Preventing Rem Model 51 cracked breechblock?

[JHeath]

This is the aft end of a Model 51 breechblock, .380 circa 1922.

Reportedly these breechblocks sometimes crack, supposedly at this area, below the firing pin channel. Has anybody seen/photographed a cracked one?

You can see a sharp edge at the bottom of the center notch. I am thinking this might be the stress concentration that allows cracks to start, and that a little radiusing and polishing might help prevent a crack from starting.

(I am also ginning up mild handloads.)

Thoughts on reducing that stress riser?

[JHeath]

The problem area might actually be the edge of the radiused cutout for the disconnector. This is the bottom view.

The shiny angled surface is where the speeding slide knocks the breechblock upward to unlock the breech during cycling. So it gets hit hard.

[Mk42gunner]

I wouldn't change anything until I saw at least one, and preferably more, that were cracked.

I think it would be more likely to crack at the 90 degree angle closest to your thumb in the second photo.

Best thing to do might be to buy another breechblock for a spare, if they are available.

Robert

[SOFMatchstaff]

I have been shooting the 380 and the 32 for years, and the only breakage has been the extractor on the 380. They are not the same extractor or block in the two pistols. The 380 being the hardest to get(expensive Too) Of the half dozen that I have, the worst of them is better than any other 380 I have ever had, I just wish the new Rem 51 had lived up to it namesake... OH well..

The loads dont need to be babied, this is a delayed opening action and has handled every thing I have tried in it, the recoil spring is what you should have a spare for, Numrich use to have some.

[JHeath]

Thanks both for your input. I have seen several reports of cracked breech blocks -- a difficult part to source -- which inhibits me from shooting this pistol as much as I'd like.