savage mkii f how to get better groups

[whomeno]

I have a savage mk2 f. not happy with the groups at 50 yards. already did the trigger mod. trigger pull is 2lbs. also tried different ammo.is there a way to bed the factory stock or pillar bed it? i have never did any bedding so a good walk though would be great.
Thanks

[MBTcustom]

If it were mine, I would start by having a different barrel installed. Then I would buy a wood stock from Boyde's. Actually, this one in particular: https://www.boydsgunstocks.com/ProductDetail/434121y1g203_pro-varmint-savage-mkii-bull-barrel-channel-laminate-stock-wblack-textured-paint

After you get the barrel installed so you have some sort of accuracy in the first place, and once you get the wood stock so that the accuracy can be preserved, and bedding is an option (it really is not with a plastic stock), I would bed the rifle with 10-110 bedding compound.
Buy a good quality scope and pay special attention to the quality of the rings.
I think the accuracy of your rifle would be very nice indeed.

[NSB]

goodsteel just gave you the best answer you're going to get. I've bought some Savages over the years that look like the rifling was hand chisled in the barrel (they actually still shot "OK", but not great). The best thing you can do with any rimfire is get a real match barrel (not a fat barrel per se, a match barrel) with a real precision chamber. They aren't that expensive actually and if you're going to keep the gun a long time they're a good investment. There are a lot of places selling .9" barrels suggesting they are a match or target barrel. Some are pretty cheap. They're just fat barrels and may actually shoot worse. Next step, buy a bunch of different standard velocity ammo and try it out and see what shoots best in your gun. Not a bunch of high velocity, try standard velocity. You may find some high velocity that shoots marginely well but it's rarely consistent for lot to lot. Good luck.

[Doc Highwall]

One thing not mentioned is doing a torque test.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/718023/wheeler-engineering-fat-firearm-accurizing-torque-torque-wrench-screwdriver

With a wood stock start at 10 inch lbs, and work in 5 inch lb increments up to a maximum of 40 inch lbs.

Start with a clean barrel and ammo of a known accuracy like CCI Standard Velocity and the barrel conditioned for that ammo. Do the test at a distance of 50 yards, and 100 yards is even better. look for vertical stringing, and make sure the gun is not bouncing off a hard surface.

A torque test is the first thing I do with a 22 after sighting it in.

You will be surprised as to what the torque does for barrel vibrations.

[rfd]

have you full floated the barrel back to the recoil lug?

have you stiffened the fore end and butt stock with rockite?

i've had no need to bed the action itself.

the results after those mods in my new mark2 fv (heavy barrel), along with an apachee trigger kit and were quite noticeable and she's quite a shooter now with just cci sv ammo.

http://i.imgur.com/dfRtuPJ.jpg

[phaessler]

Ammo choice has a lot to do with in my personal experience, particularly weight and rim thickness variations.
Have two MK2's and they both shoot better than I can hold at 50yds.
Pete

[Doc Highwall]

Here is a link to another thread about chronographs, got to page 3 post 45 and click on the picture to enlarge it and you will see a Wheeler Engineering Torque wrench on the bench. I was doing a torque test and chronographing the shots at the same time to make sure if a shot went out of the group that it was not due to a large velocity change.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?288500-Chronograph-Reccomendations/page3

[rfd]

NO question about it - rimfire ammo is critical, and every .22 gun requires testing to see what works best, that's a given. across the board for all my .22rf rifles and pistols, cci sv always works well if not the best, without resorting to the high dollar eley or lapua stuff ... then again, i don't compete in the olympics. diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks.

i was asked by a member about what's the deal with using rockite to both stiffen and add weight to a tupperware stock. rockite is an "anchoring" or "finishing" or "quick set" cement. other brand names work just as well, such as quickrete, sakrete, basalite - got to be lots more, too. rockite costs about $5 for a pound, it's mixed with plain water to form a muddy slurry, is poured into the stock's fore end and butt stock. cures in about 15 minutes, rock hard. it will incredibly stiffen the fore end, and allows for a full floating barrel back to the recoil lug. you can still bed the action, if need be. i've lost count to the number of rifles i've stiffened with rockite - it works so well that i rarely think about swapping a tupperware stock for lam one. ymmv.

the fore end can be poured in just a bit or filled up. there is only a few ounces saved doing in the process and it's always best to fill the fore end to, or just over, the web bracing.

the butt stock offers a wider latitude added weight range, because pvc tubes can be added to take up volume, adding air space. this is the preferred way to rockite a butt stock, because the tube(s) can be filled with lead shot, or lead balls, or lead bullets - or nuts, bolts, rocks, pennies - whatever will add both weight and volume. fill 'til the weight/balance feels right. i use one or two tubes and then fill that tube with lead .45acp bullets (filling with lead will keep the plug ended tubes from floating up during the rockite cure stage) - i like a heavy rifle. some folks fit in as many as four tubes, for more air and lots less weight.

the bottom line is firstly to add much needed stiffness to the nearly flimsy plastic stock, and secondly to add recoil controlling weight (heck, you can put some ml balls in the tube/s to roll and absorb recoil), and thirdly for controlled balance (particularly for offhand shooting).

http://i.imgur.com/Jmiubj8.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/n5S4FmC.jpg

these vids (not me, not mine) will give ya an idea of the basic rockite process. i do it all a bit differently and there is NO need to paint the rockite as no one will see it. when the rockite cures and the rifle is reassembled, i check for barrel float, take off the barrel/action and have at the stock fore end with either a dowel and 3m sticky back gold grit tape stuck to it or that tape on a scope leveling bar. both do the same thing, open the fore stock to float the barrel. don't take much elbow grease to get the job done with 80 grit.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suh0feCDaHA

[rfd]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWjujyMpnOI

[whomeno]

Thanks for all the help.it is now grouping at 1/2 inch at 50 yards. Thanks again

[Kestrel4k]

A bit late to this thread, but I have also been working on my Savage FVSR and have come to the conclusion that the ignition of my particular rifle may not be entirely adequate.

I did a thread on it at RFC, perhaps you might find it of interest:
Savage MkII FVSR - thoughts on going to a heavier striker spring
? (http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=587832)

A few links are suggested in that thread; at this point I am thinking to recontour the firing pin to see if that makes for more consistent ignition. Hope this helps,