PDA

View Full Version : What and how to clean Lee molds



Big Dangle
12-29-2015, 05:07 PM
I see tons of pics on here of everyone's great looking molds, mine well are not. So what did y'all clean the Lee molds with? Do you take them apart completely? I do clean mine and they have been working great for a couple years now, its raining so I figured I'd pretty them up. I'm sure the molds are not as fragile as I treat them.

DerekP Houston
12-29-2015, 06:07 PM
I cleaned mine when I got them with hot soapy water and acetone. Haven't had to reclean them yet I put mine back on the hotplate until dry and then lubed them. Toothbrush worked well for the cavities and a regular scotch pad on the outside.

Big Dangle
12-29-2015, 06:49 PM
I used carb cleaner then dish soap and warm water when I got them. I never thought of cleaning them while warm, easier to lube to I'm sure, sweet I'll try it on my day off! Thanks

John Boy
12-29-2015, 07:01 PM
Micro-90 ... http://www.ipcol.com/shopexd.asp?id=15
Click on Request a Sample and identify you are a business
Comes concentrated 2oz to 100ml of water
* Run mold under hot tap water
* Clean 2X - wipe dry with paper towel
Heat on hot plate and Do Not Smoke The Mold
Excellent Cleaner and Excellent Casting Results ... Been using it for a bout 5 years now

JonB_in_Glencoe
12-29-2015, 08:34 PM
I see tons of pics on here of everyone's great looking molds, mine well are not. So what did y'all clean the Lee molds with? Do you take them apart completely? I do clean mine and they have been working great for a couple years now, its raining so I figured I'd pretty them up. I'm sure the molds are not as fragile as I treat them.
I would only clean a mold if I was having problems or if I stored them with a coating of oil to inhibit rust. The patina that builds up from use, usually makes a mold function better.
that's my 2¢
Jon

gwpercle
12-29-2015, 09:01 PM
Acetone and carb cleaner. I never liked using water. After every casting session I clean the sprue plate , top and underside , with 0000 steel wool to remove any and all crud, lead splatter , streaks and anything on the top of the blocks that might get the galling started. Top of block and underside of sprue plate is most important to keep clean.
Then spray the entire mould, cavities, top bottom and sides with Liquid Wrench Dry lube...back in it's box until next time.
Letting a mould get totally grungy is not the best thing to do. Now this is regarding Lee aluminum moulds, steel ones don't seem to need this treatment.
Gary

Big Dangle
12-29-2015, 09:21 PM
Yea I only do the water thing in the beginning, I used the 0000 steel wool before, just figured I'd scrach it up. until now I just use acetone and a nylon AP brush on the cavities. This post helped alot fellas thank you.

MT Gianni
12-29-2015, 09:50 PM
Like all my molds, Lee's get what Felix suggested. I run a #2 yellow pencil over every part which shows me burrs. After leaving the graphite for lube I use the wood of it or another pencil to go over every inch burnishing in the graphite. If they get leaded, it is because I was not paying attention.

gwpercle
12-30-2015, 03:37 PM
Be careful , the aluminum is soft, so a very gentle touch is required when using steel wool and such.

popper
12-30-2015, 06:59 PM
You are supposed to clean mounds?