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Bazoo
12-23-2015, 12:40 AM
I want to move to Alaska after my mom passes away. Hopefully it will be years from now.

Id like some advice, some inside, some help, from any of the members here that live up there, or have family or friends up there.

My idea for what type of life i'd like up there is, to live simple, in or around a small community. Small being maybe 50-300 people. Id like to buy a piece of land, and build a cabin. Or maybe buy one with a cabin already built. I want to live in a place that doesnt have tourists coming through all the time. Off the beaten path, but not completely isolated.

I am not sure what part of Alaska i want to move to. I am thinking the southern, or southeastern parts. Where the winters are shorter and they have more of a day and night. Although, I am not set on a specific area. Any suggests as to area, or communities to look into? r

I've been doing research on every aspect of moving up there and life up there. I think I would get along pretty good up there. Im pretty handy, i can fix things and make do, and figure out new ways to do things. I am self reliant, but I know when I need help. I like being left alone. I like helping others.

I've been learning things all my life, but have been learning specific things in regards to moving to Alaska. And i've been acquiring things that I know will be useful up there. What are things that I may not have thought of that i'll need to learn or acquire?

I am thinking, i'd like to have some cows up there, Not sure how many, maybe a dozen or 2. And chickens of course. What about pigs, do they fair well up there? Anyone got advice on this?

One thing, is that i'd like to make some friends up there before I go. I guess my idea is, if I could make friends with some folks that would let me stay with them a few weeks to look at land or send gear to them to keep until my arrival. Stuff like that. Anyone want to help me out?

This is pretty big for me, I havent ever done anything like this. So im not really sure how it all goes. But im set on going up there so im going to hash out all the details large and small the best I can.

Any advice, comments, direction, ideas, inspiration is greatly appreciated.

retread
12-23-2015, 01:54 AM
Look for a job with one of the seafood processors up there. Locate your self centrally, like Seward, Kenai. Petersburg etc. You will meet folks from all over the area if you make an effort. A good way to get introduced to the country and some of the people. Companies generally hire out of Seattle and pay your way up and back. Living expense are paid as far as quarters and meals. Work hard and make a good impression and they may leave you an open return ticket that will enable you to "look around the countryside" before returning south. With the money you make you could rent a car and travel to various areas that folks there will talk about. All the info you get from down here will be marginal. Go up and find out for yourself on someone else's ticket. The majority of the jobs are seasonal summer jobs (approximately June through August).

shoot-n-lead
12-23-2015, 04:25 AM
Might be able to hook up with the Brown's.

Plate plinker
12-23-2015, 07:14 AM
Kenai is beautiful I can vouch for that. Will you plan on working? Maybe oil? Or forestry related? parks department?

richhodg66
12-23-2015, 09:59 AM
I lived up there a while, but can't help that much as I lived in Anchorage which is pretty much like any big city as far as I could tell.

There are places you can really get away from it all up there, though. We went down to Whittier once to go boating with some friends. Whittier is interesting in that it is a deep water port which is surrounded by mountains and stays over cast 90% of the time, strategically very important in WWII before aircraft had ways of dealing with that. You can't get to it by car, gotta board a flat car and ride in on a train.

Seemed to be a pretty close knit community in there, maybe a couple of hundred full time residents. There would be a lot off tourists as it's an embarkation/debarkation point for the glacier cruises they do.

10x
12-23-2015, 12:16 PM
Alaska has 2 regions - coastal and inland. The Panhandle is coastal.
Most of the jobs are on the Coast.
Access to some coastal areas and the inland areas is limited unless you have access to an aircraft (or boat on the coast).
Lifestyle, work, and challenges are very different depending on the area you choose.
"living off the land" is extremely challenging, more so for folks who have no experience with the resources available in the space they choose.

Having a reliable and stable income is important.
I lived some 400 miles east of Ketchikan AK for 20 years in a rural remote community. (in Canada) I don't think I could ever cope with those challenges again.


Government also limits how a person can live off the land. Usually there is some one else already living on the "good land" and utilizing the not so good adjacent land.

OldFogey
12-23-2015, 12:46 PM
Look for a job with one of the seafood processors up there. Locate your self centrally, like Seward, Kenai. Petersburg etc. You will meet folks from all over the area if you make an effort. A good way to get introduced to the country and some of the people. Companies generally hire out of Seattle and pay your way up and back. Living expense are paid as far as quarters and meals. Work hard and make a good impression and they may leave you an open return ticket that will enable you to "look around the countryside" before returning south. With the money you make you could rent a car and travel to various areas that folks there will talk about. All the info you get from down here will be marginal. Go up and find out for yourself on someone else's ticket. The majority of the jobs are seasonal summer jobs (approximately June through August).


Good advice. We have friends in the SE, around Petersburg and would like to move there ourselves if not for some medical issues. If you can, you might look into a seasonal job as mentioned above. This would give you an opportunity to "sample" the life there and get acquainted with the area and its people. One thing that sticks out in my mind about Alaskans is that they fully expect you to be self-sufficient. They are willing to help *IF* you aren't a "know-it-all" and work hard.

historicfirearms
12-23-2015, 01:10 PM
I worked a summer in Wrangell. The locals there were for the most part, friendly. There are lots of people in Alaska that I like to call "end of the readers". Missfits, outlaws, and recluses that don't fit in anywhere else tend to wind up there. Most of these people just want to be left alone. Not a negative, mind you, I want to go back to stay too. I would fit right in with the other missfits.

10x
12-23-2015, 01:38 PM
I worked a summer in Wrangell. The locals there were for the most part, friendly. There are lots of people in Alaska that I like to call "end of the readers". Missfits, outlaws, and recluses that don't fit in anywhere else tend to wind up there. Most of these people just want to be left alone. Not a negative, mind you, I want to go back to stay too. I would fit right in with the other missfits.

I lived in a community that was at the end of the road - folks came there when they had no place else to go. The permanent residents welcomed them and helped them. Those who were not so nice either smartened up or moved away - quickly. Few newcomers lasted longer than part of the first winter.
And after a month or so many who had recently arrived could not get out as fast as they wanted to.

snowwolfe
12-23-2015, 07:01 PM
Living off the land is very expensive, both in start up costs or freight costs to get goods and supplies to where you want to live.
In my 35 years of living in Alaska for every 50 people I met who wanted to live off the land maybe 1 followed through and actually did it.
Save as much money as you think you may need and triple it. Make a couple of visits in advance looking for property and to price gear and air charter rates. Make sure some of your visits are during winter.
It can be done and plan properly otherwise you will go belly up in a year or two.

SSGOldfart
12-23-2015, 09:02 PM
Best of luck to you,you have dream so go for it.

starmac
12-23-2015, 09:15 PM
Things you will need in Alaska.
Atv of your choice, needs to be a utility rig, no need for the high horsepower ones.
Of the new ones, the foreman 500 is probably my favorites.
Snow machine, again a utility machine
Boats, notice that is plural.
Ocean boat, 25 foot or bigger, must be eqipped with a shrimp pot puller.
Jet boat, skinny water kind, not the fiberglass hotrods.
Freighter canoe.
That will get you started on boats. Notice I said started.
Airplanes, plural only need if you live off the road system, otherwise you can get by with just a bush plane, no need to have the go to town and haul supplies plane.
Rifles, again plural, as you need one of every caliber.
Shotguns, again plural, from 410 or 20 gauge to a 12 gauge (short one for bear protection) and a 10 gauge for ducks and geese.
Hand cannon, prefferably at least a 500 smith.
With that list you should be able to get started. lol

In all seriousness, if I was in your shoes, I would come up in the early spring in a pickup (4 wheel drive) with some type of camper shell on it, and drive/camp all over at least the mainland for a month or even more, before deciding what you want or where you want it.
I can tell you Kenai, Seward, anywhere on the penninsula, is breath taking beautiful, but fricken over run with tourists. Personally I would never consider it for a place to live, because of it.
Google combat fishing sometime,
Anything you think you will need, or find out you need can be aquired up here, probably cheaper than hauling it up.
If you decide you want to go native and live off the road system, everything changes, and gets super expensive.
I wouldn't dwell on raising cattle or hogs, myself, though there are some that raise both even in the interior.

MaryB
12-23-2015, 11:27 PM
When I was growin gup I had a great aunt with a fly in camp in the Kenai area(40 years ago and I do not remember the exact lake name...) She had a fly in camp and lived out in the bush year round. I spent a couple summers helping her out and it is WORK. 10 hour days and it doesn't matter if the sun set, keep cutting and stacking wood, or working the garden, or hunting(okay that part was fun), or fishing(also fun), or putting up food, smoking meat... I had fun but I also worked hard while I was there. When she passed away the land went back to the state of AK and is now part of the park... all she had was a lease that existed as long as she had family who wanted to live there year round. All of her kids headed for the big city and said no way. I miss her, she was a tough old lady who did not take **** from anyone. I saw her stop a 6'1" drunk at the fly in fishing camp with 1 punch...

Bazoo
12-23-2015, 11:42 PM
I appreciate everyones responses.

I dont live off the land here in ky, and figure i wont be able to live completely off the land in alaska, just more so. I know I have some work to do with learning and acquiring all the skills i'll need.

I am a carpenter. I build furniture for a living here, but have done a few decks and framing some. I figure I might be able to do some carpentry work up there. Either for barter or pay. I do expect that there will be a decent amount of people up there that have carpentry skills, at least rough skills. I am planning on building an alaska mill here, and getting acquainted to its use, and I have a friend that is going to help me, and we're going to build a small cabin on the farm here for practice.

There are 2 ways I expect to get income. The first is from renting out the house/farm once mom passes away. I got a friend here that I trust, that would be willing to watch over it for me. He may want to live there himself, or just watch over it for me.
I also have a business venture. In a nutshell, the company I sell furniture too, the owner wants to retire. Im his only outside supplier and have worked for him for years before the shop burned down. Now im not working for him, but supplying him. He makes some of the stuff at present because im still setting up shop after the fire. We've talked about selling the business to me before. And now it looks like it will happen in a few years or so. So, my plan is to find someone to turn the business over to, and just collect a percentage, kinda like hes going to do to me. Im trusting in the Lord for all of it, including sending the right person.

So, Lord willing, I'll have 2 sources of income. Im figuring on saving enough money before I go that I could buy a small piece of land outright. It may not work out that way I dont know.

starmac
12-23-2015, 11:56 PM
Bazoo, if you have a decent work ethic, you will have no problems working as a carpenter. At least in this part of Alaska.
There are lots of tradesmen, that work the summer months, then coast the winter months, many of these actually live in other states.

I do not mean to put down the idea of working at one of the sea food processors, but there is a reason they do a lot of their hiring in seattle. You come out with good money, but you work bookoo hours for it, the hourly starting pay is, or at least was very low. Most get a yearly raise if they come back, so that after 20 years or so, they are making fair money, but rarely get up to what the tradesmen do.

Bazoo
12-24-2015, 12:54 AM
How much money would It take to get started up there? 10k, 20k? Less, more? Not counting the trip up there.

I am figuring on taking the Alaska marine highway. I wont have a problem taking guns, ammo, and components that way, right? I did some quick research, and it seems i'd have a problem with taking powder, primers, and handguns through canada. Correct?

I will address the type and caliber of guns needed for such an endeavor in a separate thread.

ak_milsurp
12-24-2015, 01:02 AM
Or you could try to find a lob on the North Slope in the oilfields.... Or something in Fairbanks or an outlying community . I live in Chugiak, with is basically a suburb of Anchorage...

paul h
12-24-2015, 01:20 AM
The standard advice I give anyone interested in moving up is to rent for the first two years to find out if the area you are in is one you want to live in year round. It will also give you an opportunity to look at prospective properties to buy year round as many properties have issues with water during breakup, might be in the shade for months at a time during the dead of winter etc.

Not to be a wet blanket, but the states economy is going to be grim the next couple of years. The low oil prices have resulted in significant layoffs in the oil industry last year with more to come next year. The state is also facing a huge budget deficit based on the double whammy of declining oil production and low oil prices. It'll take some time for the affects of those factors to ripple through the state, but it's going to be tight for some time.

As far as where to live, every community has pros and cons. The more remote the location, the higher the cost of getting everything you need, food, fuel, reloading supplies et al. But you need to look at it as what sort of life style you want and to be willing to pay what it costs, and cut out what you really don't need.

Not sure what you mean by how much it will cost to get started up here, if you're talking purchasing land and building a cabin, I'd say $50k is a prudent minimum, the more remote the location the higher the cost primarily due to the cost of getting building materials on sight and the equipment needed to get the materials there. There is much to be said for having road access.

starmac
12-24-2015, 01:31 AM
Paul is dead on about the future Alaska economy.
As far as the cost to get started, some come up on a wing and a prayer with barely eating money and make a good go of it, some come loaded up with money and borrow money to leave, it all depends on how bad you want it.
The good thing about the oil prices, lots of folks will be leaveing the state, and there is a better than good chance that property will be somewhat of a buyers market.
Another thing I'll add to his suggestion of renting for a while, is at times the road to your new property will seem like a highway, and then you may not be able to get there in an argo during the spring and summer. lol

starmac
12-24-2015, 01:44 AM
One more thing, if buying a place to run a dozen head or so of cattle is one of your goals, best bring a couple hundred thousand or more to get started, at least on the mainland. There is ofcoarse an island where they run wild, you can just gather them up.
I will say this, I had wanted to and intended on coming up pretty quick after I got out of high school. The pipeline was finished up about that time and the economy went sour, so I didn't, my biggest regret in life, was not coming back then.

wlc
12-24-2015, 05:04 AM
Paul and starmac have given good advice. I will add to it by saying this. You need to come up for a visit. Twice or three times for two or three weeks. Once in the late summer/early fall and once in the dead of winter. Most everybody loves it up here during early and mid summer, but when the rains start in late summer/early fall or its 20 or 30 below in the winter it can be a challenge. When we first moved up I had a friend that had been up here for nearly 20 years that lives in Delta Junction tell me that Alaska is a good place for men and dogs, women, not so much :) He also told me that AK is a place of no middle ground. You either love it and never want to leave it or you hate it and can't get out fast enough.


Moving up here isn't cheap if you bring more than you can haul in an enclosed trailer either. Better factor that in as well. Land prices aren't cheap and not much of anything else is cheap. Prices are better than they once were, but, depending on where you live now expect the average cost of stuff to be about 20% or so higher than the lower 48 although that is starting to creep down a bit on some stuff as more and more major retailers move in and more and more people move up here. The farther you live from Anchorage the higher the prices tend to get. If you live off the road system stuff goes through the roof due to transport costs.

I have a feeling that unless oil prices go back up significantly that our economy will really start hurting. Our politicians have been on a spending spree for years and need to severely reign in the spending cause oil is the source of the vast majority of our state funds. There will probably be an exodus of folks to go along with it as well. that could be good as far as a buyers market on real estate.

Whatever you do Good luck.

jonp
12-24-2015, 06:54 AM
Any jobs for Truck Drivers up there? I'd love to move north.

starmac
12-24-2015, 02:10 PM
Actually quite a bit of trucking goes on up here. That is what I do.

tygar
12-24-2015, 07:47 PM
Everything the "Alaskans" said is right on (plus the other guys), but I think, unless I missed it, I'm the only one who has raised livestock when I lived up there almost 20 yrs total at different times.

I lived on a farm, small or large, even during my 28 in the military, except when stationed in DC & still had my horse, so I'm a real farm boy.

Forget the pigs! And I was in the pig business down south as well as cattle, sheep & horses. I had a fairly decent barn that was fairly well insulated & even though I know what I'm doing, my pigs didn't grow anywhere near as well as they should & feed amounts were a good double what I used down south & it cost a lot more than in the lower 48.

All animals costs are magnified due to cost of feed. To grain cattle & horses it takes a lot more & figure the animals weight in good hay per month, minimum.

I was good buddies with my hay guy & got a good deal on 1200# m/l round bales & would get truck loads & at a bale a month, per head, it cost! Now I lived in the MatSu so my costs were less than about anywhere else in AK for feed. Don't know what hay cost in FB.

It didn't take more than 2 or 3 yrs to get down to a couple horses & 1 or 2 head of cattle.

Oh, another thing, breaking ice or hauling water, really gets old fast. Even in the barn it sometimes froze up. Winching round bales into the feeder in feet of snow was no picnic either....etc. etc. you didn't get the chicken pen shoveled until break up.

On remote living, I had a friend that owns Willow Creek Lodge & owned a remote lodge on the Talachalitna River. My wife & I even stayed out there as caretakers for part of one winter. It's not to bad when someone else is paying for "everything", but just keeping it running, generator, wood, making sure the docks didn't get broke by the ice & making sure the the cabins were OK, clearing snow etc. Not for the faint of heart.

Now for the good part - it cost a fortune! I know some of the costs to keep that place going. In the summer running up river hauling diesel, gas, food, stuff to repair everything. Each boat trip was ove $100 in gas. In the winter after freeze up, snow machines with sleds or sno cats & in emergencies flying at big bucks.

Before you even think of living off the road system you better spend a number of years making sure you can do it.

Now if you live on the big rivers in the villages there is a barge that comes up once a year & you had better get your order for gas, diesel, food, sno gos etc right or you'll be paying "a lot" for it to be flown up. Friends in Igiugig at the mouth of Lake Iliamna, paid about 7 or 8$ for a gallon of milk in the village store & that was 25yrs ago with everything else correspondently high.

All that said, I loved Alaska! No better place in the world. Wish I could go back but got sick & needed to leave & can't take that cold, long winter, anymore.

Son, just called yesterday from Chena Hot Springs, & it was 20 below...And that ain't nuttin in Fairbanks. It'll go a lot lower.

So, you got a lot to consider.

Good luck.

Bazoo
12-24-2015, 07:58 PM
I'd like to be connected to the road system so that I can get to a major city in order to buy things. I dont mind if im 8 hours from that city. But i'd like the community im associated with not be a major thoroughfare, and I dont want to live in the town, or right on the road.

So, If the cost of cows up there is astronomical? Got any idea how much a cow goes for? Round here you can get a calf for 500 or so, and a bread cow for around 1200.

I am thinking to bring a vehicle, with a trailer.

Course it'll be some years hopefully before mom passes away, and im going to have to save all I can for this venture. It crossed my mind, just selling the farm, which would be about 100k, to have a good start. I like the idea of renting it out though. But I havent made any sure plans about any of it. Im just gathering information about it all , and I appreciate all the info.

Does anyone know if there is any forums that is dedicated to moving up there, or living up there?

paul h
12-24-2015, 09:23 PM
There actually is a forum dedicating to relocating to Alaska

http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/forumdisplay.php/82-Relocating-to-Alaska?

Well worth reading through the old posts as there is a lot of good info there. There is also a forum on the same UBB about cabins that has excellent information there.

One thing I've said many times before and it bears repeating, cheap land is always the most expensive land. The purchase price is but a very small portion of accessing and developing land, and only a small percentage of land is great land. So learn what attributes make for great land in the location you choose, and then have money in hand for the right piece of land when it comes on the market. Good land always sells, anything that has been on the market for some time has issues, and no matter how positive your attitude or how inexpensive the land, the issues will remain and cost you dearly.

If you're looking at roughly 5 years or more out, then I think the economy will be turning around and hopefully a goodly portion of the free loaders will have headed South. I'm not holding my breath as the government seems love giving money to freeloaders.

RetAFSF
12-24-2015, 11:01 PM
First and foremost visit Alaska during the winter Dec Jan months then, the summer June July. In each visit Valdese (if you don't like the weather, just wait 5 minutes), Anchorage, and Fairbanks. If you don't like any of the two seasons do not live there. In the winter in 400 miles , temp can range a 100deg or more. Stationed at Mile 26 (Eielson AFB)temp was -70 deg without wind where Anchorage would be 30 above zero. That's just the beginning.

duckey
12-24-2015, 11:02 PM
Seward is nice, lived there in mid 90's. Been all over SE AK and out to Kodiak. Great place.

MaryB
12-25-2015, 01:19 AM
You do INSANE trucking! :shock: Some of the stories are hair raising!


Actually quite a bit of trucking goes on up here. That is what I do.

MaryB
12-25-2015, 01:23 AM
I always get a chuckle about the TV shows going on and on about the extreme cold in AK... MN isn't much better! We are having a warm winter so far but if the weather pattern shifts nasty is coming! -20 for a week is nothing! One year it didn't get above -10 for 3 weeks...


Everything the "Alaskans" said is right on (plus the other guys), but I think, unless I missed it, I'm the only one who has raised livestock when I lived up there almost 20 yrs total at different times.

I lived on a farm, small or large, even during my 28 in the military, except when stationed in DC & still had my horse, so I'm a real farm boy.

Forget the pigs! And I was in the pig business down south as well as cattle, sheep & horses. I had a fairly decent barn that was fairly well insulated & even though I know what I'm doing, my pigs didn't grow anywhere near as well as they should & feed amounts were a good double what I used down south & it cost a lot more than in the lower 48.

All animals costs are magnified due to cost of feed. To grain cattle & horses it takes a lot more & figure the animals weight in good hay per month, minimum.

I was good buddies with my hay guy & got a good deal on 1200# m/l round bales & would get truck loads & at a bale a month, per head, it cost! Now I lived in the MatSu so my costs were less than about anywhere else in AK for feed. Don't know what hay cost in FB.

It didn't take more than 2 or 3 yrs to get down to a couple horses & 1 or 2 head of cattle.

Oh, another thing, breaking ice or hauling water, really gets old fast. Even in the barn it sometimes froze up. Winching round bales into the feeder in feet of snow was no picnic either....etc. etc. you didn't get the chicken pen shoveled until break up.

On remote living, I had a friend that owns Willow Creek Lodge & owned a remote lodge on the Talachalitna River. My wife & I even stayed out there as caretakers for part of one winter. It's not to bad when someone else is paying for "everything", but just keeping it running, generator, wood, making sure the docks didn't get broke by the ice & making sure the the cabins were OK, clearing snow etc. Not for the faint of heart.

Now for the good part - it cost a fortune! I know some of the costs to keep that place going. In the summer running up river hauling diesel, gas, food, stuff to repair everything. Each boat trip was ove $100 in gas. In the winter after freeze up, snow machines with sleds or sno cats & in emergencies flying at big bucks.

Before you even think of living off the road system you better spend a number of years making sure you can do it.

Now if you live on the big rivers in the villages there is a barge that comes up once a year & you had better get your order for gas, diesel, food, sno gos etc right or you'll be paying "a lot" for it to be flown up. Friends in Igiugig at the mouth of Lake Iliamna, paid about 7 or 8$ for a gallon of milk in the village store & that was 25yrs ago with everything else correspondently high.

All that said, I loved Alaska! No better place in the world. Wish I could go back but got sick & needed to leave & can't take that cold, long winter, anymore.

Son, just called yesterday from Chena Hot Springs, & it was 20 below...And that ain't nuttin in Fairbanks. It'll go a lot lower.

So, you got a lot to consider.

Good luck.

MaryB
12-25-2015, 01:24 AM
Keeping the farm gives you a fall back if the AK weather and DARKNESS gets to you! Sun set here at 4:30 today, it is worse up there!


I'd like to be connected to the road system so that I can get to a major city in order to buy things. I dont mind if im 8 hours from that city. But i'd like the community im associated with not be a major thoroughfare, and I dont want to live in the town, or right on the road.

So, If the cost of cows up there is astronomical? Got any idea how much a cow goes for? Round here you can get a calf for 500 or so, and a bread cow for around 1200.

I am thinking to bring a vehicle, with a trailer.

Course it'll be some years hopefully before mom passes away, and im going to have to save all I can for this venture. It crossed my mind, just selling the farm, which would be about 100k, to have a good start. I like the idea of renting it out though. But I havent made any sure plans about any of it. Im just gathering information about it all , and I appreciate all the info.

Does anyone know if there is any forums that is dedicated to moving up there, or living up there?

Ivantherussian03
12-25-2015, 04:18 AM
I did what your thinking of about 20 years back. I read everything I could about people living in AK. The first is decide the life style u want, which it sounds as if you have. There are two Alaskas in my mind, the Road and the rest. 90 percent of Ak has no road access. I live in a roadless area.

On the Road I suppose u have the coast and Interior. You have to decide between the two, or figure out how you compromise. The Interior can have terrible cold, minus 70's are possible. Anything south of Palmer seems like the Banana Belt after living in the Arctic. You mentioned raising cattle.....so you would need to know where that is possible. I have no idea but I believe there are farms as far north as Fairbanks. A lot research has gone into agriculture in the state specific to the far north.

once you decide on a location and life style, you would decide how to earn money or make a plan to earn money.

once you decide those key things the rest will follow. What machines you will need will become clear. As will everything else.

the things I think are must

22LR
30.06 or similar cartridge
shotgun
good set of tools
4 wheeler
snowgo


Alot of the other things are going to depend on you and your choices.

boats are like tools, they have specific uses. I have 16 ft Lund, with an old 50horse. I traveled over 1000 miles in that boat. They are cheap, light weight, and thus good on gas, plus they are versatile . My buddy has flat bottom fiberglass boat, good for heavy loads in fair conditions, but very dangerous in rough water. You will need a boat probably.

As as for jobs things are not good here. A third of the jobs imho are government jobs, Federal or State, or connected to govt funds: burocratic govt, schools and educational support, Fish and Game. Others have mentioned the State is in crisis financially. Another third of the jobs are resource extraction related I.e. Oil production, Red Dog mine, and others. Oil production has been dropping since 1989, and prices are down the State is feeling real pain. So right off the bat 2/3 of the state economy are contracting the number of jobs. The 1/3 of jobs are connected to tourism and appears to be fine, as L 48 economy seems fine.

Unless you have other plans to earn money. I worked several summers in the canneries. I think it wise to live and work in Ak on someone's else's dime. You can earn money trapping, or making value added goods with the furs, or peddling the tanned fur your self.
This requires a lot of learned skills, so may take time to plan and implement.


An alternative might be living in the Rocky Mountain states. The experiences is nearly the same, it is like Ak but with out the water aspect. The weather is nearly the same, as is the life style.

Living expenses on the Road are similar to the West coast. Once off the Road prices climb dramatically. Gas here was over $8 for 7 years, dropping last fall to 5.50 or so. The local food store prices 4 times Anchorage prices.

I think Alaska teaches people about what is important. Alaska will simplify everything. You will learn new things here. I would find a Honda 400 Fw Foreman made till 1999; it was the last the simple Honda. You might as well buy an older machine and start learning about them., and the same goes for snow goes. I know here in a native village they make fun of people that can't fix their own stuff. I think on the Road people mind their business more. Fixing your own stuff will reduce your needs for cash, plus I think parts are cheaper too. Just remember owning machines increases increases your dependence on the world.......they require cash. They breakdown. At some point you will know your machines very well and repair them before they break down; it might take years.

I just completed a pretty good over haul of my Honda 400fw. Long story short it took 10 months. I took the engine out 2 times, but I learned an awful lot. But boy did I take verbal abuse about it........I can't believe how people treated me about it. Now it is running and silence....no atta boys, no pats on the back, or definitely no good jobs were said to me It goes to show you I am and will always something of an outsider here. But at same time, I know am accepted on some level. Getting back to repair story, I ended up buying another 4 wheeler because I need one. Machines are force multiplier; they make our lives easier and help us do substantial work.

I would watch Life Below Zero episodes or Yukon Men; they are the best of the Alaska shows. You can learn from those programs, but they do gloss over some issues. Do you want to live without electricity? I can't think of his name ...maybe it is Ed and Chandlar. He lives alone with out electricity, or machines..so he requires less cash.







I will post more.....battery is dying.

marvelshooter
12-25-2015, 12:13 PM
The TV show Alaska Railroad has "off gridders" living in the woods a mile or two off the tracks and taking the train to town when it suits them. Is there any truth to this sort of thing? It doesn't sound very off grid when all you have to is take your 4 wheeler or snow machine a mile down a trail and flag down a passing train.

tygar
12-25-2015, 12:53 PM
I always get a chuckle about the TV shows going on and on about the extreme cold in AK... MN isn't much better! We are having a warm winter so far but if the weather pattern shifts nasty is coming! -20 for a week is nothing! One year it didn't get above -10 for 3 weeks...

Ya but in Alaska it's a lottt longer & up north in AK, MN can't compare. Son has a couple homes in Bimidgi(sp?) & spends a lot of time there & he says it can't compare. He lives in AK.

That said, plenty of places are as cold as lots of places in AK. e.g. WA is very similar to SE, MT, ND, MN etc are similar to Anchorage etc. but get out in Bethel or Ft Yukon in the winter with the wind blowing the snow sideways for months on end & see if you can find a comparable.

As for the people hoping on the RR, you need to experience bush living & you will vastly appreciate the ability to do that.

I know of people that actually have explored interior AK by just jumping on & off the train.

Until YOU actually experience it, you can't comprehend what AK bush life is like.

snowwolfe
12-25-2015, 02:32 PM
Test yourself. Find a spot on your farm that is private and build a cabin without or limited power tools and live without running water or electricity for a year. And don't cheat :)

Ivantherussian03
12-25-2015, 03:03 PM
life in "Bush" Alaska is going to Mars and living with the Martians is what I say to people. When I say Bush Ak , I am talking about off the Road and among Alaska Natives.

I got got the impression he wants or needs to be on the Road. He will need to be on road to raise cows.

Thetv shows gloss over some issues. The weather here can and will kill you, as will the river, and geography. Weather decides a lot of things
here for you. L 48 people rarely let the weather interfere with their plans. Winter is still long. The daylight is short in winter.

a lot of dreamers come north ....hoping to find themselves. I know of one person actually ate by wolves. Then that Into the Wild book. Testing your self sounds wise. A lot people just disappear.

Most people leave the Bush because of difficulties. I have been here twenty years, seen a lot of folks come and go. I don't know anyone like me in that regard .

Bazoo
12-25-2015, 08:45 PM
I appreciate all the responses. I do watch all the shows on tv about the folks that live in alaska, Yukon men, and life below zero do seem the most realistic to me. I realize that a lot of the stuff is cut out and edited for tv.

I'd like to be able to get to town to buy things such as powder, primers, nails. But id be cool with having to take a boat up the river, or across the bay to a town. Id rather live off the road. But i dont want to live so far from town that I cant get supplies other than from the air. Also, the wife would like to be able to call her folks occasionally.

As far as living, i would prefer living without electricity. I do a lot of things the "hard" way, even with electricity. I prefer living simple. A simple life makes the heart glad. A generator to run a drill and grinder when needed would be enough. I may end up not needing it at all.

I definitely dont want to have a "job" up there. I dont want to move to alaska for the scenery, although that is a perk. I want a lifestyle change. I am transitioning from one life style to the other, living more simple all the time, here. Figuring out ways to do more with less all the time. I dont have a lot of desire for material things. Having lost all my possessions in a house fire in May really helped change the direction of my life, and gave me a new perspective of what I want out of life. It also helped reinforce the concept I already had of living simple. Everyone around here is all about money. Folks judge a person on how many hours they spent in a job. And unless you're miserable from your job, then you're not working enough. I like my "job" of making furniture. I dont make as much money as some, but I am happy. Im told im lazy because I choose not to make money with all my time. I am not lazy though. I see value in things though other than making money.

If it works out like I hope, i'll have some income coming in from my business venture. But i'll have the farm to rent out and will have income from that. I hope to live in a manner that I dont need a lot of monthly money also. Im planning to save enough money to buy a piece of land, and get set up with all the tools needed.

I want cows, but not as a source of income. I may not be able to, or want to have cows when the time comes.

I figure that I can build my own cabin and most of everything I need with my saw and an alaska mill. Then i'll be able to offer any locals boards and carpentry services. I know how to do carpentry with hand tools.

Fixing stuff myself is not a problem. I do that pretty much all myself now. Its my lifes goal to learn how to fix and repair any and all things. I am not your normal throw away and buy new type of person.

Bazoo
12-25-2015, 08:54 PM
Test yourself. Find a spot on your farm that is private and build a cabin without or limited power tools and live without running water or electricity for a year. And don't cheat :) Im planning to do something very similar. I've lived a week without electricity, which isnt much but it gave me a good taste of it and I liked it a lot.

bearcove
12-25-2015, 11:06 PM
As a carpenter you will be fine. Live small to start. I went up with about $3000 an old pickup some tools camping gear and guns. Got there mid Sept. Camped for about 2 weeks and it started to snow. Got a 1 BR apt. Loved it! Always found plenty of work. If your not picky you can work everyday. Unless things have changed a LOT. Never regretted anything about Alaska except leaving. Trying to get back but that is going slow...

Met a guy in Florida, he said all he wanted was to go to Alaska. I had Ak tags on the truck, "How do I do it?" he asks. I pointed North and said "Head that way".

Its that simple.

MaryB
12-26-2015, 12:05 AM
-41 is -41 no matter where you are! and that is common in Northern MN. Down where I am in the balmy end of the state -31 is the record low while up there it is -61. MN gets COLD. -20 is prett cmmon even in the southern end of the state along with gale force winds dropping the windchill to -100!


Ya but in Alaska it's a lottt longer & up north in AK, MN can't compare. Son has a couple homes in Bimidgi(sp?) & spends a lot of time there & he says it can't compare. He lives in AK.

That said, plenty of places are as cold as lots of places in AK. e.g. WA is very similar to SE, MT, ND, MN etc are similar to Anchorage etc. but get out in Bethel or Ft Yukon in the winter with the wind blowing the snow sideways for months on end & see if you can find a comparable.

As for the people hoping on the RR, you need to experience bush living & you will vastly appreciate the ability to do that.

I know of people that actually have explored interior AK by just jumping on & off the train.

Until YOU actually experience it, you can't comprehend what AK bush life is like.

10x
12-26-2015, 10:32 AM
Test yourself. Find a spot on your farm that is private and build a cabin without or limited power tools and live without running water or electricity for a year. And don't cheat :)


life in "Bush" Alaska is going to Mars and living with the Martians is what I say to people. When I say Bush Ak , I am talking about off the Road and among Alaska Natives.

I got got the impression he wants or needs to be on the Road. He will need to be on road to raise cows.

Thetv shows gloss over some issues. The weather here can and will kill you, as will the river, and geography. Weather decides a lot of things
here for you. L 48 people rarely let the weather interfere with their plans. Winter is still long. The daylight is short in winter.

a lot of dreamers come north ....hoping to find themselves. I know of one person actually ate by wolves. Then that Into the Wild book. Testing your self sounds wise. A lot people just disappear.

Most people leave the Bush because of difficulties. I have been here twenty years, seen a lot of folks come and go. I don't know anyone like me in that regard .

Understatement - There is no romance in moving to the bush and existing. It is a lot of hard work, and if you make a mistake you suffer - or it could be fatal.
If you don't do enough hard work in your preparation for winter, or lean times, you suffer , or you die.
Cold is not something that you can survive - at -40C when you are lighting a fire and have to take a glove off, you have under a minute before your fingers become useless.
If you don't get the fire lit in the first 30 seconds the chance of lighting a fire reduces quickly with time.
When you do start to light a fire when it is that cold you have to make sure everything is right - you have good tinder, good fuel, and a reliable source of ingnition and enough fuel to keep it going.

A butane lighter does not cut it - butane will not gas off at -30C.
Soak your hands in water with ice cubes in in it for 5 minutes, then dry them off, and while your hands are still cold - try to light a fire. -30F is far worse than that.
I have taught fire making in winter survival school - fire making is crucial to survival in the cold. There is no safety net. When you are cold and need a fire and you don't get the fire going first time and you will not be able to make a fire in a few minutes or ever.
There are times when you are on your own at -30F or colder and you make a simple mistake or can not perform a simple task because you are cold - you die.

The next global warming conference should be held in Yellowknife, North west Territories, - out side, in January or February.

waksupi
12-26-2015, 10:57 AM
I find that living out in the sticks, you spend half of the year getting ready for winter, and the other half getting ready for summer. Both have different requirements.

paul h
12-26-2015, 01:58 PM
You can have a plenty remote experience being on the road, so don't be so quick to dismiss the road system. Again its hard to put into words how remote, remote Alaska is, or how expensive. Also hard to communicate are the difficulties of living so remote, especially the social aspects when it involves a small community that might never accept you, or if it does, it takes years and then maybe only tacitly. There are massive social problems in many remote Alaska locations, alcoholism, drug abuse, sexual abuse etc. A very real ugly reality. So pick your location carefully and realize you'll be dealing with people whether in Anchorage or Aniak, so think hard about the quality of people in the location, not the quantity.

I've learned a few things in the nearly 20 years I've been up here, some about Alaska, some about myself. Whatever problems you think you'll be leaving behind in the lower 48 will follow you up here. You have to figure out how to deal with those issues yourself. Alaska may make it easier to deal with those issues, or it may make it harder, but those issues don't magically disappear by heading North.

You say you seek a simple life, but what you will find is you are seeking a very hard life and it will be much harder in Alaska. You'll have to work much harder to get by and survive due to the added expenses and difficulties so your goal should be to figure out how to make as much money as possible to live in Alaska. With whether windows and seasons you'll have some jobs that will require you to drop everything to get them done in a very short time window and that very well might encroach in your fishing, hunting or making $. Not a slam on you but I know many people who have come up planning to live the simple life and that somehow that turns into living off of food stamps and government assistance. If you don't have a realistic plan on how to pay to live in Alaska, you'll either end up heading back South or joining the hoards of wellfare sourdoughs. Most people living in remote Alaska fall into three categories, they have taken a vow of poverty willingly or not, they are independently wealthy (could be pulling a pension from military service, native corporation dividends etc) or they have a remote high paying job.

The skills of a carpenter are very beneficial to have, but if you live in a small community where most people have those same skills and are also tight for $, you're likely not going to have much of a chance to make money with those skills. Where a carpenter can make money is in a larger community where there are people that have money but not time to fix or modify their home and need to hire a carpenter.

Again nothing wrong with seeking the Alaska lifestyle, whatever that means to you, but realize you'll probably have to work 50% harder to make that happen as you should think of it as a quality lifestyle, not so much a simple one. And if you're coming up with your wife, add an annual mid winter trip to Hawaii to your budget as it really is a mental health requirement for most women, not an extravagance. Most wife's say they'll be heading back South after one or two winters, with or without their man. Another Alaska reality that I've seen repeated over and over again. It's not the cold, it's the darkness and length of winter and again it's very real.

waksupi
12-26-2015, 02:36 PM
Kind of like being self employed. No one wants to work more than 8 hours a day for another man, but when you self employ, 16-18 hour days are common. That is what you will be going in to.

GOPHER SLAYER
12-26-2015, 03:02 PM
Having read all of the above posts I have only one question, why?

Bazoo
12-26-2015, 09:20 PM
Kind of like being self employed. No one wants to work more than 8 hours a day for another man, but when you self employ, 16-18 hour days are common. That is what you will be going in to. This I fully understand.

Bazoo
12-26-2015, 09:43 PM
Having read all of the above posts I have only one question, why?

Why do I want to go to alaska? That is a hard question to answer. Im not really sure how to express why. Its a combination of various things.

I want to see a true wilderness. I want to be able to see a land that isnt blanketed by electric poles and fences.

People cut down a tree because it doesnt fit their landscaping scheme in their yards, they run over box turtles in the road like they would beer cans. I stop and move the turtles. I leave the trees unless im going to use them for something or have a reason to remove them. I expect that the people in bush alaska have a different mindset about these things. At least more of them. No one here respects the land.

Folks here are all about money. Not money to buy things they need, but money to buy things they dont need. People dont know the reason they work. They dont work to survive. Their mindset doesnt allow them to have any food stored, or any fuel. They go to walmart if they need stuff on a whim. They waste what they have, and work more to get enough to live on. They waste food a lot. What they waste, it doesnt get fed to the animals either. That gets all over me. I think these will be significant differences. Im sure not everyone is like this here ,but a whole lot of the folks are.

I suppose another reason is self satisfaction. I'd rather work for my own benefit, than for someone elses benefit.

There isnt anywhere you can go in ky and live a simple life. Each county is different, but in my county, they force you to pay for garbage pickup, regardless of how much garbage you have, or if you have another way to get rid of your garbage. If you refuse to pay, they put a lien against your property. You cannot build a shed, or a deck without permission. You cant get permission to have an outhouse. There is quite a bit more government regulation. Im sure there is some in ak, but from the little research i've done, its a lot less that what im used to.

Thats about how i'd sum up why i want to move to alaska. Simple, hard, freedom.

MaryB
12-26-2015, 11:07 PM
Parts of Northern MN are still wild and not quite as severe as AK...

maxreloader
12-26-2015, 11:38 PM
Mother nature teaches great lessons to those that listen... the others are not so fortunate. In the northeast I have gone 35 miles offshore (NE corner of Jeffrey's ledge) in a 19' seacraft to go haddock fishing many a time... its never the same route back in and sure as hell isnt guaranteed. I guess my moral of the story here is that nature is relentless and humans are subjected to this. For the most part anyways. Look into what you are biting off before you even attempt to chew. A miscalculation can equal a shorter lifespan, literally.

waksupi
12-27-2015, 12:33 AM
Why do I want to go to alaska? That is a hard question to answer. Im not really sure how to express why. Its a combination of various things.

I want to see a true wilderness. I want to be able to see a land that isnt blanketed by electric poles and fences.

People cut down a tree because it doesnt fit their landscaping scheme in their yards, they run over box turtles in the road like they would beer cans. I stop and move the turtles. I leave the trees unless im going to use them for something or have a reason to remove them. I expect that the people in bush alaska have a different mindset about these things. At least more of them. No one here respects the land.

Folks here are all about money. Not money to buy things they need, but money to buy things they dont need. People dont know the reason they work. They dont work to survive. Their mindset doesnt allow them to have any food stored, or any fuel. They go to walmart if they need stuff on a whim. They waste what they have, and work more to get enough to live on. They waste food a lot. What they waste, it doesnt get fed to the animals either. That gets all over me. I think these will be significant differences. Im sure not everyone is like this here ,but a whole lot of the folks are.

I suppose another reason is self satisfaction. I'd rather work for my own benefit, than for someone elses benefit.

There isnt anywhere you can go in ky and live a simple life. Each county is different, but in my county, they force you to pay for garbage pickup, regardless of how much garbage you have, or if you have another way to get rid of your garbage. If you refuse to pay, they put a lien against your property. You cannot build a shed, or a deck without permission. You cant get permission to have an outhouse. There is quite a bit more government regulation. Im sure there is some in ak, but from the little research i've done, its a lot less that what im used to.

Thats about how i'd sum up why i want to move to alaska. Simple, hard, freedom.


Heck, if that's what you want, go up into the Yaak River country, north of Troy, Montana. Lots of people living the lifestyle. Cheaper living than Alaska, better weather for the most part. Some darn nice people, too.

Bazoo
12-27-2015, 12:40 AM
Im set on alaska.

maxreloader
12-27-2015, 01:30 AM
If you are set... you are set. good luck!

shunka
12-27-2015, 04:43 AM
Im set on alaska.

just fyi - prices in Alaska will shock the hell out of you:

from https://www.flickr.com/photos/senatorlisamurkowski/sets/72157630782007502/
and
http://www.onehundreddollarsamonth.com/how-much-do-groceries-cost-in-craig-alaska/

"Inland Grocery Prices"

auquafina water $3.79 PER BOTTLE $90.96 per case
jug of Tide Laundry Detergent $32.19
10 oz bag of Ruffles chips $8.99
5# bag of flour $20.49
Toilet Paper $1.25 PER ROLL
3 pound Folgers Coffee $24.79

2% Milk $9 a gal.

-------
lumber isn't too bad since it is local, but these are Anchorage prices and then you have to pay to have it hauled to "your land"

2x4 x8' $3.20
2x12x24' $56.78

4x8x 3/4 plywood 3/4" CDX $33.45

but insulation is shipped in - this is more than twice what we pay:
BLUE FOAM BOARD 2" THICK $47.04
R 10.0 4' x 8'

and this is more than 4 times what we pay:
R 13 KRAFT 12 BATTS / BAG $63.55
3 1/2"x15"x94" 107.7 sq ft / BAG

I know you "plan" on cutting your own lumber. But lumber needs to dry and your gonna need
a whole lot "right now". And you can't make your own insulation, concrete or block & brick.
Once you get up there you going to see a whole lot of "half finished houses" and even more that "aren't insulated enough"
because folks run out of time, money, or both.

Rent can steep too. $700 a month gets you a 384 sq ft "frame shack" and you pay all utilities.

Finally, Alaska is very hard on wives and kids who move in from the lower 48.
Best to think of more than just yourself.

You have received a LOT of incredibly good advice from those that have been there and done it .
They spent quite a bit of their time to try to educate you on this matter
Don't squander that gift.

shunka

"Well, you do what you think best, Ned" Rooster Cogburn

.429&H110
12-27-2015, 04:29 PM
Greetings from North Pole, where Santa really does live at the Santa Claus House.
i looked up Kentucky, found it's 380 miles long, 100 people per square mile.
From here to anchorage is 350 miles, AK has little over 1 people per square mile.
350 miles to toys-r-us or an Olive Garden. We do have a Walmart in Fairbanks.
Right now is -18F, nice out, snow machines buzzing out back
an outdoor freezer will warm up to 40F heated by the fan motors,
and the refrigerant will sit in the condenser with no pressure to start the LP switch.
No problem really, just leave the door open, heat the condenser, add gas.

Google AlpineCreekLodge.com , my favorite place in the world.

Bazoo
12-27-2015, 08:55 PM
I recognize the value of the input i've received, and i appreciate all the effort everyone has given me. I am taking it all into consideration.

I have reconsidered numerous times moving to alaska, or moving to other places. I keep coming back to alaska.

Those prices are pretty high. A lot higher than here. I did some research on the prices in anchorage, and those are higher but not near as bad as the above links. That is assuming the research I did on the prices are correct for anchorage. I'd like to be able to get to a larger town or to a city to be able to avoid such high prices on things that i cannot do without or make myself.

Can someone give me some idea of the prices in anchorage? What about other cities or larger towns?

starmac
12-27-2015, 10:40 PM
You need to come on up and visit. You can easily live remote, and off grid and still be within 20 minutes of lowes, wallmart and anything else you may want. Milk here is generally cheaper than most places in the lower 48. As far as prices go we do pay an Alaska premium for some goods, others are very comparable to many places down south.
As far as WHY, it is the best living in the United States period. I would say world, but I haven't been all over the world.
If it is your dream, don't let anyone talk you out of it, the weather can (and will) kill you if you are a dummy, or screw up, that is up to you.
Hunting and fishing is expensive, but the main expense is traveling to do it on a time schedule, like anyone that has a regular job has to do.
From here if you want to dipnet salmon, you will have to drive 350 miles, but in a long day you will also have your years supply laid in.
To moose hunt, if you do not have time constraints, and are not head hunting, there is no reason to travel over a few miles.
Beef and pork can be bought, much cheaper than raising it.
I'm not saying it would be easy, but I know for a fact in this area, a guy can live pretty good off grid, fairly cheap, and still be less than an hour from anything you could ask for.
Come on up and rent a dry cabin for a while, cost you around 500 a month, more if you want, but you will have an idea.
One can live in town in Fairbanks, and it would seem like rural country living in many places, even though it is the second largest city in Alaska.

Bazoo
12-27-2015, 11:23 PM
You need to come on up and visit. You can easily live remote, and off grid and still be within 20 minutes of lowes, wallmart and anything else you may want. Milk here is generally cheaper than most places in the lower 48. As far as prices go we do pay an Alaska premium for some goods, others are very comparable to many places down south.
As far as WHY, it is the best living in the United States period. I would say world, but I haven't been all over the world.
If it is your dream, don't let anyone talk you out of it, the weather can (and will) kill you if you are a dummy, or screw up, that is up to you.
Hunting and fishing is expensive, but the main expense is traveling to do it on a time schedule, like anyone that has a regular job has to do.
From here if you want to dipnet salmon, you will have to drive 350 miles, but in a long day you will also have your years supply laid in.
To moose hunt, if you do not have time constraints, and are not head hunting, there is no reason to travel over a few miles.
Beef and pork can be bought, much cheaper than raising it.
I'm not saying it would be easy, but I know for a fact in this area, a guy can live pretty good off grid, fairly cheap, and still be less than an hour from anything you could ask for.
Come on up and rent a dry cabin for a while, cost you around 500 a month, more if you want, but you will have an idea.
One can live in town in Fairbanks, and it would seem like rural country living in many places, even though it is the second largest city in Alaska.

Thanks for the encouragement. What you describe is pretty close to what I envision. Do you have any idea how a person goes about finding a cabin to rent?

starmac
12-28-2015, 12:39 AM
Craigs list, there are dry cabins all over the place around here.
Or if you ever get up this way, give me a shout.

Bazoo
12-28-2015, 01:12 AM
Craigs list, there are dry cabins all over the place around here.
Or if you ever get up this way, give me a shout.
If I ever make it that far north i'll let you know. Course it'll be a while before I even make a trip up.

RugerFan
12-28-2015, 01:58 AM
These web sites will be helpful

http://alaskaslist.com

http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/

Plenty of people live off the grid. Come up in late May and get settled in before winter. You'll be fine.

snowwolfe
12-28-2015, 02:23 PM
I moved out of Anchorage 2.5 years ago so I can give you so fairly good price comparisons since we lived in Colorado for 2 years (and absolutely hated it) and now Tennessee.
The cost of living in Anchorage is roughly 25-35% higher than Tenn and Colorado after factoring in everything with the exception being housing, which is about 50 % higher.
Our house lot just outside Anchorage was 12,000 sq feet and was appraised at $80,000.

wlc
12-28-2015, 05:13 PM
Not trying to discourage you at all, but I will reiterate the suggestion of coming up to "scope" things out before diving in head first.

Bazoo
12-28-2015, 11:49 PM
Not trying to discourage you at all, but I will reiterate the suggestion of coming up to "scope" things out before diving in head first.
I see the value in this, and i do appreciate yours as well as everyone elses suggestion.

Bazoo
12-28-2015, 11:51 PM
These web sites will be helpful

http://alaskaslist.com

http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/

Plenty of people live off the grid. Come up in late May and get settled in before winter. You'll be fine.


Thank you much for that. Those sites will really help me. Thanks for the words of encouragement also.

Bazoo
12-28-2015, 11:55 PM
Those of yall that live in AK, do any of yall live off the grid? And if so, how do you have internet access?

What about mail delivery? Can folks that live in the bush get mail?

wlc
12-29-2015, 12:18 AM
Those of yall that live in AK, do any of yall live off the grid? And if so, how do you have internet access?

What about mail delivery? Can folks that live in the bush get mail?

I don't. Can't speak for any of the others on here. We live on the road and on the grid. I do have a friend that lives on the road, but off grid. He runs a small Honda generator for the little electric he needs and also charges up a small battery bank when he runs the generator. He has a well, but draws water the old fashioned way with a well bucket made for 6" drilled wells. His internet is via satellite.

Yes, even bush communities get mail delivery.

Have you researched a location you would like to be in? Alaska is a HUGE place with a varied climate etc depending on where you are. Starmac lives in an icebox in the winter and a low temp oven in the summer. I live in a banana belt.

Bazoo
12-29-2015, 12:26 AM
I have researched some about the location, but im not sure where I'd like to be. I think i'd like to be in the interior, definitely not near the arctic circle.

starmac
12-29-2015, 12:33 AM
Ha, Tshirt weather today. lol Of coarse you guys probably had the air conditioner on today. lol

Lonegun1894
12-29-2015, 02:11 AM
Lots of interesting info so far and makes for excellent reading. Thanks for the education everyone. Always good to know about places other than what I grew up with.

paul h
12-29-2015, 03:06 AM
You can pretty much figure if the village has an airstrip, you can get mail. GCI is working on a project to bring internet to most of the state, but it's not done yet so some areas just have satellite, others radio based and some fiber optic. As with all things, with time and money they are possible.

Again do your research. I think you have a romanticized notion of the people the live in bush communities. There are some wonderful people out there, but also some despicable people. Just because someone lives in bush Alaska doesn't mean they have a greater respect for natural resources or other people. Some of those people are very wasteful of the resources and turn their properties into trash heaps. Thats the sad reality and why you really need to visit any prospective community with eyes wide open as to the opportunities, the challenges and the problems.

If I were to pull the plug and go for a more basic lifestyle I'd head to South East. The only protein you can count on for year round subsistence is fish, and SE is a much better local for year round fish, not to mention blacktail deer, black bear, and some limited options for moose and mountain goats.

waksupi
12-29-2015, 11:23 AM
Try this for just about any question you have on living in any state.

http://www.city-data.com/forum/alaska/

starmac
12-29-2015, 11:26 AM
We have a member that went to the south east to do something like what you are describing. Not to live off the land, but to live a fairly simple life in an off grid cabin. His place is on the road system, BUT not hooked to the mainland. His main goal was to set his son up with a small crab boat to make a living, he, himself was a fishing guide and did some other work too.
It can be a great life or terrible existance, we haven't heard fron him now in well over a year, maybe 2, so not sure how it turned out.

snowwolfe
12-29-2015, 11:39 AM
Pick your location carefully. When we lived in Alaska we ran our river boats all over the Yukon, up the koyukuk, and into and beyond the Huslia rivers during moose hunting. We traveled 600 miles one way after launching the boat.
Native alaskan's along the river systems as a general rule do not much care for "white people".
The west portion of the Yukon and the rivers running into and out of it are poised to become very crowded and hunted out due to the road being built to Tanana.
You could live for years close to a village and still be referred to as the new guy.

starmac
12-29-2015, 09:41 PM
Where does that new tanana road connect to the road system, seems like it isn't going to.

MaryB
12-29-2015, 11:35 PM
I don't know if i could handle the rain in the SE... I like sunshine...

starmac
12-30-2015, 12:45 AM
Rain do make a difference. My son is an underwater welder, so took a job in Seward when he moved to Alaska, he loves working under water, but couldn't handle the rain there, go figure. lol

MaryB
12-30-2015, 03:04 AM
MN winter is bad enough, slightly less than 8 hours a day sun at solstice...

paul h
12-31-2015, 02:28 AM
While we're down to 5 hours of daylight at the solstice, I was very happy to find the lot we built are house on due to the great Southern exposure, and views to the West

http://forums.accuratereloading.com/evefiles/photo_albums/3/4/4/344100033/6361088802_2D630F8E29207B3461945E8C3F21D687.jpg

What may seem like scenery has a huge impact on your mental health and sense of well being.

Bazoo
12-31-2015, 09:56 PM
What may seem like scenery has a huge impact on your mental health and sense of well being.

I agree Sir.

starmac
12-31-2015, 10:31 PM
Scenery has different meanings to different folks too though.
For years I lived in Eastern New Mexico, in a place as far as I was concerned had exactly NO scenery. You could literally see for miles, unless a fence post happened to block your view, but lots of folks from back east, literally thought it was beautiful.

10x
01-01-2016, 12:29 AM
Scenery has different meanings to different folks too though.
For years I lived in Eastern New Mexico, in a place as far as I was concerned had exactly NO scenery. You could literally see for miles, unless a fence post happened to block your view, but lots of folks from back east, literally thought it was beautiful.

indeed, sometimes the lake, trees, and mountains block the scenery....

bearcove
01-01-2016, 03:27 PM
WHY?
From my house I could ride a snow machine a 1000 miles and not see a single fence.

Bazoo
01-01-2016, 08:42 PM
I like the idea of little to no fences.

tygar
01-01-2016, 09:17 PM
WHY?
From my house I could ride a snow machine a 1000 miles and not see a single fence.

Me 2 (although I had fences for the animals) but it's amazing how after a few years all that open space gets taken up by people building their "Alaska dream homes" & plugging up your sno go/4 wheeler trails with their stuff!

starmac
01-01-2016, 09:44 PM
Tygar, you must be talking about a fairly populated area, you can go till a sled of gas cans run out here without finding anyone plugging the trail. Then again you can ride around town where everyone lives, but even just a few miles )as in 5 or 10) even where houses are abundant, you can hit trails that are unrestricted for longer than one would ever want to ride.

tygar
01-01-2016, 10:02 PM
I know I lived in Matsu/Wasilla for 20 yrs. Things change. The OP is talking about road system by towns. The difference in Matsu from the Knik to Talkeetna in 20 yrs is unbelievable.

Past Talkeetna is still open.

When I moved there I could go out my property all the way to the Inlet then east as far as I wanted Tok or farther, west as far as you could go till you hit water.

bearcove
01-01-2016, 10:23 PM
Yeah I hear knik road has traffic jams now. I lived out there 15 yrs ago. I would stay away from the matsu valley and the Kenai peninsula, NOT the remote experience you are looking for.

Bazoo
01-01-2016, 11:12 PM
I appreciate and enjoy reading all the suggestions and stories. I definitely would like suggestions as to area or towns. I think i'd like to be close enough to drive to anchorage, no more than 8 hours.

bearcove
01-02-2016, 12:02 AM
Like tygar said north of talkeetna

wlc
01-02-2016, 03:10 AM
While we're down to 5 hours of daylight at the solstice, I was very happy to find the lot we built are house on due to the great Southern exposure, and views to the West

http://forums.accuratereloading.com/evefiles/photo_albums/3/4/4/344100033/6361088802_2D630F8E29207B3461945E8C3F21D687.jpg

What may seem like scenery has a huge impact on your mental health and sense of well being.

Beautiful view!!!

TXGunNut
01-02-2016, 01:35 PM
This thread is making me feel pretty good about Texas. If you want scenery and solitude, we have lots of it. If you want big city conveniences we have that as well. If you want triple digit heat or single digits and snow we've got that covered. Cost of living varies widely but income opportunities are pretty much unlimited for the right professions. A good pickup will take you most anywhere you need to go and for the rest it you may need a boat, ATV, horse or a good pair of boots. I like my off-grid living in small doses, after a few days I'm ready to come back to civilization.
Good luck in following your dream, even if you don't like it at least you won't grow old regretting that you never tried.

starmac
01-02-2016, 02:03 PM
Bazoo, you can live anywhere on the Alaska mainland (on the road system) and still be within 8 hours of Anchorage, excluding maybe the far reaches of the Taylor highway, and ofcoarse the Dalton.
That said there are some like the Denali highway that is not maintained through the winter, so closed. The steese, while maintained, can and will blow closed and take a day or two for the dot to dig out several times a winter.
Another thing, is if living closer to fairbanks, there is really no actual need to ever go to Los Anchorage, but if you want to it is 6 hours out, about the same from Tok, less from most other locations, where folks actually live.

starmac
01-02-2016, 07:33 PM
Bazoo, another thing to consider while investigating places is outside of the boroughs, there is no property taxes, pretty much no building permits, basically you own it, it is yours to do as you wish, if it kills you it is YOUR fault. lol
Areas I would investigate are the central area on up the steese, but would stop short of circle itself.(just my opinion)
Delta junction area, and both down the Alaska highway to Tok and the richardson hwy down towards but stopping short of Valdez. I have to work, so it is best for me to stay closer to fairbanks, otherwise would probably be looking for something down the Rich, between Summit Lake and the Chitna area.
From the sounds of what you have in mind, stay north of Talkeetna on the parks,though I personally like Talkeetna and just 2 to 10 miles out of it in any direction would probably suit you fine. Glenn Allen area would be my limit out of anchorage on the Glenn highway, and the edgerton highway north of Valdez, even up the Taylor hwy as far as Chicken,

Bazoo
01-07-2016, 08:50 PM
Thanks for the direction starmac. And for all the advice you've given me.

Thank you everyone for the advice.

bearcove
01-07-2016, 09:02 PM
Just remember its just a place, you can get there in a pickup truck. You can work and get paid well enough to live there.

The rest is just a bonus

tygar
01-07-2016, 09:30 PM
I was just going to say that my favorite places were King Salmon & Yakutat. Both fly in places but the best hunting & fishing fun I ever had. After living in Ketchikan wife said no way.

Bazoo
01-07-2016, 09:57 PM
Just remember its just a place, you can get there in a pickup truck. You can work and get paid well enough to live there.

The rest is just a bonus

I know its just a place. And im sure i have somewhat of a romanticized idea of it, but i am realistic also. I know I cant run from any problems that are here. But I can get to a place where there are far fewer folks, and far more trees. And thats what I want.

starmac
01-07-2016, 10:26 PM
As far as far more trees, I don't know about that, Kentucky seems to have lots of trees.
Spme of Ak is heavily treed, some is zero trees ans then there is everywhere between. A lot of it is swampt and heavy permafrost that grows spindly black spruce.

You will just have to come up and do some traveling, it will have country you will love, country you will hate and everything in between.

bearcove
01-08-2016, 11:49 AM
Lots of wet ground with pipecleaners. LOL!

Bazoo
01-09-2016, 09:57 PM
My spot in ky is country, but not wilderness. I have a strong desire to see some of that.

Nose Dive
01-10-2016, 02:20 PM
Even with depressed oil and gas prices...there are still OIL & GAS jobs in Alaska. Got two calls a week ago. Not the 'best' pay, but work with benefits and paychecks. Go to RIGZONE, look there. You will see them.

Nose Dive

Cheap, Fast, Good.

starmac
01-10-2016, 03:39 PM
I am not sure what you are calling, not the best pay. There are always low paying jobs, or at least usually will be.
There is also always good paying jobs in the Alaska oilpatch, this will never change, just the amounts of them. Production jobs will always be here, service co jobs will always be here, just in a limited number, getting down to skeleton crews.
Comeplete camps have been shutterred, and this is just the beginning.
I have been playing in the woods, so haven't even ask for a load in a couple of months, also have not beeen hounded or even ask to take a load in a couple of months, which is not a good sign.
Talked to one trucking contractor that told me he has decided to not even bid on any work this winter, as the bids coming in are too cheap, him alone means 30 or so drivers will be looking elsewhere, and he is a little guy, but pays well. These are good paying jobs that are gone with the wind, so to speak.
Talked to another guy that has been with his company for 20 some odd years, he had bought a place outside in washington and was preparing to move out. The company told him he might want to reconsider, as there were more layoffs coming, and instate residents would have preference over those living outside.
Alaska only supports so many people, but has some major swings, but I suspect the job market (for good jobs) will be soft for several years.

bearcove
01-10-2016, 09:08 PM
If all the OKies go home all we need to do is work on the tourists!

starmac
01-11-2016, 02:30 AM
I am not too worried about it, my trucks are paid for and I intend to keep it that way.
The mine my son works for just keeps getting better, and is generally always hiring, even though they pay well and have about as good of benefit package as you can ask for, seems like folks just can't stand to work too long, so they are always shorthanded.
My sil is a cook, not big on pay but he can always work.
My other sil is a heavy mechanic, works for conoco phillips, they have already had some major cutbacks, and have ben told more layoffs are coming soon, but at least 2 other companies have called him and ask him to conside r them if he does get the axe.

Nose Dive
01-11-2016, 08:01 PM
starmac... Sir,,, you make my point for me....

"My sil is a cook, not big on pay but he can always work."

BAZOO did not mention his 'work'...trade... profession.... or even if he was in OIL AND GAS...in Alaska, USA, elsewhere.

My personal experience is, now, when companies are shopping for talent, in OIL AND GAS, in Alaska, USA, Canada, Turkey, Africa, 'elsewhere', the rates and conditions are less now than say, back when the price of oil was in the $180 per barrel range. Even less now than 2014. This i know, as I have 'seen first hand' from Alaska and other places, due to the 'availability of idled talent'.... the remuneration packages overall are DOWN. [a supply and demand issue] I believe the position of your contact you quote also supports this...

"Talked to one trucking contractor that told me he has decided to not even bid on any work this winter, as the bids coming in are too cheap," I believe this supports a more depressed oil and gas economy.

And as you say, there is still some work in Alaska. Suggest you PM BAZOO and offer him some insite or company locations and names to enhance his job search.

And I agree with you, the "BEST" pay descriptive I used above is subjective. But, as I also state above, if one has a job, with benefits, and that paycheck, compared to an unemployed hand in any line of work in Alaska, anywhere.... again, comparatively speaking, the employed person is benefiting from some of the BEST PAY one can enjoy. (in Alaska, China, Canada, etc...etc.)

Nose Dive

Cheap, Fast, Good. Kinldy pick two.

bearcove
01-11-2016, 08:48 PM
Yes he did, Carpenter

Wants to live remote, NOT chase money.

Nose Dive
01-11-2016, 10:04 PM
Bearcove.... sorry..."carpenter'... missed it...where is it in his original post to which I responded? (see below) There are alot of carpenters in OIL & GAS.... make good money...

Nose Dive

Cheap, Fast, Good. Kindly pick two.
Moving to Alaska
"I want to move to Alaska after my mom passes away. Hopefully it will be years from now.

Id like some advice, some inside, some help, from any of the members here that live up there, or have family or friends up there.

My idea for what type of life i'd like up there is, to live simple, in or around a small community. Small being maybe 50-300 people. Id like to buy a piece of land, and build a cabin. Or maybe buy one with a cabin already built. I want to live in a place that doesnt have tourists coming through all the time. Off the beaten path, but not completely isolated.

I am not sure what part of Alaska i want to move to. I am thinking the southern, or southeastern parts. Where the winters are shorter and they have more of a day and night. Although, I am not set on a specific area. Any suggests as to area, or communities to look into? r

I've been doing research on every aspect of moving up there and life up there. I think I would get along pretty good up there. Im pretty handy, i can fix things and make do, and figure out new ways to do things. I am self reliant, but I know when I need help. I like being left alone. I like helping others.

I've been learning things all my life, but have been learning specific things in regards to moving to Alaska. And i've been acquiring things that I know will be useful up there. What are things that I may not have thought of that i'll need to learn or acquire?

I am thinking, i'd like to have some cows up there, Not sure how many, maybe a dozen or 2. And chickens of course. What about pigs, do they fair well up there? Anyone got advice on this?

One thing, is that i'd like to make some friends up there before I go. I guess my idea is, if I could make friends with some folks that would let me stay with them a few weeks to look at land or send gear to them to keep until my arrival. Stuff like that. Anyone want to help me out?

This is pretty big for me, I havent ever done anything like this. So im not really sure how it all goes. But im set on going up there so im going to hash out all the details large and small the best I can.

Any advice, comments, direction, ideas, inspiration is greatly appreciated."

starmac
01-11-2016, 10:21 PM
He mentioned he was a carpenter in later posts, BUT he plans on having an income and isn't looking or wanting regular work up here, when and if he comes.
Lot's of places for a carpenter or any other trade to work up here and make good money besides the oil patch, infact many jobs outside the patch pays better, BUT when oil goes down, so does everything else, the economy of Alaska is wholly dependant on oil.

Nose Dive
01-11-2016, 11:50 PM
BAZOO... OK buddy...looks like you have received a lot of good starting points. I think a few 'scouting' trips up there, as suggested by others, is a good, very good idea. Also, the INTERNET IS A POWERFUL TOOL... "You can take a trip and never leave the farm!" Check it out on the net.....
I'm in OIL & GAS and move around a lot. 15 or so states, South America, Africa, Canada, Russia....and yes...North Slope. And I spent a lot of time on the net and the phone doing just what you are doing here...asking ''What gives where you are?"

You mentioned you have some time and this is good news! Go up there and look around for a summer or two. Find out where the work is and is not. We here in the oil patch are taking it on the chin right now. (and other places on our anatomy!) And if you believe what Mr. Dudley wrote about BP and what he sees for BP, he is the CEO, they are 'hunkering down' as he feels we will have low oil prices for the next three years. And, his predictions on OIL and the OIL business, to date, to me, have been 'dead on accurate'. He announced they are 'accelerating' their layoffs for 2016 and making all that happen in the first quarter. So, there it is. There will be some of your competition in carpentry for jobs in the oil patch and/or where ever those fellas can find work too. So you may see why now, waiting on your FID, (Oil Patch project lingo for 'Final Investment Decision') for a few years may indeed be wise. Kinda let things 'warm up' a bit. Only YOU can decide if this is right for YOU.

I know 4 project managers, 8 Superintendents and several more foremen who I met in Alaska. Only five are left working where I met them. So, I read this as Mr. Dudley's official "CHANGING OF THE GUARD". It is not only one company, it's the whole oil industry. As long as OPEC is pumping, oil prices will continue to go down....my guess is $20 per barrel and if this happens, as others have offered here, Alaska's economy will suffer...JUST LIKE HERE IN TEXAS! Now keep in mind, SUMMER is a big project and overhaul time in the North. Might very well stumble right into a jam up Summer carpentry job and come home with a few grand in your pocket. Who knows? I did just that while going to school.

OK,,enough of my 'crystal ball' forecasting... It is my 2 cents and worth every penny!

When you decide to go, and might consider some oil patch work, PM me on this site and I will connect you to the recruiters I know who send guys up their....if you want this.... In the 'old days'...they paid to get you up there and back home, good day rate of pay, housing and food while there. As mentioned...these are now somewhat 'soft' or non-existent. Even per diems are now soft...

Good Luck my friend. I will help if asked.

Nose Dive

Cheap, Fast, Good. Kindly pick two.

Bazoo
01-12-2016, 09:58 PM
Thanks for the replies everyone. I read it, but will reread it again later when in a better location. I dont have internet at my house, but I can leave any tabs open and read in peace there.

I am a finish carpenter. I make furniture, mouldings, cabinets, that sort of thing. I can do rough stuff like, framing, decks, picnic tables, But so can lots of others. Not as many can do fine carpentry. But there isnt as much call for finish work either.

I also can weld and do some metal work. I've never worked doing it, so im only at a hobby level, but If I did work doing it, my skill would improve pretty quickly.

Income is one of my biggest considerations. I am planning to save enough money to buy a piece of land outright, and with some monthly income from renting the farm, and doing some odd jobs, I think i'd be okay, but I dont know. Im still figuring it all out.

Nose Dive
01-14-2016, 10:10 PM
God Bless Son. Good Luck. Again...will help when needed.

Nose Dive

Cheap, Fast, Good. Kindly pick two.

Bazoo
01-15-2016, 09:18 PM
Thank you Nose Dive.

Bazoo
09-15-2016, 08:47 PM
Thanks again to all that have given advice, encouragement, and eye openings. Im still planning a move north. Not sure when still. I am still sorting out all the details.

starmac
09-21-2016, 10:39 PM
If the lord is willing, I will still be kicking around when you do decide to come up, so give me a shout. Carpenters is kind of like mechanics, there is always at least some work, anywhere you are likely to be.
One thing to remember is remote means different to different people. Most folks in the lower 48 would think they were liveing remote in all but a handfull of Alaskas biggest towns. Fairbanks is the second largest city, and 10 miles out would be considered remote by most folks.

Bazoo
09-21-2016, 11:36 PM
Im still working towards moving north. Im not sure if I will end up remote, 10 miles out of town, or what. Wife would rather live closer to town than me. I reckon we'll figure it out when its time.