Lyman Mold

[GypsmJim]

I've been using Lee molds for over 40 years. I like the fast warmup and never throw more than a few back in the pot when i get started. Sometimes the first one out is a keeper.

They don't make the mold I want. I had planned on buying a NOE mold based on info on this site, but then found a Lyman at XXX that would be suitable. The issue is I got a gift certificate for XXX for Christmas, and it would more than cover the cost of the mold and handles.

So, I'm torn between getting a free mold, or getting another aluminum one and having a gift certificate with no current need. Just how much heat up time is required with Lymans? Would I be satisfied with it after all these years of Lees?

[Catshooter]

Jim,

I prefer iron moulds for their longevity and heat holding abilities. I used to hate how many boolits I had to throw away with them though.

On this site I learned of the cheap hot plate. Heaven sent. Now, I plug in the pot, and the hot plate with moulds on. By the time the pot is ready, so are the moulds and the Lymans with often give me keepers from the first ones. :)

Welcome to the site.


Cat

[runfiverun]

the steel molds run about 50-f colder than a aluminum mold they also retain heat better so you can slow down your casting pace and turn down the alloy temp in the casting pot.
3-4 pours a minute is plenty to keep them running smoothly.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

All molds need to be heated. The old way way was to just cast in them until they got up to the right temperature. It was a slow tedious process. Now molds are preheated often with the aid of a hot plate. I heat mine directly on the coils of my kitchen stove with a setting of 4 or 5 for 15 -20 minutes and then start casting. Not everyone likes to do it that way, but just being careful and doing it just enough to get things going seems to work for me. Haven't overheated or warped anything. If you go a little too far you will see that your first cast doesn't solidify promptly so you'll know that you overdid it. I work with iron molds, but have used aluminum ones. The Alu molds need a bit more heat as they shed heat faster than the iron ones...so you may have to run a higher temp or cast a bit faster. Modern makers of aluminum molds make excellent products and have established good reputations. With Lyman the quality is ok, but some issues exist over the sizes that emerge. They make their molds to be used with so-called #2 alloy or equivalent that has a blend of antimony and some tin. The basics of this can be seen in the "TerraCorp formula" subscribed to and described in Redding-Saeco literature. Worth looking up and reading on. A lot of people use Lee molds and are satisfied with them. Some not. I have always preferred iron, but that is a personal take. Its something that you have to try in order to gain the personal experience. Good luck with your casting. LLS

[RobS]

If you plan to have a more recent or current Lyman mold and want it to cast at the intended diameter then you'll likely need to cast with Lyman #2 alloy or similar alloy. If you don't use this alloy then the Lyman mold could quite possibly cast undersized .001 to as much as .003.

[gwpercle]

Just so you will know, the Lee 6 cavity mould handles fit Lyman singe and double cavity mould blocks, lots cheaper than Lyman's handles. I've outfitted just about all of my Lyman moulds with their own , attached , sets of Lee handles. I actually like the longer Lee handles better.
Iron moulds are easy to cast with, they hold the heat well. I buy Lee moulds because of the price factor and they can cast good boolits. I'm cheap !
Get the Lyman mould and try it, I'm sure you will like it.
Gary

[GypsmJim]

If you plan to have a more recent or current Lyman mold and want it to cast at the intended diameter then you'll likely need to cast with Lyman #2 alloy or similar alloy. If you don't use this alloy then the Lyman mold could quite possibly cast undersized .001 to as much as .003.

Undersized would not be a good thing since the objective of the new mold is to increase the size.

I used Lyman #2 for my first 20 years, and then switched to 100% wheel weights. What I get in my area are very consistent batch to batch, and the hardness is equivalent to #2. My Lee molds cast the diameter as intended.

What are your thoughts on wheel weights?

[RobS]

I don't think you will end up the diameter you want with straight WW. Maybe if you put 2% tin in with the WW's but even at that it's probably not going to quite get there with a current production mold unless you happen to be lucky. I just won't pay the price for a new Lyman mold when I can go with a custom or semi-custom mold maker and have them cut the mold to my alloy preference.