage that was build in 1950. My first was a early .22 High power and the second was a .250-3000. They all were fine rifles. Just yesterday I cased up my .300 to take to a gun shop to trade it off on a old 94 Winchester. I was offered a fine price for mine, but at the last moment I changed my mind and packed it back in the case and went home. I just could not part with it. I have had it to long.
The .300 savage is a easy shell to load. Just run a .308 case through a .300 savage die trim it and fire form it and your ready to go. Or Jamison makes brass for it.

[OverMax]

Just so you know. For the time being Savage 1899/99s {other than the 99 clip models} resale at higher price than a Pre 64 94 Winy in similar shape. "Everybody wants one." sets their market price.

[three50seven]

Just so you know. For the time being Savage 1899/99s {other than the 99 clip models} resale at higher price than a Pre 64 94 Winy in similar shape. "Everybody wants one." sets their market price.
I'm afraid you are correct on that, in most cases anyway. Living in a state where the classic deer rifles have never been legal to use is both a blessing and a curse. On one hand, there isn't an over abundance of used leverguns sitting around. But, they also aren't in very high demand....so they tend to be priced below the national average in many cases. Pistol-caliber rifles are what are in demand around here!

[TXGunNut]

Just so you know. For the time being Savage 1899/99s {other than the 99 clip models} resale at higher price than a Pre 64 94 Winy in similar shape. "Everybody wants one." sets their market price.


Not around here. Bought a 95% 1950's vintage 99 in 300 Savage for less money than a beater post-64 94 a little while back. Don't see many on the racks either, I guess folks around here just don't know a good little rifle when they see one.

[dragon813gt]

Just so you know. For the time being Savage 1899/99s {other than the 99 clip models} resale at higher price than a Pre 64 94 Winy in similar shape. "Everybody wants one." sets their market price.

Not here. A beat up 99 can be had for around $400. A 90% one goes for around $600. You have to get into the oddball calibers and take downs to hit the $1k mark. And even then it's the asking price. I've seen the same rifles sitting on tables for years because they are priced to high.

[ascast]

I would not cross the 303 Sav off the list. Ammo is available, though pricy and you have to hunt it up. Bertrum offers brass. And you can make brass from 30-30 Win. They are a standard .308 groove dia. and will handle a broader spectrum of bullets styles and weights than the '94's.
The old ones have all matching serial numbers on all major components. That stuff should all look like it has been together for the last 70 or 100 years, or priced accordingly.
Watch for the .32-40 or .38-55, or maybe a .410. Watch for counterfeits.
enjoy!

[gnoahhh]

No you can't make .303 Savage brass from .30-30's! Way different in head diameter. Buy a supply of new PRVI .303 brass from Graf's or someplace like that, or keep a weather eye out for it on the internet. Good stuff and you won't have to monkey around with improper sized brass. It is true that they have .308 groove diameters (nominally)- cast bullet selection/fit applies just like any other .30 caliber. The very earliest .303 Savage factory ammo appears to have been loaded with .311 bullets to boost pressures/velocity a bit to give it a slight edge over the competitor's .30-30. They stopped that nonsense well over a hundred years ago. Use .30-30 loading data and you're good to go.

As for all early 1899's being takedowns- another falsehood I'm afraid. A lot were, most weren't. Don't be afraid of a takedown not shooting. I focus on TD's in my collecting and find accuracy to be on par with solid frame guns. Two of my TD .22 HiPowers will group jacketed handloads into 1½" @ 100- with aperture rear sights, off the bench. Can't beat that out of 100 year old lever action carbines.

[tubesthatglow]

Pre and post WW 2 Savage 99s reflect the move to scopes. I have a 1940 which possesses a tang site. I love the Savage 300 caliber. Brass can be reformed from 308 or I purchase brass for about fourty cents from Gun broker . The 300 (released 1922) Savage has ballistics very similar to the 308 as it should since the 308 used the 300 Savage to Delos the 308

[TXGunNut]

Pre and post WW 2 Savage 99s reflect the move to scopes. I have a 1940 which possesses a tang site. I love the Savage 300 caliber. Brass can be reformed from 308 or I purchase brass for about fourty cents from Gun broker . The 300 (released 1922) Savage has ballistics very similar to the 308 as it should since the 308 used the 300 Savage to Delos the 308

Good points. I like the peep sight designed for 99's but the models designed for scopes are what I look for. Mine sports an old school (but recent production) Weaver 6X fixed scope.

[Geezer in NH]

Make sure you look at behind the tang on the stock they will crack there. Easy fix but lowers the price considerably IMHO

[three50seven]

Well, I looked at several 99's at the show yesterday and all but one was in the $650-850 range, which I thought was absurd. I looked at one that the seller told me had been in a barn for years...and it looked like it. Heavy pitting all over inside and out. It was marked $325 and he immediately told me he would take $250, without me even asking. Needless to say I walked away empty-handed.

[dragon813gt]

Well, I looked at several 99's at the show yesterday and all but one was in the $650-850 range, which I thought was absurd.

It's not absurd. That's the current price. They aren't being made anymore and most of them have been ridden hard. Beat up ones like you describe have an asking price of $500 around here.

[pietro]

It's not absurd. That's the current price. They aren't being made anymore and most of them have been ridden hard. Beat up ones like you describe have an asking price of $500 around here.



+2 - I sold a pristine Model 99EG in .300 Savage last year, for $850.


.

[three50seven]

Well, maybe they were just higher than I was expecting then. Either way, I will keep my eyes peeled. A deal will come along eventually!